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Stripping paint of frame

Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by kgbdhbiker, Feb 18, 2013.

  1. kgbdhbiker

    kgbdhbiker Chimp

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    Hi,

    Maybe this has been covered recently - but I am just checking for updates.

    I have a new Aluminum frame I want to strip the paint off. I love the frame - HATE the paint (yes silly I know).

    So once all the headset cups and pivot bearings and stuff removed - what is the best process to remove the paint. I don't mind paying a bit to take it to a paint shop, but what is the best way?

    Thanks
     

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  2. jonKranked

    jonKranked Press Button, Receive Stupid

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    brand new frame or new to you? because stripping the paint voids the warranty for many manufacturers.
     
  3. kgbdhbiker

    kgbdhbiker Chimp

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    Yeah its new. I know it voids the warranty, but I am ok with that. I was given it - and have ties to the company so no worries in that regard. Just hate the color... Will leave it raw or maybe have it painted some normal color and put manufacturer stickers back on.
     
  4. jonKranked

    jonKranked Press Button, Receive Stupid

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    In that case... aircraft stripper.


    (I always throw the warranty part out as a disclaimer)
     
  5. dropmachine

    dropmachine Turbo Monkey

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    Get it drunk.
     
  6. ronnyg801

    ronnyg801 Chimp

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    Like jon said, Air craft stripper. Find your local auto body paint supply, a brand named klean strip makes some good stuff, you will probably need a quart. get some cheap throw away brushes(+-$1ea) there, some thick gloves(+-$10) for the job, possibly a disposable respirator(>$20) and a thick garbage bag.

    You dont NEED all this stuff but it will keep you safe from fumes and chemical burns.

    Preferably do this outside or in a very well ventilated area, this stuff is POTENT. Cut the garbage bag so it folds open. Place parts on half the bag, apply stripper liberally with brush, pay close attention to the nooks and tight areas. they seem to hold in to paint and powder coat the best. Make sure the parts are covered thoroughly with the stripper, fold the other half of the bag back over the parts ASAP. I usually check back in 20 minutes, see the parts or areas that havent "taken" as well and reapply. I usually have to do the entire process twice to get it as raw as I like.

    I just realized I wrote all this and it is listed on their website more less. haha

    I work for a paint supply house. these should be pretty close prices. You can find this stuff at Walmart, Autozone etc but it is often more expensive than a paint supply.

    http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=33&prodid=136

    read this!
    http://www.wmbarr.com/ProductFiles/Aircraft TDS for US 9 25 09.pdf
     
  7. thad

    thad Monkey

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    Just take it to the powder coater and let them do it. Won't change the price. $100 is a good price for strip and powder. Make sure you are clear about what needs to be plugged and masked. Most shops dip anyway, regardless if you strip it first, to prep for powder. And hit with the media blaster to give slight texture so powder sticks better.
    Spending $20 on stripper, $10 on wire brush & scotch brite pads, $20 for good rubber gloves, and $30 on a decent respirator, and huffing gnarly fumes for hours is a total waste of money.
     
    #7 -   Feb 19, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2013
  8. Sandwich

    Sandwich Pig my fish!
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    http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...ord=paint+stripper&storeId=10051#.USO2kmd41hx

    Wear RUBBER LATEX GLOVES not nitrile. Nitrile WILL MELT when mixed with paint stripper. Latex will not. Dish gloves were sufficient in my experience.

    You will likely need two cans, maybe more. Don't get the natural, citrus based stuff. Sorry nature, but it doesn't work nearly as well (basically at all). I didn't use a respirator, but I worked outside in the yard. You will need a couple of scrubbers, the brillo pad type deals held up well. If you apply it liberally, the paint will fall right off and a little blast with a hose will completely neutralize it.

    I stripped my Sunday this way and it came out very clean. The finish held up well with no corrosion over half a year or so.
     
  9. Freeridin'

    Freeridin' Monkey

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    I've used aircraft stripper on a Specialized frame, not worth it...lots of wire brushing and chemical burns.

    Recently I used Citristrip on powder coated white Stan's rims, totally worth it. Did it in my 7'x7' laundry room, little ventilation, no chemical burns, fell right off.

    Honesty, I'd like to think that the hard chemicals would work better, but that's not what I've found. I'd recommend CitriStrip.
     
  10. Sandwich

    Sandwich Pig my fish!
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    Citristrip was exactly what I was talking about. It did NOT work for the powdercoat on my Ironhorse, it was exactly the opposite of your experience.

    might be something with the powdercoat/construction of frames? The IHs were pretty poorly produced, I found bondo underneath.
     
  11. kgbdhbiker

    kgbdhbiker Chimp

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    Thanks everyone. I will try this. Probably do it myself first, but if it doesn't work will take it to a paint shop like mentioned by 'thad'.
    I think I am going to see what it looks like just 'raw'. I assume polishing is needed - which is fine, but what about 'clearcoating' or something?
    Once is it stripped as described above - what is next? Polishing I assume (hard labour for sure) but probably not to complex - but then what?
    Thanks
     
  12. sunringlerider

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    Just my two cents.
    Assuming that it is powder coat you are trying to remove, I have had good luck with gasket removal chemicals. Permatex makes a good product, but there are many others that work well.
    I have a hotwater pressure washer that really takes the paint off too after applying the stripper, so unless you have a Hotsy, I would recommend taking it to a car was to clean the frame up after stripping.
     
