Lol haven't seen those in a bit...always want to pound beef and soften it up
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Short Crank Curious…
- Thread starter rideit
- Start date
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Want to try a set of the regular helix 165 race cranks...would love to see durability and like the look...favorite are Canfield , Chris and I wanted a modern set of middleburm rs7 and bugged about it for years.. lance finally did and he gave it a vanity ring so your shoes dont wear off the anodizing surface lol... They rub the small raised ring.
The e13 look pretty well designed and like the shape...
The e13 look pretty well designed and like the shape...
the ones that were on the original orbea rise fucked up the threads of the motor spindle, changed mine to shimano ones right when i bought mine.
Shimano EP8 motor bottom bracket spindle failures caused by "manufacturing defects", ethirteen claims
Independent analysis alleges defects as the cause of cracked and snapped EP8 BB spindles
www.bikeradar.com
Damn, ok well I have good cranks I'll stay with for a bit..I heard that but I didn't think it was these, figured it was a stripped down version...I know Shimano was blaming race face and viceversathe ones that were on the original orbea rise fucked up the threads of the motor spindle, changed mine to shimano ones right when i bought mine.
Shimano EP8 motor bottom bracket spindle failures caused by "manufacturing defects", ethirteen claims
Independent analysis alleges defects as the cause of cracked and snapped EP8 BB spindles
But what is wrong with running a short splined section with a big hole drilled in it? Looks fine to me.
Did you drill them yet?
www.ignitecomponents.com
Catalyst Cranks | Ignite Components
*Demand has been absolutely incredible, which I am very appreciative of. All new orders placed on non-stock items are looking at about an 8 week ETA Catalyst Cranks are strong, light, beautiful, and made right here in-house.Using the finest cold forged aluminum and the latest cutting-edge...
www.ignitecomponents.com
Some good reading to nerd out to on shorter crank arms
bikepacking.com
Battle of the Cranks: A Real-World Crank Length Test
After riding with some shorter Appleman Bicycles cranks last fall, Miles was curious to take a deeper dive into a full crank length test...
So familiarity increases functionality? Kinda true of most new equipment. No?
I honestly wouldn't take anything from 4 FTP results taken over a 6 day period or HR data in close succession over 3 rides in 5 days then another ride a week later. Far too many variables at play. particularly resting state/freshness of the rider.
A few interewsting thoughts about positioning etc. and a very good (if obvious) point made on the shorter cranks reducing knee and hip angles.
[cool_story]10 years ago I got a new roadbike that came with 172.5s (when I'd been on 170mm on my roadbikes since 14yrs old) and after a few 1000 miles suddenly developed knee pain. Found it hard to believe it could be down to 2.5mm longer cranks but I switched to 165mm (same as my mtbs) and pretty much overnight it solved my knee pain issues.[/cool_story]
I love a good geek out myself but find a lot of Seb's nerding to suck the joy from riding.
mtb equipment nerding became cyclical some time back. With sizing been done to death. What are we gonna be worrying about next? Q-Factor again? or perhaps something *new* like aero socks?
There's a lot to be said for just riding yer bike MOAR
I honestly wouldn't take anything from 4 FTP results taken over a 6 day period or HR data in close succession over 3 rides in 5 days then another ride a week later. Far too many variables at play. particularly resting state/freshness of the rider.
A few interewsting thoughts about positioning etc. and a very good (if obvious) point made on the shorter cranks reducing knee and hip angles.
[cool_story]10 years ago I got a new roadbike that came with 172.5s (when I'd been on 170mm on my roadbikes since 14yrs old) and after a few 1000 miles suddenly developed knee pain. Found it hard to believe it could be down to 2.5mm longer cranks but I switched to 165mm (same as my mtbs) and pretty much overnight it solved my knee pain issues.[/cool_story]
I love a good geek out myself but find a lot of Seb's nerding to suck the joy from riding.
mtb equipment nerding became cyclical some time back. With sizing been done to death. What are we gonna be worrying about next? Q-Factor again? or perhaps something *new* like aero socks?
There's a lot to be said for just riding yer bike MOAR
yet here you are, working on you post count and playing games on your playstation
Fuck yeah, love me some narrow cranks.
EDIT- If somebody wants to swap their 73mm/165mm Saints for some 175mm ones I'm your guy, I'll even give you some money.
DOUBLE EDIT- I probably should just go to a 5mm longer shock.
I'm due for a crank update. I've transferred my OEM RF Aefect crank and BB from my 2017 Scout. Close to the 4k miles on those.
Been short crank curious for a while since new Scout is damn low. Thinking about a set of RF Turbine in 165. Are those still a solid choice?
Been short crank curious for a while since new Scout is damn low. Thinking about a set of RF Turbine in 165. Are those still a solid choice?
Riding bicycles is something I've done pretty much every day year round for most of my life. Playstation. Not so much.
