[IH8Rice]

front hardware is obviously 22x10 right?

CC says all the shocks theyve done, theyve used 30x10 for the front.

 

[Raingauge]

front hardware is obviously 22x10 right?



That's what Evil told me when I wanted to put my Vivid on.

 

[IH8Rice]

front hardware is obviously 22x10 right?



That's what Evil told me when I wanted to put my Vivid on.

i didnt think my measurement calipers were wrong either.

 

[davep]

You do not have the heim joints in that shock do you? I dont think they can make them work with 10mm hardware.

You should be able to find something to work pretty easy until CC gets you the right parts.

 

[Mr Nug]

The hardware on mine was all wrong as well. As davep says, the internal diameter of the CC hardware is too narrow for the evil hardware - game over.

I just used the hardware that came on the bike.

 

[IH8Rice]

You do not have the heim joints in that shock do you? I dont think they can make them work with 10mm hardware.

You should be able to find something to work pretty easy until CC gets you the right parts.

heim joints? the issue im having is the DU bushings are too long as you can see from the picture. the width should be 22mm, not 30mm as it came with.

The hardware on mine was all wrong as well. As davep says, the internal diameter of the CC hardware is too narrow for the evil hardware - game over.

I just used the hardware that came on the bike.

the thru bolts fit tight in the DU busings. what didnt fit for you?

 

[Mr Nug]

heim joints? the issue im having is the DU bushings are too long as you can see from the picture. the width should be 22mm, not 30mm as it came with.

the thru bolts fit tight in the DU busings. what didnt fit for you?

There might be some confusion here.The things that are too long in your pic are reducers... The DU bushings are the little 10mm(ish) long metal/polymer sleeves that provide the interface between the reducers and the shock eyelets.

In this context, heim joints = spherical bearings in the eyelets that cane creek have been know to advertise (think they're slightly different but same concept). As far as I know, these don't get used for DH bikes or bikes with large reducers - possibly due to high-stress-related reliability issues.

My reducers had a 9.6mm internal diameter so didn't fit my shock bolts...

 

[Dogboy]

heim joints? the issue im having is the DU bushings are too long as you can see from the picture. the width should be 22mm, not 30mm as it came with.

Cane Creek uses heim joints (ball and socket-type) reducers instead of a traditional DU bushing on the Double Barrel when the frame allows (6 or 8mm pins that aren't too wide). Otherwise they use a DU bushing setup. IIRC the DB is compatible with Fox/Vivid/Roco hardware.

 

[Mr Nug]

oh I meant to say that you can always cut down the reducers to fit. Recommend that you only do this if you have a vice as if you go too far then they're useless.

I usually cut a few mm less that I need off and sand it the rest of the way so I can be sure it's straight. The metal that cane creek use is really tough though so you'll need an electric tool or a lot of patience!

 

[fro biker]

I finally got round to modifying my old THE fender as well. I thought tyre clearance was a little poor just zapping it to the stays so did a little bit of work with the dremel. Pretty happy with the results. Will see how well it works tomorrow.

Before any says... Yes I know my bike's dirty!

This is great. Thanks for sharing, I will be adding this for 2010. Definitely should have thought of this for 2009 as it was rainy and wet at nearly every race. haha

 

[IH8Rice]

There might be some confusion here.The things that are too long in your pic are reducers... The DU bushings are the little 10mm(ish) long metal/polymer sleeves that provide the interface between the reducers and the shock eyelets.

In this context, heim joints = spherical bearings in the eyelets that cane creek have been know to advertise (think they're slightly different but same concept). As far as I know, these don't get used for DH bikes or bikes with large reducers - possibly due to high-stress-related reliability issues.

My reducers had a 9.6mm internal diameter so didn't fit my shock bolts...

okay, well the reducers are too long then. they are 30mm's and the links in the frame are 22mm's apart.
the inside diameter is fine for me. they fit my 10mm bolts

 

[IH8Rice]

oh I meant to say that you can always cut down the reducers to fit. Recommend that you only do this if you have a vice as if you go too far then they're useless.

