Well after going to lighter tubes that somehow dropped two pounds of weight on a bathroom scale...i like the feel of light-er bikes..So aside from wheels what is the second best place to save weight? I love new topics and Stevie Wonder...
Second best place to save weight
- Thread starter .Pit Steelers.
- Start date
The rider....
I'm with XGrantX here. Money eccenomics may make another cheaper but higher weight saving option like cranks or rims better though.
Im gaining weight for football, not loseing it to make my bike lighter
Forks.
Items at the extremes of the bike will make the most difference (forks, wheels etc)
Money is a problem, Whould the switch from Diabolus to Atlas cranks make much of a diffrence.
well drilling holes in the frame has always worked for me....
my beer gutt
yes, that would make a pretty hefty difference.
Its funny how racers talk about shaving weight. How they pay $$$ for parts to lose GRAMS but then eat pizza, fast food, and drink beer/soda. Stop drinking soda, lose 10 pounds.
Its funny how no one said anything about how rider weight affects how the bike handles.
kanter is funny....
Parts are:
Cove playmate frame (05)
5th Element (steel coil)
Dbl Track rims (hella heavey, replacment 5.1d?)
DT Swiss 440 hubs
marZocchi 66rc
Diabolus cranks
SRS Guide
Maxxis Minnion tires
Diabolus Bars (31.8)
Diabolus Stem
CK Headset
Cheepy seat post and seat
XT drive train..
Cove playmate frame (05)
5th Element (steel coil)
Dbl Track rims (hella heavey, replacment 5.1d?)
DT Swiss 440 hubs
marZocchi 66rc
Diabolus cranks
SRS Guide
Maxxis Minnion tires
Diabolus Bars (31.8)
Diabolus Stem
CK Headset
Cheepy seat post and seat
XT drive train..
my new light wheels took 7 lbs out of the weight of my bike. sure, they are for XC riding so I won't be able to ride DH with them, but my once 41 lb bike is now only 34 lbs. wheels are the most noticeable too because they are rolling weight. for second place on weight savings, all unsprung weight, the shock in particular, is one of the most noticeable, but the others are right, lighter bars, stems, seats and posts will make a huge difference. bars and stems usually yield the most weight savings unless you are riding a DH seat, those things are just stupid. thomson stem and answer protaper bars or eastons will bring the weight down nicely. the bike will also get a lighter steering feel. be careful though, wheelies become a lot easier when the front of the bike is lightened up, my new front wheel is making it so i can't clear some of the steep climbs due to my front wheel hanging in the air.
the rim change would save loads of weight, so would the cranks.
get some xt's cheap and good... and dont just jump on the lightweight band wagon and go for the lightest. 5.1's are light but there is a trade off somewhere... getting a pair or 721's would be a good middle ground... still light but still very very strong.
get some xt's cheap and good... and dont just jump on the lightweight band wagon and go for the lightest. 5.1's are light but there is a trade off somewhere... getting a pair or 721's would be a good middle ground... still light but still very very strong.
The combination of changing rims to something lighter (721, MTX, Singletrack, etc), and switching to lighter handlebars and stem (Answer protaper and thompson x4 would be good choices respectively) would help ALOT. The parts you have on those places now are about as heavy as they get and needlessly so unless you are really heavy or really a hack. The next to change should be the crankset (to xt, or even hozfellers) and the seatpost and seat (to thompson post and any light and/or comfortable saddle). Those changes will probably make you bike feel completely different.
FSA gravity light stem and handlebars, I-beam seat and post. cranks the atlas would be less weight, shimano hone would be less $$
you didn't mention pedals, wellgo magnesium flats(mg-1) are the lightest for flats. 375g
if possible find a used ti spring in the right size, you might want to switch to a dhx or rocco too(for performance).
rims, don't go too light, stay in the 550g-650g range, 721(590g), mtx(640g), singletracks, or?
you didn't mention pedals, wellgo magnesium flats(mg-1) are the lightest for flats. 375g
if possible find a used ti spring in the right size, you might want to switch to a dhx or rocco too(for performance).
rims, don't go too light, stay in the 550g-650g range, 721(590g), mtx(640g), singletracks, or?
