[dG video]

So I just received my Sherman Slider + a couple days ago and upon installation I found a problem. I am running this fork on a 2003 Large V10. The headtube and headset stack-height measures out to 7" exactly. The fork does have the drop crown also, so anyways, I installed the fork and all looked well except the front end of my bike seemed to be extremely low (below my waist). I also measured the length of stantion showing between the lowers and the middle crown/steerer and only 7" and a couple mm is showing, this worries me because if I bottom out it seems like the crown will hit. So I was wondering if anyone know of any after-market drop crowns I can buy or any other solutions.

Thanks, Dan

 

[FlipSide]

Unscrew the left top cap and compress the fork. That way, you'll know for sure if the crown hits or not...

 

[MikeD]

That fork is a very short fork compared to a lot of other 7" forks. Combined with the 40-or-so degree HA on your frame, I'm not shocked you have a very low front end.

Do as Flipside says to check the tire clearance, then enjoy riding your lowrider. I like a low front, personally...

MD

 

[WheelieMan]

7 inches of exposed stanchion doesnt seem like enough. My 03 6 inch slider had i think 7.5 inches of exposed stanchion right out of the box. If I were you I would be concerned that the reverse arch may contact the downtube.

 

[dG video]

Damn...
If only they made there tall crowns actually tall!!!!!!!!!

Dan

 

[dG video]

Ok so I moved everything to the very end and tightened up the headset and just made sure everything was completely snug. I now have 7 inches and 1 1/2cm showing, is that enough?

Dan

 

[punkassean]

Manitou has a suggested height for that fork and I think you are below it. Either download the manual from Answer's website or do as FlipSide suggests. That is the only way to know for sure. I seem to remember you need around 8" of exposed stanchion on that fork. What headset do you have? Some are much shorter than others.

 

[MikeD]

OK, one more time, since you're not getting the advice that's been given you...

Measuring your exposed stanchion is not the way to tell if the tire will hit your crown. (unless, say, you've got an obvious less-than-7" showing, in which case something is definitely screwed...)

What you need to do is compress the fork completely, and check for 2-3mm minimum clearance between the lower crown and the tire under this max. compression. You can't compress the fork like this unless you remove the left top cap (in the case of your fork). This will allow the fork to compress to its max travel without rebounding, allowing you to check the clearance.

MD

 

[dG video]

Im running a King. Should I have a crown made or get a different fork?

Dan

 

[dG video]

So when I take the left cap off am I going to see a spring? Should I take that out?

Dan

 

[MikeD]

No, your headset has nothing to do with this. Your headset won't affect the amount of exposed stanchion or fork travel. A taller headset might raise your front end some, if that's an issue, but right now you need to find out if there's something wrong with your fork, or if the axle-crown height is simply too short for your liking. (which I suspect it is...)

If the fork is working OK (ie, you have the travel and tire clearance you need), then the only way to make it longer is to get a new fork. Having new crowns made would probably cost waaaay too much to be an option, IMHO.

MD

 

[MikeD]

So when I take the left cap off am I going to see a spring? Should I take that out?

Dan

You'll see the spring; no need to remove it. Without the top cap, it'll just poke up out of the top as you compress the fork.

 

[dG video]

I just tried to get the top cap off with an adjustable wrench and I got to a point where when I tried to loosen it I would take the wrench off and it would spin back into place, is that normal? Sorry, I have never worked on a fork before.

Dan

 

[MikeD]

I just tried to get the top cap off with an adjustable wrench and I got to a point where when I tried to loosen it I would take the wrench off and it would spin back into place, is that normal? Sorry, I have never worked on a fork before.

Dan

The first rule of fork club...don't talk about fork club. The second rule, however, is to click HERE before picking up a wrench.

I think you just need to tug upwards on your cap a little once you've loosened it to the point where it's free of the threads. But always, always get the service manual if it's available (as Manitou's are) before you crack anything open.

MD

Edit: Looking at the manual, it looks like you need to undo the screw at the bottom of the leg if you're going to remove the spring. Shouldn't be neccessary to just take off the top cap, though.

