[canadmos]

Anyone use an XT 12 speed chain? Any good?

I currently have what I think is a deore chain (not sure, a buddy gave it to me) and it must have absolutely zero corrosion protection. The outer links are now all brown with surface rust. I've done a few crazy heavy rain rides lately, but have always dried and lubed the chain after. Not impressed, even for a cheapo chain.

 

[SylentK]

For Shimano drive train, XT or XTR. I try to not go below XT on anything Shimano drivetrain.

The only time I've dealt with corrosion is when I washed the bike and didn't dry and lube the chain. Or driving home in a gnarly rain storm, hitch mounted rack. Even then, it was pretty minimal and it went away after cleaning and lubing. I haven't ridden in the rain in years. At least proper rain. Ducking under some trees to let the afternoon thundershower blow by doesn't really count in my book.

Lube may be a factor. I know some local racer bros only do wax. Not sure about that. Sounds like a lot of work.

Point being... maybe a "wet weather" (winter?) chain lube is better for you if you ride in the wet a lot? And at least an XT chain. It's an "investment" not an "expense"

 

[Jm_]

The higher end shimano chains are nickle plated and decent.

The higher end (x01 and xx1) sram chains are even better, tested independently.

 

[djjohnr]

I'm running 12 speed XT across 3 bikes, one for the past year - no issues to report.

 

[canadmos]

For Shimano drive train, XT or XTR. I try to not go below XT on anything Shimano drivetrain.

The only time I've dealt with corrosion is when I washed the bike and didn't dry and lube the chain. Or driving home in a gnarly rain storm, hitch mounted rack. Even then, it was pretty minimal and it went away after cleaning and lubing. I haven't ridden in the rain in years. At least proper rain. Ducking under some trees to let the afternoon thundershower blow by doesn't really count in my book.

Lube may be a factor. I know some local racer bros only do wax. Not sure about that. Sounds like a lot of work.

Point being... maybe a "wet weather" (winter?) chain lube is better for you if you ride in the wet a lot? And at least an XT chain. It's an "investment" not an "expense"

Good point about the lube. I've been using this stuff only for this year, just seems crazy how much the chain rusted on the outside of the outer links.

Don't normally ride in the rain or at least not very often, but these were beast of rain storms. Tornado warnings were out for two of them.

The higher end shimano chains are nickle plated and decent.

The higher end (x01 and xx1) sram chains are even better, tested independently.

I found both x01 and xx1 for sale and will probably get one of those. Though damn, the xx1 is $125 here.

 

[Bikael Molton]

I'm running SLX and XT chains and am content to use either, depending on availability.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Locals swear by KMC.

 

[Bikael Molton]

Do the non-Shimano 12s chains work correctly with the Shimano downshift-under-load ramps? Isn't the ID on Shimano 12 narrower than other 12s chains?

 

[Westy]

Do the non-Shimano 12s chains work correctly with the Shimano downshift-under-load ramps? Isn't the ID on Shimano 12 narrower than other 12s chains?

I think I have tried every possible combo of Shimano/sram 12 speed stuff and the only thing that doesn't work well is a SRAM chain on a Shimano chainring.

 

[SuboptimusPrime]

Do the non-Shimano 12s chains work correctly with the Shimano downshift-under-load ramps? Isn't the ID on Shimano 12 narrower than other 12s chains?

My experience is that shimano 12 speed chains worked better than other brands specifically for the shifting under load--the difference was noticeable. KMC and others worked OK otherwise.

 

[englertracing]

The higher end shimano chains are nickle plated and decent.

The higher end (x01 and xx1) sram chains are even better, tested independently.

I thought the results of the sram chain tests were extreme durability but also a slow chain

 

[canadmos]

I think I have tried every possible combo of Shimano/sram 12 speed stuff and the only thing that doesn't work well is a SRAM chain on a Shimano chainring.

Whats it do? I currently have a Race Face steel chain ring, which they say is Shimano compatible.

