spacer stack height issue
- Thread starter LordOpie
- Start date
you want the stem to stick up past the steerer a little bit so when the cap bolt is tightened it preloads the headset, done while the stem is loose of course.
Just don't tighten the top cap bolt too much, some have a torque spec but it is worth playing around to get a feel for it so good road side adjustments can be made. It needs to be tight enough to stop the headset from being loose but not too tight or the headset will die a premature death. And don't forget to tighten that while the stem is loose then tighten the stem when you are done.
It shouldn't be catastrauphic, the cap bolt should just preload the bearings, the stem holds everything together. Some weight weenie types will even remove the cap and bolt.
WOW
Only the real freaks who build bikes only to be put on scales. I have never actually seen anyone ride one.WOW
Actually I was riding with T-dog down Gridly once. We were coming down a several thousand foot descent and the bolt on his shock broke. We used my cap bolt to put his bike back together. Both of us made it down to the bottom with fully functional bikes.
If it's a carbon steerer tube though, I prefer to have the steerer tube stick a mm or two out of the top of the stem, then use a spacer on top so the stem doesn't crimp the top of the steerer. That's just on carbon though, and it's not really necessary honestly.
Opie: once the stem is tightened up, the top cap doesn't really do anything, you can remove it without affecting the headset adjustment. I wouldn't recommend it though, as sometimes stuff does come loose, and if you can't adjust it, you're SOL...
The first topcaps were made of plastic if that helps with how tight to snug it down.
Just don't be an ape about it- I know a guy that stripped the threads on the star nut out, so then you have to pound the star nut out and put in another one, unless an idiot mechanic had the same problem and put another new star nut on top of the stripped one- this did happen.
That start nut is just to snug the headset together a little. The spacer has to be above the fork tube (no fork tube showing if looking from the side) to tighten the mechanism. THen just lock the stem down. Poor etiquet is putting spacers above the stem (b/c that shows you're too lazy to cut the fork tube to the right lenght), but I do it all the time because you can always cut down later, you can never add back.
That start nut is just to snug the headset together a little. The spacer has to be above the fork tube (no fork tube showing if looking from the side) to tighten the mechanism. THen just lock the stem down. Poor etiquet is putting spacers above the stem (b/c that shows you're too lazy to cut the fork tube to the right lenght), but I do it all the time because you can always cut down later, you can never add back.
Many of my forks end up living their lives on several different bikes, so there are always a ton of spacers on my bikes...
Edit: MTB forks anyway, the road forks live their life on one bike, usually.
I just put an alloy cap bolt on, saved me 6g, with the seat clamp, and ti stem bolts i saved 32g today. I am not hardcore enough to remove the cap, and star fangled dohicky nor do I know anyone that will.WOW
I have once before, Was down at Fontana, Was a Bet on the top caps functionality, and If a Headlock was nessecary. Rode two days with the top cap in the truck, never came loose. Collected 50 bucks on the bet.