 

[punkassean]

On your fork, you need to first unbolt the lower leg from the inner spring-assembly. Flip the bike upside down and remove the bolt from the bottom of the spring side, then remove the top cap and it shouldn't twist back. When you put it all back together, do not over-tighten any hardware the lowers are very soft metal and will strip.

 

[MikeD]

On your fork, you need to first unbolt the lower leg from the inner spring-assembly. Flip the bike upside down and remove the bolt from the bottom of the spring side, then remove the top cap and it shouldn't twist back. When you put it all back together, do not over-tighten any hardware the lowers are very soft metal and will strip.

yeah, the punkass is right...only times I've removed the spring, the fork was already disassembled. Sorry for any mis-info...now that you have the manual, you can read it instead of asking online bozos for info, right?

MD

Edit: PS, watch out for any oil coming out of the bottom of the left leg when you take the bolt out. There's lubricating oil in there...just motor oil, so if any escapes, your fork will still work just fine. Still, you want the proper amount (16ccs, I think, but check the manual) in each leg at all times, and it should be changed, depending on riding and conditions, every 2-3 mos. or so, or just when the fork feels sticky or you have a spare 20min in the garage.

 

[punkassean]

Mike, did you see the number Answer recommends as the minimum exposed stanchion whilst perusing thine manual? granted that number may be stretched on certain bikes but just to give him something to go by...

 

[MikeD]

Mike, did you see the number Answer recommends as the minimum exposed stanchion whilst perusing thine manual? granted that number may be stretched on certain bikes but just to give him something to go by...

All it says to use is "fork travel + 20mm" when setting the distance to the lower crown.

MD

 

[dG video]

Anybody got a 888?

 

[MikeD]

Sheesh, 888 owners want lowrider crowns, slider riders want high-rider crowns...and Rocky just learned the expensive lesson that geometry is the most-overlooked and most-important frame/fork character of all...

MD

 

[punkassean]

All it says to use is "fork travel + 20mm" when setting the distance to the lower crown.

MD

Werd, so 190mm or 7.5" of exposed stanchion to be safe for sure on this fork.

Rocky, can you squeeze that much out of the fork? If not how much exactly can you get?

 

[dG video]

Thanks for all the help guys. I dont think it is going to be possible to run the fork, I measured the distance between the middle crown and my tire and its a measly 6" and I dont want to take any chances and tommorow I am going to actually do the whole bottom out test to be positive. Any recommendations on other forks?

Dan

 

[MikeD]

Ok, forgive me for being so dense...didn't actually see the problem beforehand, I think.

Your real problem seems to be that the fork, when mounted on your headtube/headset combo without any spaces, simply doesn't leave enough exposed stanchion for the fork to function? That IS a problem, dearie me...yeah, sounds like you need another fork.

Personally, I like the Shiver, myself...

MD

 

[dG video]

Ok, forgive me for being so dense...didn't actually see the problem beforehand, I think.

Your real problem seems to be that the fork, when mounted on your headtube/headset combo without any spaces, simply doesn't leave enough exposed stanchion for the fork to function? That IS a problem, dearie me...yeah, sounds like you need another fork.

Personally, I like the Shiver, myself...

MD

Thats exactly my problem. When I have it set up all I can squeeze out is 7" and like 5mm. This is a bummer. I would go for a shiver but Im worried about the fork being flexy, I am a big kid and not exactly Steve Peat smooth.

Dan

 

[punkassean]

If you can get another 10-15mm out of it somehow it will work. That's why I asked about the headset you run. If you can get something that has less stack-height it might get you there. Also I think it would be okay to run the legs a few mm's below the very top of the crown. With the Sherman drop-crown I know you need at least one small spacer on most if not all headsets to keep the crown from hitting the headset itself. Try to find a headset that is a small diameter and then run only the largest spacer needed to clear the crown.

otherwise, yer screwed.

Shivers aren't so flexy that you should be worried. The new black ones are tasty.