[Sandwich]

Is there any way to replace the shock bottom out bumper on a coil over without complete diassembly?


My roco is likely due for a service, but it works well out on the trail, and not having to send it off would be very nice as I'm not sure it's the shock I want to end up with. I don't want to run without a bumper though, so even a reasonable bandaid replacement would be OK.

 

[canadmos]

Cut one open, slide it on and then glue it back together so it can't pop off?

 

[Jm_]

Cut one open, slide it on and then glue it back together so it can't pop off?

Pretty sure that would make it fly off under a bottom-out event. Those are usually specifically shaped to work under that extreme.

 

[Sandwich]

yeah I'm not sure that would last more than one bottom out...suppose it's better than nothing...

 

[canadmos]

If its rubber or foam, can't you get an adhesive that will bind it together so its essentially one piece again?

 

[Westy]

cut the old one off and jut wrap a shit ton of electrical tape around the top of the shaft. Or maybe slit open a new one and hold it in place with zip ties or a hose clamp. Or slit one open and use zip ties, hose clamps and a bunch of electrical tape.

 

[HAB]

What if you just tried buying something decent out of the box instead of trying to cobble together some random bullshit for once?

 

[jonKranked]

What if you just tried buying something decent out of the box instead of trying to cobble together some random bullshit for once?

i am personally offended by this

 

[Sandwich]

What if you just tried buying something decent out of the box instead of trying to cobble together some random bullshit for once?

because after being made fun of incessently for my wacky backwards seatpost, I went out and bought the very best seatpost I could...which now has issues after the like 30 miles I've ridden it in total.

Something new doesn't always mean better... I could buy a CCDBIL for $375 and a $30 coil spring and be done with it, or send this thing off for $180 plus a spring, or just ride it as is (it works well) and possibly be happy, and spend $400 on crack and hookers.

 

[Jm_]

If its rubber or foam, can't you get an adhesive that will bind it together so its essentially one piece again?

Under a bottom-out when the thing compresses from 15mm to 1?

 

[canadmos]

Under a bottom-out when the thing compresses from 15mm to 1?

Yes. If you chemically weld it back together so its one piece, how will it split on the nonexistent seam?

 

[Jm_]

Yes. If you chemically weld it back together so its one piece, how will it split on the nonexistent seam?

Pretty sure even if you could do that, it would become a huge stress riser, even if you glue it back with vulcanizing fluid, I doubt you are going to reach the consistency and strength of the original. If you melted it down and formed a consistent evenly distributed mass, then sure, but I don't think anything like that will be possible.

 

[HAB]

because after being made fun of incessently for my wacky backwards seatpost, I went out and bought the very best seatpost I could...which now has issues after the like 30 miles I've ridden it in total.

Something new doesn't always mean better... I could buy a CCDBIL for $375 and a $30 coil spring and be done with it, or send this thing off for $180 plus a spring, or just ride it as is (it works well) and possibly be happy, and spend $400 on crack and hookers.

I said decent, not new. Totally agreed that those aren't one and the same.

A Roco with a disintegrating bottom out bumper is neither, and trying to get a bottom out bumper on it without bothering to rebuild it isn't even polishing a turd. It's more like just squishing it around between your toes a bit.

 

[Sandwich]

I said decent, not new. Totally agreed that those aren't one and the same.

A Roco with a disintegrating bottom out bumper is neither, and trying to get a bottom out bumper on it without bothering to rebuild it isn't even polishing a turd. It's more like just squishing it around between your toes a bit.

that's fair, about both the roco and new v decent. I am looking for a good shock in the right size with the right adjustments...I just don't think the roco, even after a custom tune, will be what I'm looking for- it's heavy and very big, and doesn't offer LSC control which is more important to me in a trail shock than HSC. So, until a CCDBIL or fox Van or something similar pops up, it would be neat to keep the roco rolling, even if it's with a wad of electrical tape around the shaft.

 

[HAB]

What size?

 

[Adventurous]

Partial disassembly required, but you could remove the non-damper side eyelet. Saves you the trouble of rebuilding the damper. Still a PITA though.

 

[Westy]

I for one approve of janktastic solutions and look forward to hearing how well electrical tape bumpers work.

Actually A split bumper and electrical tape seem like the best solution.

 

[Sandwich]

What size?

7.875 x 2.0 or 200x50 if you're eurotrashy
bike is progressive with a little flat spot at the end, so an RC4 or adjustable bottom-out style shock is welcome but not entirely necessary- I suspect the flat spot will be taken up by BO bumper or I just WGAF.

As for the roco, my understanding is that it's designed to be user serviceable, so I should probably just have a crack at it with a wrench and some oil, but to do it right I need all new o-rings, plus the bumper, and I'm still left with a free-ridey shock for an XC frame.

 

[HAB]

I remember them being pretty easy to work on.


Back in 2006, when I last touched one.

 

[Adventurous]

I for one approve of janktastic solutions and look forward to hearing how well electrical tape bumpers work.

Actually A split bumper and electrical tape seem like the best solution.

I wonder how the modulus of explodicity for electrical tape in this applications compares to some heavy wall adhesive heat shrink.

 

[Westy]

I wonder how the modulus of explodicity for electrical tape in this applications compares to some heavy wall adhesive heat shrink.

Electrical tape's ability to be stretched to 200% is what makes it so great.

 

[HAB]

Electrical tape's ability to be stretched to 200% is what makes it so great.

