Cheers for the replys re the dent guys! thats pretty much what i thought to. With the new hardware kit are evil replacing that on all the old frames, or just snapped hardware?? Thanks.
The EVIL Revolt Tech. and Tuning Archive
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
Cheers for the replys re the dent guys! thats pretty much what i thought to. With the new hardware kit are evil replacing that on all the old frames, or just snapped hardware?? Thanks.
as davetrump said, it cant happen to any bike with a big enough hit from the bumpers.
dont know if they are replacing all of them, but since mine snapped they were awesome enough to get it sent to me lickety splt.
this is the new hardware installed. i havent put the circlips in since i dont have a tool yet.
Kevin said the i-links are suppose to "float" on the new hardware and not bottom out on the bushings
ive had issue in the past installing the shock since the Delta link is tilted by about 1-2mm from one side to another.
i finally found a easy solution to installing the shock without too much cursing.
with most of the bolts loosened, tilting the Delta link and twisting at the same time, i was able to get the upper shock bolt in finally.
has anyone else had issues with this?
steve,
glad you got it sorted. i was a bit confused as to what you were having issue with when you were sending me some messages earlier.
had i known this was the question at hand i would have been able to help. yes, the new hartdware is intended to allow the "I" link t float. plus side of this is that it is pretty much impossible to over tighten and cause excessive drag/stiction on the bushings... a problem had by thise that could not follow torque specs on the previous setup
even with the c-clip, be sure to clean threads and apply blue locktight just to be safe.
glad that you got sorted out in a timely manner.
as for others looking to "upgrade"... unless parts fail you will most likely have to wait until shipment of frames/parts/etc comes in from asia in a couple weeks. Evil most likely only has limited number of parts in house to cover things similar to what steve (ih8rice) had happen.
glad you got it sorted. i was a bit confused as to what you were having issue with when you were sending me some messages earlier.
had i known this was the question at hand i would have been able to help. yes, the new hartdware is intended to allow the "I" link t float. plus side of this is that it is pretty much impossible to over tighten and cause excessive drag/stiction on the bushings... a problem had by thise that could not follow torque specs on the previous setup
even with the c-clip, be sure to clean threads and apply blue locktight just to be safe.
glad that you got sorted out in a timely manner.
as for others looking to "upgrade"... unless parts fail you will most likely have to wait until shipment of frames/parts/etc comes in from asia in a couple weeks. Evil most likely only has limited number of parts in house to cover things similar to what steve (ih8rice) had happen.
I've previously heard something like the frame pre-orders will be shipped not later than the first week of may and some sooner, has this date been shifted to mid-may?I don't know the bearing sizes, but I know that the next batch of frames are expected in mid-May. The RC4 will be bolted to them. That comes from my rep. and Gabe himself.
Also are these new frames getting the steel bolts with c-clips or the old aluminum ones?
Also, about the bearings, I went through the whole topic again and found a mention of the main pivot bearing and that it can be replaced with an Enduro 6806 bearing - no sizing whatsoever.
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A 6806 bearing is 30x42x7.
yeah, it is a bit hard sometimes to try and convey a message via FB. i was a bit perplexed about the link floating on the bolts since both frames didnt do this nor did the rebuild kit i got last year.
the biggest pain was trying to figure out how to manipulate the frame and links to install the shock and the hardware. i think it will be easier now that i know the process.
all threads were cleaned and have enough blue loctite on them too. thanks!
I have. Fought for awhile then loosened everything so I could line things up. I can see why they went with a hardened steel bolt for the link. The threads on one of mine are kind of ugly from trying to get them to line up. It would have be nice if they used a replaceable steel insert for the female thread in the delta link too.
Hopefully the new link kits are in soon... Gabe told me end of the month.
mine shoulder bolts were beat up too trying to get it aligned too.
something replaceable in the Delta link would be nice. the flip chip is replaceable if it gets douched up which is a good idea, because they will, so something up front would be nice too.
by new "link kits" you mean the new steel bolts like i got?
Mid May is the "safe" date. They could show up sooner... Next week even. All the new frames will be speced with the latest hardware/linkage. That's what I've been told anyway.I've previously heard something like the frame pre-orders will be shipped not later than the first week of may and some sooner, has this date been shifted to mid-may?
Also are these new frames getting the steel bolts with c-clips or the old aluminum ones?
Also, about the bearings, I went through the whole topic again and found a mention of the main pivot bearing and that it can be replaced with an Enduro 6806 bearing - no sizing whatsoever.
I was told new links and bolts.
I would think the delta link has to be the most expensive part in the linkage; if it gets wrecked you're probably out some dough. You would probably have to have a way for the insert not to rotate so that the suspension still worked properly. Either have a hex with a c-clip to hold it in place or ...