I'd have expected a snide creepy little cunt like you to have already known this.
Other than futzing to get the correct (MASSIVE) torque, I didn't have any major issues with RF Turbines. Personally, I'll always go Shimano over the RF interface.
What this guy said.
I have a set of Turbine cranks that have survived my fatass for a few thousand hard miles. The arms have been pedaled into more rocks than I'd like to admit.
But it must be said, even though these require a lot of torque to do up, they've always undone fairly easy. Unlike the other Sram Dub cranks in my shed...
The only downsides are the aforementioned single bolt interface woes, though if @Jozz has been using the Aeffect ones up to this point, there'd be no change there. The other downside is that the bottom brackets for 30mm spindle cranks are double that of what Shimano ones go for.
Kinda surprised about the torque woes. I usually torque them up to arm power without wrench and they never came loose. And they come out so easy. Also the cinch interface is pretty sweet.
I don't understand the torque woes either. I've been running 165mm SixC cranks for... 4 years now? no issues. And I'm not a light fella a 220lbs and change out of the shower. I found RF cranks take a bit of time to settle, but eventually they get there. I also like the Cinch interface, makes ring swaps easy.
@Jozz why stop at 165... seems like 160 would be good to avoid east coast rox... Just make sure you can handle the slight drop in gearing...
@Jozz why stop at 165... seems like 160 would be good to avoid east coast rox... Just make sure you can handle the slight drop in gearing...
I'm on 175 now, so for me at 6'-2" seems 165 would be great.
I know you don't want to let better get in the way of good, but from everything I've seen, seems like 160 would still be fine. Maybe even great. These two posts seem to abound in the same sense:
Some good reading to nerd out to on shorter crank arms
Battle of the Cranks: A Real-World Crank Length Test
After riding with some shorter Appleman Bicycles cranks last fall, Miles was curious to take a deeper dive into a full crank length test...
Removing the single bolt on Race Face cranks is admittedly much easier than a Sram Dub crank, but in comparison to Shimano cranks its hard. 
Dub cranks have a higher torque specification and there is something about either bolt or the spindle material (or both), it seems to get tighter over time. It feels like the bolt is snapping when it finally lets loose, compared to a much more knuckle friendly relaxed release on the Race Face cranks.
Dub cranks have a higher torque specification and there is something about either bolt or the spindle material (or both), it seems to get tighter over time. It feels like the bolt is snapping when it finally lets loose, compared to a much more knuckle friendly relaxed release on the Race Face cranks.
The idea of 170+mm cranks needs to go the way of ultra-narrow bars, and stanchion boots. So many manufacturers are stuck in the distant past
fingers crossed. seems like an easy way to wring more money from consumers too... win-win?!
well if you’re getting 5mm shorter cranks you should drop your chain ring 2 teeth size, so you should probably also get a new chain and cassette. Maybe a new set of jockey wheels. Now, if you’re taking off the derailleur you may as well put in a new cable and some housing…
it never ends
Still for sale.<insert cool story bro> I've had a brand new Sram GXP bottom bracket for sale on PinkBike for almost two years now. Not a single message or low ball offer for it.
Still no offers, would give it away at this point.
Time to create sculpture.Still for sale.
Still no offers, would give it away at this point.
@canadmos so how was your transition from 175 to 165? Turbine are finally on sale.
Honestly I haven't really noticed much of a change. Maybe my feet spin a little faster?
I also put them on a completely new to me bike, I think I only rode with the longer cranks a few times before switching. So perhaps not the greatest use case. Similar to when people ask about switching to a mixed wheel setup - its hard to give an answer because everything is new.
I am thinking about giving some 160 or 155's a try on my DH bike. I've run almost exclusively shimano cranks for as long as I have been riding mtb but these really have my interest. Beautiful work on these:
northshorebillet.com
Talon Crankset
Our new enduro and downhill crank is precision machined from 7075 T6 aluminum in our Whistler machine shop. Available in four lengths from 155mm to 170mm and three axle widths.
northshorebillet.com
A riding buddy has those, they are certainly nice.I am thinking about giving some 160 or 155's a try on my DH bike. I've run almost exclusively shimano cranks for as long as I have been riding mtb but these really have my interest. Beautiful work on these:
Talon Crankset
Our new enduro and downhill crank is precision machined from 7075 T6 aluminum in our Whistler machine shop. Available in four lengths from 155mm to 170mm and three axle widths.
I can't bring myself to spend that kind of coin on cranks. My current set of Shimano is only a few months old and already has several rock strikes.
I think my last XTR cranks probably lasted me 10 years I had them on so many bikes over time. The fact these NSB cranks can be used across bb width's is really cool imo. That makes them more future proof.
Now, can anyone see a real downside to 155 for DH? I personally don't see a ton, I don't race or need to smash on the pedals etc.
Unfortunately, Shimano hasn't come into the 21st century yetThat's why you need 155's