Quantcast

seized BB

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
So i have a truvativ giga-something BB on my 223. The drive side cup is MUCHO seized int here. Tried a pipe wrench on the shimano tool with an 18" pipe ion the handle and still no movement...got non drive cup off, filled shell with wd40...still seized. Upon removing non drive cup, the axle now spins smoothly (this is why i was removing it, it did not before).

As soon as i try and reinstall the non drive cup, it seizes up again...I am guessing the axle is bent on the BB? This is a non ti isis axle, i thought they were supposed to be a bitch to bend?

Anyways, any tips or tricks for getting this little focker outta there? :dead:
 

binary visions

The voice of reason
Jun 13, 2002
22,202
1,390
NC
Put the bike on its side and fill the BB shell with liquid wrench or something similar. Let it sit overnight. Then try.
 

ChrisKring

Turbo Monkey
Jan 30, 2002
2,399
6
Grand Haven, MI
I had a bottom bracket get seized up due to paint in the threads. I soaked it in WD40, put the Truvative tool into my impact gun and still couldn't get it out. I tried to get the spindle and bearings out so I could cut the cup with a hack saw blade but the spindle wouldn't budge.

Luckly, the was about 1/4" of the cup sticking out. I put a 18" pipe wrench with a 2 foot pipe on it and slowly got it out. I thought I was buying a new front triangle, however everything was fine.

Lesson learned, don't forget to grease the threads.
 

cali4niabiker

Monkey
Jun 29, 2004
296
0
ATLANTA, GA
Transcend said:
So i have a truvativ giga-something BB on my 223. The drive side cup is MUCHO seized int here. Tried a pipe wrench on the shimano tool with an 18" pipe ion the handle and still no movement...got non drive cup off, filled shell with wd40...still seized. Upon removing non drive cup, the axle now spins smoothly (this is why i was removing it, it did not before).

As soon as i try and reinstall the non drive cup, it seizes up again...I am guessing the axle is bent on the BB? This is a non ti isis axle, i thought they were supposed to be a bitch to bend?

Anyways, any tips or tricks for getting this little focker outta there? :dead:
I've dealt with seized bolts while fixing cars and the toys (ATV's, Boats, etc), and its a pain in the a$$ to remove some of the time. The best way to do it is to squirt in a bunch of WD40 and let it sit overnight like what the other monkeys suggested. Come back later and try to loosen it.

If you can't get that little sucker loose, you could try to tighten it a little (not much tho), then loosen it slowly. Sometimes that does the trick as it loosens the dirt and grime.

DO NOT USE A TORCH! Aluminum is a soft metal and will melt easily (Tm ~ 800 - 900 oF), resulting a loss in its integrity!! Its like sticking a bar of chocolate in an 350 deg. oven.

If all else fails, go to a local hardware store and buy a steel u-bolt. Drill two holes on the BB cup and insert the steel u-bolt. Be sure to bolt it from the opposite side. Use large pliers and unscrew it clockwise (btw, BB cups unscrew the opposite direction than normal bolts).

HOpe these ideas help. Let us know how it goes.

-CAbiker
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
The U bolt idea was intriguing, but the whole BB is stuck in there, so no way to bolt it. I have the liquid wrench in as we speak so we shall see how that works.

As for torch..no way.
 

Zaskar Rider

Monkey
May 29, 2002
242
0
PNW
Not to demean you in any way but are you sure you're turning that cup the correct direction to get it off?

Oh and you might wanna try something larger than an 18" cheater. Sometimes certain bike companies like to put their bb's in so tight we have to use 3 foot cheater bars to get them out at my shop. Takes 2 people and one of those industrial park work stands bolted to the floor but it works. The liquid wrench isn't a bad idea either.
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
Zaskar Rider said:
Not to demean you in any way but are you sure you're turning that cup the correct direction to get it off?

Oh and you might wanna try something larger than an 18" cheater. Sometimes certain bike companies like to put their bb's in so tight we have to use 3 foot cheater bars to get them out at my shop. Takes 2 people and one of those industrial park work stands bolted to the floor but it works. The liquid wrench isn't a bad idea either.
Yes, I'm sure I'm turning the proper direction. :confused:

The BB was installed by me, with a boatload of grease. Not sure why it's seized, I blame the almost constant mud this season at races. I woulda used a longer pipe, we just didnt have one handy. Also the tool i have to use (shimano tool on a huge wescott) is a little gimpy.

:help:
 

Matt D

Monkey
Mar 19, 2002
996
0
charlottesville, va
You need the park tool cheater bar. I checked the site and couldn't find it, but it's about 4 foot long and adjustable. Or a big ass pipe will work.

I've never had one I couldn't get out with that Park tool, but I would try soaking it it antifreeze if the liquid wrench doesn't work (we use antifreeze for seized seatposts). I'm not totally sure, but I think WD-40 is merely a rust inhibitor, not a penetrator so I don't think it would be the best choice.

Good luck!
 

binary visions

The voice of reason
Jun 13, 2002
22,202
1,390
NC
Matt D said:
I'm not totally sure, but I think WD-40 is merely a rust inhibitor, not a penetrator so I don't think it would be the best choice.
Actually, WD-40 is a good solvent and penetrator (heh. heh heh.), but definitly doesn't work as well as something like liquid wrench. I've never used anti-freeze.. that's interesting.
 

bizutch

Delicate CUSTOM flower
Dec 11, 2001
15,929
24
Over your shoulder whispering
Think pressure sealed mason jar! You know how you can whack a pressure sealed jar a bunch of times on the bottom and it loosens the seal.

Take the BB tool, insert it by itself with no pry bar or with a socket wrench you could care less about....and take a metal hammer and start tapping on it like it's a chisel. Just tap on it for about 3-5 minutes like you're driving in a small nail. . Don't hammer. You aren't trying to turn the threads...just "break the seal". The vibration should accomplish exactly what you want. Don't go caveman. Basicly think of it as doing what happens to your rotor bolts when you're riding down the trail. Vibration will back out any bolt with time!

Once you';ve tapped on it for a while, you should be able to back it out normally. Let me know.
 

cali4niabiker

Monkey
Jun 29, 2004
296
0
ATLANTA, GA
Matt D said:
You need the park tool cheater bar. I checked the site and couldn't find it, but it's about 4 foot long and adjustable. Or a big ass pipe will work.

I've never had one I couldn't get out with that Park tool, but I would try soaking it it antifreeze if the liquid wrench doesn't work (we use antifreeze for seized seatposts). I'm not totally sure, but I think WD-40 is merely a rust inhibitor, not a penetrator so I don't think it would be the best choice.

Good luck!
Antifreeze can dissolve the paint enamel... I know so because of the material used (polyacrylate derivatives) in paints and enamel are slightly soluble in antifreeze (its actually ethylene glycol + additives). If you plan to soak it, be sure to immediately wash it several times with soapy water.
 

zedro

Turbo Monkey
Sep 14, 2001
4,144
1
at the end of the longest line
Transcend said:
Also the tool i have to use (shimano tool on a huge wescott) is a little gimpy.

:help:
if your tool has flats for a wrench, insert a bolt (or qr) through the tool and BB, sandwiching it all together so the tool cant slip out. Wrench it off by taping the wrench with a metal hammer. The metal to metal contact will give a nice and swift impact with some good vibrations....

this method works well because it doesnt want to rotate the frame as when your simply pushing down on the wrench.