[SirChomps-a-Lot]

In accordance with my recent rejection of all shock technology except rebound damping, I am looking to 'slam' the boost valve on a new dhx air 3.0 -- i.e. run it at minimum pressure. I don't want 'propedal' I don't want compression damping of any sort. I just want to set the main pressure for appropriate sag, and set the rebound to extra medium.

Is my understanding of what the boost valve does correct? What's the min pressure I can run?

Also does my shock, in your professional opinion, need moar shimz to perform its best?

 

[boogenman]

One of these on the handle bars should do the trick

 

[Prettym1k3]

Oooh. Who is Amber Lamps. I must meet her. She's such a hipster.

 

[Spahman]

Oooh. Who is Amber Lamps. I must meet her. She's such a hipster.

I don't like her hair

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

Indeed. According to fox literature, the min boost valve pressure is 125psi. Running lower is reputed to cause emulsification of the oil and generally mess the shock up.

Can anyone confirm/deny? Do I need to contact epic beard man to get you people back on track?

 

[spacemanspiff06]

lower than that will mess up your shock. don't know how but a friend ran his 5.0 to low and it developed play in the initial travel.
i consider myself a tweeker/fiddler and i can't really tell much difference between 125 and 300.

 

[Udi]

You can't actually run the shock with no compression damping, and in your case you'll be far from it. The propedal valve in the 3.0 is set somewhere in the middle, so by default you have ~7-8 clicks of propedal with nothing you can do about it, a compression shimstack on the main piston churning out a bit more compression damping, and finally the 125psi minimum you've discovered in the boost valve, which also adds compression damping (progressively so, hand-in-hand with the preset propedal assembly).

In short, thankfully the geniuses at fox have prevented stupid people from running stupid setups.

 

[bdamschen]

Just sell your full squish for a hard tail and then you'll never have to worry about your rear shock's pro pedal again!

 

[4130biker]

In short, thankfully the geniuses at fox have prevented stupid people from running stupid setups.

Ouch

 

[P.T.W]

Or you could just pickup a Vanilla DH instead?????? Cheap as chips and no boost valve + very little damping + rock solid.
Just an idea

 

[Percy]

Or you could just pickup a Vanilla DH instead?????? Cheap as chips and no boost valve + very little damping + rock solid.
Just an idea

Stop being sensible you!!

However that is most likely the best option, or an old Vanilla RC, that is if you guys over there in Stars and Stripes land still have any!

 

[stoney]

Dude, you're fricking retarded. Just use the minimum settings and be happy. They pedal great, and you're not going out to race pro, so just ride it. If you want no damping, call Push or avalanche, and once they are done laughing at you, I'm sure they'll build something.

I know you're a crunchy granola, I hate the man/modern technology schmuck, but seriously? Quit being so f*in angry and just ride you isht.

 

[DirtyMike]

However that is most likely the best option, or an old Vanilla RC, that is if you guys over there in Stars and Stripes land still have any!

We sent in an older RC off a GT IdriveDH about two years ago back to fox for an update/overhaul, came back with propedal stickers all over it. Felt effin awesome afterwords. It felt pretty damn damped, you could def feel the difference in the valving/shims from before and after. Not sure if the newer vanilla are coming with anything like this, kinda curious myself actually

 

[boogenman]

why is anyone even giving this dude advice?

Just use a spring on a shaft? Rebound is not that great either.

 

[GoodbyePorkPie]

Should I ask?

what bike are you running this on, not all linkage rates are the same without going into lots of detail.

This was some info shared by DT on how to setup the DHR with the DHXc

Its how I run my DHR and its bang on imo and similar to what your are after but the DHR has an aggressive rising rate which matches this setup.

Can't see why though for the bike you have maybe a re valve and tune to your suspension dynamics then can't see any reason why it cannot be done for any bike. Course to achieve this spring rate must match as well.

With all valving knobs backed off you should adjust to 30-33% sag or about an inch between the bolts. Set the pressure to 125 and leave it alone.
Any less and Fox will frown, and any more and you will start limiting travel. With the rising rate found on the DHR if the spring is right it is rare to harshly bottom.
You could throw the whole bottom out adjust away on the DHR, but customers want all the bells and whistles.
It sounds like you are trying to control mid stroke with the resy pressure, don't. That is an end travel adjust.
As you have learned PP which will help firm up mid stroke but will just make the rear harsh. PP should be used as a fine tune adjust for compression, that's all.
If you want firmer midstroke, get a revalve.

