[ZEDMAN]

today i was riding around on my hardtail and i looked down to find that my left saint crank arm was starting to come off. i figured..oh ill go tighten it down. when i let the pinch bolts off and went to tighten the plastic bolt "thingy-ma-bob" that threads into the spindle to pull the cranks together it fell out!!! part of it cracked off and was still in the spindle. has this happened to any one else? any ideas other than going and buying the same plastic part for a rediculous price and breaking it again? any ideas would be very helpful.

thanks

 

[seismic]

I have haerd that hope makes a similar tool in a better quality !!

 

[J5ive]

Nothing stopping you from using an XTR or durace cap which are both alloy. But you shouldnt need it. The Cap is only to load the bearings, like a headset. The pinch bolts hold the crank on. SO they must have been loose, or you dont have enough spacers under your bb cups to give the crank a stop to tighten against. The other problem may be that you have too many spacers and the crank isnt installing fully.

 

[ZEDMAN]

Nothing stopping you from using an XTR or durace cap which are both alloy. But you shouldnt need it. The Cap is only to load the bearings, like a headset. The pinch bolts hold the crank on. SO they must have been loose, or you dont have enough spacers under your bb cups to give the crank a stop to tighten against. The other problem may be that you have too many spacers and the crank isnt installing fully.

well i tried riding around without that cap on and pushing the crank on as far as possible and tightening the pinch bolts but the crank continued to slip off. also your idea about too many spacers was on my mind as well because only about 3 or 4 millimeters of the cap were threaded in. however i need to use those spacers for the time being until my new frame shows. thanks for the thoughts.

 

[ZEDMAN]

I have haerd that hope makes a similar tool in a better quality !!

hope? is it the tool or the cap that you are talking about?

 

[Incubus]

That cap isn't even there to preload the bearings. You're supposed to tighten it to 6in/lbs or something, which is not very tight at all.

Are you loosening the pinch bolts. Bringing the driveside and non-driveside closer together. Tightening again? And they're still coming loose?

 

[ZEDMAN]

That cap isn't even there to preload the bearings. You're supposed to tighten it to 6in/lbs or something, which is not very tight at all.

Are you loosening the pinch bolts. Bringing the driveside and non-driveside closer together. Tightening again? And they're still coming loose?

yeah without the cap thingy that preloads the bearing if i push the sides together to where there is no spindle seen and tighten down the pinch bolts the crank eventually begins to move out on the spindle. to my knowledge i "should" be able to run these cranks without the cap thing but they continue to move.

 

[Fonzie18]

TrI'm pretty sure you have too many spacers. They give you too many spacers so that you can use the Hollowtech2 system with diff size BB shells. You should be able to thread the preload cap a bit more than you are describing. And no way are you able to ride the crankset without the preload cap on . Try taking one spacer out, then pushing the non-drive side crank on as hard as you can, then threading the preload cap. Check out the instructions, they tell you how many spacers to put in according to the BB shell size.

 

[ZEDMAN]

TrI'm pretty sure you have too many spacers. They give you too many spacers so that you can use the Hollowtech2 system with diff size BB shells. You should be able to thread the preload cap a bit more than you are describing. And no way are you able to ride the crankset without the preload cap on . Try taking one spacer out, then pushing the non-drive side crank on as hard as you can, then threading the preload cap. Check out the instructions, they tell you how many spacers to put in according to the BB shell size.

well the problem with spacing is that i have an e-13...so i will have to look into that

 

[punkassean]

Do you have a micrometer/calipers? If you can measure the thickness of the e.13 plate then you should be able to compensate for that with the directions. I set up my Saint cranks on an MRP bones sys-2 and it worked absolutely flawlessly for about a year before I sold the entire bike.

Something is wrong, be it the set up or a product defect....

 

[IFL]

I had the same problem, it's because the crank isnt contacting the bottom bracket spindle enough. I tightening the pinch bolts super hard and it would still eventually come off. The mechanic put one too many spacers in between the frame and the bb cup. I took one out and that fixed the problem. But make sure you chainguide doesnt hit anything, as sometimes frames have to have so many spacers so particular chainguides wont rub

 

[Incubus]

The cranks come with 3 spacers.

Use 3 if you have a 68mm bb shell and you're not running a bb mount guide (2 on the drive side)
Use 2 if you have a 68mm bb shell and you are running a bb mount guide
Use 1 if you have a 73mm bb shell and you're not running a bb mount guide (mount the one ring on the drive side)
Use 0 if you have a 73mm bb shell and you are running a bb mount guide

Also, check out this page

 

[ZEDMAN]

The cranks come with 3 spacers.

Use 3 if you have a 68mm bb shell and you're not running a bb mount guide (2 on the drive side)
Use 2 if you have a 68mm bb shell and you are running a bb mount guide
Use 1 if you have a 73mm bb shell and you're not running a bb mount guide (mount the one ring on the drive side)
Use 0 if you have a 73mm bb shell and you are running a bb mount guide

Also, check out this page

thanks alot man. i have a 68mm bb and no iscg mount so i ran needed 2 spacers not the 3 i had, however i had to run them both on the driveside one btwn guide and frame and one btwn guide and bb. and the cracked cap worked with this setup. hope this solves my problem. and thanks to all for the help.