I usually cut a few mm less that I need off and sand it the rest of the way so I can be sure it's straight. The metal that cane creek use is really tough though so you'll need an electric tool or a lot of patience!

i just bought a vice, but havent secured it down in order to do the cutting. i have the new reducers coming from them now. ill just push out the old one and use the correct spacers too

 

[Mr Nug]

okay, well the reducers are too long then. they are 30mm's and the links in the frame are 22mm's apart.
the inside diameter is fine for me. they fit my 10mm bolts

Sorry mate, I just read back what I said and it was really patronising! Wasn't intentional...

Hmmm looks I got done there! Mine are useless now as they don't fit the evil and are too big for my XC bike. I was quite impressed with their reducers are well - really low friction compared to the standard fox hardware.

Yeah good call on asking for new ones. It's loads of hassle cutting them down..

 

[IH8Rice]

Sorry mate, I just read back what I said and it was really patronising! Wasn't intentional...

Hmmm looks I got done there! Mine are useless now as they don't fit the evil and are too big for my XC bike. I was quite impressed with their reducers are well - really low friction compared to the standard fox hardware.

Yeah good call on asking for new ones. It's loads of hassle cutting them down..

nah i didnt think you came off bad...our terminology terms got a bit confused, but it seems we are both on the same track.

the reducers are 8mm too long. even wit a vice, i dont have any tools here that can accurately cut down 4mm on each end.

make moar sense?

 

[Mr Nug]

the reducers are 8mm too long. even wit a vice, i dont have any tools here that can accurately cut down 4mm on each end.

make moar sense?

You could cut 8mm off one end and leave the other one as is - would mean you only cut once. Actually cut 6mm off and sand down the last few mms - it's too easy to make a mistake cutting these things.

I've traditionally used a hacksaw. If you can really clamp it down in a vice, it should be ok - even if the vice isn't attached to the bench. In an ideal world, I'd have used a cnc machine to shave the excess off but have not had access to that equipment since my school days (wow I sound old!).

 

[IH8Rice]

You could cut 8mm off one end and leave the other one as is - would mean you only cut once. Actually cut 6mm off and sand down the last few mms - it's too easy to make a mistake cutting these things.

I've traditionally used a hacksaw. If you can really clamp it down in a vice, it should be ok - even if the vice isn't attached to the bench.

yeah, i should have posted when i was sottaly tober.

cutting off one side makes more sense...derr

 

[Udi]

Malcolm must have got confused with the sunday, which runs the 30x10 both ends.

Can he not just send you out the 22mm ones? I've found their service to be pretty tip-top, and surely being in the US would get you faster turnarounds.

I've also had some weird ID hardware turn up with my various CC's (9.6mm was one), no idea what the deal is there.

 

[IH8Rice]

Malcolm must have got confused with the sunday, which runs the 30x10 both ends.

Can he not just send you out the 22mm ones? I've found their service to be pretty tip-top, and surely being in the US would get you faster turnarounds.

I've also had some weird ID hardware turn up with my various CC's (9.6mm was one), no idea what the deal is there.

yep, he's getting the correct sizes to me. one of the reducers is around 9.95mm..or so my digital calipers say. its tight, but still fits

 

[S.K.C.]

2-22-10

Hey everyone!

I've received some questions regarding Revolt completes for 2010. I recently spoke with Gabe over at EVIL and here are the basics:

For 2010 EVIL Bikes will be offering 2 different builds for the Revolt as a complete:

1. LTD. - (basically a Team Replica build)
2. Premium -(Privateer build)

The Premium Build Kit will come with a Boxxer and the LTD. will *most likely* come with a FOX 40. These are complete bikes in the box instead of a frame and fork kit.

Gabe said the completes are about 60 days out -

EDIT: More details to come...

 

[S.K.C.]

