[GnarlyPirate]

Hey guys,

Yesterday I was on a long ride when near the end of it my crank started making a popping noise every 4 to 12 or so revolutions. This happened after a pretty steep decent down some pretty technical single track but I don't know if that could be related to the problem or not. From what little knowledge about cranks that I have I'm guessing that maybe the bearings need to be replaced? I also don't know what caused this to happen and what could be done to prevent it in the future. I ride a HT and I'm 6'5" and about 240lbs and was wondering if that could be a factor or not.

All input appreciated, thanks.

 

[jonKranked]

If the noise is that infrequent, it could also be your chain or rear derailler. Any chance you could post up some pictures?

 

[GnarlyPirate]

Yeah I could do that, it'll take me a little though. Specifically of the rear derailleur?

 

[jonKranked]

And your cranks too. Its hard to diagnose a drivetrain problem without seeing it.

 

[GnarlyPirate]

Okay. Once I locate my camera I'll head out to the garage.

Some additional info that might be helpful is that my crank didn't appear to be loose at all. When I would look down while riding waiting for the popping noise (which was also accompanied by a slight hesitation) I wasn't able to see anything going on with the rear derailleur when the sound would happen, such as rear derailleur movement, the chain trying to switch chain rings, or anything like that.

 

[GnarlyPirate]

If the noise is that infrequent, it could also be your chain

You are brilliant, jonKranked! I don't know how I missed it before, but it appears to be the chain.

There are two adjoining links that don't want to bend when going through the rear derailleur. I would assume that the pin connecting the two links has been damaged, but I'm not quite sure on the repair for this. Is this repairable or should I just replace the chain?

 

[jonKranked]

They are commonly referred to as "stiff links". The pin probably isn't damaged, its most likely just too tight within the outer plates of the chain. Try pushing/wiggling them side to side to get the pin to loosen up. That is, push against the links in a perpendicular direction to how the chain is supposed to move. Wouldn't hurt to hit that spot with some Tri-Flow (or similar lube). Do NOT use WD-40. Holding the chain with a rag will also keep your hands clean and prevent the chain from digging into your hands.

 

[zebrahum]

If Jon's help doesn't do it, check to see if the link is twisted at all. Look from above and see if any of the links twist. If they do, you can fix it by gently twisting it using a pair of adjustable wrenches.

Also, if you have a chain tool that has two shelves, the closer one to the handle you turn is the "loosening shelf".

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=53

I love park.

 

[jonKranked]

Oooo that reminds me, if you do have a chain tool, sometimes you can use that to try and loosen the links.

 

[GnarlyPirate]

After trying to wiggle the links in all sorts of fashions and hitting it with some lube I still haven't been able to loosen it up at all. I think I'll just have to hit up my lbs and see if I can't just pick up a chain tool and fix it that way. I really want to go riding today so I'll have to figure something out.

Thanks for the help, guys.

 

[jonKranked]

After trying to wiggle the links in all sorts of fashions and hitting it with some lube I still haven't been able to loosen it up at all. I think I'll just have to hit up my lbs and see if I can't just pick up a chain tool and fix it that way. I really want to go riding today so I'll have to figure something out.

Thanks for the help, guys.

Get a chain tool and a quick link - if it fits your chain. They are great, and prevent you from getting a stiff link when installing a chain.

 

[zebrahum]

If it's that stiff, it may be time to get a chain. But only if your chain isn't old. Have your shop check the stretch and recommend if putting a new chain on will work with your current parts. Old stretched chains will wear out drivetrain parts and cause some major problems when used with a new chain.

 

[GnarlyPirate]

I ended up buying a chain breaker that seemed to do the trick after a little bit of fuss. My chain isn't very old, maybe about three years or so, and has really only seen action this year because I had no rear wheel for so long.

I do think I should take my bike in for a tune up though seeing as how it has been a while, and obviously for the value of what the bike mechanic would have to say.

I've since moved from the town where I purchased my bike and my new closer LBS isn't a retailer of Cannondale but they are a bit cheaper than my old LBS. Do you think I would be able to trust that I'd get the same quality of service at new LBS that doesn't sell my brand compared to the other LBS that does?

 

[JRogers]

I've since moved from the town where I purchased my bike and my new closer LBS isn't a retailer of Cannondale but they are a bit cheaper than my old LBS. Do you think I would be able to trust that I'd get the same quality of service at new LBS that doesn't sell my brand compared to the other LBS that does?

Three years is pretty old for a chain, but if it hasn't been ridden much, maybe not.

As far as the LBS question, taking it to the store you bought the bike from is always the best option. If that isn't possible, then it doesn't really matter if the store you are taking it to sells that brand unless you are having a warranty issue or some issue specific to that brand. Basically, if you didn't buy the bike from your LBS then they probably don't care what brand it is and your level of service will be the same.