[Chaingangster]

So I've got a Lyrik 2-step laying around that I want to put on a Blur 4x frame. The 2-step is either 160mm or 115mm. I'd like @140mm of travel. I know I can convert the 2-step to a Solo-air and then reduce the travel by 20mm, but does anyone know if I can keep the 2-step and reduce it 20mm to make it a 140/95mm fork instead of a 160/115mm fork? Thanks!

Coincidentally, while we're on the topic, has anyone stuck a 7.875x2.25 shock on the back of a Blur 4x instead of the stock 7.875x2.0 shock to get the travel up to 5"? If so, did it work well? I'm trying to turn this Blur into my "real man's trail bike" so I'm thinking 5.5" on the front and 5" on the rear will result in good, fun geometry for trail riding/super-d racing. Any thoughts??

 

[Bicyclist]

I'm curious about the longer stroke shock too. I am running mine right now with a 140mm Pike and I love the geo, really natural feeling for a DH'er and the BB isn't too high either.

 

[TWeerts]

if there is a negative air chamber, you could try putting a 20mm spacer in the negative air chamber.

 

[greengreer]

In regards to your longer shock stroke I just saw this over on mtbr http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=597189

On my gruitr it is possible to run both 2.0 and 2.25, so I imagine you could take your shock out and see at what point things start to make contact, then measure the difference

 

[Banshee Rider]

From what I recall, a 2.25" won't work on the 4X because the seatstay bridge will contact the seat tube. However, there were a handful of people claiming that a 2.25 coil shock would work without contact. The only logical explaination would be that the bumper couldn't compress enough which (just barely) prevented contact. I personally would be concerned about the tire contacting the FD cable mount as well, especially if your running >2.35 tires.

As for the fork, it's been a while since I worked on a 2-step. From what I remember, the IFP submerged in 2.5wt oil was located in its own chamber located above the main air chamber. Assuming the air chamber is simply a solo air chamber filled from the bottom, logically I don't see a reason why you couldn't reduce the travel with a standard rock shock shim. This is by no means to be taking as absolutely fact, you should really consult rock shox or someone who has successfull done it before listening to me.

One thing is for sure on the fork though, when I had problems with my two-step and asked to be "downgraded" to solo air, I was sent an entire CSU with the solo air assembly and top cap. People online say the honed stancion makes no difference, but I've always wondered why they would sent me a CSU I don't need to do the conversion if it didn't.

 

[troy]

(Reassembly part)

I would put a 2,5mm oring(to avoid clunk noise during the rebound)then 1,5cm long pcv/nylon spacer and 2nd 2,5mm oring between lower floating piston and the lower seal head . Or put 2cm longer top out spring . Much cheaper than buying solo air assembly .