OK - here some of the specs for the Premium completes:

Premium
Brakes:
2010 Formula RX w/ 203mm rotors
Drivetrain:
Shifter: 2010 SRAM X.7
Derailleur: 2010 SRAM X.9 short cage
Chain: 2010 SRAM PC-951
Cassette: 2010 SRAM PG-950 (11-28)
Cranks: 2010 FSA Gravity GAP DH, MegaExo, 165mm
Cockpit:
Handlebars: 2010 Gravity Maximus, 25mm rise
Stem: 2010 FSA Gravity Direct Connect DM
Saddle: 2010 WTB Devo Team
Wheels:
Rims: 2010 ALEX Supra 28 (welded)
Hubs: 2010 Formula Disc
Front: 2010 Formula DHL91 110mm x 20mm
Rear: 2010 Formula DHL150 150mm x 12mm
Tires: Maxxis Minion DHF, 3C, 2.5"
Suspension:
Rear Shock: 2010 FOX DHX 4.0
Fork: 2010 Rock Shox Boxxer Team (w/ flat crown)

 

[IH8Rice]

sounds like a heavy build.

 

[S.K.C.]

sounds like a heavy build.

NONSENSE Poopypants!



ALEX Supra28's: 550g
2010 Boxxer: 6.6 lbs.
Formula RX: 351g (per system)

The crankset is a bit on the beefy side as are the handlebars but other than that, I'd say it's a build that comes in at a fairly competitive weight for the pricepoint.

 

[IH8Rice]

bars, cranks, cassette, shock (4.0?? really??)

im sure its to hit a price point tho

 

[S.K.C.]

Absolutley!

Keep in mind this is the Premium build - the LTD which is basically a Team Replica has yet to come...

EDIT: I didn't realize this, but the weight of the cranks on the Premium actually includes the BB, 2 chainrings PLUS a bashguard:

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=13

http://www.sicklines.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/9875

The cranks themselves weigh MUCH less:
http://www.sicklines.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9873
...which puts them in the neighborhood of Race Face Atlas FR and the new SAINTs.

Additionally the DHX 4.0 is actually a bit lighter than a comparable Vivid - Since structurally the DHX 4.0 is 90% similar to a DHX 5.0 for reference I'm using pics of the 5.0 and Vivid 5.1 here:

http://www.sicklines.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=886

http://www.sicklines.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/6589

 

[IH8Rice]

no word on price yet?

 

[S.K.C.]

None that I've heard so far - but I'll ask Gabe.

 

[spocomptonrider]

Can anyone make a size recommendation for me? I am on the fence between a med and small. I rode a friends med around this weekend and it felt a bit long in the top tube for my tastes (arms almost at full extension) but I'm worried the small may be a bit too, well... small.

I'm around 5-8 and have always ridden mediums, but judging from the geo on their site the medium is almost an inch longer than anything I have ridden in the past. The other thing I am worried about is how much stability I will sacrifice with the shorter wheel base of the small.

 

[S.K.C.]

'Compton - have you checked out the first page of this thread? EVERYTHING you could possibly need to know is there including a Size Chart (which is actually the updated version of the production geo).

So - according to that - you fall in the range of a Medium, but I understand how you feel. I was undecided on whether to get a Medium or a Large. After some testing, I decided to go with the Medium and haven't looked back.

As far as your concerns over the reach of a Medium and the stability of a Small - that depends. What length stem was your friend running and what rise? If need be you could go as short as a 28mm DM stem like the shorty Boxxer unit Straitline makes if you want to "pull in" your reach adjustments. Rolling the bars back a few degrees also aids in this - so play around with combinations of the two to see what feels best.

I'm 5'11 and a WB that was barely 45" on my old Sunday felt sketch - but that is my experience and unique to me. I don't know your riding ability or style (Tiger, Crane, Praying Mantis, etc.) but take into consideration I am a bit taller AND I just upgraded my UCI license this year to Cat. 4.5 aka "Semi-Hack" from "Suck" last year... soooo...

My prior experience was coming off an odd custom-geo Sunday that wasn't quite a Small but wasn't quite a Medium. WB was barely 45" and the TT was an inch shorter than my Med. Revolt. It took a bit of getting used to while cornering, but the stability I gained while at speed in a straight line due to the longer WB was a much wanted improvement. Due to the low CoG the bike is pretty flickable when it needs to be and doesn't feel clumsy when you are manuevering tight spots.

