This is the shaft to repair and was not well, and the other is one that I q ride when I try to repair again, not at the moment.
Este es el eje que repare y no fue bien, y el otro es uno que tengo q montar cuando lo intente reparar otra vez, de momento no.
Este es el eje que repare y no fue bien, y el otro es uno que tengo q montar cuando lo intente reparar otra vez, de momento no.
Hi, I've finally managed cushion, perfect lock up and running. The problem was in the washer with 4 holes, but the plant, which makes the function of shutting oil was something embedded and not totally flat, not to the function of closing.
30 ml at the end use of SAE 5 oil, perfectly bleeding air from the small piston into the third chamber (which must inflate with needle-shaped jig with approximately 170 psi, when all mounted). In this 3rd camera there is a small screw Metric 3 mm (I think), take it out and pressing the plastic plunger, the remaining air out, when you leave a little oil, placed the little screw and nut with circular closed.
Hola, por fin he arreglado el amortiguador, bloqueo perfecto, funcionamiento perfecto. El problema estaba en la arandela con 4 orificios, mas el central, que hace la función de cerrar el paso de aceite, estaba algo embutida y al no estar totalmente plana, no hacia la función de cerrar.
Al final utilice 30ml de aceite de sae 5, purgando el aire perfectamente, desde el embolo pequeño hacia la tercera camara (la que hay que inflar con el utilaje en forma de aguja con 170 psi aproximadamente, cuando este todo montado). En esta 3ª camara hay un tornillito de Métrico 3 mm (creo),lo sacamos y presionando el émbolo de plástico, sale el aire restante, cuando salga un poco de aceite, se coloca el tornillito y se cierra la tuerca con forma circular.
30 ml at the end use of SAE 5 oil, perfectly bleeding air from the small piston into the third chamber (which must inflate with needle-shaped jig with approximately 170 psi, when all mounted). In this 3rd camera there is a small screw Metric 3 mm (I think), take it out and pressing the plastic plunger, the remaining air out, when you leave a little oil, placed the little screw and nut with circular closed.
Hola, por fin he arreglado el amortiguador, bloqueo perfecto, funcionamiento perfecto. El problema estaba en la arandela con 4 orificios, mas el central, que hace la función de cerrar el paso de aceite, estaba algo embutida y al no estar totalmente plana, no hacia la función de cerrar.
Al final utilice 30ml de aceite de sae 5, purgando el aire perfectamente, desde el embolo pequeño hacia la tercera camara (la que hay que inflar con el utilaje en forma de aguja con 170 psi aproximadamente, cuando este todo montado). En esta 3ª camara hay un tornillito de Métrico 3 mm (creo),lo sacamos y presionando el émbolo de plástico, sale el aire restante, cuando salga un poco de aceite, se coloca el tornillito y se cierra la tuerca con forma circular.
I leave here the link of a tutorial I'm doing to fix this buffer.
Dejo aqui el enlace de un tutorial que estoy haciendo para reparar este amortiguador.
http://www.foromtb.com/threads/reparación-y-mantenimiento-del-amortiguador-genius-tc-antes-2009.1205928/
Dejo aqui el enlace de un tutorial que estoy haciendo para reparar este amortiguador.
http://www.foromtb.com/threads/reparación-y-mantenimiento-del-amortiguador-genius-tc-antes-2009.1205928/
Edit: I did put the damper in water and it is slowly leaking air. I will send it back.
Hi,
this thread is quite old, but it is the only thread I could find of this damper.
I have the Genius TC 130 Damper and it was loosing air. I send it in and got it back repaired. They changed the stickers and in now says contessas 90 (MC 130 before) with different air pressures than before (I think). When I put in the recommended pressures (7.7 and 4) for my weight, the shock is not that far in than before. The bike "springs", but after a while, the spring gets hard, and there is almost no travel anymore. The pressure of the + chamber drops to 5.5.
Edit: I know used the pressures from the manual (mc pressures), the sag seems to be ok. But the damper is still loosing pressure. Seems to be slowly and over bumps.
The damper was also way shorter before
.
I did set up the remote control lever as described in the manual: https://s3.amazonaws.com/assets.scott-sports.com/manuals/08bike/2008_manual_s_genius_shock_gb_web.pdf
Does sombody know why my newly revised damper looses air? What pressures I should put in?
Because of the confinement I cannot go to a bike shop because they are all closed (that offer scott bikes).
Thank you
Hi,
this thread is quite old, but it is the only thread I could find of this damper.
I have the Genius TC 130 Damper and it was loosing air. I send it in and got it back repaired. They changed the stickers and in now says contessas 90 (MC 130 before) with different air pressures than before (I think). When I put in the recommended pressures (7.7 and 4) for my weight, the shock is not that far in than before. The bike "springs", but after a while, the spring gets hard, and there is almost no travel anymore. The pressure of the + chamber drops to 5.5.
Edit: I know used the pressures from the manual (mc pressures), the sag seems to be ok. But the damper is still loosing pressure. Seems to be slowly and over bumps.
The damper was also way shorter before
.I did set up the remote control lever as described in the manual: https://s3.amazonaws.com/assets.scott-sports.com/manuals/08bike/2008_manual_s_genius_shock_gb_web.pdf
Does sombody know why my newly revised damper looses air? What pressures I should put in?
Because of the confinement I cannot go to a bike shop because they are all closed (that offer scott bikes).
Thank you
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Edit, I tried putting rubber around the sleeve and fixing it in a vice. The big bolt won't budge and I am burning the rubber with the effort I put in it..
I am sure late on this thread but it is amazing. It really helped me out a lot.
I found that my shock was extremely hard to move and that my lockout is also not working.
I believe I found the reason for my shock being almost stock as both of the white rings are cracked. However, after following all the steps in the video I got stuck at separating the inner pin from the sleeve. As far as I understand, this is part of the lockout system so I need to open it. But until now I have failed as I don't want to scratch my sleeve. Any hints?
I am sure late on this thread but it is amazing. It really helped me out a lot.
I found that my shock was extremely hard to move and that my lockout is also not working.
I believe I found the reason for my shock being almost stock as both of the white rings are cracked. However, after following all the steps in the video I got stuck at separating the inner pin from the sleeve. As far as I understand, this is part of the lockout system so I need to open it. But until now I have failed as I don't want to scratch my sleeve. Any hints?
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Those white rings are not cracked, they are meant to be like that and reinforce the X-ring. They are referred to as anti-excursion rings or back-up rings. I am starting to re-furbish my tc shock but am learning as I go along.