Doesn't really relax to original length very well though.

I'm all for cobbling stuff together when it makes for a good result, but I just don't see this one working.

 

[Westy]

Doesn't really relax to original length very well though.

I'm all for cobbling stuff together when it makes for a good result, but I just don't see this one working.

I am willing to accept any failures Sandwich suffers on this journey.

I should have clarified that I support other people trying janktastic solutions.

It it was me I would have just stiffened up my existing shock to reduce travel.

 

[HAB]

I am willing to accept any failures Sandwich suffers on this journey.

Great point, carry on.

 

[Jm_]

I for one approve of janktastic solutions and look forward to hearing how well electrical tape bumpers work.

Actually A split bumper and electrical tape seem like the best solution.

Might I suggest gorilla tape, I’m not a fan of the tape fix, but enough gorilla tape can fix anything. Hell, you could make a new bumper out of gorilla tape.

 

[jonKranked]

 

[Sandwich]

I remember them being pretty easy to work on.


Back in 2006, when I last touched one.

maybe this was the one then! woody found it in a trash can in whistler attached to some equivalent quality frame.

I am willing to accept any failures Sandwich suffers on this journey.

I should have clarified that I support other people trying janktastic solutions.

It it was me I would have just stiffened up my existing shock to reduce travel.

I cracked open my X2 to add volume reducers, only to find that it already had volume reducers. I have increased spring rate and compression to make it firmer, but if I short shock the bike I can go coil, and that's pretty appealing from a "set and forget" standpoint.

 

[canadmos]

Try it now already!

 

[Westy]

Might I suggest gorilla tape, I’m not a fan of the tape fix, but enough gorilla tape can fix anything. Hell, you could make a new bumper out of gorilla tape.

I think we need to do some performance testing to identify the best tape based bumper replacement. I have my money on self fusing rubberized tape.

 

[canadmos]

This is amazing... Pretty much the same question as @Sandwich and some of the same suggestions as you guys here...

Is there any way to replace rear shock bump stop without rebuild?

Is there any way to replace rear shock bump stop without rebuilding non-rebuildable Sachs ZF shock? Does anyone make coil stops?

advrider.com

 

[Westy]

This is amazing... Pretty much the same question as @Sandwich and some of the same suggestions as you guys here...

Is there any way to replace rear shock bump stop without rebuild?

Is there any way to replace rear shock bump stop without rebuilding non-rebuildable Sachs ZF shock? Does anyone make coil stops?

advrider.com

It is like the head gasket in a bottle of the suspension world.

 

[englertracing]

I dont know this shock
but with many shocks you can dump the nitrogen,
use your shaft camp, and unthread the clevice replace the bumper, and then um undo all of the aforementioned.
on many shocks, not dumping the nitrogen will be a bad time, mmmkaaayyy

 

[HAB]

I dont know this shock
but with many shocks you can dump the nitrogen,
use your shaft camp, and unthread the clevice replace the bumper, and then um undo all of the aforementioned.
on many shocks, not dumping the nitrogen will be a bad time, mmmkaaayyy

What, you don't want the rebound needle embedded in your forehead?

The Roco is a pretty normal monotube shock with an IFP, that probably works.

 

[englertracing]

What, you don't want the rebound needle embedded in your forehead?

The Roco is a pretty normal monotube shock with an IFP, that probably works.

no,
I don't even like wearing oil
going to have to pass on component embedding...........

 

[Leafy]

You don't have to completely disassemble a coil shock to replace the bumpstop. Just take the spring off and then take the eyelet off you should be able to get it out after that. If that fucker is on there real good just grab a piece of scrap aluminum, band/hack saw it in half. Clamp it back together where you cut it and then drill more or less on center with they cut with the same size drill bit as the shock shaft and boom, you've made yourself a set of non-marring shock shaft clamps.

 

[slimshady]

Just buckle up, fill the cooler to the brim with whichever beer variant you fancy, watch this a few times, grab another six pack and head up to the shop:

And here are the IFP depths for each stroke/length:

http://marzocchiworkshop.blogspot.com/2013/02/service-guide-roco-rc-coil-shock.html

 

[HardtailHack]

Do you have a miniature human that could whip you up a loom band bump rubber?

If not, maybe drill, cut and rescue tape a butt plug?

 

[Sandwich]

thanks, you bozos are always uselessful

I'm reading through some old threads and it looks like 2.5wt Redline/Spectro/Maxima shock fluid. I think I can disassemble the shock as I have it, remove the bolt holding the piston, then replace the bumper that way. I can rebuild and replace the bumper hopefully without having to buy a shedload of seals. If i do, into the heap it goes. I do not have shaft clamps to do it the "easy" way.

 

[canadmos]

Why not just find something like this? If it can withstand the weight of a car, surely it can hold up to bike use?

Amazon.com: Bumpstops 22,5mm Light&Easy: Automotive

Buy Bumpstops 22, 5mm Light&Easy: Lighting Assemblies & Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Sandwich]

Is 22.5 the OD or ID? I was hesitant because A) total lack of information and B) $27 for a bandaid that may not work.

I totally understand that there's a right way to do this, but I'm not particularly interested because the shock is functionally fine and is tuned fairly well for what I want it to do. I could spend $400 on a new shock, $180 on a tune, or $75 on parts to rebuild it, or I could just fucking ride the thing if I could find an easy solution.