[surfinguru]

Ok, so I just got the new bike. Was going to swap headsets to my Chris King, but the upper crown bolt on the slider won't budge at all! (Me thinks a little too much loc-tite was used... )

Bolt head strips out.

Tried to notch the bolt head using a dremel so I could use a really big flathead screwdriver to get the bolt out.

Ended up breakingthe blade on the screwdriver.

No harm has been done to the upper crown, but I'm at a bit of a loss as to how I'm gonna get the bolt out now. HELP!!

 

[big_lew]

Just heat the area a little with a torch (loctite will melt) and use another screwdriver

 

[surfinguru]

Tried that too. Still won't budge. I did talk to a guy over at Answer regarding the issue and he told me that if I can't get the screw out without screwing up the upper crown, they'll shoot me a replacement at no charge.

Don't want to start rumors or spread unneccesary concern, but let's just say he sounded like it wasn't the first time he's heard of the issue.

At least it's still rideable for my nice long 5 day weekend. I'll deal with it next week. If anybody has any other suggestions, I'd be glad to hear 'em.

 

[big_lew]

Well since he offered to give you a new one, just drillout the head of bolt, removing the threads, well i guess you don't need to if he's sporting you a new one.

 

[Rabie]

Originally posted by big_lew
Well since he offered to give you a new one, just drillout the head of bolt, removing the threads, well i guess you don't need to if he's sporting you a new one.

Chances are this won't work because the clamp is still a single piece, so once the head is drilled off, the threads will remain recessed. I had the same problem with my Slider, and managed to get the stripped bolt out by jamming a Standard size hex key that was a bit larger than the stock metric into the bolt head. Since you've notched it, though, this may not work either. You can try a small left-hand drill bit, or easy-out also. In any case, once the problem is resolved, it's only a couple dollars to replace all the clamp and pinch bolts with larger bolt-head stainless ones. The stock bolts are clearly retarded.

 

[surfinguru]

Well, I managed to get all the other bolts to come out. Now it's just down to the bad one. I think I'll try hammering in an oversized standard hex key before anything else. If that fails, I'm just gonna drill out the screw and get the replacement crown.

FWIW, the guy over at Answer admitted that they were looking at the screw issues. What ever metal they are using is as soft as silly putty. Guess it's time for a run to Orchard for some better screws.

 

[Repack]

Originally posted by surfinguru
Well, I managed to get all the other bolts to come out. Now it's just down to the bad one. I think I'll try hammering in an oversized standard hex key before anything else. If that fails, I'm just gonna drill out the screw and get the replacement crown.

FWIW, the guy over at Answer admitted that they were looking at the screw issues. What ever metal they are using is as soft as silly putty. Guess it's time for a run to Orchard for some better screws.

Just go ahead and drill it. Most seized bolts that are not rust/corrosion related are caused by friction between the bolt head and part. Drilling will relieve the pressure, and the bolt should come right out. And if it doesn't, there's always that new crown.

 

[surfinguru]

Originally posted by surfinguru
(Me thinks a little too much loc-tite was used... )

Ok, just want to set the record straight here:

I spoke with Mike at Richards Cycles today, (they're the place that sold me the bike, great service by the way, thanks guys!) and he assured me they didn't use loc-tite on the fork. After speaking with Answer/Manitou, it's clear that this is a known problem/issue. They're using really soft aluminum bolts, which when torqued down, become so locked into place by the steel that the screw won't come out.

So, and I can only say this for the Slider that I have, but do yourself a favor and get some stainless steel bolts as suggested by Rabie.

out....