[Rhubarb]

Been having some issues with the highest 4 gears on my SRAM GX drivetrain. Adjusted B-Tension to spec, changed the chain, tried a Shimano SLX Derailleur but still having issues. It reminds me of ghost shifting but not exactly. Had a look this morning and it looks like some wear on the teeth so it seems like the best place to start is changing the cassette (not overly impressed with durability, especially at SRAM prices). I am also not impressed with the GX Mech, but no way I can fork out the kind of money to upgrade to Xwhatever. I can pick up a Shimano XT cassette on sale which will allow me to pick up the needed Micro Spline freehub body and still come out at the price of a new GX cassette. I already have a SLX derailleur so will just need a Shimano chain and shifter. The benefit of going this route is I will then be set up for Shimano and I can benefit from lower priced components that should perform equally well (hopefully better). My only gripe with the SLX Mech is the very short cable housing from the exit hole on the Bronson chainstay to Mech, which results in a kink to the housing. The B-Tension adjustment is also a little odd as I need to wind out the adjust screw fully to get the required chain wrap. I watched a couple of Youtube videos about mixing SRAM and Shimano and the B-Tension adjust was mentioned as a little limited. Looking at the swivel plate that the adjust screw sits on, it is thicker than the GX Mech.

I found 10sp drivetrains a piece of cake to setup, and this is the first time I have been on SRAM, ever. So hoping for some input.

 

[canadmos]

Is your derailleur hanger straight?

 

[Rhubarb]

No crashes or knocks but I am going to pick a new one when the shop opens tomorrow and give it a try to rule out this as a potential issue. The I was given when I purchased the frame (2nd hand) is for another SC frame.

Doing my research, Shimano outperforms SRAM. Santa Cruz also offer full builds with Shimano drivetrains, so it must work. If I go the Shimano route I will install a new gear housing and pay attention to routing and try avoid any kinks developing.

Will start with a new hanger regardless.

Only a couple of days before the rain blows in, which shuts down most of the local freeride/DH trails. This will give me a window to get this shit sorted out. Nothing like putting down power for a sprint and the chain starts tripping out.

 

[Gary]

I'd always go with Shimano for cranks and cassettes.

If cost is an issue and reliability is important have you thought about going back to 11 or 10 speed?
Do you really need the range from tiny little 10t sprockets all the way up to 50t+?

I still run 10speed on a few bikes. An entire 10 speed Deore drivetrain costs less than a SRAM 12speed cassette and it works better.

 

[Jeremy R]

I had been fighting with ghost shifting in two to three gears in the middle of the cassette for months.
It is in an full X01 eagle setup. I kept adjusting it over and over and could not get it to go away. I finally
bought the Park derailleur alignment guide and had it fixed in 5 minutes. It shifts perfect now. Damn hangers.

 

[Rhubarb]

I am still running one 10sp setup, with parts now being moved to a hardtail project. Sticking with 10sp since I have 2 Sunrace cassettes to burn through. I run 34T up front because one of my local laps requires a lot of sprinting. 46T is sufficient for this build.

With 34T up front on the Bronson I would like to stick with 50-51T on the cassette. I just got back from a ride in Wales and found the low gearing helped to reserve energy. I have done the same loop with a 46T but don't recall what chainring I was running. My riding is getting patchy and so my fitness is not where I would like it to be. While I know that I can push 34/46T, I really noticed I had more in the tank throughout the ride. It really helped when I stopped off at the top where a small bike park is built, and I didn't feel so blown out that I couldn't hit the jumps with confidence (there is an option to drive up).

 

[Rhubarb]

I really didn't know hangers were that sensitive, but this is my first 12sp setup.

 

[Gary]

With 34T up front on the Bronson I would like to stick with 50-51T on the cassette

Just to let you know the option is there. 11 speed deore also has an 11-51cassette option

 

[Jm_]

They are and this sounds like a classic alignment issue. I've only bought XO level cassettes and the longevity has been amazing. I tried to use shimano, but the upshifts take too much thumb-force for me (possibly they designed it this way to prevent accidental double shifts with the dual-release).

 

[iRider]

Just wondering, did you check the derailleur bolt? SRAM clutch derailleur bolts seem to back out on me, often just a tiny bit, unless I use blue loctite.

 

[Gary]

Haven't really figured out why. but IME SRAM rear mechs have a bit of a habit of losening at the mounting bolt

 

[iRider]

Haven't really figured out why. but IME SRAM rear mechs have a bit of a habit of losening at the mounting bolt

Also the non clutch SRAM derailleurs? They are fine for me.

 

[slimshady]

Haven't really figured out why. but IME SRAM rear mechs have a bit of a habit of losening at the mounting bolt

Looks like the bolt wears out, as mentioned here:

SRAM NX Eagle long term review – Lots of performance for little money

To tell you about the pros and cons, we've been fortunate enough to test the new SRAM NX Eagle drivetrain over several hundred kilometres.

enduro-mtb.com

 

[Redwood Mulch Chucker]

Haven't really figured out why. but IME SRAM rear mechs have a bit of a habit of losening at the mounting bolt

For sure, to the point they come with loctie installed many times.

