The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
I ran a Roco WC on my 6 point that without a DW tune as well as a Vivid HLR Coil on my Sunday without a DW tune. They both felt dead and without any pop. Switched over to a Bos STOY with a Sunday tune and now the bike feels great.
I ran a Roco WC on my 6 point without a DW tune as well as a Vivid HLR Coil on my Sunday without a DW tune. They both felt dead and without any pop. Switched over to a Bos STOY with a Sunday tune and now the bike feels great.
Anyone have a leverage rate curve for the Sunday and the 6point? Thanks.
Leverage, plus more factors of Suspension & Gearing selection.
Hi there,
maybe someone can help me out!
I have a problem to remove my lower link on my 2005 7Point!
I can not unscrew the SS Bolt..i even can´t open the screws..which side i have to unscrew or must i hold a hex against from the other side?
And is there a bolt in the smaller bearings on the chainstay part of the lower link or what? I removed both screws, turn one screw half in again and used a hammer, but nothing happen!!
Hope someone can understand my Problem, because my English is realy bad..sry!
Here 2 Pics of the Problem
maybe someone can help me out!
I have a problem to remove my lower link on my 2005 7Point!
I can not unscrew the SS Bolt..i even can´t open the screws..which side i have to unscrew or must i hold a hex against from the other side?
And is there a bolt in the smaller bearings on the chainstay part of the lower link or what? I removed both screws, turn one screw half in again and used a hammer, but nothing happen!!
Hope someone can understand my Problem, because my English is realy bad..sry!
Here 2 Pics of the Problem
Thanks. Have one for 6point?
Nothing but what's Sunday specific. The leverage curve for Iron Horses seem to be left to assume across the lineup as similar, perhaps though the Azure and the Mk3 having unique antisquat since inviting steadier time on the pedals.
question to 2007 Sunday owners who switched to Fox DHX RC4. Will the RC4 be too tight and difficult to adjust if the lower link is not modified, or will the piggy back hit the lower link when you hit bottom so it is necessary to modify the lower link? Did you grind part of the bridge on the lower link or did you remove it all from right to left? Any pictures of your modified lower link? Thanks in advance.
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Here's my lower link, modified to work with a Manitou Evolver air shock - i think you have to do absolutely the same for the RC4. 
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1/1546450_10201117552006715_1541501783_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/1507901_10201117552286722_1601477958_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1/1546450_10201117552006715_1541501783_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/1507901_10201117552286722_1601477958_n.jpg
Looks flexy. I hope you don't have to go that far to fit an rc4. I left most of the biggest bridge in to clear my vector hlr.
Yeah you need to modify it .You can partly grinned it or just cut it as the pics above .I did the same and the link is not flexy at all : )
You can adjust the HSC and LSC easy but to pump it it's pain in the a**
What he said!
The whole frame is strong enough to handle something like this, and even more...
For those who would be interested, a brand new in box Sunday just came up for sale on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IRON-HORSE-2009-Sunday-Team-Down-hill-17-LAST-ONE-/301020413525?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item461636fe55
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IRON-HORSE-2009-Sunday-Team-Down-hill-17-LAST-ONE-/301020413525?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item461636fe55
That thing has been on there for months. Definitely cool that it's never been out of the box but the price is too high for old parts, even if they are "new."
yeah $2200 is a bit ambitious.
It hasn't seemed to have caused any issues so far, as in no reported failures on this thread at least.hi!
I'm up to have my frame powdercoated. It's after the sandblasting and I'm wondering if it is worth the effort to remove some material from the middle section of the frame. Is there any downside?
like this:
i've done it to mine, most people leave around a 5mm border, myself included. i.e don't cut hard up against the "cage".
It makes adjusting the air in the shock far easier as well as accessing some of the other adjustments on a RC4 at least.
I'd go with bead blasting or soda blasting( i left mine raw after soda blasting because i liked the industrial look of it) rather than sand blasting, from my experience sand blasting has caused quite a few bearing seat issues with the various frames i've seen.
thanks the input, than I will do it.
I left in the worn bearings in order to save the connecting surfaces of the bearing seats. works quite good. I washed out the grease so powdercoat won't "contaminate" the bores.
It's already sandblasted. the surface looks like this (quite rough):
I left in the worn bearings in order to save the connecting surfaces of the bearing seats. works quite good. I washed out the grease so powdercoat won't "contaminate" the bores.
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Wise thinking w/ keeping a bearing in place, but speaking for myself I am not too-keen on the lightened seat-tube gusset. If able to be strictly-sized for shock access it's logical, but seeing all the Sunday bikes being cut-up in many odd ways makes me kind of throw up in my own mouth.thanks the input, than I will do it.
It's already sandblasted. the surface looks like this (quite rough):
I left in the worn bearings in order to save the connecting surfaces of the bearing seats. works quite good. I washed out the grease so powdercoat won't "contaminate" the bores.
So I looking for a large ironhorse 6 point front triangle preferably 2008. Anyway have one to sell or know where to find one? Or answer this I got a medium 6 point frame and I'm 5'9 think I will be alright?
