Yes, yes it is...lol funny thing is red looks fast when it's this tone...Red is faster either way!
Yes, yes it is...lol funny thing is red looks fast when it's this tone...Red is faster either way!
You will be riding for breast cancer awareness before long.Yes, yes it is...lol funny thing is red looks fast when it's this tone...
Uhhh, that "adjustments" on a heavily loaded area like the rear axle creak and move and generally suck balls?What did they learn? How to reduce the amount of parts and frame complexity - now they can sell the frame for the same price, while costing them less to make.
As much as adjustable geometry/headset cups and stuff seems cool, I'd reckon that 99.9% of riders never touch it. It's because people are easily adaptable for a degree of HTA or half inch of wheelbase, so they just never go to the trouble. I don't think it really serves any purpose, unless you are actively using different size wheels, like on my fatbike with two rear dropouts, I can run the biggest big tires or smaller ones and I adjust that one for those radical differences, but on any other bike I've had, I've just never touched this type of stuff when present.
The dropouts and adjustments on the back of my Banshee frames have never creaked ¯\_(ツ)_/¯Uhhh, that "adjustments" on a heavily loaded area like the rear axle creak and move and generally suck balls?
only ones i've ever had were the g3 adjustable dropouts on my old uzzi, which i really liked. but they were a different animal than today's flip chips.Uhhh, that "adjustments" on a heavily loaded area like the rear axle creak and move and generally suck balls?
those were boltsonly ones i've ever had were the g3 adjustable dropouts on my old uzzi, which i really liked. but they were a different animal than today's flip chips.
I stand by it, that 99.9% of riders (excluding Kidwoo) on it won't touch it. You could say that about virtually any top of the line bike.It is supposed to be a DH race bike and I would assume anyone who is competitive and technically apt would be very interested in such adjustments based on track conditions.
Like a fully adjusted suspension probably just more settings to get wrong for daft weekend wannabes.
In my cases they were definitely bike dependent. I've certainly had some with adjustments I never touched, some I would change quite a bit every time I rode my dh bike somewhere other than northstar because northstar is kind of unique.I stand by it, that 99.9% of riders (excluding Kidwoo) on it won't touch it. You could say that about virtually any top of the line bike.
Let me save you some time: Just leave the dropouts with most tyre clearance on. It's a fatbikeon my fatbike with two rear dropouts, I can run the biggest big tires or smaller ones and I adjust that one for those radical differences
Wheelies are easier with the wheel set in the forward position, plus the summer tires fit just fine there too. These wheels are both the same size, 27.5.Let me save you some time: Just leave the dropouts with most tyre clearance on. It's a fatbike
Don't know on Gambler, I am curious on V10 characteristics.Most of the frame adjustments I leave alone after initial setup. The flip chip for BB height / HA adjustment I swap for different types of riding. But if it weren't for the adjustments that I only touch once, I might be stuck with longer chainstays or a slacker head angle than I like on a frame that is otherwise perfect. These adjustments are partly to make a frame fit more riders' preferences.
Out of curiosity: I rode a Super 8, then 3 generations of V10, now the current Gambler. I think the Gambler is perfect. What does this new V10 do better? It certainly gets more hype than the Gambler.
No they're not.Wheelies are easier with the wheel set in the forward position,
Tried it both ways. Much easier to loft the front when the stays are shorter and that keeps energy levels higher to hold it longer.No they're not.
Holding wheelies at balance point is actually calmer with slightly longer chainstays. Getting to the balance point is always easiest from a slow start and using lower gearing. (which Fatbike always have). So long as you know that chainstay length doesn't really hinder anything.
Fatbike beach riding was massive around here for a while and although I personally find it the dullest riding possible I'm not shy to ask for a quick shot of others bikes. This has meant I've had shots of absolutely tons of the things over the years and wheelied every single one first go. From horrendous big moonlanders to small lightweight Alu/carbon fuckknoeswhats the one thing they've all shared is the massive window for error around the balance point they've given. Its litterally almost like cheating.
Thank you for that!those were bolts
fun fact: I'm the one that convinced intense to change dropouts to slacken bikes, notably the first gen uzzi I had
It could be two simple things:Out of curiosity: I rode a Super 8, then 3 generations of V10, now the current Gambler. I think the Gambler is perfect. What does this new V10 do better? It certainly gets more hype than the Gambler.
not with g3 dropouts there weren'tThank you for that!
But ... cough...cough... it was the first generation of the VPP Uzzi, there were the Horst Link Uzzi SL, SLX, XC... before.
The "first generation" Uzzi VPX did not have G3 adjustability, that first was introduced with the next generation Uzzi VP as the adjustability is in the frame and not the dropout.not with g3 dropouts there weren't
This is why I've always liked adjustments on frames, they allow getting the bike closer to the exact right fit for you / your preferences. Sometimes being locked into the other setting (or even the middle ground) would have been a deal breaker.Most of the frame adjustments I leave alone after initial setup. The flip chip for BB height / HA adjustment I swap for different types of riding. But if it weren't for the adjustments that I only touch once, I might be stuck with longer chainstays or a slacker head angle than I like on a frame that is otherwise perfect. These adjustments are partly to make a frame fit more riders' preferences.
Thanks, been wanting to run a V10This is why I've always liked adjustments on frames, they allow getting the bike closer to the exact right fit for you / your preferences. Sometimes being locked into the other setting (or even the middle ground) would have been a deal breaker.
Sweet rig @bullcrew !
Going full 29?
Mine didThe "first generation" Uzzi VPX did not have G3 adjustability,
I’ll be selling a gen 6 in large w/27.5 wheels, would that fit the bill?I've been trying to get a V-10 frame for 3-4 years
It was their standard replaceable droput system at the time so that you could switch between 135 mm and 150 mm hubs. M3, M6, Uzzi VPX, Slopestyle and Socom had it. Only for the M6 they released the special "M6 dropout" after folks had the rear tire hitting the seat tube. I guess the slacker dropouts that you convinced them to make and that they later made available in collab with Powell Precision got Jeff thinking of an adjustable version of it, the "G3", which they later used for the Uzzi VP and M9. At the same time the dropouts went to 142/150 mm and true through axles and could not be run with QR or 10 mm DT Swiss axles anymore.Mine did
Not the same as the g3 multiple bolt options but I got them to make different dropouts
I'm not going to play intense historian with you. I'm very familiar with what I did.
They were using bolt on dropouts to account for different hub sizes. I saw that as an easy way to slacken frames they were already making so got them to make them for the first gen uzzi I had.
The next dh frames had their g3 dropouts which did the same thing just with one machined piece
Are those Johnny5's?Wheelies are easier with the wheel set in the forward position, plus the summer tires fit just fine there too. These wheels are both the same size, 27.5.View attachment 205775