[Iridemtb]

Need some monkey help here. I did not screw my pedal in tight enough switching them between bikes, when for a ride, and half my pedal was sticking out of my right (drive-side) shimano slx crank arm.

So I was thinking about using a helicoil. Anyone have any other suggestions? Has anyone done this before? Will it hold up to downhill use? I couldn't find anything on google in the way of a bike specific kit, but I have heard they make one and some bike shops have them, although the few lbs's around here don't.

I called helicoil as well and failed to get in contact.

Sooo... I don't want to buy a new crankset for like $200, help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Edit: Also, does anyone know if they are hollow? And if they are can I still do this?

 

[ridiculous]

damn i was going to say you can get spare left side cranks. but i just noticed the right side.

Do you have the necessary to put the helicoil in? (insert, tap, drill etc)? Could be just as expensive. I would look at used parts to be safe.

 

[essenmeinstuff]

heh luckily crc has the SLX on sale for $138cad at the moment!

My friend did a similar thing, we messed about with larger inserts and helicoils, neither lasted more than a normal trail ride before failing...

Note we did the helicoil first then a insert...

 

[Iridemtb]

Hmmm... So no luck with a helicoil? Yes, it turns out I have access to a proper set of helicoils.

 

[essenmeinstuff]

Hmmm... So no luck with a helicoil? Yes, it turns out I have access to a proper set of helicoils.

Do it, no harm in trying eh!

 

[Iridemtb]

heh luckily crc has the SLX on sale for $138cad at the moment!

My friend did a similar thing, we messed about with larger inserts and helicoils, neither lasted more than a normal trail ride before failing...

Note we did the helicoil first then a insert...

Well that's the thing. That CRC deal may come to pass. Also, when you guys did the helicoil, did you align everything perfectly, etc...?

 

[essenmeinstuff]

I wasn't there for the helicoiling event, so I can't answer that one, i will say dude that did it is a bit of a hack lol.

I'd say try it, it really is the only way to find out if it will work in your situation. It depends on a lot of things like how badly it was striped etc (his was baaaaad). Even if you fail your out some time and a helicoil and then you can still pick up the SLX cranks for the normal price of like 145 or so on CRC

 

[djjohnr]

Helicoils are great if your mid bike trip and need something to keep you going. In my experience they don't last long. Time for a new crank arm/axle.

 

[zebrahum]

Helicoils are great if your mid bike trip and need something to keep you going. In my experience they don't last long. Time for a new crank arm/axle.

I agree, save it for a townie bike but I wouldn't put my ass on the line by trusting a helicoil running DH. Consider it an expensive mistake, but not as expensive as an emergency room trip.

 

[Iridemtb]

Hmmm. I will probably ride them a little more, and then get new ones, afterall there are still half the threads left. I know I know... It sounds sketchy and my pedal might fly off when I land a drop. I will wait till I need to buy other parts too, and get free shipping from crc.

 

[NY_Star]

Locktite the sh!t out of it and run it till they fall out!

 

[cracked]

I did the same thing

Bring to your LBS and have them RE-TAP the thread. Problem solved!

 

[DirtyMike]

I did the same thing

Bring to your LBS and have them RE-TAP the thread. Problem solved!

There is the answer right there. Right side is a standard 9/16 thread, left side is teh reverse thread. You can get the proper tap at any hardware store if you wanted to do it yourself.




IF YOU MUST DO AN INSERT..... Put the Helicoil down...... they suck. Get a Timesert.... Much faster, much stronger, much easier.

 

[Iridemtb]

Ok, since I am quite teh noob at this I have 2 quick questions.

Won't retapping a crank arms pedal threads make the hole to big for the pedal (i.e. I am thinking you have to take away more material to make threads)?

And also, I found a bike shop about 30 minutes away that can do a helicoil for a crank arm, etc... Since they can use a helicoil, does this mean they can retap the crank instead (I am under the impression you would have to retap the crank first before putting a helicoil in.

Also, thank you for the timesert idea, they look much more durable.

 

[blackohio]

re-taping a hole doesnt enlarve it, it simply re-grooves the mushed out threads. stripping threads and ovalizing or opening a hole up are entirely different things.

just retap the crank arm, ride it for the rest of your season then go get you some nice cranks

 

[Iridemtb]

re-taping a hole doesnt enlarve it, it simply re-grooves the mushed out threads. stripping threads and ovalizing or opening a hole up are entirely different things.

just retap the crank arm, ride it for the rest of your season then go get you some nice cranks

Oh ok! Yea I had to do that to my ISCG tabs on my dh bike because I smacked my chain guide so hard the bolts bent in the frame, Gotchya, I will probably give that a shot.

 

[w00dy]

If you're good, you can thread the pedal in from the other side of the arm to roll your existing threads back into shape. Make sure the pedal threads are clean and use lots of lube.

Somebody mentioned picking up a tap. That's not likely. It's a non-standard pitch. You can order taps through bike channels, but they're ~$50.

If you do manage to helicoil it, use the harshest loctite you can find and clean the area with alcohol beforehand. It's useless if there is any oil or grease on the surfaces.

 

[HAB]

If you do manage to helicoil it, use the harshest loctite you can find and clean the area with alcohol beforehand. It's useless if there is any oil or grease on the surfaces.

If you do it right they can be rock solid. Take your time, be careful, and you can get good results with a helicoil.

 

[DirtyMike]

The problem with loctite and Helicoils.... the loctite has a bad habit of bleeding through the coil, not only sealing in the coil, but your bolt/fastener as well. Thats the biggest reason I like Timeserts. Solid insert, does not bleed through if you decide to use Loctite as well, not that it would ever be needed with timeserts. To date I have not had a timesert fail, I stopped using heli's ten years ago.

 

[HAB]

The problem with loctite and Helicoils.... the loctite has a bad habit of bleeding through the coil, not only sealing in the coil, but your bolt/fastener as well. Thats the biggest reason I like Timeserts. Solid insert, does not bleed through if you decide to use Loctite as well, not that it would ever be needed with timeserts. To date I have not had a timesert fail, I stopped using heli's ten years ago.

Yeah, which is why I'll run a tap through it after the loctite is dry. Problem solved.

 

[DirtyMike]

Yeah guess I am spoiled. I dont have the time to wait for loctite to dry with automotive....I forget about cool things like that when you ahve time to leave them over night



hey you coming up for the race weekend after this one?

 

[HAB]

hey you coming up for the race weekend after this one?

I don't know, it's sorta hard for me to plan that far in advance, since I don't know what my work load is going to be like yet. I want to though for sure.


If I do make it out, what class you think I should race?

 

[DirtyMike]

I would say hit up sport class for sure. No fun if you hit Beginner and won with ease.... gota to at least be half a challenge.

 

[DirtyMike]

Ok, back to the original thread topic. I mention the tap, because thats what most people will have..... The proper tool is a thread chaser. Not unlike a tap, but it repairs threads, it doesnt cut them. No sharp edges on a chaser/rethreader. Taps are cheaper, easier to aquire, and do the same job, just take your time , if you cross it, it will cut new threads across the old ones. The chaser/rethreader doesnt cut at all, it pushes the metal back into place.