[spocomptonrider]

i have to say that the DELTA links are a major PITA. everything seems to have to be installed a certain way pertaining to the links and shock.

i tried putting my DB in today and had to loosen the main thru bolt for the links and install the top shock mount first...with a little bit of prying and taps of the rubber mallet, i was finally able to get the bolts through.

when the shock isnt it, you can see that the links are just a bit crooked where the front shock mount it.

Sweet. I'm borderline OCD on cleaning my bike so this will be a fun experience...

No worries though as I won't be seeing mine for "45-60 days" anyhow.

 

[IH8Rice]

Sweet. I'm borderline OCD on cleaning my bike so this will be a fun experience...

No worries though as I won't be seeing mine for "45-60 days" anyhow.

the nooks and crannies in the middle of the frame is a PITA to clean. but a firm toothbrush and some elbow grease it does the trick.

it was a pain trying to figure out what to loosen or what to unscrew to get everything lined up.

 

[S.K.C.]

Victor - that is actually the same as the build I posted here on the other page for the Premium Complete with a few little extras thrown in.

I have been meaning to post up the LTD build sheet so here it is:

LTD Complete:
Brakes:
2010 Formula The ONE w/ 203mm rotors

Drivetrain:
Shifter: 2010 Shimano SAINT Rapid Rise
Derailleur: 2010 Shimano SAINT short cage
Chain: 2010 Shimano CN-HG93
Cassette: 2010 Shimano Ultegra (12-27)
Cranks: 2010 FSA Gravity Light DH, MegaExo, 165mm
Chain Guide: 2010 e.thirteen LG1+

Cockpit:
Handlebars: 2010 FSA Gravity Light, 25mm rise
Stem: 2010 FSA Gravity Direct Connect DM
Saddle: 2010 WTB Devo Team w/ NiCro Rails

Wheels:
Rims: 2010 Mavic DeeMax
Hubs: 2010 Mavic DeeMax
Front: 110mm x 20mm
Rear: 150 150mm x 12mm

Tires: Maxxis Minion DHF, 3C, 2.5"

Suspension:
Rear Shock: 2010 FOX RC4 9.5” x 3.0”
Fork: 2010 FOX SHOX 40 RC2, 203mm TRAVEL W/ TITANIUM COIL SPRING

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Premium Complete:
Brakes:
2010 Formula RX w/ 203mm rotors

Drivetrain:
Shifter: 2010 SRAM X.7
Derailleur: 2010 SRAM X.9 short cage
Chain: 2010 SRAM PC-951
Cassette: 2010 SRAM PG-950 (11-28)
Cranks: 2010 FSA Gravity GAP DH, MegaExo, 165mm
Chain Guide: 2010 e.thirteen LS1 w/ Taco

Cockpit:
Handlebars: 2010 Gravity Maximus, 25mm rise
Stem: 2010 FSA Gravity Direct Connect DM
Saddle: 2010 WTB Devo Team

Wheels:
Rims: 2010 ALEX Supra 28 (welded)
Hubs: 2010 Formula Disc
Front: 2010 Formula DHL91 110mm x 20mm
Rear: 2010 Formula DHL150 150mm x 12mm

Tires: Maxxis Minion DHF, 3C, 2.5"

Suspension:
Rear Shock: 2010 FOX DHX 4.0 9.5" x 3.0"
Fork: 2010 Rock Shox Boxxer Team (w/ flat crown)

I'll put this up on the Front Page over the weekend for easier access - until then - enjoy!

 

[spocomptonrider]

the nooks and crannies in the middle of the frame is a PITA to clean. but a firm toothbrush and some elbow grease it does the trick.

it was a pain trying to figure out what to loosen or what to unscrew to get everything lined up.

Looks good, I'll be curious to know what you think of the CCDB. A little too complex for my set and forget style, but even so it might be nice to have something so tuneable.

 

[IH8Rice]

Looks good, I'll be curious to know what you think of the CCDB. A little too complex for my set and forget style, but even so it might be nice to have something so tuneable.

new 888 should be here Tuesday and the snow is almost gone so hopefully ill be able to give it a rip around the local trails

 

[Uncle Cliffy]

This = The hotness.

