[csermonet]

Idk i think both bikes are perfect- its just which perfect bike you feel comfortable with.

agreed. I don't need another DH bike, but if i was to come across a late model year Sunday frame in like-new condition I would buy it just to have it. slowly build it up with modern componentry and just have it as a second bike for friends to ride or for me to ride when im feeling nosalgic lol

 

[msaman]

Hello there guys
I have the 2014 vivid air M/M. Can someone give me a tune for the light rebound please.
Can't find that info on the net.Dropped the weight to 16.4 kg ;*)))
Cheers

 

[csermonet]

Hello there guys
I have the 2014 vivid air M/M. Can someone give me a tune for the light rebound please.
Can't find that info on the net.Dropped the weight to 16.4 kg ;*)))
Cheers

what do you mean, like someones shim stack configuration? or the amount of clicks they are using?

 

[szacsi72]

Guys, was just wondering if anyone here has/has seen a Sunday with the mighy gold race stanchioned 888 RC3 Evo V2? Think thats gonna be my new fork. Want to see picks :3

Also anyone knows if the Float X2 is smaller in diameter than the Vivid Air?

Thanks in advance

 

[msaman]

what do you mean, like someones shim stack configuration? or the amount of clicks they are using?

Yes I need the shim stack configuration please.Have called mojo,tftuned and other bike shops in d uk but no one want to give you this info for free. I have removed 2 shims already(one small and one middle sized) but I think now its a bit too fast over jumps.
So please if someone has d info share it ;*)))

 

[Muddy]

Yes I need the shim stack configuration please.Have called mojo,tftuned and other bike shops in d uk but no one want to give you this info for free. I have removed 2 shims already(one small and one middle sized) but I think now its a bit too fast over jumps.
So please if someone has d info share it ;*)))

Most service is done by RS Authorized outfits as opposed to shops, tools for the Vivid Air are just crazy expensive. Best to just order a L tune kit, and compare to the M.

If you are already fiddling with internals, go with lighter-weight oil. Just change it more frequently.

 

[Gary]

Almost finished reserecting my old '08 sunday... (just waiting on tyres being delivered)

Excuse my poor photography skills...

it's a 2008 Sunday Team

Rawed and polished the frame. Ground down one gear cable stop (for noise reduction) and cut out the uprights (coz it looks prettier)
Can't really see them in the pic but it has silver die cut vinyl IRONHORSE decals on the downtube.
Full bearing and bushing replacement.
-2deg Superstar headset (Was actually cheaper than any ordinary 1.5 reducer I could find..
Parts are mainly what I had lying around and chosen for both lightness and durability.
Fox DHX 3.0
375 progressive Ti Spring
Boxxer Team (X-firm Spring) I don't really like 8" forks and set up like this it rarely gets more than 7"
Point1 Split Second DM stem (25.4 Coz I see no performance increase by switching to 31.8)
Spank Bitch Stick 30mm rise 710mm bars (obvs 25.4 too) I don't really get on with wider. one of my bikes has 740s and I end up riding with my hands inboard of the ends which I don't like... I ride faar better overhanging the grips with the outside of my palms.
Nukeproof single collar lock-on grips. been using these on my XC/DJ hardtail and getting to like 'em. Only time will tell if I get on DHing without outer collars.
Thomson elite seatpost cut down
Vertu cheapy (tioga Spider rip off)... been running this on a DJ bike with no issues... not entirely convinced the same will be true on this bike.
Ironhorse seat collar.
Saint M800 156 cranks. I run these on most of my bikes. Heavy but I just trust them.
Superstar 36T NW chainring.
home made (old Gamut bash) right foot froward quarter bashguard.
Exotic (HT) Nano pedals. New. with all 10 pins each side. (cheapest of the current crop of these) I run these on pretty much all my bikes but remove 6 pins per side on all the others.
SRAM 9 speed chain (same inner diameter as 10 but thicker plates. (so works well with NW and should be stiffer for single speed - just my personal thoughts on the matter)
Gusset One-er S conversion 16T sprocket. (Gusset recommend using 8 speed chains, and 9 is a tight fit. infact with the shipping grease it was decidedly sticky fit... thinking this will actually help retain the chain)
XLC sprung single speed chain tensioner.. drilled the Sunday hanger to hold the grub screw on the back for most tucked away positioning.
unbranded 20mm front hub 32 spoke DT 5.1 rim (Decals removed)
Hope BULB 150mm rear hub (new bearings). 32 spoke Mavic 721
Tyres will be 2.5 DHF upfront, Bling Bling or Spesh chunder rear.
Brakes 203 front and rear 2008 Juicy 7s (still going strong... and I seem to be the only rider in the world who likes these and finds them reliable)

Did I miss anything?

