How do you think the sherman flick would work for street and djing or should i go with a marz dirt jumper?
sherman flick for street and DJ??
- Thread starter Northshore009
- Start date
The flick is a great fork for street riding and dirt jumping. The only problem is that at 130mm it has a lot of travel and will really slack out your head angle. Some people like this, others do not. Even with the RT2 adjust you shouldn't ride it hard in the 90mm setting. The manitou tech guys are pretty adimant about this. I'e had great experiences with th efork, as have friends of mine. I am now on the Sherman DJ fork @80mm of travel. By far the nicest fork I have ever ridden. If you can try to get one. I'm not sure what availability is going to be like however.
Personally, I'd get a DJ and reduce the travel. Sure it doesn't have a thru-axle setup, but the DJ line is alot cheaper. I hate 130mm travel for street (makes it loop out easily), it really messes up my riding, so I prefer 80-100mm. Also, both forks are bricks when it comes to weight, so if you're a light guy, it may not be for you.
what happens at the 90 mm setting that it doesnt work?
What is the crown to axel height of the Sherman DJ?
i would definetly go for ther sherman, ive had a firefly on my bike for a while now and i can say that this is the best single crown fork for the price(got it for 370 used off of ebay) i have ever ridden, it dosnt chopper out the geometry to bad, since the axle isnt at the very bottom. I think for 2004 they fixed the travel adjuster thing to wear u could actually ride it hard in the 90 mm setting(i could be wrong though), ive felt and ridden alot of dirt jumpers and none of them have compared to the sherman, and if u turn up the compression all the way it ramps up alot quicker. If only i could have gotten the dirt jumper version(very freakin cool). Ive never seen a pic of a broken sherman, but quite a few of dj's(might be that there are just mor dj's out there). But the strenght to wieght ratio between the 2 is just not justifible on marzocchis part. I might be a little naziest towards marzocchi becasue ive had 3 of there forks snap on me(no im not pro so i do case every now and then, but the sherman has held up alot better then the zocchis), i even had a marzocchi arch snap and cut my wrist open. ths is just my opinion, i still think the new dirt jumpers are good forks but i just think that the sherman edges it out in almost every category.
http://www.pinkbike.com/modules/photo/?op=view&image=164863
http://www.pinkbike.com/modules/photo/?op=view&image=164863
if interested, i can tell how to reduce your sherman, reversibly.
it is literally a 30 minute procedure.
it is literally a 30 minute procedure.
simple take the rebound shaft to you local hardware store and find a piece of pipe that will fit over it snugly. make it as long as you want to have your travel reduced.
then, when reassembling the fork, put the pipe on the rebound shaft, then the top-out softener thing (that black plastic end cap with the spring), then the semi bath sponge assembly.
you can reverse the process by just removing the pipe. it adds about 3 minutes of work to an oil change
that should make sense... if you need any other assistance, post 'here, and if i come back to this thread i'll help you.
the ONLY issues surrounding this business:
1) preload. i am not sure how much that plastic end cap can handle. this is your judjement. if you want a sure shot, you can buy a stiff spring and then cut it down by the exact amount you reduced the travel by. that way you know the preload is tried and true for the system. (and you have a fork with enough resistance for street riding at short travel)
2) damping oil level. Obviously the textbook leves are out the window. i have no idea that the conversion would be. your best bet is to go by volumes. just find out what the correct CCs of oil is by measuring how much you have in there now. pour the exact same amount back in.
then, when reassembling the fork, put the pipe on the rebound shaft, then the top-out softener thing (that black plastic end cap with the spring), then the semi bath sponge assembly.
you can reverse the process by just removing the pipe. it adds about 3 minutes of work to an oil change
that should make sense... if you need any other assistance, post 'here, and if i come back to this thread i'll help you.
the ONLY issues surrounding this business:
1) preload. i am not sure how much that plastic end cap can handle. this is your judjement. if you want a sure shot, you can buy a stiff spring and then cut it down by the exact amount you reduced the travel by. that way you know the preload is tried and true for the system. (and you have a fork with enough resistance for street riding at short travel)
2) damping oil level. Obviously the textbook leves are out the window. i have no idea that the conversion would be. your best bet is to go by volumes. just find out what the correct CCs of oil is by measuring how much you have in there now. pour the exact same amount back in.
i have a picture somewhere of the process... gimme aminute to find it.
here i whippped up a new one.
i lost the other pic.
ABout the preload thing... you could reduce the fork by the exact amount that the quick reduce thing does (~1in) and i bet that would be OK. after all, this is doing exactly what the adjuster does, only it wont break.
i lost the other pic.
ABout the preload thing... you could reduce the fork by the exact amount that the quick reduce thing does (~1in) and i bet that would be OK. after all, this is doing exactly what the adjuster does, only it wont break.
Attachments
ok, so it's reduced travel without reduced fork height then?
no!
the fork height is reduced!!
let me draw a better picture.
the fork height is reduced!!
let me draw a better picture.
this shows the spring side of the whole fork...
i left out the sponge ccrap...
on the left is normal,,,, right is reduced
i left out the sponge ccrap...
on the left is normal,,,, right is reduced
Attachments
does it increase the spring rate as well. ie make the fork act as if its preloded?
nice work.
nice work.
yes, it increaces the preload.
if you reduce your fork by, say an inch, the preload would be equal to the resistance at an inch of normal compression.
again, i am not sure if this is more or less than an extra-stiff spring at normal extension. if it is more, i'd be slightly worried about breaking the black plastic rebound bumper.
like i said before, you can totally avoid all concern if you buy asn extra stiff spring and cut it down by the exact amount that you reduce your travel by. that way you know that the preload is tried and true.
if you reduce your fork by, say an inch, the preload would be equal to the resistance at an inch of normal compression.
again, i am not sure if this is more or less than an extra-stiff spring at normal extension. if it is more, i'd be slightly worried about breaking the black plastic rebound bumper.
like i said before, you can totally avoid all concern if you buy asn extra stiff spring and cut it down by the exact amount that you reduce your travel by. that way you know that the preload is tried and true.