From what I can tell, the original guy basically dropped his entire IRA into it @ $50k or something. Which suggests to me he wasn't wildly gambling with house money, and he believed in it long enough to hold the position since sometime in 2019.Even if he bought at the lowest of lows he still must have near 6 figures in, which kind of tells me he isn't in it to get ahead or be comfortable.
To many of us there is an amount we can call enough. For some people that number is all of it.
Seems like the perfect time to buy. It will only go up.From what I can tell, the original guy basically dropped his entire IRA into it @ $50k or something. Which suggests to me he wasn't wildly gambling with house money, and he believed in it long enough to hold the position since sometime in 2019.
I mean, you're obviously right. Just didn't seem to fit the profile of someone playing the numbers game.
Anyway. Did anyone else just dump their entire investment portfolio into GME?
No? Just me?
It's like Bitcoin!!Seems like the perfect time to buy. It will only go up.
to distract buyers from GMEAlright, so why the run on silver?
My brief perusal of Reddit this morning suggests a high level of . Lots of claims of coordinated division attempts of r/wallstreetbets, and/or claims of Conglomo Corp trying to cover losses by driving up silver prices. Either way, more confirmation for my bias that it's all just a bunch of rich people fuckery. Might be some real money to be made in Alcoa shares at this point.Silver Thursday - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
Perhaps?
Go back to the $120k, already depreciated down to $50k.Bumping since @stoney is thinking of buying a depreciating $50k vehicle, apparently
Go back to the $120k, already depreciated down to $50k.
The theory is that taxes (generally) keep going up, and if you expect to maintain a relatively similar lifestyle in retirement, your total taxes paid might be higher than today. Numbers aren't necessarily perfect because they're mostly based on speculation of the future.Read something the other day saying that mathematically speaking, the best way to invest for retirement was:
1. Invest in employer sponsored plan until employer match is achieved
2. Max out roth IRA if eligible
3. Resume investing in employer sponsored 401k up to the cap
Anyone have the numbers to back this up? I'm wondering for whom this is the optimal strategy.
And yes, I am still within the subset eligible to contribute to a Roth IRA.
Yup. Never get used to having the money in hand and you won't miss it.never mind percentages, if you can afford to set aside your max ($19.5k for your age?) do that, and get accustomed to the balance being your working budget. Then evaluate how much money is left for additional investments.
Pro-tip: don't have kids and you'll never worry about affording retirement.Right now my mix is 15% pre-tax (exceeds employer match by quite a bit) to 401K + ~$3K annually to a Roth. I was just curious to see if there was a justification for dialing back my pre-tax and delegating that to post-tax. Not because I'm super worried about it, more so to optimize my savings strategy with little upfront effort.
And take a few mid-life retirements, don't waste that shit on old age.Pro-tip: don't have kids and you'll never worry about affording retirement.
Working on it. Each raise I get now gets split between myself and savings. Though I *highly* doubt I'll find myself in a position, at least in the near future, to max out all of the accounts ala @Toshi.never mind percentages, if you can afford to set aside your max ($19.5k for your age?) do that, and get accustomed to the balance being your working budget. Then evaluate how much money is left for additional investments.
Things get too bad and I can always channel my inner Virginia Woolf.Pro-tip: don't have kids and you'll never worry about affording retirement.
Mid-life retirement #1 already in the books.And take a few mid-life retirements, don't waste that shit on old age.
Working on it. Each raise I get now gets split between myself and savings. Though I *highly* doubt I'll find myself in a position, at least in the near future, to max out all of the accounts ala @Toshi.
Trying to plan it all using just my salary is certainly an exercise in creativity. Hence, this thread.
Things get too bad and I can always channel my inner Virginia Woolf.
Mid-life retirement #1 already in the books.
This is sage advice.And take a few mid-life retirements, don't waste that shit on old age.
If/when they have kids the savings in childcare from being close to parents could be absolutely immense.Also, don't move from Colorado to Massachusetts.
Nothing you have to worry about at this point.This is sage advice.
If/when they have kids the savings in childcare from being close to parents could be absolutely immense.
Pro-tip: don't have kids and you'll never worry about affording retirement.
One of if not the biggest reason we moved back. Of course, we currently cannot afford to live within 45 minutes of either set of parents, due to the ridiculous covid housing market. Didnt see that one coming. Pwned.If/when they have kids the savings in childcare from being close to parents could be absolutely immense.
I did most of that in my 20's...Nothing you have to worry about at this point.
I suppose I had a small one when we moved to CO. Only 3 months, but I suppose that beats nothing, right?I did most of that in my 20's...
Mine were mostly short like that... but there were a lot of themI suppose I had a small one when we moved to CO. Only 3 months, but I suppose that beats nothing, right?
Guesstimate the future value of your savings, then calculate what the 4% safe withdrawal rate looks like on that. Add your estimated social security.Right now my mix is 15% pre-tax (exceeds employer match by quite a bit) to 401K + ~$3K annually to a Roth. I was just curious to see if there was a justification for dialing back my pre-tax and delegating that to post-tax. Not because I'm super worried about it, more so to optimize my savings strategy with little upfront effort.
Agreed, though loans for vehicles can make sense if they're low enough. If you can get a loan for <2%, your can probably make your cash work harder than that.Another piece which seems not to have been meaningfully discussed is pay interest on nothing.
Don't get loans for motor vehicles or anything else, pay credit card bills on time and in full.
The only probably necessary exception is a mortgage.