new bike.. and the hayes disc brakes rub (well, the front does anyway). any ideas on how to get rid of it?
thanks
thanks
rubbing on haynes disc brakes?
- Thread starter MtnBikerNJ
- Start date
Well basically when I get disc rub, I just have someone squeeze the brake lever, then loosen and re-tighten the caliper screws. If that doesn't work, you could try to eyeball it, although that's a little less exact of a method 
Sounds like it's time to re-center.
remove wheel
remove pads
push pads back with a 10mm box end wrench
re-install pads
re-install wheel
loosen caliper mouting bolts
put a business card between the rotor and pads on each side
squeeze brakes till they set
tighten bolts
You should be golden.
remove wheel
remove pads
push pads back with a 10mm box end wrench
re-install pads
re-install wheel
loosen caliper mouting bolts
put a business card between the rotor and pads on each side
squeeze brakes till they set
tighten bolts
You should be golden.
Elvis' method sounds much more correct than mine BTW 
Do the business cards really do anything? I mean the next time you apply the brakes without the cards in there the pistons will just extend that much further until they clamp down and then be in the same position that they would have been without the cards in there.
or am I missing something?
or am I missing something?
I thought the business card trick sounded great and went to try it only to find out that it doesn't work on Hayes. Hayes are self adjusting meaning that once the business cards are removed, the pads will go in that much further before retracting the same amount.
It did work on some XTRs I bled though.
I found that the small reach adjustment screws on the Hayes lever offered plenty of adjustment for pad contact feel.
Other than that,... good explaination by mrB above.
Also, is the rubbing continuous or at one spot in the disc?(bent) I've had to straigten a few including my own from time to time.
It did work on some XTRs I bled though.
I found that the small reach adjustment screws on the Hayes lever offered plenty of adjustment for pad contact feel.
Other than that,... good explaination by mrB above.
Also, is the rubbing continuous or at one spot in the disc?(bent) I've had to straigten a few including my own from time to time.
If the disc is warped and reseating the caliper hasn't cured it, you will probably find a long downhill run will sort it out. The rotors have a neat self-straightening feature when cooked up.
And if it doesn't fix the rotor, well, at least you had a nice long downhill run
If they're genuine Haynes disk brakes, they should come with an 'Inspected by' number on the waistband. I'd call Haynes customer service and ask to speak with your Haynes inspector.
PS I never understood the bidness card thing, either. Can someone explain to me just what governs the relative motion of the pistons to one another, and how exactly they center themselves...? I use Hope, myself, but just switched to the open systems and can't always get them drag-free.
MD
PS I never understood the bidness card thing, either. Can someone explain to me just what governs the relative motion of the pistons to one another, and how exactly they center themselves...? I use Hope, myself, but just switched to the open systems and can't always get them drag-free.
MD
Pure Magic...
I've been told that the pistons are 'fooled' into thinking that the rotor is thicker than normal, thereby offering more lever travel. In practice, this has worked for me. I don't notice the pistons migrating towards the rotor afterwards.
Maybe it's the aliens...
The ceramic piston is very brittle and is easily cracked/chipped. Use a plastic tyre lever...(learnt from own experience)
nah its the industry-known "magic hayes brake rub" like a harpies screeching noise, I never get it when riding, just when pushing my DH bike to the top of the run..