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Surfmonkey...

Kevin

Kevin

Turbo Monkey
Sep 6, 2004
4,540
1,007
In Holland sticking my finger in a dike...
As the title says... Some of you will know and some of you may not...
About 4 months ago i moved from boring wintertime Holland to a small island in the carribean.
Weve been getting a fair amount of swell lately here in Bocas.
which means world class reef breaks and all around good surfing for miles.
Ive never really read anything about any surf monkeys on these boards, but i know there must be plenty of you in the water, monkeys live all over the world right?
So... Whos surfing. What do you surf and where do you surf it??

Just curious as im getting more and more into the game... :)

Photos and videos are welcome!
 
Pesqueeb

Pesqueeb

bicycle in airplane hangar
Feb 2, 2007
41,469
18,729
Riding the baggage carousel.
When I lived on the Central Coast of Cali I surfed, or at least made it to the beach, damn near every day. I even surfed for a while when I moved to Oregon even though the beach was an almost 2 hour drive and the water was a lot colder. Not a lot of surfing here in Colorado, actually the reason I got back into mountain biking. I do miss it.
 
stoney

stoney

Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde
Jul 26, 2006
21,972
7,823
Colorado
I grew up 10min from the beach in Orange County, CA. I was within 10 min of San Onofre, San Clemente, and Doheny. 20 min from Huntington Beach and all the breaks there. I used to skate down to the beach in the morning for dawn patrol and have a buddy pick me up to go to school. I was the guy showing up to school in wet board shorts smelling of salt water. It was an awesome lifestyle.

The day before I left for college though was the day I stopped surfing. I didn't check the surf report because it was mid-August and there shouldn't have been much of a swell. I took my long board out and saw what looked like an 8-10ft swell. I just started paddling out the channel, no biggie, when the set came in. It was an 8-10ft day with a 12-14ft set. I never paddled so hard in my life to clear the first wave of the set. Right when I crested it, I was sucked over the falls backwards. I got pounded hard enough that my 12ft leash snapped and I was held down for 2 waves.

I've gone surfing three times since then. I was never able to get back my comfort level to drop in, even on small waves. My biggest fear in life has always been drowning, and I got damn close there.
 
stevew

stevew

resident influencer
Sep 21, 2001
41,063
10,016
i've come close to drowning so i guess i'll never surf.
 
jimmydean

jimmydean

The Official Meat of Ridemonkey
Sep 10, 2001
42,795
14,880
Portland, OR
Pesqueeb said:
I even surfed for a while when I moved to Oregon even though the beach was an almost 2 hour drive and the water was a lot colder. I do miss it.
Click to expand...
I grew up making trips to Santa Cruz on the weekends to surf and spent every summer surfing SoCal beaches until I moved here in '93.

I tried to surf in Oregon, I was teh disappoint %.
 
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