Anyone ride a fork with the Stratos ID Cartridges yet?
Just hoping to get some comments on it, it looks nice.
Just hoping to get some comments on it, it looks nice.
they are available for all stratos forks.Sandwich said:I might get one if they made it for a 99 z1....but they don't
I wonder if they offer them on their own forks- it honestly doesn't looke like it. Stratos needs to come out with some new forks....i like their new website.
How well does it work on a shiver or boxxer? just curious if any of you monkeys have them installed on your forks. What performance boosts did you notice?bighitfsr said:"I wonder if they offer them on their own forks- it honestly doesn't looke like it"
Its an option on the stratos forks.
It cost an extra $250 which is the same price as the kit for all the non-stratos forks.
The stratos' fork chassis and seals are not the greatest anyway (3-pc lowers, heavy, zero offset axle).
If you wanted a ID damped fork I'd throw an ID cart in either a Boxxer Race or a fox talas/vanillia R as they are nice light weight stiff fork chassis with bottom of the range internals (since the stock internals are going to be removed). You may also be able to fit these to a Marz DJ since they are very similar to a Z1.
Anyone know if "Marz Z1" includes the Z150?bighitfsr said:You can currently get them for:
- Stratos forks
- 2002 - 2004 boxxer
- Shiver DC
- Fox Forx
- Marz Z1
- Marz Marathon S
James | Go-Ride said:Does anybody else think it's weird that people would want to replace their Marzocchi guts with Stratos engineering? Maybe if Stratos made a rear shock upgrade kit....
Stratos dropped the price on the ID cartridge upgrade. Its 25% reduction if you send your fork in (a savings of ~ 60 and some change)... but shipping your fork both ways will be around 40 for the lower 48.... not much savings, but might be worth it to have them install it for you while you can sit back & relax.bighitfsr said:"I wonder if they offer them on their own forks- it honestly doesn't looke like it"
Its an option on the stratos forks.
It cost an extra $250 which is the same price as the kit for all the non-stratos forks.
The stratos' fork chassis and seals are not the greatest anyway (3-pc lowers, heavy, zero offset axle).
If you wanted a ID damped fork I'd throw an ID cart in either a Boxxer Race or a fox talas/vanillia R as they are nice light weight stiff fork chassis with bottom of the range internals (since the stock internals are going to be removed). You may also be able to fit these to a Marz DJ since they are very similar to a Z1.
while it might be good competition to the fox terralogic, a sid is already not a super-active fork with it's air-spring, and it's extremely light as well. I don't think it would make much sense because a SID doesn't really bob much at all. On a coil RS psylo or coil black fork, it might be a good idea though...ZeroCool said:Is this something that might be applicable to the SID fork? I know it's not the XC forum, but thought it might make a good upgrade, something to compete with the fox terralogic forks...
0cool
You want to spend $250 on a cartridge for your 5 year old fork?Sandwich said:I might get one if they made it for a 99 z1....but they don't
See i am giving them a second shot here being even willing to try one. Any of their products i have touched up until this point have been absolute garbage. INternals, externals, designs, seals..you name it. If stratos made it, it sucked.E.T. said:IMO Stratos makes awesome fork internals and forks but there "chassis" are somewhat heavy and not as sexy, stiff and light as the "chassis" of the Boxxer. I'll have a full (preliminary) review as soon as I get some ride time on it. You guys will be the first to know.
vWhy not? I think this is why these cartridges are being invented and adapted...give new life to your old fork. Who offers a significant improvement in damper technology besides Manitou and Curnutt/Foes? Marzocchi is good, for damping, but they don't offer a valve setup that significantly improves pedaling.TWISTED said:You want to spend $250 on a cartridge for your 5 year old fork?
I'm happy with mine too. How much oil do you run in your damper leg? I run 125 cc's of 5wt, and 75cc of 5wt in the spring leg. If i just run the spring leg with slick honey it makes some ugly noises, so i just suck it up and add a ~100g'sssaddict said:Well, I don't know what it's worth but I'm damn happy with my Mojo kit for my boxxer.
With one yellow spring, 20w in the damper let, and lube in the other. Its lighter than hell and the perfect race fork. I can run 10-15w for faster courses or if I'm not bottoming it, so I can get full travel.
My only problem is I still need new legs and seals as I'm still running a '01 fork and the bushing and legs have alot of wear on them.
I will constantly question the need for anti-pedalbob features on forks. I just rode 20-odd kilometres of paved surfaces on a SuperT equipped bike, and not once did fork movement bother me. Sure, it does move around a bit, but only when pedalling with sloppy style. To me, it just seems like a bit of a gimmick for most riding styles.Sandwich said:Marzocchi is good, for damping, but they don't offer a valve setup that significantly improves pedaling.
is the inertia valve similar to platform valving (I was under the influence that it was)? In which case I have to ask, why does anybody buy a Fifth Element or Curnutt shock? Why does anybody ride a Manitou Swinger over say, an Avalanche, which may offer superior damping but no SPV?Transcend said:not for an xc racer it isnt. For DH, itis completely pointless.
And I used to ride my 46lb schwinn S8 on the trail. I had a 2001 MR Dirt Fat4 fork on the front of it. I could, when using proper technique, get the fork not to bob at all on any climb. However, when it came to sprinting, there was no way in hell i could keep up with my friend's hardtail. Not only that, but if you could focus more on putting your effort through the pedals, rather than crouching right in front of the nose of your saddle, you can get up the climbs faster.Rik said:I will constantly question the need for anti-pedalbob features on forks. I just rode 20-odd kilometres of paved surfaces on a SuperT equipped bike, and not once did fork movement bother me. Sure, it does move around a bit, but only when pedalling with sloppy style. To me, it just seems like a bit of a gimmick for most riding styles.