 

[Electric_City]

KMC and WD40

 

[Jm_]

I thought the results of the sram chain tests were extreme durability but also a slow chain

What, are you running the TDF?

 

[englertracing]

What, are you running the TDF?

Ha no but generally I try and use lowest friction components avaliable.... ntn llbs for wheel bearings and freehubs, lowest friction options for bb. Chain lube from the fast side of the friction facts test. I was waxing chains... what a pain in the ass.... I read about the chain test done by friction facts. Where it stated the sram eagle chains wore like iron but were slow.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

So goes the department of third order effects.

 

[Westy]

Whats it do? I currently have a Race Face steel chain ring, which they say is Shimano compatible.

Sorry, I had that backwards. When I switched over my drivetrain the Shimano chain didn't like the SRAM chainring.

 

[iRider]

Ha no but generally I try and use lowest friction components avaliable.... ntn llbs for wheel bearings and freehubs, lowest friction options for bb. Chain lube from the fast side of the friction facts test. I was waxing chains... what a pain in the ass.... I read about the chain test done by friction facts. Where it stated the sram eagle chains wore like iron but were slow.

I don't know if I would be worrying about this 1W difference: https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-best-bicycle-chain-durability-and-efficiency-tested/

Unless you stop and clean your chain mid ride 10 times and go back to a 2x setup. Because 1x systems are really inefficient to a larger degree than chains alone.

 

[sethimus]

drive train efficiency? that’s what the motor is for, duh.

 

[iRider]

drive train efficiency? that’s what the motor is for, duh.

I think @englertracing is neither old, fat or handicapped enough to need an e-mopped.

 

[canadmos]

This is that cheap shimano chain, for what it's worth. This happened after a deluge of rain, but I lubed and dried it the best I could...the type of ride where your shoes are wet 4 days later...

Really need to order that sram chain. Or just stick with this artisanal steampunkt one??

 

[6thElement]

Stay steampunk until it's worn out.

 

[Westy]

This is that cheap shimano chain, for what it's worth. This happened after a deluge of rain, but I lubed and dried it the best I could...the type of ride where your shoes are wet 4 days later...

Really need to order that sram chain. Or just stick with this artisanal steampunkt one??

Good chance the actual important moving bits are caked in lube and are just fine. MTB chains are constantly sucking in filth anyway. What lube are you using? A more oil based one may be better for your environment.

 

[HardtailHack]

Just replace your upper guide with a couple of toothbrush heads.

 

[rideit]

And replace your lube with sensodyne.

 

[englertracing]

Was you lube made of acid?

 

[HardtailHack]

Was you lube made of acid?

Salt and pineapple.

 

[Flo33]

This is that cheap shimano chain, for what it's worth. This happened after a deluge of rain, but I lubed and dried it the best I could...the type of ride where your shoes are wet 4 days later...

Really need to order that sram chain. Or just stick with this artisanal steampunkt one??

First thing I would do is buy a proper rear tire so your chain isn't annoyed of looking at this abomination of a tire all the time and gets aggressive and finally self destructive as a result.

 

[Gary]

That rust is 100% user error and chain lube choice rain noob

 

[johnbryanpeters]

This is that cheap shimano chain, for what it's worth. This happened after a deluge of rain, but I lubed and dried it the best I could...the type of ride where your shoes are wet 4 days later...

Really need to order that sram chain. Or just stick with this artisanal steampunkt one??

Keep it lubricated and run it until chain gauge says it wants replacement.

 

[Gary]

Fuck that.
Just keep your drivetrain cleaned and properly lubed and run the same chainring, cassette and chain from new to destruction..
That exact procedure gets me 5000+ miles on an Emtb in an actual wet climate.
0.5% wear is where 12 speed chains are recommended to be replaced and with some chains that's as little as 400 miles.

 

[canadmos]

Good chance the actual important moving bits are caked in lube and are just fine. MTB chains are constantly sucking in filth anyway. What lube are you using? A more oil based one may be better for your environment.

Yeah the chain seems fine, it just looks like absolute ass.