  13. dfinn

    dfinn Turbo Monkey

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    I actually started in on this tonight on my '09 SX Trail. I picked up some of the aircraft stripper. So far, it's certainly not as easy as just spraying the crap on and watching the paint fall off. I think I'm on my 3rd coat so far. Gone through half a can already and I haven't even gotten to the main triangle yet.
     
  14. dfinn

    dfinn Turbo Monkey

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    No clearcoat?
     
  15. Sonic Reducer

    Sonic Reducer Monkey

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    screw kleen strip. that stuff has always taken me several tries, nasty to work with, and always leaves flecks of paint in really hard to reach places. I've used it a LOT in the past, stripped motorcycle frames, tanks, etc. last time I stripped a bike frame I took it to the powdercoating shop and had them sandblast it. if the shop is worth a sh1t they will have a chemical dip tank too for things that can't be blasted. that way you can have your clean bare aluminum and not a matte sandblasted look. i think I paid $40 to have a sunday dipped? forget trying to strip all the nooks and crannies on that thing. considering it takes several hours plus a few bucks for the kleen strip you are money ahead to have it done by a pro IMHO.
     
    #15 -   Feb 22, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2013
  16. 0110-M-P

    0110-M-P Monkey

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    I used aircraft stripper on my old Intense Uzzi VPX, it worked great, but I found that a pressure washer was a necessity. Spray it on, let it sit/bubble for like 30 minutes, pressure wash paint off. I still never got it perfect though...there were a couple of spots in the crevices of welds that just wouldn't come off.

    Before

    IMG_20110823_192658.jpg

    Paint Bubbling

    IMG_20110915_181953.jpg

    After

    uzzi_clean.jpg
     
  17. HardtailHack

    HardtailHack used an iron once

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    If you do use stripper make sure you flush the frame out or small amounts can sit inside the frame and slowly eat the aluminium, some older cars can rust after being painted as the stripper creeps between two layers of steel and slowly eats the metal.

    I stripped a frame with a sand blaster and a Wurth abrasive air tool, I have also used Citristrip without a drama.
    I have never had any luck with latex gloves and paint stripper, found it ate them very quickly and it would seep through thinner nitrile gloves slowly giving your hands a weird burning feeling.

    Oh for the had to get bits spray on gasket stripper seems to work well, decent stuff is formulated so it won't attack aluminium, the Wurth stuff works great.
     
  18. Sandwich

    Sandwich Pig my fish!
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    After about six races/a season of riding:


    No clearcoat. Just kleenstrip in a spray can (2 cans), a copper scrubby pad, and a little citristrip to try to get some hidden bits clean. I sandpapered it a little to try to attempt to polish it, but it was waaaaay too much work for a downhill bike.

    I used rubber gloves like these, which did not dissolve, or dissolved slowly enough that it wasn't noticeable,


    after using nitrile gloves like these that dissolved almost immediately.


    I did not have a pressure washer, but did have a hose with a sprayer. My bike was an 08 Sunday WC.
     
  19. boogenman

    boogenman Turbo Monkey

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    I'm with Thad, take to a powder coater if that is available to you. The local shop here blasts the frames with a media made of ground walnut shells(or some other nut). I think he stripped and re coated my buddies frame for $150
     
  20. dfinn

    dfinn Turbo Monkey

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    I've given up with the aircraft stripper and am gonna take mine to a local soda blaster. I'm not sure yet if I'll do this or not but for a little bit more he offered to put clear powder coat on it.
     
  21. Sandwich

    Sandwich Pig my fish!
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    If you can afford it, then I'd say go for it. My goal was to change the look of my frame for minimal shekels. Cost me about $12 in real stripper, and another $6 in stripper that didn't work.

    I would have loved to get a fresh powder job on it and make it less ugly....just didn't want to invest $150 into a frame that I didn't love.
     
  22. W4S

    W4S Turbo Monkey

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    Chemical strip and powder coat, $120.

    No new info, just wanted a reason to post my ENDURO. ENDURO!!!


     
  23. LOOnatic

    LOOnatic Turbo Monkey

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    My buddy wants to strip the paint of the front triangle of his DHR but has a polished swingarm. Any advice on how to make the front and rear match?
    IE, how to scuff the polished swingarm just enough to match raw aluminum?
     
  24. Hack On Wheels

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    If I'm not mistaken, the swingarm just has a clearcoat on it. I'd say just strip the whole frame, front and rear.

    Edit: Right, I guess that won't change the fact that it's polished under the clearcoat... To get it uniform, you might have to do the same treatment over the whole frame, whether that is steel wool, a scotchbrite pad, or something else. Personally, I'd leave it to oxidize for a bit before trying to even out the appearance.

    I'd be interested to hear how it goes; I'm looking to do the same for my DHR... just haven't done it yet because I'm lazy and don't want to remove the bearings.
     
  25. dfinn

    dfinn Turbo Monkey

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    I think I'd be about $40 into the stripper at the rate that it's going, used most of a can so far on the rear triangle and it's not even close to done. Maybe I'm doing it wrong or maybe this sx trail has better pain than that IH?
     
  26. rockofullr

    rockofullr confused

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    Read this thread title as "Stripper Paint of Fame"

    That is all, carry on.
     
  27. Freeridin'

    Freeridin' Monkey

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    Yep, my experience exactly.

    Give CitriStrip a try. Worked like magic on Stan's powder coated rims.
    Slop it on, stick frame in a big trash bag or two, keep the bagged frame in a warm area overnight....Presto!