 

[Frisco]

I'm very interested in hearing how the CCDB or the Elka change the feel of this bike over the RC4. I actually like the way it rides with the RC4 but am considering experimenting with one of these . I love the idea of a "tuned" shock but am having a little difficulty justifying the dinero. Also, does anyone know the measurements of the bearings on this frame. The bearings connected to the downtube need replacing and I'd like to order some before I take the bike apart again as I just put it back together.

Thanks

 

[IH8Rice]

The bearings connected to the downtube need replacing and I'd like to order some before I take the bike apart again as I just put it back together.

Thanks

i just tossed my old bearings, but the size is written on the bearings themselves. you can get new ones through Evil or you can get upgraded ones from Enduro, which id recommend

 

[S.K.C.]

...this brings up another project I'm working on: I've been planning on listing all of the bearing sizes and their locations on the frame.

Should have this up in another week or so.

 

[IH8Rice]

main pivot bearing is a Enduro 6806LLUMAX.
theres only 4 bearings on the frame. 2 main pivot and 2 for the link located on the downtube (cant remember the size)

the link bearings wear extremely fast, especially compared to the main pivot bearings

 

[Frisco]

Thanks. It's the link bearings that need replacing but I wanted to order them all at once so I'd have spares of both. I'm definitely going to order them from Enduro.

 

[zdubyadubya]

what are the extra holes on the iscg tabs for?

 

[IH8Rice]

what are the extra holes on the iscg tabs for?

weight savings? i dunno really, this was my first DH frame that had ISCG tabs, so i dont really know what others look like. the bottom right tab's hole goes through to the other side from the extrusion process IIRC

 

[ekimox]

the link bearings wear extremely fast, especially compared to the main pivot bearings

How long did you get out of them before they needed to be replaced?

 

[blackohio]

i rode from April/May of last year until about a month ago, pretty hard with no maintenance on them. One link bearing is fine, one is kinda notchy.

 

[IH8Rice]

How long did you get out of them before they needed to be replaced?

i got my replacement frame the end of July and rode till mid November. i cleaned the bike after ever ride usually, but im sure water from the hose got to it too. they felt okay in the frame, but when i took them out, i hard to force them to move.
the main pivot bearings still felt great, so i left them in there.

 

[Frisco]

I've been riding mine since early August. The link bearings still work fine but one or both have a bit of a creak. I live in Washington, though, and have been riding in the rain a ton. I haven't detected a creak or play in the pivot bearings yet.

 

[S.K.C.]

UPDATE:

Just wanted to add this here to let everyone know:

Spoke with Gabe at EVIL and he said that all Revolt Frame orders will be shipping to distributors no later than the first week of May, and that some may ship sooner.

 

[Glisseur]

What's the difference between the last batch of 2009 Revolts over the 2010 models, just updated hardware and links? No structural things with the frame going on?

 

[S.K.C.]

The frames from these two time frames are virtually identical, but EVIL has been working on some prototype linkage bits. As of now, I don't know when those bits will find their way on to production bikes, but I'll check with the guys in the main office to see what's up.

ALSO - Completes:

Gabe said that infor regarding Completes and shipment dates will be released in the next week or so. As soon as I get the word - it will be posted here.

 

[Raingauge]

I pulled apart my linkage tonight to do a clean and grease. All of the pivots came apart easily until I got to the main swingarm pivot. I sprayed it down with WD40 but still nothing. I ended up stripping the 8mm allen out on the drive side it was so tight.

Anyone else had issues with the main pivot not coming out?

Thanks.

Edit: Sent an email to Evil and got a reply back ASAP. That is awesome customer service.

 

[IH8Rice]

I pulled apart my linkage tonight to do a clean and grease. All of the pivots came apart easily until I got to the main swingarm pivot. I sprayed it down with WD40 but still nothing. I ended up stripping the 8mm allen out on the drive side it was so tight.

Anyone else had issues with the main pivot not coming out?

Thanks.

Edit: Sent an email to Evil and got a reply back ASAP. That is awesome customer service.

the main pivot was probably the easiest one to get out for me. are your bolts labeled wrong like most 2009's were?

 

[Raingauge]

the main pivot was probably the easiest one to get out for me. are your bolts labeled wrong like most 2009's were?

Mine are labeled wrong. Kevin emailed me last night and said he would send me a new set.

 

[AdrenalinPimp]

How can you know it's labeled wrong?

