There's a yellow Revolt option appearing in the order lists but I guess that's this "Evil yellow" then?
The EVIL Revolt Tech. and Tuning Archive
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
Whats the recommended axle to crown length on these? Im tired of my chris king headset and gonna put something else in but it's gonna change the crowns a bit so I just wanted to see where Evil suggested it before i email gabe if anyone knows.
...and I'm back.
Thanks for the help Rice.
Colorz:
So there's the "Glo-Stick Yellow" that Stevie ran on his 09' Worlds bike last year and Vandersteeze got one as well. This is a neon/flourescent color.
There is also what I like to refer to as "Trans-Am Yellow". This is a color option for the Faction HT frames and as far as it being an option for Revolts - I'm pretty sure it's on the way but I'll have to check on that.
Axle to Crown height: I have this somewhere - need to find it then will post up.*
*In the middle of moving into a new place during spring semester with only 4 weeks of class left. A bit hectic, but no biggie.
Thanks for the help Rice.
Colorz:
So there's the "Glo-Stick Yellow" that Stevie ran on his 09' Worlds bike last year and Vandersteeze got one as well. This is a neon/flourescent color.
There is also what I like to refer to as "Trans-Am Yellow". This is a color option for the Faction HT frames and as far as it being an option for Revolts - I'm pretty sure it's on the way but I'll have to check on that.
Axle to Crown height: I have this somewhere - need to find it then will post up.*
*In the middle of moving into a new place during spring semester with only 4 weeks of class left. A bit hectic, but no biggie.
A question concerning the flip chips...
Must both be rotated at the same time? I believe this is the case, but the directions with the frame did leave a little ambiguity there.
Must both be rotated at the same time? I believe this is the case, but the directions with the frame did leave a little ambiguity there.
im guessing "both" means front and back right?
someone mentioned either in this thread or the countdown thread, that they didnt flip the front and back in unison
Yea, both means front and back. I've got mine set in the low and slack position but I reckon I will change it around so I can pedal on some of the rockier tracks.
Also is the slack position with "Slack position" right reading up? headset is in the steep position and I got a reading of 66º head angle. Fork tubes are all the way down in the upper crown. Doesnt seem right to be that steep with both sets of chips with "slack position" facing correct and upright and the headtube is in the steep position. I thought these could go down to 64º Not that I'd want it that slack
Yes, you can flip just one end or the other to get a position that is half way between low and high. I don't know how much difference there is between just flipping the front and just flipping the rear. I run both of my pairs of flip chips the low position and the head tube set to steep.
I don't remember off the top of my head how much change you get from rotating the head tube but I think it is 1*, maybe as much as 2*. Even if it is one degree and there is some manufacturing tolerance (more likely with the first run frames like yours I would think) it wouldn't be surprising to get the same measurments that you have. Rotating the head tube gets you to 65*, maybe even slacker and that's only 1 degree off of the 64* that you're after. I think Kevin said that one of the early bikes came in at 63* when fully low/slack but I don't know what fork, tires, or build series that was from.
This is all assuming that there is no error in measurement, the surface was level or compensated, etc.
It's a custom color we did for a few of us. It's the faction yellow, and might eventually be an option.
-KT
With my bike in the full slackest setting and the fork slid as far down in the crowns and the headset in the slack setting, it was 62.5* My normal set up for the bike (and kevins, Lukes, Stevies, etc) is the slack flip chips and the steep head angle which is a 64* head angle with a 40.
-KT
So, is the slack setting with the chips reading "slack position" up or "steep position" up? I havent touched geometry at all since I got it. I dont want to be much south of 64/65 anyhow. Just thought it was odd since I though with the flip chips reading "slack position" up (meaning not upside-down) and the fork all the way down in the crowns that it would have been slacker than 66º.
Although the shop measured on the headtube and not the fork stantion (not sure if that matters)
-edit - nevermind I found the flip chip diagram online.
Although the shop measured on the headtube and not the fork stantion (not sure if that matters)
-edit - nevermind I found the flip chip diagram online.
