Anyone got a link to a good, step-by-step (maybe with pics) on how to rebuild (seals & wipers) a Shiver DC? Thanks.
Shiver DC Rebuild?
- Thread starter oddblob
- Start date
I can't provide you with a video, but I will check the marz service CD at work to see if it has any info beyond the normal PDF's you can download.
I know for sure the legs are easy to dissassemble. The only thing holding the fork together is the cartridge rod attaching to the top caps. I know this because when I last changed my oil I pushed my axle down so far that the legs fell out and dumped my oil everywhere. It was great.
I know for sure the legs are easy to dissassemble. The only thing holding the fork together is the cartridge rod attaching to the top caps. I know this because when I last changed my oil I pushed my axle down so far that the legs fell out and dumped my oil everywhere. It was great.
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/shiver_01.pdf
It's dead easy and doesn't require any special tools. The manual is for an 01 but they are identical throughout the years.
It's dead easy and doesn't require any special tools. The manual is for an 01 but they are identical throughout the years.
I figured from what people have said and the fact that the enduro seal kit only includes about 4 parts that it couldn't be that hard, so I took a look at the 2001 manual and gave it a try. Well, if you can put a few pieces back in the order you took them out, you can do this. My only concern is that it seems like a lot more oil came out than what I put back in. I cycled the cartridge like the manual said, but it didn't take much oil to reach the 80mm-from-the-top mark. I'll take my oil with me on the next ride in case i have to add more... 
i was able to do it myself so that says a lot. its super easy
First ride tonight on new seals. Stantions have a very thin bit of oil on them - just enough that it leaves a very light film on your finger if you run it down the stantion, and there's an ever-so-slight oil ring where the suspension reaches its deepest point. Its nothing like the dirty ring of oil I was seeing before the rebuild, and I can't see any spots where there's a streak of oil - i.e. its consistent all the way around. Putting in the seals/wipers seemed very simple and the fork parts were in good shape. So, is this little bit of oil normal? Will it subside as the new seals/wipers bed in?
Emailed Scott at Enduro and got a prompt reply: Small oil residue initially is normal - needs some ride time for seals to bed in properly. If it persists or get worse, then there's a problem.
Just to note when adding oil to Marzocchi cartridge forks - you need to cycle the cartridges a couple dozen plus times to purge the air pockets. You will hear and feel the change when they are solid w/ fluid. My first build I cycled the cartridges only 10 times or so and the fork bottomed to easy, re-checked the level and it was around 30mm too low.
i dont have a shiver..but damn that is a thorough guide..
Both legs are done and working great, here's the condensed version of what to do (use your brain in case I f'd anything up when writing this).
1. Buy your seals & wipers from Enduro. Great people to deal with, good product.
2. Get their Shiver manual: http://www.enduroforkseals.com/siteb.../shiver_01.pdf
3. Follow the instructions, with an eye to a few things:
4. Loosen the top caps on each leg slightly BEFORE undoing the crown bolts - otherwise its real hard to keep the legs from turning when you try to break those bolts loose. Don't loosen them very much, or risk dumping oil on yourself during the leg removal.
5. Prepare yourself for oil. Rags, paper towels, whatever - you'll need plenty.
6. When you empty the oil out, put it all in a glass jar. When done, mark the jar so you'll know exactly how much oil to put back in. It may not be exact due to small amounts lost to cleanup, etc, but its a good starting point.
7. When you put the seals in, be smarter than I was. For the Enduro seals the lettering will face out of the end of the slider, and the deep groove will face up into the slider towards the oil. Enduro's instructions are written for m-arch Marzocchi's in general, but the Shiver is upside down, so I put the seals upside down on the first try. They are really hard to remove without damaging them, so get it right the first time!
8. Cycle your fork a lot to get air out of the cartridge and loosen the top caps or bleed screw to let any air out, then take your tools and oil with you on the first ride. If it is bottoming out too much, take slider top caps off and add a capfull of oil to each leg. A little goes a long way, so maybe only add a half-a-capfull to each leg if it was barely bottoming out.
9. The instructions say to remove the cartridges (loosen bolt at bottom of leg, etc) but unless you are replacing the cartridge (they last forever) or your oil is so bad you have to flush the cartridge (shame on you) I don't think its necessary. Think of it like an automatic transmission - draining the oil doesn't get it all, but if you change the oil at intelligent intervals you'll be fine.
10. If your fork seeps a little oil around the preload/rebound adjusters, replace the little O-ring. You can get them at anyplace that deals in such items - hardware store, hydraulic fitting shop, etc.
11. Ride baby, ride. And snicker at your friends shelling out $1000+ on new 888's.
12. If I left out any important info or you have a good tip on doing the job better, PM me - I'm putting together a reference document for others who have never rebuilt a Shiver.
1. Buy your seals & wipers from Enduro. Great people to deal with, good product.
2. Get their Shiver manual: http://www.enduroforkseals.com/siteb.../shiver_01.pdf
3. Follow the instructions, with an eye to a few things:
4. Loosen the top caps on each leg slightly BEFORE undoing the crown bolts - otherwise its real hard to keep the legs from turning when you try to break those bolts loose. Don't loosen them very much, or risk dumping oil on yourself during the leg removal.
5. Prepare yourself for oil. Rags, paper towels, whatever - you'll need plenty.
6. When you empty the oil out, put it all in a glass jar. When done, mark the jar so you'll know exactly how much oil to put back in. It may not be exact due to small amounts lost to cleanup, etc, but its a good starting point.
7. When you put the seals in, be smarter than I was. For the Enduro seals the lettering will face out of the end of the slider, and the deep groove will face up into the slider towards the oil. Enduro's instructions are written for m-arch Marzocchi's in general, but the Shiver is upside down, so I put the seals upside down on the first try. They are really hard to remove without damaging them, so get it right the first time!
8. Cycle your fork a lot to get air out of the cartridge and loosen the top caps or bleed screw to let any air out, then take your tools and oil with you on the first ride. If it is bottoming out too much, take slider top caps off and add a capfull of oil to each leg. A little goes a long way, so maybe only add a half-a-capfull to each leg if it was barely bottoming out.
9. The instructions say to remove the cartridges (loosen bolt at bottom of leg, etc) but unless you are replacing the cartridge (they last forever) or your oil is so bad you have to flush the cartridge (shame on you) I don't think its necessary. Think of it like an automatic transmission - draining the oil doesn't get it all, but if you change the oil at intelligent intervals you'll be fine.
10. If your fork seeps a little oil around the preload/rebound adjusters, replace the little O-ring. You can get them at anyplace that deals in such items - hardware store, hydraulic fitting shop, etc.
11. Ride baby, ride. And snicker at your friends shelling out $1000+ on new 888's.
12. If I left out any important info or you have a good tip on doing the job better, PM me - I'm putting together a reference document for others who have never rebuilt a Shiver.