Experiment with some different stem lengths if you can and *slightly* rolling the bars back (not TOO much - just a bit beyond vertical back toward you) After that, and taking everything into consideration - I'd say go with what you feel your gut is telling you.

 

[spocomptonrider]

'Compton - have you checked out the first page of this thread? EVERYTHING you could possibly need to know is there including a Size Chart (which is actually the updated version of the production geo).

So - according to that - you fall in the range of a Medium, but I understand how you feel. I was undecided on whether to get a Medium or a Large. After some testing, I decided to go with the Medium and haven't looked back.

As far as your concerns over the reach of a Medium and the stability of a Small - that depends. What length stem was your friend running and what rise? If need be you could go as short as a 28mm DM stem like the shorty Boxxer unit Straitline makes if you want to "pull in" your reach adjustments. Rolling the bars back a few degrees also aids in this - so play around with combinations of the two to see what feels best.

I'm 5'11 and a WB that was barely 45" on my old Sunday felt sketch - but that is my experience and unique to me. I don't know your riding ability or style (Tiger, Crane, Praying Mantis, etc.) but take into consideration I am a bit taller AND I just upgraded my UCI license this year to Cat. 4.5 aka "Semi-Hack" from "Suck" last year... soooo...

My prior experience was coming off an odd custom-geo Sunday that wasn't quite a Small but wasn't quite a Medium. WB was barely 45" and the TT was an inch shorter than my Med. Revolt. It took a bit of getting used to while cornering, but the stability I gained while at speed in a straight line due to the longer WB was a much wanted improvement. Due to the low CoG the bike is pretty flickable when it needs to be and doesn't feel clumsy when you are manuevering tight spots.

Experiment with some different stem lengths if you can and *slightly* rolling the bars back (not TOO much - just a bit beyond vertical back toward you) After that, and taking everything into consideration - I'd say go with what you feel your gut is telling you.

Yeah man I checked the size chart, and was still undecided, thus my post. The medium I rode was setup pretty standard, 50mm stem, 30" sunline's etc. I have ridden a few bikes with sub 50mm stems and am not a fan being even that little bit further behind the front axle, it makes cornering a bit strange imo. As far as slurping the bars out, thats a no go also. Just got word from Kevin at Evil and it looks like I'll be rolling a small.

BTW the wheel base #'s on your geo post on the first page are a little wonky. Small wheel base should be 1126.6 min - 1131.1 max according to the size chart Kevin sent me.

 

[davep]

I got sidetracked earlier before SKC's post, but I was going to make the point that with all of the adjustability of the Evil and its low BB (compared to your V10...there is only 6mm diffference between your med V10 and the Evil) you should be able to raise the fork length and get some more wheelbase as long as you can get used to the slack feel...all without getting the C.O.G and BB high at all.

SKC, you ran a 'shorter than meduim' sunday? I would imagine that would be interesting. I am roughly your height (6' even) and I contemplated a large Sunday. On the meduim, I like either a slightly longer stem (with a 28" - 29" bar), or now a quite wide bar (777mm) with a 50mm stem to gain reach length.

 

[S.K.C.]

Yeah man I checked the size chart, and was still undecided, thus my post. The medium I rode was setup pretty standard, 50mm stem, 30" sunline's etc. I have ridden a few bikes with sub 50mm stems and am not a fan being even that little bit further behind the front axle, it makes cornering a bit strange imo. As far as slurping the bars out, thats a no go also. Just got word from Kevin at Evil and it looks like I'll be rolling a small.

BTW the wheel base #'s on your geo post on the first page are a little wonky. Small wheel base should be 1126.6 min - 1131.1 max according to the size chart Kevin sent me.

Hmmm... the one I posted up was the one Seplavy sent to me a while back and told me that was the official chart for production bikes... hmmm... I'll get a hold of Kevin and see what's up...

Agreed - I'm not a big fan of super short stems either - they just doesn't suit my riding style. Some guys like Minnaar can get used to them and do really well with them however. When he rode for the HRC (Honda) team he had a DM that was practically ZERO reach - pretty nuts but very moto influenced... seeing as it was a Honda bike, this would seem to follow. Personally I roll my bars back just a bit past vertical - but not to the point of it effecting ergonomics.