Yeah im planing on switching to a roco or dhx as for the pedals i have are Easton Flat Boys. Whould a new guide like a LG-1 save much weight over the srs?
no.
if you are trying to gain weight, the bike will only feel lighter and lighter, and your just going to beat it up. double tracks to someting like 721s would be noticeable. thomson post and slr seat or something like that. just look at a downhill race bike where weight is a big concern and you will get a good idea for part changes.
if you are trying to gain weight, the bike will only feel lighter and lighter, and your just going to beat it up. double tracks to someting like 721s would be noticeable. thomson post and slr seat or something like that. just look at a downhill race bike where weight is a big concern and you will get a good idea for part changes.
funny, a lot of the better racers i know do pay a lot of attention to their diet. (myself included, but i am not grouping myself with the better racers here).
weight? no. fitness? yes. stretching, yes. another point - if you are a fatty and you are on a sub-40 lbs bike, things are more likely to break.
to the original poster: best place for you to save weight is rims and cockpit. DT swiss rims are nice, but they tend to be on the soft side and dent more. I'd look at mavic, and possibly at a tubeless setup as well. for your cockpit - lighter bars, stem, saddle, seatpost (as said earlier). You don't really need a MTB saddle. I am running a BMX race saddle, and I know a lot of people on road bike saddles. I rarely sit when I'm on my DH bike, so comfort isn't really an issue (dunno if it is for you or not) - makes for an easy place to shave some weight.
Rotating mass carries the most noticable weight. Changing to lighter wheels, tubes, tires, cranks, pedals will yield a significant difference on a scale but an even greater difference on the trail when these parts are in motion.
It's all about E=mc2 baby... It's amazing what Einstein can tell us about riding a mountain bike faster!
It's also relative to how you ride and rider size. I agree with other riders' input that there should be a relative balance to weight and strength. Light parts + bigger rider + gnar terrain = bike parts fail (resulting in body parts failing too
).
It's all about E=mc2 baby... It's amazing what Einstein can tell us about riding a mountain bike faster!
It's also relative to how you ride and rider size. I agree with other riders' input that there should be a relative balance to weight and strength. Light parts + bigger rider + gnar terrain = bike parts fail (resulting in body parts failing too
).
After rotating weight (wheels/rotor/tyres/tube/tubeless) I'd say the next most important thing is unsprung weight. This obviously includes all the rotational stuff, but also some other bits like rear mech, brake calipers, cassette etc. Hubs as well - not very significant in rotational weight because they're right at the centre of the wheel, but can count for quite a lot in unsprung weight. The weight saving of a ti spring counts as unsprung weight too!
Skip the knee pads, MX helmet, camelbak and chest protector.
That should be a few pounds.
That should be a few pounds.
i'm going to say NO to the first one. some guy at the duryea race this weekend did quite a number on his knee and has to have fairly extensive reconstructive surgery. he wasn't wearing knee pads.
chhh... I got two Arrow FRX rims that were gonna go on my hardtail. Decided to go pre-bulit. So whould getting these Arrows laced to my 440's be that good of an idea. Can they hold a Minnion 2.5?
In all seriousness I've not ridden my top half yet this year, and feel like I'm riding a lot better without it - I don't know if that is in my head though. I've not ditched it to save weight, more to gain "freeness". Riding without a spine protector/chest protection makes me a little nervous though, I know both appear to have come to my rescue before.... might chops the arms off of my dainese and wear it like that.
You know you want the trade off. 100grams lighter each wheel.. Hmmmm
irate2: hahaha
I would hope that sarcasm would be easily noticed.
It's all about E=mc2 baby... It's amazing what Einstein can tell us about riding a mountain bike faster!
