[laxincubus311]

for these 2 conditon i need to know the aparature and shutter speed and compensation

shadded woods, dark from heavy clouds and reall bright out and for still shots or biking shots that are fast. thanks alot!

 

[BurlyShirley]

Originally posted by laxincubus311
for these 2 conditon i need to know the aparature and shutter speed and compensation

shadded woods, dark from heavy clouds and reall bright out and for still shots or biking shots that are fast. thanks alot!

How bout I just send you my camera set up the way you want it, and I'll trust you to send it back as soon as youre done?

 

[laxincubus311]

wow i said im sorry and i still get crap thanks alot

 

[BurlyShirley]

what is the speed of your film?

You know the sunny 16 rule?

 

[laxincubus311]

its 200

 

[BurlyShirley]

Originally posted by laxincubus311
its 200

Ok, listen.

This is the sunny 16 rule.

Set your shutter speed to match your film speed. In this case. 200.

Now, if its sunny out...set the aperature to 16.

If its cloudy out, open it up 2 notches.

If its really dark, go more from there. Experiment. Get a flash. Using that simple rule though, you'll get at least an exposure.

 

[laxincubus311]

16 really, my buddy uses 5.6 for his pics

 

[BurlyShirley]

Originally posted by laxincubus311
16 really, my buddy uses 5.6 for his pics

so.

 

[laxincubus311]

well thats almost tripple the amount

 

[BurlyShirley]

Originally posted by laxincubus311
well thats almost tripple the amount

so, if your friend takes good pictures than copy his settings if they work in those conditions. If you want a general rule of thumb i gave you one.

 

[arsenic]

time to do some reading if you want to learn anything. the sunny 16 rule works for a reason. your friend might use a 5.6 aperature but at what shutter speed?

you know the smaller the aperature (bigger the number) the more "things" will be in focus right ? as in further away from the point of focus both near and far.

i suck at explaining this. find a simple book on photography. it'll do wonders for you.

 

[LordOpie]

Originally posted by arsenic
find a simple book on photography. it'll do wonders for you.

but he got his library card suspended for not returning 'em

 

[arsenic]

Originally posted by LordOpie
but he got his library card suspended for not returning 'em

hahahah i spit water at that.

 

[BigMike]

set it to auto

 

[BigMike]

sorry, I had to. No, really though, read up on it. The faster the shutter speed, the better your action shots will be. But, if you make the shutter faster, you have to make the aperature bigger. Its a big guess and test game. You;ll get the hang of it, but there is no "real" answer, because it depends on your conditions, and what you want your stuff to come out as.

Best thing to do, shoot the same thing, say... a car driving by a pole, with the same shutter speed and different aperatures, and then differnt shutter speeds with the same aperature. Take note of what you are doing, develop, and see what happens

 

[MMike]

Originally posted by laxincubus311
well thats almost tripple the amount

Well then the pictures should be 3 times as good.

 

[Transcend]

Originally posted by arsenic
time to do some reading if you want to learn anything. the sunny 16 rule works for a reason. your friend might use a 5.6 aperature but at what shutter speed?

you know the smaller the aperature (bigger the number) the more "things" will be in focus right ? as in further away from the point of focus both near and far.

i suck at explaining this. find a simple book on photography. it'll do wonders for you.

depth of field is indeed, key.

 

[binary visions]

There's no hard and fast rules for this stuff anyway. How you want the exposure to turn out (depth of field, exposure), how you shoot the shot (coming at you, side shot, panning), how fast the subject is moving, how dark is dark...

Books can teach you a certain amount about the subject but there's really no substitute for just going out and shooting the same scene, over and over, different settings, different methods. You'll find out for yourself what works best.

 

[SkaredShtles]

Originally posted by binary visions
<snip> You'll find out for yourself what works best.

And then, if you're like me, you'll promptly forget and have to do it all over again........

-S.S.-

 

[binary visions]

Originally posted by SkaredShtles
And then, if you're like me, you'll promptly forget and have to do it all over again........

-S.S.-

See, that's my problem too, when I get a good shot I always forget what I had my settings at

 

[T-Pirate]

Well there is no set rule for "sunny" or "dark" because if you know how to use the camera you can do many different things with it. You really just have to learn how to use it.

 

[golgiaparatus]

Originally posted by laxincubus311
for these 2 conditon i need to know the aparature and shutter speed and compensation

shadded woods, dark from heavy clouds and reall bright out and for still shots or biking shots that are fast. thanks alot!

