Shimano clutch service
- Thread starter canadmos
- Start date
I swapped the clutch on a Shimano 10 speed rear because the old one had failed. Super easy, nothing to it. No idea about 11 or 12 speed versions though.
I went this route.
Had to disassemble the clutch in my Shimano derailleur when I had to replace the cage. The torsion spring on the cage was a PITA but the clutch was pretty straight forward if you take a picture of what it looks like before you take it apart.
One beer job on my xt 11s. Worked a lot better afterwards
Yes. "before" photo is key.
I installed mine so the switch only worked in reverse once back when the 42t cog upgrade was all the rage.
I fixed it eventually...
Oh btw, use good grease. I used something like slick honey the first time and it didn’t work, then my red Mobil 1 grease and it worked better and solved the problem
funny thats my procedure for sram.
bel ray waterproof grease is my favorite for this,
i have more preferred waterproof grease that contains moly, and genuinely shit talk the bel ray for its lack of moly... buttttt i still use it for ceartain things like overpacking things to seal them, or the clutch were the moly can be to slipery.
At least you can service/adjust the shimano clutch. Pretty sure the clutch died on my X01 derailleur that came on my GG I bought in February. SRAM fix is buy a new derailleur.
When servicing there is a correct tension setting on the clutch. Best done with a beam style torque wrench.
Would it be different for different length cages? I guess almost everyone has a long cage these days.
My Saint hasn't needed adjusting at all but the Zee before it only went a few months before it needed adjustment.
Would be the same since you are measuring from the center. Shimano friction adjustment
Park Tool has a good video on it.
I set my friction by hand-right-o-meter.
Its less than factory.
The amount you need is the amount that stops your chain from falling off without a chain guide up front when you quickly pick the back wheel up and slam it repeatedly.
Anything more wears out the pivots in the parallelogram faster than needed
Its less than factory.
The amount you need is the amount that stops your chain from falling off without a chain guide up front when you quickly pick the back wheel up and slam it repeatedly.
Anything more wears out the pivots in the parallelogram faster than needed
I start off a little on the loose side and cinch it up until I can't feel the chain bouncing against my ankle.
It is NIST traceable