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what a great way to start my 2nd run.
thankfully Kevin @ Evil replied with a solution.
moar great CS from Evil!
thankfully Kevin @ Evil replied with a solution.
moar great CS from Evil!
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Details regarding the miss-happening and the solution?
P.S. any idea about an ETA for the new Revolt frames to Romania? Can't wait for mine any longer, sunny weather has arrived and I ain't got but a Trek 4500 to ride
P.S. any idea about an ETA for the new Revolt frames to Romania? Can't wait for mine any longer, sunny weather has arrived and I ain't got but a Trek 4500 to ride
Same issue here on the weekend. Mine didnt shear like that, but rather the threads pulled themselves thru the flip chip.
Been riding since Janruary, so I have gotten just under 4 months on the frame with its first failure. Rather annoyed, but thats life.
You gents seem to get great tech and support in the USA, I am from Australia and going to call my distributor. I hope it wont cost me the earth to replace, the frame is life new.
SKC, is this normally warranty item? Is there a solution to the flip chip and bushing issue? Should i try to call Evil direct...
Also, as a quick Q. How often do you gents grease the bushings (shoulder bolts)? And what grease do you use. Mine seems to develop a horrible squeek abouth 3 hours after lubrication...
Judd.
there was a tolerance issue with the shoulder bolts causing them not to bottom out. it sheared right at the beginning of the threads.
new bolts are of hardened steel with a c-clip giving extra support
my original frame had that issue. the shoulder bolt pulled right through the drive side flip chip. the flip chip then got stuck in the swingarm too.
i have never had to grease the bolts and or bushings. the only place i got a squeak from was the front shock bolt, but some grease solved that simple problem.
are you sure the bolts arent coming loose causing the squeaking?
They get torque checked once a week. (normally after every 2 rides) Started to squeek a lot recently. Gave me the s**ts, so I chucked some grease on the shock mount bolts. Solved it for 1 ride. Squeeked again. I am going to re-tap the threads and run a die on the bolt for the "time being" but I would love to get this solved ASAP.
So, with the upgraded steel shoulder bolts you mention, are Evil sending these out to anyone with this frame issue? Who should I contact regarding this?
Judd.
So, with the upgraded steel shoulder bolts you mention, are Evil sending these out to anyone with this frame issue? Who should I contact regarding this?
Judd.
Silly question time:
What would be the disadvantages/advantages of turning the shock upside down on the revolt be...
Riding with a Glory rider on the weekend who rides with his shock turned around and raves about how much better it is...
Also, has anoyone installed a Bos Stoy on theirs yet..?
What would be the disadvantages/advantages of turning the shock upside down on the revolt be...
Riding with a Glory rider on the weekend who rides with his shock turned around and raves about how much better it is...
Also, has anoyone installed a Bos Stoy on theirs yet..?
you mean put the reservoir closer to the rear wheel? i dont think you can fit it any other way than what it is.
Been in touch with Evil. All I can say is wow. For a second there i was annoyed I bought a first gen frame and be left in the dark. The were back to me with a solution and parts in 15 minutes!
Customer service is great, whether the bike itslef has issuea or not, resolving them in a quick manner is of upmost inportance and Evil has delivered...
As for the shock, might be insteresting to have a look to see if it fits. The reseviour would be closer to the mud though
That way you have the rod pushing into the shock rather than the shock housing moving onto the rod. In my head it wouldn't make a difference, but I have seen people flip their shock from standard and "claim" a difference.
Customer service is great, whether the bike itslef has issuea or not, resolving them in a quick manner is of upmost inportance and Evil has delivered...
As for the shock, might be insteresting to have a look to see if it fits. The reseviour would be closer to the mud though
That way you have the rod pushing into the shock rather than the shock housing moving onto the rod. In my head it wouldn't make a difference, but I have seen people flip their shock from standard and "claim" a difference.
you are aware that the shock is compressed by both the link and swingarm, no ?Been in touch with Evil. All I can say is wow. For a second there i was annoyed I bought a first gen frame and be left in the dark. The were back to me with a solution and parts in 15 minutes!
Customer service is great, whether the bike itslef has issuea or not, resolving them in a quick manner is of upmost inportance and Evil has delivered...
