[Dog Welder]

So I got the standard 7.5 Golden spectro with the heavy springs to suit my weight (215#)...but the fork doesn't feel as smooth as I want it to over the small stuff. I remember people talking about drilling out the compression side of a JrT a while back but never heard of anything for the shiver. If I went to a lighter oil....would my heavy springs be heavy enough to prevent the fork from bottoming out to harshly? Oh I dont do drops or jumps if that helps...I just seeking better small bump compliance.

 

[DHRracer]

what do you weigh.when i had my shiver what helped the most was raising oil level.

 

[Discostu]

what do you weigh.when i had my shiver what helped the most was raising oil level.

It says he weighs 215. Does the shiver have seperate compression and rebound cartridges? If so, perhaps you could put lighter oil in the compression side and heavier in the rebound? However, it seems to me like you shouldn't need to go any lighter than 7.5 wt, especially at 215 lbs. The only thing besides oil weight that should change small bump sensitivity at the top of the stroke are springs. Maybe you could try one heavy, one medium?

I'm a little confused because it seems this should be the perfect setup for your weight, maybe you have way too much oil?

 

[ohio]

So I got the standard 7.5 Golden spectro with the heavy springs to suit my weight (215#)...but the fork doesn't feel as smooth as I want it to over the small stuff. I remember people talking about drilling out the compression side of a JrT a while back but never heard of anything for the shiver. If I went to a lighter oil....would my heavy springs be heavy enough to prevent the fork from bottoming out to harshly? Oh I dont do drops or jumps if that helps...I just seeking better small bump compliance.

Every shiver I've ever felt was super smooth and sensitive on little stuff. And small bump sensitivity has almost nothing to do with damper/oil setup unless you're on a platform-valved damper... so I'd say it's got to be something else. I'd rebuild the fork, flush it with some really light oil (5wt or less), check the bushings, and maybe lay a thick wad of slick honey into the seals (not sure about that part). It should feel much better.

 

[BMXman]

Yeah Paul I think you should go one heavy and one med spring...and add some oil...that's what I did to mine and it worked great...D

 

[Spunger]

I weigh a good 240 with gear and what not. I have the oil height in both my shivers raised just a tad and in the DH fork the normal springs, in my single crown the super heavy springs and it works great. I'd just add some oil first, then go from there.

 

[vitox]

Every shiver I've ever felt was super smooth and sensitive on little stuff. And small bump sensitivity has almost nothing to do with damper/oil setup unless you're on a platform-valved damper... so I'd say it's got to be something else. I'd rebuild the fork, flush it with some really light oil (5wt or less), check the bushings, and maybe lay a thick wad of slick honey into the seals (not sure about that part). It should feel much better.

not so sure about the grease being useful on an inverted fork, but you could definitely undo the springs and test the fork for bushing drag, even better you could test both legs independently to see if the problem is with the structure or the damper.

 

[jmvar]

have you tried purging the air out of the fork? Unscrew the little screws a the top of the fork and cycle the fork...

 

[buildyourown]

I run the stock springs and 10wt oil. I'm only 175# though. If you never do drops, you should be able to get away with lighter springs.
I would try running the stock springs and see if that helps.

 

[neversummersnow]

Back your preload all the way off as well...this seems to reduce stiction for whatever reason.

Remember, oil weight has something to do with bottoming but that is mostly resolved in your oil heights. Oil weights dictate the rate at which your travel is used.

 

[Brian Peterson]

Paul,
Make sure the fork isn't binding.... With your weight, your set up should be fine. Loosen the axle clamp bolts, compress the fork several times. Retighten clamp bolts and make sure you have a 2-3mm gap between the hub and drop out on the right leg.

Brian

 

[CBJ]

have you tried purging the air out of the fork? Unscrew the little screws a the top of the fork and cycle the fork...

Yes, that is good advice and should be done to any Shiver on a regular basis i.e. at least every month is my experience.

 

[zedro]

Does the shiver have seperate compression and rebound cartridges?

no it doesnt, 2 rebound carts

I'd rebuild the fork, flush it with some really light oil (5wt or less), check the bushings, and maybe lay a thick wad of slick honey into the seals (not sure about that part).

always a good idea, exept for the slick honey, doesnt need it and avoiding thick lubricants will keep the seals cleaner.

have you tried purging the air out of the fork? Unscrew the little screws a the top of the fork and cycle the fork...

a usual suspect

Make sure the fork isn't binding.... With your weight, your set up should be fine. Loosen the axle clamp bolts, compress the fork several times. Retighten clamp bolts and make sure you have a 2-3mm gap between the hub and drop out on the right leg.

that gap doesnt seem to be necessary on all forks/hubs. Mine takes a zero gap.

Back your preload all the way off as well...this seems to reduce stiction for whatever reason.

doesnt reduce stiction (thats the seals and bushings)

 

[JRogers]

The suggestions here are good ones. Get the air out, rebuild and swap one spring. I am about 180 or so and run it with 2 medium springs. Seems great for me, only bottoms on drops above 4-5' with the oil level right. The fork is very sensitive to small bumps and whenever it does not feel that way, it just needed an oil change or an air burp.

 

[Dog Welder]

Thanks for the tips everyone...will give all a try....Oh yeah I burp my fork regularly so that's not the issue.

 

[James | Go-Ride]

READ BRIAN'S POST. I have seen so, so, so many Shivers that have the legs pinched together. Almost everybody I've ever met who has a Shiver and says it feels crappy has the legs pinched together. Make sure your legs are not pinched together. I know that on most MTB thru-axle forks, the hub is supposed to butt up against both of the dropouts. On the Shiver, it only butts up against the disc side. The other side of the hub sits against the STEP IN THE AXLE, not the drive-side dropout of the fork. There should be, as Brian said, a 3 - 4 mm "gap" between the hub and the dropout. If there is not, then the fork legs are bowed together, causing lots of extra friction and wear to your legs, bushings, and seals, as well as making the fork feel like some sort of RST from 1998 that Scott owned and thought was awesome called the XXL.

 

[James | Go-Ride]

ZEDRO READ MY POST I just read yours. Unless you have a hub with a 24mm pocket at the end of it that is 3 mm deep there should be a tiny bit of shiny silver axle showing between the hub and the dropout.

 

[zedro]

ZEDRO READ MY POST I just read yours. Unless you have a hub with a 24mm pocket at the end of it that is 3 mm deep there should be a tiny bit of shiny silver axle showing between the hub and the dropout.

dont worry, i checked this like 3 years ago, my setup doesnt require a space for whatever reason, and i've been crowned as having the smoothest Shiver on this planet

 

[ioscope]

Yeah, my shiver is like buttah. Right now it is oversprung but It still compresses while I am walking it up the trail. I mean, even with no weight on it whatsoever, it is super compliant!