 

[IH8Rice]

How can you know it's labeled wrong?

you try to tighten them and you wind up loosening them

Mine are labeled wrong. Kevin emailed me last night and said he would send me a new set.

what wound up happening with your pivot bolt? did you get it off?

 

[Raingauge]

This is what it should look like.

 

[S.K.C.]

To make sure this issue stays sorted for all riders out there, I am going to post up a comparison pic between the correct and incorrect pivot markings so everyone can tell which is which.

I'll have it posted by the end of this week here and on the main page along with frame shipment dates and complete shipment dates.

Cheers!

 

[IH8Rice]

To make sure this issue stays sorted for all riders out there, I am going to post up a comparison pic between the correct and incorrect pivot markings so everyone can tell which is which.

correct:

incorrect:

 

[Raingauge]

what wound up happening with your pivot bolt? did you get it off?

Nope. I'm going to try a heat gun to loosen the loctite. If not I'll drill out the threads.

I tried going both counter clockwise and clockwise but they wouldn't budge.

 

[IH8Rice]

Nope. I'm going to try a heat gun to loosen the loctite. If not I'll drill out the threads.

I tried going both counter clockwise and clockwise but they wouldn't budge.

i used a heat gun as well on one of my flip chip bolts and it thankfully worked after stripping one of them.

drilling out the thread might prove to be harder than you think since the 8mm bolt is essentially the pivot bolt. you might want to try to jam a standard sized socket in there before doing any drilling.

are both of them stuck?

 

[Raingauge]

i used a heat gun as well on one of my flip chip bolts and it thankfully worked after stripping one of them.

drilling out the thread might prove to be harder than you think since the 8mm bolt is essentially the pivot bolt. you might want to try to jam a standard sized socket in there before doing any drilling.

are both of them stuck?

Both are siezed. I'll give the heat gun a go first then try to jam a standard key in there.

 

[IH8Rice]

Both are siezed. I'll give the heat gun a go first then try to jam a standard key in there.

just make sure to keep the heat gun moving around, especially if you have a quality heat gun.
the part that has the label on it (the one we both posted pictures of) is the "female" portion of the bolt. the "male" part obviously threads in from the back and it's threads are fairly fine.
using a standard hex key should be the first thing you try before doing anything drastic like drilling. try to get a long socket or wrench because if you manage to get the male portion out, a normal depth socket will bottom out before you get the bolt out.
honestly, i dont think drilling it will do anything. you'd probably have to cut the male portion of the bolt up somehow and get it out that way.

good luck!

 

[Raingauge]

just make sure to keep the heat gun moving around, especially if you have a quality heat gun.
the part that has the label on it (the one we both posted pictures of) is the "female" portion of the bolt. the "male" part obviously threads in from the back and it's threads are fairly fine.
using a standard hex key should be the first thing you try before doing anything drastic like drilling. try to get a long socket or wrench because if you manage to get the male portion out, a normal depth socket will bottom out before you get the bolt out.
honestly, i dont think drilling it will do anything. you'd probably have to cut the male portion of the bolt up somehow and get it out that way.

good luck!

If someone can tell me the thread size I can find a drill bit that is close to the pitch diameter of the threads. That should remove enough of the threads to push it out.

A picture of the male portion of the thread with a tape measure on it showing the length of the thread would help too. That way I could drill out the threads but leave a shoulder to push it out.

 

[IH8Rice]

wish i could help you out with a picture and measurement, but i dont have a torque wrench that goes to 300in/lbs and i need to ride this week.

 

[IH8Rice]

someone is on the bright yellow school bus

 

[AdrenalinPimp]

Thanks for the info!

My pivot labels are incorrect, it's always good to know before i put 300in of torque in the wrong direction

 

[IH8Rice]

Thanks for the info!

My pivot labels are incorrect, it's always good to know before i put 300in of torque in the wrong direction

its not like youll break it. you'll either tighten it a little more, or loosen it

 

[ekimox]

Is that yellow going to be a factory/stock color or what? Me likely!!

 

[S.K.C.]

Rice! Thanks for the pics!

It looks like the "Glo-Stick" yellow color is only an exclusive pro option for now (Stevie and Vanderham)...

 

[IH8Rice]

It looks like the "Glo-Stick" yellow color is only an exclusive pro option for now (Stevie and Vanderham)...

and this kid, Remi Gauvin (Performance X/Evil), a Cat 1 Junior