Learn how to use your light meter and figure that crap out mang.

Look through the lens at the area that your going to shoot and watch the little needle (or light) as you change your aperture setting. WHen you get a good reading then you will be ready to shoot.

My Nikon has a little lever that you pull back that will show you more or less what the pic will look like with the aperture setting that you choose.

NOTE:
Aperture wide open = blurry objects in the background and foreground of the object you are focused on.

Aperture constricted=focused (or atleast moreso) objects in in bkg and foreground.

Just dont try to get a certain look at the expense of a good meter reading (i.e. without adjusting your shudder speed)

Oh and... ehem... dont you have a bike you should be sending?

 

[MMike]

Actually, here's question:

what does film speed do? I mean, what makes 200 different from 400. We've been using 200 for a lot of our baby pics. And right now, most of them have been taken indoors. Even though the room is decently lit, and we're using a flash, the background is always really dark.

and this is with a decent SLR (Nikon N65)...but on fully automatic.

Would film speed affect this? My wife is convinced that we should use 400 speed. But....ya know....she says stuff.

Look how dark the background is

 

[binary visions]

Originally posted by MMike
My wife is convinced that we should use 400 speed. But....ya know....she says stuff.

That cracked me up right there.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/faqs/faq0010.shtml

http://www.symbiandiaries.com/archives/gadget17/000818.html

http://www.allsands.com/Hobbies/photographyfilm_sev_gn.htm

Indoor photography is simply a difficult thing, due to (usually) dim lighting. When you use the flash, the camera is adjusted to use a smaller aperture and/or higher shutter speed to compensate for the bright lighting. However, your background is not lit brightly, just the foreground where the flash hits. So you'll get dark backgrounds. If you can get the kid to hold still for a minute, and possibly use a tripod, you can shoot without the flash and the camera will compensate - larger aperture, slower shutter speed, and will capture the background as well.

edit: Incidentally, human eyesight "well lit" and camera "well lit" are entirely different things. Meter some shots indoors in what you'd consider would be a well lit room and take note of the shutter speed/aperture the camera chooses. When you take it outside and meter some shots, you'll find the shutter speed to be much higher and the aperture to be much more narrow.

Film speed is not contributing significantly to this, I don't believe.

 

[Toshi]

Originally posted by binary visions
Film speed is not contributing significantly to this, I don't believe.

nope, film speed is contributing to it -- your wife is right, mmike.

how: flash exposure usually occurs with a fixed shutter speed, say 1/60, asssuming the following (P mode). it looks like you're using P mode, rather than Av (in canon language), where the camera does _not_ meter off the background but instead just concentrates on the flash-lit area. this means the aperture is essentially fixed -- wide open for canon's P mode. anyway, with a higher film speed this P mode exposure will be closer to that required for the ambient light/background, so less flash will be metered out by the camera automatically and the background will appear lighter.

if you were shooting Av mode on the other hand, the film speed would matter, but in a different way: the camera would meter for the background with either speed of film, so you'd get something ridiculous (due to the blur in the non-flash areas) like 1/3, f/2.8 vs. 1/6, f/2.8 while shooting in a dark room.

ok, this wasn't overly coherent. oh well.

 

[laxincubus311]

thanks guys for all the help, i think ill just buy some cheap film and try it out, this weekend while im not racing i hope to take some shots. thanks!

 

[T-Pirate]

Just shoot tons. As a rule of thumb for clear riding shots be at at least 1/500th shutter speed. Its also a little easier to start with black and white film in my opinion. That way you dont have to worry about blowing out the sky as much because it is white anyway. Just play around a ton. I dont shoot film so much, so I am not that great with it, but if you play with your settings a ton, you will get good with it eventually. Just be prepared to get very few good shots for a roll of film. Usually a lot will be bad and a few will turn out.

 

[MikeD]

OK. Light is measured in steps that double or half the amount of light reaching the film. We call these "stops." (Not to be confused with f/stop, which refers specifically to your aperture dial.) One "stop" of light is a doubling or halving of the total light in the scene, regardless of whether it's accomplished via aperture or shutter.

Each click on your shutter speed or aperature dial doubles or halves the light from the previous setting, depending on the direction you turn it. Thus, 1000 on your shutter dial (1/1000th of a second) gives half as much light (one stop less) as 500 (1/500th). 15 (1/15th) gives 4 times as much light (two stops more) as 60 (1/60th).

