Yes it can, you need to watch what types of metal you use it on and need to clean it well afterwords. If I use soda I like to hot tank my parts afterwords to make sure all the soda is removed
Once you are set up its great for the reasons I put up top. Your absolutly right though about it being for cleaning, in fact if your removing paint theb DI is not the right tool. You can see in the video even peices of the crap stuck to that trans case doesnt come off absolutly clean.... But the lack of mess on the ground makes it worth it if your using it all the time.
Ideas for old parts for lionel trains. I am not sure of the metal they are made of but its from the 30s and they are called "tainplate" trains. I am trying to get to bare metal. Right now its a mix of my spray paint, rust, and old paint.
Its not a huge deal since they are essentially trash right now, but if i can fix and re-paint them, it can save me a ton of money-which i hope to do.
Ideas for old parts for lionel trains. I am not sure of the metal they are made of but its from the 30s and they are called "tainplate" trains. I am trying to get to bare metal. Right now its a mix of my spray paint, rust, and old paint.
Its not a huge deal since they are essentially trash right now, but if i can fix and re-paint them, it can save me a ton of money-which i hope to do.
Sounds to me like you need to get yourself a basic blasting cabinet, hook it up to a shop vac so you can still see<all available for cheap at harbor freight> and get some general blasting media. I wouldnt use soda on something like the trains you have, just because tis going to be a biotch to get it all out, were as if you use walnutt or glass<hell even a bucket of sand from Glamis or something like that> You can get it reasonably clean with a good ole air nozzle.
You do not want to be sandblasting thin sheet metal of the sort used to make toy trains. Not enough metal there to stand up to it.
Try paint remover for the paint and Naval Jelly/phosphoric acid for rust removal. After rust removal, boiling water rinse, then dry in oven at say 225 F for half an hour, then prime as soon as the metal is cool.
Also be aware that your 'rare/vintage' trains will be nearly without value after your amateur restoration.
Better off leaving them in original condition even if $hitty. Oh, that's probably lead paint too so abrasive removal isn't the best option either.
Also be aware that your 'rare/vintage' trains will be nearly without value after your amateur restoration.
Better off leaving them in original condition even if $hitty. Oh, that's probably lead paint too so abrasive removal isn't the best option either.
Also be aware that your 'rare/vintage' trains will be nearly without value after your amateur restoration.
Better off leaving them in original condition even if $hitty. Oh, that's probably lead paint too so abrasive removal isn't the best option either.
Fully aware, The trains i got were Below TCA-6 grade, which is the bare minimum for any value. I got about TCA2-3 (absolute ****) I dont expect to have any value, I keep all my rare good condition trains original, i use these to run around my christmas tree. Its something to do in the winter when im not out plowing and they look nice in the end-pics of finished projects soon.
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