OK, I'm going to preface this by admitting that I'm opening myself up to some award for the dumbest question ever posted on the DH board but here goes:
I'm looking to do some weight-shaving this winter on my 303R and really want to replace the stock spring on my RC4 with a ti spring. It's 9.5x3 shock, takes a 3/3.25-stroke spring with an approx. 6.5" free length; and I'm running a 400# spring now. Yes, I KNOW an RCS or similar is the way to go - - I'll get a proper 1.38 ID and it will be wound perfectly for my DHX. But, dang, it's darned near $300 no matter how I cut it and - - well - - it's my sticking point for now.
Now here's where the dumb question comes in: I found a Manitou ti spring (36mm, or 1.41", ID) for just a touch over $100 - - a 3.5x400#, which puts its free length at 7.5". There's room on the shock body to allow for maybe a 7 or 7¼" fee length but 7.5 is just pushing it too much. Plus there's the issue of possible slop from the extra ID clearance.
So, what I'd like to know is . . . would it be an impossible task to shorten it - - in other words, pick a spot in the windings and reclose a new end (with some judicious bench vise and big-ass adjustable wrench work)and grind a new flat on the foreshortened new closed end? My concerns are how malleable ti is to do some 'shade-tree' home shop cold bending and if I could get the winding closed enough to create a good flat end. As far as grinding the end, I think I have access to a lathe to do it if I had to; but am of the feeling that a keen eye, a milled surface and a try-square, together with my trusty my belt sander, I could accomplish it that way.
On top of that, I'm also aware that shortening a spring increases its rate but have no yardstick for knowing how much that would be when losing 7-10% overall length from a 400# spring.
Talk me out of a $100 "experiment."
I'm looking to do some weight-shaving this winter on my 303R and really want to replace the stock spring on my RC4 with a ti spring. It's 9.5x3 shock, takes a 3/3.25-stroke spring with an approx. 6.5" free length; and I'm running a 400# spring now. Yes, I KNOW an RCS or similar is the way to go - - I'll get a proper 1.38 ID and it will be wound perfectly for my DHX. But, dang, it's darned near $300 no matter how I cut it and - - well - - it's my sticking point for now.
Now here's where the dumb question comes in: I found a Manitou ti spring (36mm, or 1.41", ID) for just a touch over $100 - - a 3.5x400#, which puts its free length at 7.5". There's room on the shock body to allow for maybe a 7 or 7¼" fee length but 7.5 is just pushing it too much. Plus there's the issue of possible slop from the extra ID clearance.
So, what I'd like to know is . . . would it be an impossible task to shorten it - - in other words, pick a spot in the windings and reclose a new end (with some judicious bench vise and big-ass adjustable wrench work)and grind a new flat on the foreshortened new closed end? My concerns are how malleable ti is to do some 'shade-tree' home shop cold bending and if I could get the winding closed enough to create a good flat end. As far as grinding the end, I think I have access to a lathe to do it if I had to; but am of the feeling that a keen eye, a milled surface and a try-square, together with my trusty my belt sander, I could accomplish it that way.
On top of that, I'm also aware that shortening a spring increases its rate but have no yardstick for knowing how much that would be when losing 7-10% overall length from a 400# spring.
Talk me out of a $100 "experiment."
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