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Servicing an XT Rear Mech...

mellow_sparky

Monkey
Aug 21, 2009
133
0
Washington State
So it seems that my rapid-fire shift levers are requiring more force than they probably should to change gears (especially when pushing the lower lever to shift "up" to a lower gear).

I don't really know where to begin. Does this usually indicate the need to replace the cable (because gunk has gotten in the cable housing) or is it simply that the levers need to be lubed?

Any thoughts on the best way to approach this?

Thanks
 

moff_quigley

Why don't you have a seat over there?
Jan 27, 2005
4,402
2
Poseurville
New cables and housing. Clean up the derailleur real good and shoot all the pivots with some Tri-Flow (or similar). Regrease the jockey pulleys. If that doesn't work you might take a look at the shifter. Messing with the shifter is more complicated so try the other stuff first.
 

mellow_sparky

Monkey
Aug 21, 2009
133
0
Washington State
Thanks for the info - two questions:
- do you put any grease on the large return spring on the bottom of the mech?
- is a cable change reasonably straight forward for someone who is mechanically minded (I used to do cable changes back in the days of the old thumb shifters - but i've not done it on a newer bike yet).
 

oldfart

Turbo Monkey
Jul 5, 2001
1,206
24
North Van
Agreed. 99% of the time it is simply an old gunked up cable and housing. That stuff should be replaced fairly frequently. Not much you want to do to a Shimano shifter. They are complex and not easily put back together. But remove the cable and put in a nerw one with new housing and see. If it is still stiff, you could hit it with a bunch of degreaser, wd40, blow it out as best as you can, let it dry and then triflow it.
 

moff_quigley

Why don't you have a seat over there?
Jan 27, 2005
4,402
2
Poseurville
Thanks for the info - two questions:
- do you put any grease on the large return spring on the bottom of the mech?
Don't know that it is necessary, but I guess it wouldn't hurt.

- is a cable change reasonably straight forward for someone who is mechanically minded (I used to do cable changes back in the days of the old thumb shifters - but i've not done it on a newer bike yet).
Pretty simple, IMO. It's easier to change the cable on the Shimano units I've owned compared to the SRAMs I've had. But both are fairly straight forward.
 

zebrahum

Monkey
Jun 22, 2005
401
0
SL,UT
I would skip greasing the spring unless it has a problem. It's more likely to attract dust if it's lubricated and then it'll get messy. I have to disagree with oldfart when he says use WD-40, it's not a lubricant, it's a degreaser. White Lightning epic works much better for that, but it shouldn't be needed at all.

Cut your housing the same length as the old one and put the new pieces on. Then put in the new cable and you'll be amazed you didn't do this sooner.
 

oldfart

Turbo Monkey
Jul 5, 2001
1,206
24
North Van
I would skip greasing the spring unless it has a problem. It's more likely to attract dust if it's lubricated and then it'll get messy. I have to disagree with oldfart when he says use WD-40, it's not a lubricant, it's a degreaser. White Lightning epic works much better for that, but it shouldn't be needed at all.

QUOTE]

I know it's really a solvent that's why you would use it to disolve old cacked up lube in the shifter. Read my post again. I suggested using wd40 or degreaser to clean the shifter. Then blow it out with compressed air or your lungs, let it dry and then follow up with Tri flow.
 

mellow_sparky

Monkey
Aug 21, 2009
133
0
Washington State
Thanks for all the info here folks - I'm guessing the cables are 99% of my problem, so I'm going to start with that. Replacing them looks pretty simple, so I'll pick up a set of XTR cables on ebay and give it a go. Thanks!
 

zebrahum

Monkey
Jun 22, 2005
401
0
SL,UT
I know it's really a solvent that's why you would use it to disolve old cacked up lube in the shifter. Read my post again. I suggested using wd40 or degreaser to clean the shifter. Then blow it out with compressed air or your lungs, let it dry and then follow up with Tri flow.
My fault, I was reading too fast. Though I've had good luck using just aerosol Tri Flow in shifters. I only use a solvent if the shift ratchets are stuck down and don't respond to the tri flow (like in the old bolt-on pod LX). Unless you're going to be diligent, I think it's best to keep degreasers that leave a film out of mechanicals.
 

oldfart

Turbo Monkey
Jul 5, 2001
1,206
24
North Van
Yeah you're probably right. I did jam a 105 rear shifter about 12 inches into a farm mud during a cross race 10 years ago. I had to spray it with WD40 every day for a week before it worked right. That was more to do with flushing out particulates that de gumming and it worked eventually.