[GoodbyePorkPie]

The world cup is so much easier to tune. air pressure FTW!

Have ridden the older WC [air] pre 35mm ver and I currently have a 2010v.2 Team and love it, I prefer coil myself.

As to easier to Tune Zark if ya can't tune a Team, then these people shouldn't have a DH bike, with 2 basic tools its easy to swap out the spring, as easy as getting ya shock pump undoing a valve and adding air!

As to feel of either I did like the WC for the limited time I had on it, personally when buying my own components though, I'm not going to spend the extra on a WC for my hack skills.

I ya a pro then I guess it comes down to who's doing what for you, and if ya prefer coil or air.

Coil FTW for me though.

 

[GoodbyePorkPie]

My 2010v.2 Team setup

I'm around 220lbs all geared up.

I started with the stiff spring and found it too stiff and could not bottom fork either, rec SR in manual!

I knew this before I started but I wanted to still try it, also you could not compensate with LSC/HSC LSR/HSR or drop stop.

Cutting the bottom out drop stpp until you've done the next step to me is counter productive!

Drop spring at least one rate rec for your weight in the Sram Boxxer Team Manual. Rest all adj and start again.

I run the std spring now and can bottom out my fork fully, similar to Woos setup, I can dial in my adj to suit my ride needs which was almost impossible using the stiff spring.

Also check the spacing from the top of the upper tube measure with a ruler from the top of the spring see if it is within the tolerances in ya RS manual, i not enough remove a spacer [black plastic pre load rings spacers. Min at least 14mm, if not between 14-16mm add pre load spacers, if this distance is greater it can cause up and down play, and make that annoying knocking noise, the spring could bind in the upper tube and do some damage.

It amazes me how often a fork gets serviced [@ LBS or PIP] and this basic thing is ignored!

With the fluid supplied if ya got some, V2s should have sorted this, e.g ones with the red motion control sticker on the lower left crown.
Use this as a break in only fluid, replace when fork is broken in, use a high quality [be cheaper too if ya go to a moto store] with Motorex, Bel Ray or Motul fork fluid.

RockShox use 15w in the team this is quite heavy wt compared to say Fox etc, but obviously a different fork and works well for it's design for the middle ground of the mass market!

If you are a lighter guy/gal you could drop the fluid wt maybe 10wt and this will help the dampening/SR fro your weight if Spring rate alone is not available or low enough. if ya go too far either way i tends to affect the rebound settings a lot, not biggie just dial in again. Same but opposite for real heavy weights but poss not req with this Boxxer.

Also then there is oil/fluid volumes, again play to suit.

Note these moto fork fluids are high quality, don't break down like std stuff and remain a lot more consistent.

It might seem like allot but its not pretty std in the motorcycle industry, Ive said it here before I don't know why people get there panties in such a twist about it.

Also as I think Krispy mentioned there's shim stacks and that's another hole aspect unless ya know what ya doing, be good to use they're experience or a tuners as mentioned before.

Do all the above imo before cutting things down or modifying .

This is a technical sport the suspension is one if not the most important aspect to the performance and safety equation on a DH bikes especially, these are made for the masses not custom tuned its impossible wit so many variables.

If you want it to perform then follow some or all of the above, as said std for Moto or even road bikes, even cars can benefit from advanced tuning, but most of us don't take the Suby out at Daytona for the weekends do we!

If ya need help find a good tuner most of what he will do is above and work with you on what you think or believe you need, but be honest the results maybe surprising if ya exaggerate or BS.

That all said Ive been pretty happy with mine to date with a simple drop in spring rate, I'm about to give it her first service and oil volumes and quality fluid same wt for me as I'm happy will apply.

I'd play with shim stacks but for me I don't see the need, like Kidwoo this is one of the best forks Ive ridden, Ive ridden a few 40s not a huge fan, loved my 888s but I'm a fan of how the later RS forks have felt, everyone Ive owned has been stellar from my DJ Argle, Pike, Boxxer etc.

 

[ldw222]

i've never ridden a wc but i think i'll always go with coil and oil over air...peaty does too!

 

[rigidhack]

I recently got a Totem coil and have ridden it a couple of times. I'm coming off of a Lyrik Air, so the internals are the same. There is no question that the coil version is much more supple in the chatter. So much so that it is kind of freaking me out. The Lyrik (which I absolutely love) NEVER felt this smooth, except for when I set it up to be a complete marshmallow for my first ride back after breaking my arm. I can set the coil fork to be much softer without having the dive that I despise so much. I am only a couple of rides in, and I am still playing with the settings, but I have yet to bottom the fork. In fact I think I have only used 160mm of the 180mm available. My conclusion is that this bodes very well for the Boxxer Team that should be arriving shortly for my DH bike.

 

[Zark]

Have ridden the older WC [air] pre 35mm ver and I currently have a 2010v.2 Team and love it, I prefer coil myself.

As to easier to Tune Zark if ya can't tune a Team, then these people shouldn't have a DH bike, with 2 basic tools its easy to swap out the spring, as easy as getting ya shock pump undoing a valve and adding air!

As to feel of either I did like the WC for the limited time I had on it, personally when buying my own components though, I'm not going to spend the extra on a WC for my hack skills.

I ya a pro then I guess it comes down to who's doing what for you, and if ya prefer coil or air.

Coil FTW for me though.

There's more to simplicity than the number of tools, like the number of steps to perform a change. This seems obvious, but since you've annoyed me, I'll spell it out.

List of tools for tuning a WC: shock pump.
List of tools for tuning a Team.: 4mm allen wrench, 24mm socket, rags, slick honey, chop stick (push the dropstop to the bottom of spring)

So the steps:
loosen crown bolt
remove topcap
remove spring
transfer drop stop
grease spring
reinstall top cap
tighten crown bolt

I highlighted rags because that's important, you've got to yank out a greasy spring and move the drop stop to the other spring. That's easy tuning there Trying to push a greasy red elastomer, down a spring, past a greasy spring isolator with greasy hands.. Simplicity itself I tell you. Add doing this on site, at a race maybe?

If that's easier than attaching a shock pump, I'm Elvis mother-Fn-Presley.
Being able to tune your bike in in between runs with a shock pump and a couple dial twists is a huge benefit to a racer. Rock Shock's little glitch in the posted spring rates led to me having to perform the above steps for a while to get the best setting. I'm handy with a wrench and its no big deal for me to do this stuff, but the best riders I know are usually not the best wrenches I know