Ive been a road biker for most of my life and know what I am doing in that department.
In the last few years I have taken mtbing more seriously. None of my mtb buds think I have the right bike. I personally think I just lack skill and experience but most of they guys I ride with think my bike sucks.
When I purchased my mountain bikes I knew next to nothing about the sport. My first purchase was a Trek Y3 with the URT design. After awhile I decided it was too heavy to move real fast so I bucked up for Trek Y-22 of the same basic design. For several years I just used the Y-22 in the winter on fire roads to build strength for climbing, any off road I did was your basic XC and I was always climb oriented. Both of these bikes have been significantly upgraded and between the two Ive spent a buttload of cash. I tried to turn Y-3 into a free ride type of deal and just rebuilt Y-22 for continued XC and climbing.
The Y-22 is not a good DH bike and was never intended to be one, as an XC ride I am pretty happy with it.
The Y-3 is the same frame as a Y-Glide so I got it in my head to convert it. I searched out an Eric Boulton rear triangle, stripped the fame and had it rebuilt from the ground up with good bits that work great. I have no issues with the any of the parts but I have serious control issues on intermediate DH trails. I have no real trouble on small drops, roots, large loose rocks and your typical stuff. I do have serious control issues on hairpin turns in combination with the above mentioned trail conditions. Some guys I know blame this on the URT design but I am not convinced I think my LSB sold me a bike that was too large. I think he wanted to sell off the floor instead of making a special order.
I now know that I was sold a large frame instead of a medium, the frame size was not in the paperwork or on the bike at the time I purchased it. I was under the impression that I was buying a medium frame at the time. When I compared the frame to one that is actually a medium I found no real standover height difference but there is a 4 top tube difference. My wheelbase is 4 longer then a typical medium sized frame.
So how bad is the URT design compared to a single pivot? (Please do not compare 4 bar designs.)
Trek Y-frames are old news but I am not really swayed by the latest anyway. I have no desired to do stunts, large drops and air is something I breath. What I would like is to get around the tight, techincal corners in a controlled manner at a reasonable speed. I am 5ft7 and 155lbs and take a 53cm road frame. Would switching to a smaller Y-frame help with my control issues?
The Boulton rear triangle is fits a variety of mid 90s single pivot frames but treks Ys sell pretty cheap used and I am now on a budget.
SM thanks you.
In the last few years I have taken mtbing more seriously. None of my mtb buds think I have the right bike. I personally think I just lack skill and experience but most of they guys I ride with think my bike sucks.
When I purchased my mountain bikes I knew next to nothing about the sport. My first purchase was a Trek Y3 with the URT design. After awhile I decided it was too heavy to move real fast so I bucked up for Trek Y-22 of the same basic design. For several years I just used the Y-22 in the winter on fire roads to build strength for climbing, any off road I did was your basic XC and I was always climb oriented. Both of these bikes have been significantly upgraded and between the two Ive spent a buttload of cash. I tried to turn Y-3 into a free ride type of deal and just rebuilt Y-22 for continued XC and climbing.
The Y-22 is not a good DH bike and was never intended to be one, as an XC ride I am pretty happy with it.
The Y-3 is the same frame as a Y-Glide so I got it in my head to convert it. I searched out an Eric Boulton rear triangle, stripped the fame and had it rebuilt from the ground up with good bits that work great. I have no issues with the any of the parts but I have serious control issues on intermediate DH trails. I have no real trouble on small drops, roots, large loose rocks and your typical stuff. I do have serious control issues on hairpin turns in combination with the above mentioned trail conditions. Some guys I know blame this on the URT design but I am not convinced I think my LSB sold me a bike that was too large. I think he wanted to sell off the floor instead of making a special order.
I now know that I was sold a large frame instead of a medium, the frame size was not in the paperwork or on the bike at the time I purchased it. I was under the impression that I was buying a medium frame at the time. When I compared the frame to one that is actually a medium I found no real standover height difference but there is a 4 top tube difference. My wheelbase is 4 longer then a typical medium sized frame.
So how bad is the URT design compared to a single pivot? (Please do not compare 4 bar designs.)
Trek Y-frames are old news but I am not really swayed by the latest anyway. I have no desired to do stunts, large drops and air is something I breath. What I would like is to get around the tight, techincal corners in a controlled manner at a reasonable speed. I am 5ft7 and 155lbs and take a 53cm road frame. Would switching to a smaller Y-frame help with my control issues?
The Boulton rear triangle is fits a variety of mid 90s single pivot frames but treks Ys sell pretty cheap used and I am now on a budget.
SM thanks you.