I check the SRAM rear der fixing bolt before every few rides, it usually moves 1/4-1/2 turn.

SRAM shifter/der with a Shimano cassette has been on every bike I've had for 10+ years.
Never ever had SRAM cassette that lasted very long, or worked very well (even the pricey ones).
Give me Shimano XT 11-42 for under $100 any day.

And that 12 speed pie plate crap is for the tourists!

 

[Jm_]

Give me Shimano XT

To be fair, it seems the consensus is for SRAM that you need at least X0, to get the one-piece steel cassette. That's all I've ever bought, and not that many, since they last years...
.

 

[SkaredShtles]

<snip>
Give me Shimano XT 11-42 for under $100 any day.

And that 12 speed pie plate crap is for the tourists!

FTS. 42-tooth would be the death of me.

 

[OGRipper]

SRAM derailleurs started loosening right around the time they started selling them with clutches. Blue Loctite works for me. It's also one of the first things to check if shifting goes wonky. Can't tell you how many times I've been asked to check out a bro's bike for shifting issues and their derailleur was loose. It's also not a bad call to add a few drops of lube to the clutch mechanism from time to time, to keep it from binding and also loosening the derailleur itself.

That said, if your derailleur shifts fine across part of the cassette and then goes wonky across another part, it's almost certainly a bent hangar or derailleur, and no amount of fiddling will get it to work perfectly again.

 

[jonKranked]

FTS. 42-tooth would be the death of me.

around here if you need more than a 42t cassette, what you really need is to improve your fitness.

 

[slimshady]

Blue Loctite works for me. It's also one of the first things to check if shifting goes wonky. Can't tell you how many times I've been asked to check out a bro's bike for shifting issues and their derailleur was loose.

I added a homemade Hall Lock to my X01 rear derailleur as explained below, with a shock spacer I had laying around. Have to say the shifting is crisper, and the bike got quieter. The mounting bolt never worked itself loose again.

You have to pay attention when removing/installing the rear wheel though...

 

[SkaredShtles]

around here if you need more than a 42t cassette, what you really need is to improve your fitness.

Well, it means the same out here... but that fitness thing is unlikely on my part.

 

[jonKranked]

Well, it means the same out here... but that fitness thing is unlikely on my part.

granted, if i was routinely doing 1k+ foot climbs i'd have a dinner plate cassette too

 

[SkaredShtles]

granted, if i was routinely doing 1k+ foot climbs i'd have a dinner plate cassette too

1st climb yesterday was 1700, 2nd climb was 800.

 

[jstuhlman]

Yeah, for local stuff here I don't ever get into the two biggest cogs . . . shit in the mountains? Yeah, I rode it before the dinner plates existed, but I'll take 'em now!

 

[Westy]

Pie plates please

 

[SkaredShtles]

Pie plates couldn't even help on this ride:

High Country CO with SS and Full Trucker.

At least, this is the way I remember it. :weee::weee::weee::thumb:

ridemonkey.bikemag.com

 

[Nick]

Shimano drivetrains, fo lyfe.

And pie plates. For large climbs. Kthx.

 

[6thElement]

Pie plates couldn't even help on this ride:

High Country CO with SS and Full Trucker.

At least, this is the way I remember it. :weee::weee::weee::thumb:

ridemonkey.bikemag.com

That's a hike that people are silly enough to take their bikes on.

 

[slyfink]

They are and this sounds like a classic alignment issue. I've only bought XO level cassettes and the longevity has been amazing. I tried to use shimano, but the upshifts take too much thumb-force for me (possibly they designed it this way to prevent accidental double shifts with the dual-release).

I just retired an 11-sp XO cassette. After 5 seasons. Even if the high-end SRAM cassettes are expensive, I find them to be good value for money given their longevity. But you have to get the x-dome ones, that are machined from a single piece of steel. I replaced the largest cog (made of aluminum) half way through it's life. I have another spare one now for my new cassette, so I figure I'll get at least another 4 years out of this current drive-train. I have to start hoarding 11-sp components now!

Haven't really figured out why. but IME SRAM rear mechs have a bit of a habit of losening at the mounting bolt

That has been my experience too.

 

[jonKranked]

I tried to use shimano, but the upshifts take too much thumb-force for me (possibly they designed it this way to prevent accidental double shifts with the dual-release).

perhaps you should try to strengthen your dainty hands

 

[Jm_]

perhaps you should try to strengthen your dainty hands

I’m only up to V6, and that’s only about half the time!

 

[Gary]

I just retired an 11-sp XO cassette. After 5 seasons.

I figure I'll get at least another 4 years out of this current drive-train.