Likewise, each click on the aperture ring is a doubling or halving of the light...however, unlike shutter speeds, the numbers don't progress by a simple factor of two. Never mind that, and just worry about the clicks. Thus, f/2 gives twice as much light (one stop) as f/2.8, which gives 4x as much light (two stops more) than f/5.6 (ie, the clicks on your aperture likely progress from 2 to 2.8 to 4 to 5.6; each click is one stop of light.) I won't go into the derivation of the actual numbers; it's not important. Note that the aperture becomes PHYSICALLY smaller, letting in less light, as the numbers INCREASE. f/2 is physically much wider than f/22.

ISO film speeds are also a progression of doublings or halvings...50 speed requires half the light of 25 speed, 100 speed requires half the light of 50 speed, 200 requires half that of 100, etc. etc. Film speed can be spoken of in stops...200 speed film is one stop (2x) faster than 100 speed. It requires half the light that 100 speed film would need to record an equivalent image.

So the higher the film speed number, the less light it needs to form an equivalent image. The tradeoff is larger film grain and some lower quality (larger grains of silver halide are more sensitive to light than smaller ones.)

So, if your sunny 16 rule (you should learn to use a light meter, by the way, but sunny 16 is a good baseline) gives you a 1/500 at f/16, you can get equivalent exposures by going to 1/250th at f/22 or 1/1000 at f/11. Same amount of light, different ways of obtaining it. There are also the optical effects (blur/depth of field) associated with the various settings to consider.

Think of the film as a bucket. The size of the bucket (film speed) determines how much water (light) you need. You can fill it with a slow trickle for a long time (slow shutter speed, narrow f/stop) or a full blast for a short time (fast shutter, wide f/stop).

To sum up, if you add one click on the shutter speed, you need to subtract one click on the aperture and vice-versa. Just make sure you're going in the right direction...if you add light (slower shutter speed, lower number on the dial) via the shutter, you need to CLOSE the aperture down (move it to a larger number), and vice versa.

That's the basic idea. It takes a lot to explain this stuff. I really recommend the Upton basic photography text or a community college or high school course for you.

MD

 

[MikeD]

Originally posted by T-Pirate
Just shoot tons. As a rule of thumb for clear riding shots be at at least 1/500th shutter speed. Its also a little easier to start with black and white film in my opinion. That way you dont have to worry about blowing out the sky as much because it is white anyway. Just play around a ton. I dont shoot film so much, so I am not that great with it, but if you play with your settings a ton, you will get good with it eventually. Just be prepared to get very few good shots for a roll of film. Usually a lot will be bad and a few will turn out.

Shooting tons is good. Shooting tons and accepting the fact that many are crappy exposures and not learning why is BAD. It's ok to make mistakes...make plenty, they're good for you...but learn from each and every one. Take notes on exposure settings, take a mini tape recorder if you have to.

Digital sucks for teaching, because people screw with the settings endlessly, previewing the results, and never really know or care why the settings are working.

MD

 

[T-Pirate]

Originally posted by MikeD
Shooting tons is good. Shooting tons and accepting the fact that many are crappy exposures and not learning why is BAD. It's ok to make mistakes...make plenty, they're good for you...but learn from each and every one. Take notes on exposure settings, take a mini tape recorder if you have to.

Digital sucks for teaching, because people screw with the settings endlessly, previewing the results, and never really know or care why the settings are working.

MD

Yup, but there is no way to learn better than to practice. You will get back a roll and say "oh these are a little dark, I was shooting around f8, maybe in similar conditions I should try a more open apeture." You will learn a lot.

 

[The Jinx]

Originally posted by BigMike
sorry, I had to. No, really though, read up on it. The faster the shutter speed, the better your action shots will be. But, if you make the shutter faster, you have to make the aperature bigger. Its a big guess and test game. You;ll get the hang of it, but there is no "real" answer, because it depends on your conditions, and what you want your stuff to come out as.

Best thing to do, shoot the same thing, say... a car driving by a pole, with the same shutter speed and different aperatures, and then differnt shutter speeds with the same aperature. Take note of what you are doing, develop, and see what happens

Good simple explanation!

It's all try and error.

Kodak do have simple book on basic photography and it's very useful

I'm attaching some sample of my pic

aperture 5.6
ev +1.00
focal 18mm
shutter 1/5 sec
handheld

Regards
sbw