Not realy an option for you guys tho:
"Replacement Evil Bikes Revolt Linkage Kit
*Please Note - Only available to be shipped with in the EU"
"Replacement Evil Bikes Revolt Linkage Kit
*Please Note - Only available to be shipped with in the EU"
i know, i was just reflecting on the price
I measured my link pivot bearings at 12mmx24mmx6mm and replaced them with the Enduro 6901 2RSMAX bearings. These seemed to fit well.
you could have just looked at the number on the bearing instead of measuring it
ill be putting some upgraded bearings in there mid season i think since they get a lot of wear to them
That would have been way too easy.
what spring rates are you all using?
a 450# is way too soft for me, but a 500# seems okay. im 220lbs
a 450# is way too soft for me, but a 500# seems okay. im 220lbs
I'm 250lbs, getting the frame with RC4 and thinking of a 500# or 550# not sure what way to go (hoping to go down to 220lbs this year).
Any news on the frames? I'm very anctious about getting the bike done, haven't got any ride time this year and its itchy already
Any news on the frames? I'm very anctious about getting the bike done, haven't got any ride time this year and its itchy already
the 500# will be way too soft for you at 250lbs. i used that spring on the RC4 WC and it was okay for me @ 220lbs
Me 150lbs and using 350# with DHX5 (160psi)
wow, im not that much heavier than you and i bottom out the 450# pretty easily
just loosen the rear of the shock and take it off that way. its the easiest way to swap springs
I weight about 150 and run a 300 on my rc4. I'm not positive what psi I have it set at, but it feels pretty damn good!
Just for good measure, a few riding shots!
Just for good measure, a few riding shots!
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I'm 190 and running a 375# ti spring. Kevin told me that was the rate to buy when I got it direct from Obtanium at one of the Fluidride races last year, now he's telling me that I should have gone for 400#...WTF Kevin?
But really, I feel comfortable on it and don't have any problems with bottoming but I avoid flat landings at all costs.
But really, I feel comfortable on it and don't have any problems with bottoming but I avoid flat landings at all costs.
Hate to keep beating a dead horse... but is there any update on delivery times for pre-orders? I know the guys at evil are super pinned so I'd hate to e-mail them with a dumb question that they probably answer 500 times a day.
as stated multiple times over the past few pages...
bikes are expected some time in May. They are hoping to be on track for the first half of the month.
patience people
Holy Crap...
Lots of issues on my end but ANYWAY:
1) Bearing list and locations on the frame: On the way.
2) Axle to Crown Height: On the Way.
3) New tougher shoulder bolts and c-clip set-up - availability and installation directions: On the Way.
4) Updates to the Revolt: On the Way.
All of this will be posted on the main page along with the build sheets for completes.
ALSO: Delivery dates for frames both domestic (US) and abroad (EU).
Juddos: PM me for further info about your bushing wear.
Lots of issues on my end but ANYWAY:
1) Bearing list and locations on the frame: On the way.
2) Axle to Crown Height: On the Way.
3) New tougher shoulder bolts and c-clip set-up - availability and installation directions: On the Way.
4) Updates to the Revolt: On the Way.
All of this will be posted on the main page along with the build sheets for completes.
ALSO: Delivery dates for frames both domestic (US) and abroad (EU).
Juddos: PM me for further info about your bushing wear.
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I havent had bolt issues and im a beast. To me parts like all this are no different than derailleur hangers. They take alot of abuse and will need replacing. Be it at my cost or a companies if they decide to cover.
I cant really put these items on par with the derailleur hanger. Yea you expect your hanger to break when you need it to and when it does its a no brainer you have to fork out yourself for another. These bolts are part of the suspension design and should be up to the job. Yeah they might wear out over time and need replacing this is normal use. If they are snapping then i think its a different kettle of fish. Cheers Ryzo.
Evil has been very good at getting replacement hardware to customers that have had problems. I had an issue at Whistler last summer and Gabe was great and met up with a friend who was passing through Vancouver that afternoon to get me what I needed. In the end I really just missed out on a couple of runs one afternoon and was ready to ride the next day.
If you have any issues you should try to contact Evil as they have been very good at keeping people happy with their Revolts.
If you have any issues you should try to contact Evil as they have been very good at keeping people happy with their Revolts.
got any pics on how you mounted the fender? and which bearings are those for the shock?
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Its kind of hard to see but...I cut out a section with a dremel so that the fender fit around the crossmember on the rear triangle. Drilled a couple of holes for zip ties. On the bottom I just drilled holes and zip tied around the shock bushings. There is lots of tire clearance.
The bearing are the ones below with a 1mm thrust washer. I'm using a DSP spring with Obtanium spring centralizers. I'm going to pick up some more Delrin or Nylon and build new centrailzers that cover the bearing to keep mud and water out of them.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#thrust-bearings/=6z2rg5