What does this even mean though?
mileage, I understand. But even then. Conditions, shifting style, load and maintenance (cleaning/lubing) all play a huge part in drivetrain life.
Seasons/Years mean nothing really.

 

[Bikael Molton]

Shimano mounting bolts can back out too.

Who else is enjoying XT 12spd cassettes? I'm going that route soon.

 

[Jm_]

What does this even mean though?
mileage, I understand. But even then. Conditions, shifting style, load and maintenance (cleaning/lubing) all play a huge part in drivetrain life.
Seasons/Years mean nothing really.

Well, in my case, I was burning through 1 XT cassette a year, basically the 11-36 that I pictured above. The pictured failure was a freak occurrence that did affect some others, perhaps a bad batch, but not indicative of the general quality, which was usually pretty good. But still, that's 1/yr. Usually 2-3 chain changes in that time period as well. After a year, it would be slip-city, no matter if it was a new chain or not.

So the only thing I changed was to move over to a SRAM X01 cassette. I'm still on my first two, I had actually ordered a third 1195 cassette, but it got stolen from my doorstep. I have 5 years/seasons on the oldest one and recently the top gear did start slipping, so I bought the wolf-tooth or 1up (always get them confused) replacement gear for it. That was towards the beginning of this season. Fresh chain on it and it's still going great. Interestingly, I did run an XTR cassette in the last 5 years. I got it for my RSD fat-bike, which generally sees pretty easy riding comparatively. That pooped out after 2 years, more like partial use though due to the very seasonal nature of it. I replaced it with an XT because it's cheap and I don't want to switch over that hub just yet, but the lifespan from the single-piece steel SRAM cassettes is far and away better IMO. The other 1195 is on my XC race bike, that sees the 100-mile races, 50 miles, local series, etc. That one is at least 4 years old. On the first one, I'm genuinely interested to see how far it can go. Although my riding is a bit more "seasonal" sometimes, I do get the bikes out on vacations/work trips during the winter and of course ride the hell out of them in the summer.

IMO, the engineering of the XD is far superior, moving the splines in next to the hub-shell, one-piece, lighter, doesn't creak, etc.

 

[OGRipper]

What does this even mean though?
mileage, I understand. But even then. Conditions, shifting style, load and maintenance (cleaning/lubing) all play a huge part in drivetrain life.
Seasons/Years mean nothing really.

Certainly true to some extent, but 4 years for any long-standing monkey means more than nothing to me.

I am curious, however, how many chains have been replaced to get that kind of life. I replace my chain pretty often and still only get a couple of seasons on a SRAM cassette. But I don't track data so I guess it's just a worthless discussion. In a discussion forum. Crazy huh?

 

[iRider]

IMO, the engineering of the XD is far superior, moving the splines in next to the hub-shell, one-piece, lighter, doesn't creak, etc.

Until the cassette gets stuck on the freehub. Never happened to me on an HG freehub, bought a used bike with Hope hub with XD driver and a XO cassette and no way I can get it off. Not sure what the dude did to it, but holy fuck!

 

[canadmos]

Until the cassette gets stuck on the freehub. Never happened to me on an HG freehub, bought a used bike with Hope hub with XD driver and a XO cassette and no way I can get it off. Not sure what the dude did to it, but holy fuck!

No grease or anything on threads, I'm guessing. Those threads are small and come slathered with lube from the factory. The XD cassettes also need to be quite tight.

Never a stuck cassette on an HG hub? Every cassette, except on the fat bike, has damaged the splines on my HG hubs and required at least one or two cogs to be pried off eventually. Shimank cassettes ugh.

 

[Gary]

4 years for any long-standing monkey means more than nothing to me.

How the fuck does "4 years" mean ANYTHING to you at all?
I already knew JM has multiple bikes. But I still have zero clue as to where or how much he rides the bike he continues to describe cassette wear on using TIME as his measure. And now that I know he doesn't even ride that bike all year round it's utterly fucking pointless. Baffling infact

 

[jstuhlman]

dammit. is thing going to result in the creation of a spreadsheet like the brakes thread? columns for brand/model, mileage, conditions, frequency of chain change, etc . . .

 

[Jm_]

Until the cassette gets stuck on the freehub. Never happened to me on an HG freehub, bought a used bike with Hope hub with XD driver and a XO cassette and no way I can get it off. Not sure what the dude did to it, but holy fuck!

I've heard a few people somehow jammed them on like out of sync with the splines. Seems impossible to me, but somehow something like this happened. On the XC bike, I switch the cassette out between two wheels fairly frequently, no issues doing so.

 

[Jm_]

How the fuck does "4 years" mean ANYTHING to you at all?
I already knew JM has multiple bikes. But I still have zero clue as to where or how much he rides the bike he continues to describe cassette wear on using TIME as his measure. And now that I know he doesn't even ride that bike all year round it's utterly fucking pointless. Baffling infact

I do ride the bike year round...last Xmas I was riding it!