I've been using this lube this year, thought I'd try it out. Again normally it's super dry and dusty here. Just had a few freak storms on Wednesdays, which is our friends group ride night so we go rain or shine. Maybe I lubed the chain and then just wiped too much of it off? Magnets? It was also insanely hot and humid the next few days after and it sat there festering.

C3 Dry Weather Ceramic Lube

C3 Dry Ceramic Chain Lube provides total protection and unbeatable drive chain performance!

us.muc-off.com

 

[canadmos]

First thing I would do is buy a proper rear tire so your chain isn't annoyed of looking at this abomination of a tire all the time and gets aggressive and finally self destructive as a result.

No man, have you seen the price of tires here?

I'll run this thing until it's dead.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Yeah the chain seems fine, it just looks like absolute ass.

I've been using this lube this year, thought I'd try it out. Again normally it's super dry and dusty here. Just had a few freak storms on Wednesdays, which is our friends group ride night so we go rain or shine. Maybe I lubed the chain and then just wiped too much of it off? Magnets? It was also insanely hot and humid the next few days after and it sat there festering.

C3 Dry Weather Ceramic Lube

C3 Dry Ceramic Chain Lube provides total protection and unbeatable drive chain performance!

us.muc-off.com

Somehow, "ceramic particles" sound like an abrasive rather than a lubricant.

 

[Gary]

Fancy DRY lube for wet riding?

FFS!

 

[Gary]

C3 Dry Weather Ceramic Lube

C3 Dry Ceramic Chain Lube provides total protection and unbeatable drive chain performance!

us.muc-off.com

You'd be far better using a cheap no BS wet lube that's fairly thin in consistency and not too sticky, eg. Muc Off Wet.
Preferrably applied to a (fairly) clean chain/drivetrain but still wiping off excess lube after application
Avoid any Peaty's chain lube products IME they attract a shit load of gunk to your jockey wheels in no time.

 

[Jm_]

Yeah the chain seems fine, it just looks like absolute ass.

I've been using this lube this year, thought I'd try it out. Again normally it's super dry and dusty here. Just had a few freak storms on Wednesdays, which is our friends group ride night so we go rain or shine. Maybe I lubed the chain and then just wiped too much of it off? Magnets? It was also insanely hot and humid the next few days after and it sat there festering.

C3 Dry Weather Ceramic Lube

C3 Dry Ceramic Chain Lube provides total protection and unbeatable drive chain performance!

us.muc-off.com

 

[Jm_]

In-between stuff is frustrating, like it's dry and sandy, but you have to go through a few streams or it's that one day where there's actually moisture in the desert. That sand gets in and it just GRINDS into a nasty paste. The dry lubes...all of them, they just wash off with the first real water contact IME. They are great in a dry environment (which is here in the winter), but in a wet environment, you need wet lube. The muckier it is, the goopier you need the lube. On my nastiest rides, I'll bring a little sample-size bottle of motor oil and I'll put some drops on halfway into the ride. This improves shifting and everything significantly. On the nastiest rides, even the wet stuff will need replenishment if you want your drivetrain to work well, but in most cases in the wet you don't have to go to such extremes usually. Back to the in-between, Dumonde Tech is a "Polymer-based" lubricant, I like the light version, others like the heavy version, but I find this is a decent "in between" dry and wet lubes. But when it's really wet, nothing is as good as a wet lube. That's literally what they are for. I'm not sure there's really any difference between motor oil and "mountain bike chain oil", but I digress. I'm pretty conservative with my dry lube use, I need pretty good assurance that I'm going to be able to stay "dry" on the ride...otherwise it just washes off fast.

 

[canadmos]

Fancy DRY lube for wet riding?

FFS!

Did you forget to put on your spectacles and read where I said it's usually dry here?

I've ridden in the rain 3 times in the last 9 months.

The trails here are sandy so wet lube just does not work, unless you want to be literally grinding your gears. Yeah yeah I know, it works for you and you get 500000miles out of your stuff, but it's not the same here.

 

[StiHacka]

That chain looks like a piece of trash. SRAM FTW.