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Next best would have to be a complete Frame or Bike - it's too rare to just pick up the front half.
RE: the medium frame - it may fit you fine, it is within typical-sizing specs, but a Large may prove to be a better fit. Just what happened that has you in need like this?
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if youre 5'9" you should stick with the medium. Just get a -2 deg Works Components headset to slacken it out, and increase the Front-Center measurement / wheelbase.
im 5' 11" and have had 2 mediums and 2 larges in the last 3 years. ive sold them off and will be staying with the medium + fox 40. I have no plans or need to get a new DH frame anytime soon, sundays rock #DW4lyfe
im 5' 11" and have had 2 mediums and 2 larges in the last 3 years. ive sold them off and will be staying with the medium + fox 40. I have no plans or need to get a new DH frame anytime soon, sundays rock #DW4lyfe
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I'm interested in buying this Sunday since cracking my Voltage FR frame
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=686638366
But the owner doesn't know what size it is. I'm 6' 2" so hoping for a large. What would be the easiest tell-tale way of him finding out?
If it's to measure the top tube, should they measure the distance between the seat post and head tube, or the distance between the center of the seat post and head tube?
Also, does anyone know if I could use the headset from a Voltage FR30 in a Sunday? I've tried working it out myself but am getting confused over terms like integrated, semi integrated, external, 1.5", 1 1/8" tapered straight headline etc etc.
I believe this is the set I have in the Voltage
http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/15-degree-zs49---zs49---traditional-15-reducer-headset-52-p.asp
Headtube length 115-121mm
My boxxer forks don't have a tapered steerer
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=686638366
But the owner doesn't know what size it is. I'm 6' 2" so hoping for a large. What would be the easiest tell-tale way of him finding out?
If it's to measure the top tube, should they measure the distance between the seat post and head tube, or the distance between the center of the seat post and head tube?
Also, does anyone know if I could use the headset from a Voltage FR30 in a Sunday? I've tried working it out myself but am getting confused over terms like integrated, semi integrated, external, 1.5", 1 1/8" tapered straight headline etc etc.
I believe this is the set I have in the Voltage
http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/15-degree-zs49---zs49---traditional-15-reducer-headset-52-p.asp
Headtube length 115-121mm
My boxxer forks don't have a tapered steerer
Sometimes you can tell by the proportions of the frame, although the camera lens can distort things. If I had to guess it would be a small, the TT looks short. Can the seller not measure the TT for you?
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That looks like a medium. Easiest way to tell visually is the brace from the top tube to the seat tube. If you google large Sunday frame images you'll see on the large that brace goes up higher and the difference is easy to spot.
Al
That is not a large, it's a medium. It's also not an 07/08, it's an 05/06 which is not ideal.
It is very easy to tell because the L Sunday has a much larger seat tube gusset.
You can tell the year model because the 07+ ones use a different linkage set ("F7" Links) which use 10mm shock hardware rather than 8mm. I'd always recommend 07+ models (they are all the same after that essentially) as they have a far better linkage than 06 and older.
Look closely at the frame below. It's a Large (see seat tube gusset), and has the new style linkage which is visually different at the upper shock mount. It will help you identify them next time.
http://www.sicklines.com/projects/project-iron-horse-sunday-rebuild/
It is very easy to tell because the L Sunday has a much larger seat tube gusset.
You can tell the year model because the 07+ ones use a different linkage set ("F7" Links) which use 10mm shock hardware rather than 8mm. I'd always recommend 07+ models (they are all the same after that essentially) as they have a far better linkage than 06 and older.
Look closely at the frame below. It's a Large (see seat tube gusset), and has the new style linkage which is visually different at the upper shock mount. It will help you identify them next time.
http://www.sicklines.com/projects/project-iron-horse-sunday-rebuild/
Wow you guys are great. Thanks for the helpful info! I'll pass on this one.
This looks better as it has those newer linkages but may be to small for me as a med. Large frames seem pretty uncommon
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=688841622
Cheers
That sicklines link and this thread are solely responsible for my fresh love for Sundays
This looks better as it has those newer linkages but may be to small for me as a med. Large frames seem pretty uncommon
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=688841622
Cheers
That sicklines link and this thread are solely responsible for my fresh love for Sundays
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Different people prefer different sizing, but seeing as you are 6' 2" I would definitely hold out until you can find a large. There are lots of Sundays for sale on the pinkbike classifieds in various sizes.Wow you guys are great. Thanks for the helpful info! I'll pass on this one.
This looks better as it has those newer linkages but may be to small for me as a med. Large frames seem pretty uncommon
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=688841622
Cheers
That sicklines link and this thread are solely responsible for my fresh love for Sundays
Can anyone with running M815 Saint crankset and bottom bracket tell me how many spacers they are running on the drive side behind the BB? I followed shimano's instructions by using 2, but I feel like my chainline is too far outboard. Thanks
2 on the drive side and one on the non drive side is standard. You can shift one to the non drive side, but you need to use all 3. Shimano also makes .7/1.8mm spacers in addition to the standard 2.5mm spacers that give you a little more room to tweak the chainline.
looks awesome