He is talking about forks not shocks.Sandwich said:is the inertia valve similar to platform valving (I was under the influence that it was)? In which case I have to ask, why does anybody buy a Fifth Element or Curnutt shock? Why does anybody ride a Manitou Swinger over say, an Avalanche, which may offer superior damping but no SPV?
Not asking to be an ass, but I was under the impression that these shocks help bikes pedal better, and better pedaling means better setups for steep sections/jumps, faster sprints, and perhaps even has some positive effect on braking? That would be important on MY dh bike.
But you'd compromise the action of the fork to allow for better pedalling? We are talking about racing, where every small thing counts. Including bump absorbtion. Throw some fancy valving in to the equation, and surely something has to be compromised somewhere?Sandwich said:Back to the point, we are talking about DH bikes, and climbs, for the most part, are irrelevant. However, sprints are not. Now if you had to pedal a bike that was bouncing up and down with each pedal stroke (keep in mind we are racing, and not focusing on pedaling), or a bike that would automatically settle to a given point without moving far from it, allowing you to pedal without motion, which would be faster?
My understanding of inertia valving is from the Fox adverts for their "terralogic" system, so it may not be the best understanding. But anyway, the "inertia" name is because it relies on the inertia of a sprung brass mass to control damping. Hit a bump, brass weight moves, oil is allowed to flow. Push down on the bike, and weight stays in its position, shock is locked out. Reviews of it (I'd love to try it myself though) say this sort of system is somewhat unpredictable, I've heard one person tell me you still feel the front side of the bump as the shock is locked out, but it'll be active on the back side of the bump, and then lock out again after a short delay. Sounds like something that'd be noticeable when riding, and the concept of that doesn't do anything for me at all. As I said, I'd rather a predictable feeling bike, and not knowing how the bike will react on each lump and bump doesn't sound like fun to me.Sandwich said:is the inertia valve similar to platform valving (I was under the influence that it was)? In which case I have to ask, why does anybody buy a Fifth Element or Curnutt shock? Why does anybody ride a Manitou Swinger over say, an Avalanche, which may offer superior damping but no SPV?
Very good point...but this is downhill racing we are talking about. Performance of your bike is a VERY big factor of how fast you can go. Especially anything related to suspension, rolling resistance, efficient pedaling, and braking. Something as simple as a proper working powerful brakeset can make a huge reduction in arm pump and make you able to go that much faster especialliy when the courses are long and rough (Idaho, NorthStar, Fort Bill). The whole idea with the ID cartridge is to be the most efficient fork and to provide high quality damping/ bump absorbtion at the same time. I talked to Mike, one of the stratos tech guys and he said that they can set up the inertia valve to open up on as small as a half inch tall bump (this is how I'm getting mine set up). IMO if you need your fork to work on a bump smaller than this then you're wack. That's what you're tires are for, eliminating high frequency vibrations from very small bumps and keeping the knobbies biting. Believe me I am very critical when it comes to reviewing things and if it doesn't perform better than what's out there you will know. The biggest thing that I will be testing it for is its consistincy and ability to suck up bumps. If I notice any hesitation/ wacky fork action I will let you know. I'm very curious to see what it does over jumps...Rik said:Since we're racing, and worried about all the small things, wouldn't a bit of training for pedalling style/technique pay off as much as component selection? I say that coming from a road/track background, where the focus was on the rider, not the machine.
E.T. said:Very good point...but this is downhill racing we are talking about. Performance of your bike is a VERY big factor of how fast you can go. Especially anything related to suspension, rolling resistance, efficient pedaling, and braking. Something as simple as a proper working powerful brakeset can make a huge reduction in arm pump and make you able to go that much faster especialliy when the courses are long and rough (Idaho, NorthStar, Fort Bill). The whole idea with the ID cartridge is to be the most efficient fork and to provide high quality damping/ bump absorbtion at the same time. I talked to Mike, one of the stratos tech guys and he said that they can set up the inertia valve to open up on as small as a half inch tall bump (this is how I'm getting mine set up). IMO if you need your fork to work on a bump smaller than this then you're wack. That's what you're tires are for, eliminating high frequency vibrations from very small bumps and keeping the knobbies biting. Believe me I am very critical when it comes to reviewing things and if it doesn't perform better than what's out there you will know. The biggest thing that I will be testing it for is its consistincy and ability to suck up bumps. If I notice any hesitation/ wacky fork action I will let you know. I'm very curious to see what it does over jumps...
METAL FATIGUE.Sandwich said:vWhy not? I think this is why these cartridges are being invented and adapted...give new life to your old fork. Who offers a significant improvement in damper technology besides Manitou and Curnutt/Foes? Marzocchi is good, for damping, but they don't offer a valve setup that significantly improves pedaling.
What should I do, buy a new Z1 and have it converted? I don't have that kind of money, do you? I'm certainly not going to buy a stratos, and I don't have the money to get a Sherman with SPV. The Minute is not quite what I want, and white bros doesn't offer a good single crown. I'm not satisfied with the performance of the Z1, so I don't see a very good reason to dump all that money on an improved version of the same fork. I already have the fork installed, have the disk adaptors, and have the steerer cut to the proper length.
Why would you want to convert a boxxer? My guess is the same reasons I want to convert my 5 year old fork.