Glad to hear you got everything sorted!

davep - yeah, it was REALLY weird... I was in need of a crash replacement for the front triangle of my original Sunday (06' gun metal grey Sunday Elite) so I bought an 06' Medium Sunday Factory... at least that's what I thought it was... it was one of the white Factory front triangles with the red lettering on it... since I was coming off a massive 1st. gen Demo 8 (Med.) I didn't think twice about the smaller feel of the new rig and rode it for nearly 2 years. It felt a bit cramped but I can get used to almost anything so when the time came to get a new frame I looked at the Revolt. I started comparing measurements to see what size Revolt I should get and realized that my Sunday "Medium" had some REALLY weird numbers... I had also kept my repaired Medium Sunday Elite front triangle as a spare. When I compared the 2 frames side by side - the TT of the "Medium" Factory was around a half inch shorter than the Med. Elite... but the WB on the Factory just a hair over 45"... SUPER bizarre... those were the 2 measurements that stood out from memory. My best guess is that it's either a frame that got assembled from some incorrectly measured parts OR it was a custom built frame... and the only Sunday rider that it could have possbily fit during the 05' - 06' season was Anka from the short lived Honda/Iron Horse team (Formerly Honda/Turner)... dunno... the only rider I know of that was ever on custom geo frames was Sammy, and that was toward the beginning of the 08' season I believe... maybe DonDon knows, but MAN it was WEIRD. LoL...

 

[mccdh]

I cant wait until my frame comes in. except its taking exceptionally long

 

[chup29]

haha - me too... hopefully i get to touch it before the fontana city national in a month...

 

[spocomptonrider]

Is the florescent yellow happening?

 

[Uncle Cliffy]

S.K.C. Is it mentioned anywhere what Axel to crown figure they went by for the geometry chart?

Is the florescent yellow happening?

Yup! Plus the white, anno black, and anno gunmetal.

 

[Udi]

but MAN it was WEIRD. LoL...

That is pretty strange, maybe you wound up with some sort of one-off frame. I've had 3 medium sunday frames (07/08/09) and they have all measured in identically. The wheelbase on them with 63.5 reducer cups was 46.2" I think, and 45.8" without the cups. The low 46's are bang on for a 5'11 IMO.

 

[S.K.C.]

Compton and Cliffy - I'm not so sure about the "Glowstick Yellow" being offered as a standard color for 2010... Both Vanderhizzle and Stevie got frames in this "one-off" color in 09' but to the best of my knowledge, this isn't a production color... yet.

Cliffy - I do not know what A-C measurement they were using, but I'll ask Gabe tomorrow.

Udi - yeah... it's weird. I measured the Factory frame FOUR times to make sure I wasn't loosing my mind, but - there it was... quite odd. I did pick up that frame toward the beginning of 07' as a piece in the IH inventory from the previous year so... who knows where it came from...

 

[Uncle Cliffy]

Compton and Cliffy - I'm not so sure about the "Glowstick Yellow" being offered as a standard color for 2010... Both Vanderhizzle and Stevie got frames in this "one-off" color in 09' but to the best of my knowledge, this isn't a production color... yet.

Cliffy - I do not know what A-C measurement they were using, but I'll ask Gabe tomorrow.

I chatted with Gabe last week and he said there would be a "bright yellow" color. I hadn't decided on a fork yet, so I forgot to ask about the A to C. The 888 I ordered is around 15mm taller than a boxxer, soooo...

 

[Victor]

Hey S.K.C. , isn't that full build very similar to what the guys from fanatikbikes have in their full build Revolt specs for sale >>premium<< that goes for 4600$ for the white frame and if so then the LTD spec would prolly look something like >>this<< and goes for 5900$ also for the white frame?

 

[IH8Rice]

i have to say that the DELTA links are a major PITA. everything seems to have to be installed a certain way pertaining to the links and shock.

i tried putting my DB in today and had to loosen the main thru bolt for the links and install the top shock mount first...with a little bit of prying and taps of the rubber mallet, i was finally able to get the bolts through.

when the shock isnt it, you can see that the links are just a bit crooked where the front shock mount it.