As for the shock, might be insteresting to have a look to see if it fits. The reseviour would be closer to the mud though
That way you have the rod pushing into the shock rather than the shock housing moving onto the rod. In my head it wouldn't make a difference, but I have seen people flip their shock from standard and "claim" a difference.
regardless it would not matter. the unsprung weight of the shock is too little to make a difference
I thought that, but when sitting on the bike, the swingarm end seems to move a very minimal distance compared o the link end.
Also, do the "I" connectors have a preferance on which way they are installed? Or can they go upside down and back to front..?
At first glance they seem to be concaved. Depending on which way you look at them...
Also, do the "I" connectors have a preferance on which way they are installed? Or can they go upside down and back to front..?
At first glance they seem to be concaved. Depending on which way you look at them...
does not matter which way they are installed.
they come in the rebuild kit, but i didnt use them since mine are in great shape still
NOTE TO ALL:
Thought I was back in business until I had to move out of my old place due to poor conditions. In the new place but still no internet. Getting hooked up this Friday -FINALLY-. Until then I can only get online via the collegiate computer lab.
My apologies for any inconvienience. Rice - thanks for the help in the meantime. I'll be back for good this weekend to help all of you.
Cheers!
S.K.C.
Thought I was back in business until I had to move out of my old place due to poor conditions. In the new place but still no internet. Getting hooked up this Friday -FINALLY-. Until then I can only get online via the collegiate computer lab.
My apologies for any inconvienience. Rice - thanks for the help in the meantime. I'll be back for good this weekend to help all of you.
Cheers!
S.K.C.
Any chance on getting a list in the first post with all the bearings in the frame sized up and measured for replacement purposes?
Also any idea on how long the delivery overseas can take for the soon-to-arrive new frames?
And what kind of shocks are they going to be fitted with?
Also any idea on how long the delivery overseas can take for the soon-to-arrive new frames?
And what kind of shocks are they going to be fitted with?
I don't know the bearing sizes, but I know that the next batch of frames are expected in mid-May. The RC4 will be bolted to them. That comes from my rep. and Gabe himself.
the bearing sizes are somewhere in this thread
Has anyone else had there frame dent from the fork bumpers at all?? Has happened on mine on one side and was wondering if I should send some pics to evil for development in future or if there was an issue possibly?? Doesnt really worry me at this stage as its more cosmetic than structral(sp) so allgood, gotta love that frame regardless!
havent had it happen to me. did you have a big crash?
it is cosmetic... and will happen in 99% of the frames out there from any manufacturer
I've done it to most of my dh bikes over the years... a couple of different giants (old atx, and a team), three different oranges, two sundays, etc, etc
have not put a dent in the Evil yet surprisingly
all it takes is one crash, and is nothing to worry about
Everything went good,
I got the non-drive side to come out using a heat gun, breaker bar and a short snipe. The drive side was stripped so bad I had to put it in the drill press; used a 5/8" bit then a 1" bit. I left a small shoulder on the part with the male thread and just punched it out once the threads were mostly removed.
I have some new bearings and should be able to build it back up this week.
wow, thats a helluva ordeal. did you take any pics?
new hardware kit just came in
What??? I was told today that they weren't going to be available until the begining of May.new hardware kit just came in
No pics of the actual drilling. I have the pivot I drilled out still in the garage. I'll take some pics and post them up later. There is actually lots of room to drill them out and not hit the frame due to the size of the bearings. Pretty simple if you have a drill press.
There are some serious scratches in the paint behind the swingarm. I assume from debris getting in there while riding. Anyone else seen this on there frames?
they just got them in on Monday.What??? I was told today that they weren't going to be available until the begining of May.
these arent anything like the ones that Vital showed on TV's bike, at least i dont think. its really just a hardened bolt w/ a c-clip and 2 bushing per i-link (stock is 4) and a washer for the derlin shoulder bolt.
btw re-assembly is a total nightmare. im about to flip out
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Those shoulder bolts are bomber compared to the old ones I've seen.
yeah, they are significantly more beefier than the stock ones. apparently these bolts should have been on the bike from the get go