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Shiver stanchion

DukeNukem3d

Monkey
Oct 4, 2004
138
0
Hi,

I was wondering if a shiver lower is detachable. I mean the red part in the picture from the actual stanchion. Pictures are clickable.
(I have kitted it to make sure it doesn't leak)

Thanks.


 

SuPaFlY

Chimp
Jan 7, 2005
43
0
Toronto
If you mean the drop out from the stanchion, then yes, but you have to completely dissasemble that leg to accomplish it. to make sure it never comes loose again, (ive had this happen to my old shiver too) use the axle and a rubber tie up and some red loctite and you're good to go.
 

DukeNukem3d

Monkey
Oct 4, 2004
138
0
SuPaFlY said:
If you mean the drop out from the stanchion, then yes, but you have to completely dissasemble that leg to accomplish it. to make sure it never comes loose again, (ive had this happen to my old shiver too) use the axle and a rubber tie up and some red loctite and you're good to go.
Great! Thanks a lot!

I have a leg like this now:


So what do I do now?

And how do you mean mounting it with a tie up?

(Sorry, I am dutch)
 

mack

Turbo Monkey
Feb 26, 2003
3,675
0
Colorado
The reason it is leaking is because it is loose. I found this out this summer. Grab the stanchion with a strap wrench, or if you got strong hands put on some rubber gloves for grip. Then twist the red foot off. It is a normall right hand thread. Once it is off clean it out and make sure there isnt any dirt in there. Then put some loc tite on the threads and get it back on as tight as possible. You should check it every once in a while becuase they are hard to get back to factory spec torque levels.

I think by tie up he means a strap wrench, somthing like this.

 

SuPaFlY

Chimp
Jan 7, 2005
43
0
Toronto
Thank you Mack! Thats exactly what I was talking about. You can buy new stanchions but why waste a few hundred dollars on a stanchion that can be fixed. trust me, its easily fixable dood.
 

DukeNukem3d

Monkey
Oct 4, 2004
138
0
Thanks all! Sound pretty clear to me for one thing:

Why cant I remove the red dropout without totally stripping the fork?
I cant see why not.
 

Rik

Turbo Monkey
Nov 6, 2001
1,086
1
Sydney, Australia
You'll want to clean everything very thoroughly before applying a threadlock, so a complete pulldown would be in order to do that. Since you're doing some work on the fork, you might as well give it a comprehensive clean and some new oil as well.
 

DukeNukem3d

Monkey
Oct 4, 2004
138
0
Rik said:
You'll want to clean everything very thoroughly before applying a threadlock, so a complete pulldown would be in order to do that. Since you're doing some work on the fork, you might as well give it a comprehensive clean and some new oil as well.
I have already tried to get it loose and even with the tool people mentioned above, its not working. I havent taken the Shiver apart yet so thats why I am asking if it has to be stripped to get the foot loose.

Ofcourse I will check the oil and seals when I have it loose but I first want to make sure that it can come loose.

I think I'll try to put it in my workbench.

Thanks all!
 

DukeNukem3d

Monkey
Oct 4, 2004
138
0
English forums tell me it isnt detachable. Has somebody got any kind of technical drawing or proof they are detachable? Because they are really tight...

Thanks.
 

vitox

Turbo Monkey
Sep 23, 2001
2,939
1
Santiago du Chili
if you cant get it off by any reasonable means you can do two things

1 only when you will be scrapping the old stanchion, this will impair your future extracurricular use of the stanchion to some degree. with a hammer, flatten the mid section of the tube drastically, then put the stanchion in a vise, and the axle in the dropout and maybe a tube around the axle, this should give you the leverage in all cases.

2 if you want to reuse the stanchion you will have to heat the leg assy to a point where the threadlocker used inside, burns and becomes pretty easy to unthread.
use a propane burner (i use one with camping gaz, its made for melting wax on skis maybe you can find it that way) but you have to be careful not to get the metal so hot it changes its mechanical properties, normally you should smell the adhesive burning way before the metal gets that how however and thats your stop signal.
 

buildyourown

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2004
4,837
0
South Seattle
vitox said:
use a propane burner (i use one with camping gaz, its made for melting wax on skis maybe you can find it that way) but you have to be careful not to get the metal so hot it changes its mechanical properties, normally you should smell the adhesive burning way before the metal gets that how however and thats your stop signal.

A propane torch would be dangerous. You could easily get the aluminum hot enough to ruin the heat treatment.
Loc-tite and most other thread lockers will release at quite low temperatures. A cheap paint stripper will be plenty hot enough.

If your having a hard time holding the stantion with the strap wrench, try a wood block. Take a large chunk of wood and drill a hole in it the same diameter as the stantion. Then cut the block in half along the centerline of the hole. Place block in vice. This should prevent damage to the stantion and allow you to reef down on the vice.

Good Luck
 

DukeNukem3d

Monkey
Oct 4, 2004
138
0
Thanks for thinking with me here, it would really be cool if this works out...

Some people told me it was cryofitted, what is that and how do I solve that? If someone has some technical drawing where I can see it comes loose please let me know. I mailed Marzocchi about this too but never heard a thing.
 

buildyourown

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2004
4,837
0
South Seattle
Cryofit is a method of assembling an interference fit. An interference fit is any fit in which the peg is bigger than the hole. Cryofit involves getting the peg very cold and the hole somewhat warm. It really doesn't take much temperature differential to make this work. However, once it's together, you can't really get them apart. Most newer fork crowns are assembled this way.

Are you sure the foot is threaded into the leg? I have no idea, but it would be good to make sure before you ruin something.
 

vitox

Turbo Monkey
Sep 23, 2001
2,939
1
Santiago du Chili
buildyourown said:
Cryofit is a method of assembling an interference fit. An interference fit is any fit in which the peg is bigger than the hole. Cryofit involves getting the peg very cold and the hole somewhat warm. It really doesn't take much temperature differential to make this work. However, once it's together, you can't really get them apart. Most newer fork crowns are assembled this way.

Are you sure the foot is threaded into the leg? I have no idea, but it would be good to make sure before you ruin something.


it IS threaded and you should be able to get it out, if youre not a total hack you should be able to smell the bonding agent WAY before it gets hotter than say a powdercoat oven. i mean, the smell is strong
 

DukeNukem3d

Monkey
Oct 4, 2004
138
0
vitox said:
it IS threaded and you should be able to get it out, if youre not a total hack you should be able to smell the bonding agent WAY before it gets hotter than say a powdercoat oven. i mean, the smell is strong
Cool to hear you know it IS threaded because I need to know if it is.
I will heat it up a bit to see what happens.

Is it cryofitted too?
 

zedro

Turbo Monkey
Sep 14, 2001
4,160
0
at the end of the longest line
if you need more heat than a heat gun, DO NOT USE A TORCH....you will almost immediatly soften the aluminum. Aging (the point at which it's mechanical properties begin to change) happens just above 300F for 6061-T6 for example, so an oven at a very low and controlled heat would be an option

and there was a recent thread on this, apparently they are threaded, of course versions can differ. Also Marzocchi is capable of handeling this if anything