Yes , I start to realise that... and the spring seems quite soft for the 70psi I pumped in.
Fox does not specify the spring rate for that one in the doc.
Signs your FIT RC2 damper needs a service/rebuild
- Thread starter csermonet
- Start date
Fox does not specify the spring rate for that one in the doc.
The quite soft spring rate for the negative spring was not so bad after all, especially after having removed the top out spring! I now have a good balance between the positive and negative springs at full extension which increased the initial suppleness to what you would expect from a modern fork.
I also swap the fox float fluid for some gold oil in the positive chamber and crank up both compressions a little.
Only drawback is that there is now a top out klonk but nothing I notice while riding tho...
I also swap the fox float fluid for some gold oil in the positive chamber and crank up both compressions a little.
Only drawback is that there is now a top out klonk but nothing I notice while riding tho...
I have maximised my armchair engineering skills and replace the original negative spring of my old 36 with a cut XS Boxxer spring and a few other pieces in order to allow things to glide freely and rattlefree. Now the fork feels like the front tire is punctured... 
At least I got rid of the top out noise!
At least I got rid of the top out noise!
That's a little long for a negative spring eh?
Actually a long and rather soft negative spring makes plenty of sense to me: it allows the force vs travel curves of the negative and positive springs to blend seamlessly while a shorter but stiffer negative spring will create a combined air spring curve with a kink where the negative spring is fully extended.
Your fork still extend all the way?
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130mm which is where I want it to be
There were 50mm of spacers on top of the original negative spring before if you check the picture above
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How much positive contribution to the total weight of the fork does the negative spring have?
your running a 180mm fork at 130mm of travel?
a clearer picture is forming in my mind
Can you please rephrase? I am not sure if I understand...
More is not always better.
I have this fork on my hardtail where 180mm of travel would result in a unnecessary high bb and would be way too much anyway.
I can also easily convert it back to its original shape if needed... No worry!
Nope, only up to TALAS III, sorry.
Did it work?
I'd be interested as well - about to tear apart an 09 36 fit rc2 talas III for as full a rebuild as I can with the parts still available (no bladder's anymore unfortunately)
oh how fun......
so,
on that one, you still have some parts stuck in the damper tube that go with the base valve.
the black job to the right of your bladder, goes in the lower, to stop the tube from smacking the lower.
so,
on that one, you still have some parts stuck in the damper tube that go with the base valve.
the black job to the right of your bladder, goes in the lower, to stop the tube from smacking the lower.
Check that and a few posts below. You should find everything you need
Signs your FIT RC2 damper needs a service/rebuild
I have a 2011 Fox 40 and recently did an oil change on the lowers. While I had the fork apart, I cycle'd the damper side rod through its travel. When it got to the last ~15% of its stroke, you could feel a very slight "notch". I doubt it would be noticeable while actually riding. I haven't...
ridemonkey.bikemag.com
@Dj from the picture it looks like a non inverted fit damper that is older and quite different from what you linked to.
I think it's a 2009 model
Similar to mine. Check my earlier posts, there is plenty of info there
Send me a pm with your email and I can share a google drive fileset with all the original fox info.
The thread of the brake hose guide on my trusty 36 from 2009 just got stripped. Any advice about how to fix that?
I just did a full rebuild to get it back to 150-160mm of travel and adjust the damping to my son's weight. Even with 40psi of pressure, the original negative coil would top out... I put another coil instead which balances out the force from the air chamber much better. It took me a few rebuild to get it right but I got there at the end. Nice feeling to see my boy happily jumping around on his "new" bike
I just did a full rebuild to get it back to 150-160mm of travel and adjust the damping to my son's weight. Even with 40psi of pressure, the original negative coil would top out... I put another coil instead which balances out the force from the air chamber much better. It took me a few rebuild to get it right but I got there at the end. Nice feeling to see my boy happily jumping around on his "new" bike
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Always been paranoid about that. Looks like options are:
Give up and use a zip tie
Drill and tap (if even necessary) for next larger size of bolt
Thread/epoxy in a stud the same size as the original and use a nut to retain the hose guide
Helicoil or similar seems iffy based on the size.
Give up and use a zip tie
Drill and tap (if even necessary) for next larger size of bolt
Thread/epoxy in a stud the same size as the original and use a nut to retain the hose guide
Helicoil or similar seems iffy based on the size.
Happened to my 40. Just zip tied it.