 

[Percy]

We sent in an older RC off a GT IdriveDH about two years ago back to fox for an update/overhaul, came back with propedal stickers all over it. Felt effin awesome afterwords. It felt pretty damn damped, you could def feel the difference in the valving/shims from before and after. Not sure if the newer vanilla are coming with anything like this, kinda curious myself actually

The RC is still the shizzle!

Im gonna experiment with one in my ASX, that is if or when I can ride again.

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

Dude, you're fricking retarded. Just use the minimum settings and be happy. They pedal great, and you're not going out to race pro, so just ride it. If you want no damping, call Push or avalanche, and once they are done laughing at you, I'm sure they'll build something.

I know you're a crunchy granola, I hate the man/modern technology schmuck, but seriously? Quit being so f*in angry and just ride you isht.

Just checking if the official min setting is the same as the actual min setting. I plan on riding it. Into the damn ground.

I stand by my hatred of compression damping. If I wanted the suspension to not move, I would have bought a bike with less suspension. I didn't used to feel this way until I spent 4 years on a 5th element, which was a total turd. It taught me that in order to make a shock that had adjustable compression damping, they had to make the range from 'too much' to 'way too much' and riders left them set on the minimum, wishing the minimum was lower.

I also maintain that the whole point of suspension is to deal with small stuttery bumps. Big bumps my legs can handle. They have like 2 feet of travel.

 

[stoney]

That shock was the only thing that made your bike pedal well, and you damn well know it. Having ridden more than a few DW bikes, when setup up properly, they feel great.

 

[DirtyMike]

Just checking if the official min setting is the same as the actual min setting. I plan on riding it. Into the damn ground.

I stand by my hatred of compression damping. If I wanted the suspension to not move, I would have bought a bike with less suspension. I didn't used to feel this way until I spent 4 years on a 5th element, which was a total turd. It taught me that in order to make a shock that had adjustable compression damping, they had to make the range from 'too much' to 'way too much' and riders left them set on the minimum, wishing the minimum was lower.

I also maintain that the whole point of suspension is to deal with small stuttery bumps. Big bumps my legs can handle. They have like 2 feet of travel.

Hmmmmm, sounds to me like youve been running oversprung if that if your opinion of suspension. Obviously you want your suspension to move, but just like a dirtbike, or an offroad vehicle you want it to be controlled. If you cant keep your wheels on the ground you cant control the bike. Thats the whole idea of having different controlls.....so you can get the best of both, stability for pedalling, while allowing your wheel to come up, and get back down to keep contact on teh ground.........Sounds to me like you got a case of a shock in a box with your fifth ele experience<IE, not tunes for your suspension at all>

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

Hmmmmm, sounds to me like youve been running oversprung if that if your opinion of suspension. Obviously you want your suspension to move, but just like a dirtbike, or an offroad vehicle you want it to be controlled. If you cant keep your wheels on the ground you cant control the bike. Thats the whole idea of having different controlls.....so you can get the best of both, stability for pedalling, while allowing your wheel to come up, and get back down to keep contact on teh ground.........Sounds to me like you got a case of a shock in a box with your fifth ele experience<IE, not tunes for your suspension at all>

5th came on the bike. Proper spring for my weight. It just had no small bump sensitivity.

I agree that theoretically it would be great to have a knob that made the bike pedal great, but still rip downhill, never bottom out, and shoot rainbows everytime I hucked a massive gap. In practice, it doesn't often work out that way.

There's been a lot of shock technologies that claimed to offer 'the best of both worlds' but none has been any good. Despite what the marketing wants you to believe, compromises have to be made. That said, I haven't ridden any of the new shocks (ccdb,roco,vivid,elka,rc4). I would love to have one of them prove me wrong.

 

[DirtyMike]

I dont know man, I have afifth on my blindside, doesnt bounce when I pedal, bottoms when it should IE drops, big hits ETC, ass end is plenty active when its supposed to be, yet super stable for turns, pedalling etc.....< 90 psi, two turns on Begging stroke, three on end.......>

I mean you have to have some comp dampening or your just going to blow through your travel and bottom out again and again on every little bump, its going to wallow into every turn, and just be like riding a walmart bike

 

[stoney]

Although not a new generation, the DHX5 on my 575 is pretty f*in impressive. I would like a bit more support while pedaling uphill, but I can just flip the Propedal switch. It works well enough.