Oh... yeah. Weight 3lb heavier than my everyday 100mm hardtail.
(will weigh it properly once it has DH tyres fitted).

might even ride it.

 

[csermonet]

Almost finished reserecting my old '08 sunday... (just waiting on tyres being delivered)

Nice. good to see one getting put back into service. how did you do the cut outs on the up-rights? and that's a respectable weight, for a mishmash of dece parts you had lying around. props. kinda makes me want to not part out my 6 Point and do something similar. but im a slave to the $$$$$$$

 

[Gary]

how did you do the cut outs on the up-rights? and that's a respectable weight

Drill, dremel then a handfile.
Bathroom scale weight is 35.5lb with those single plys (Michy Hot S folders that just happened to be closest at the time). so with proper DH tyres I guess it'll be somewhere around 37lb?

Sunday frames go for around £200 here and it was £50 for the new bearings so it'd have been daft to sell really.. think the new build cost me not much more than £150 (new chainring, chain, SS sprocket/tensioner/spacers, pedals, grips, wheel bearings, tyre) will just ride it til it dies or I do

 

[csermonet]

Drill, dremel then a handfile.
Bathroom scale weight is 35.5lb with those single plys (Michy Hot S folders that just happened to be closest at the time). so with proper DH tyres I guess it'll be somewhere around 37lb?

Sunday frames go for around £200 here and it was £50 for the new bearings so it'd have been daft to sell really.. think the new build cost me not much more than £150 (new chainring, chain, SS sprocket/tensioner/spacers, pedals, grips, wheel bearings, tyre) will just ride it til it dies or I do

lol that's a ridiculous performance to money ratio. 37 not bad for an old horse. i dont know how much you weigh or how hard you ride, but i tried Maxxis single plys on my 6 point for trail riding and they were all but unusable. I weigh 185 geared to ride, and I had to keep them at atleast 35psi to keep from coming off the rim, and the sidewall was so thin it would puncture on anything, I actually tore a hole in the side of one riding over a small bump in my front yard. I somehow managed a ten mile slog in the pouring rain one weekend on those tires, tubeless too. what a nightmare that could have been. never again, Exo for trail, dual ply for dh. I'd even go dual ply for trail if I had light enough rims

 

[Gary]

lol that's a ridiculous performance to money ratio

Yeah... this thing owes me nothing... it's done 5 Scottish National seasons and a couple of summers in the Alps.

Oh... and don't worry. I'm not planning to ride it with those tyres fitted. they were just what was lying closest to my tools so I stuck them on to test set-up (chainline/retention etc.) so took a few pics while I was doing that.

FWIW tho
My short travel bike (120r/140f) is set up as a mini DHer and has a single ply DHF 2.5 front at 32psi (tubed).and a 2.1 Michy wild grip'R2 advanced set up tubeless (35psi) rear. both are holding up just fine for local EWS (steep/tech) and National DH tracks (rooty, not overly rocky).
I'm a good 20lb heavier than you but a rear wheel rider and pretty smooooth from riding hardtails (with 2.35 single plys (32/40psi) on Scottish DH/Gnarderpo style tracks for the last 20 odd years.
Years of DJ and BMX means I just can't stand even the slightest hint of squirm a soft tyre can give and a foot injury means I'll rarely plow if there's a smoother option or a jump to be hit.

Just bought myself an uplift pass for it for the weekend... just waiting on the postman now

 

[Gary]

Stuck an old 3C DHF and a Chunder on and took it out today. (38lb dead - DH tyres are HEAVY huh?) Unfortunately there are no weekday uplifts so it was a push up day and the hottest day of the year here but a rare opertunity to ride dusty trails.
gotta admit it took a few runs to get used to the extra slacknes. the first two tracks were quite tight with a lot of turns and not high speed. I'm heavier than I was last time I rode this so it was a bit oversagged too so mega slack/low. Part of the reason for going single speed was that my bikes are always really low and I rarely pedal anymore than a stroke or two out a corner or to get back to speed. on the faster and rougher tracks it was ace. (although the Boxxer is really showing it's age and has next to no small bump performance.) fucked forks as long as they're not divey have never really phased me
The chain retention was excellent and it was really quiet until really rough bits of track.. the chaingrowth on Sundays is a lot more than I'd realised so the chain's never going to not hit the chainstay in the rough. I ordered some Sugru so it should be as quiet as possible once that's on the chainstay. (just velcro there just now).
Gonna have to ditch the Nukeproof grips. They're horrible gloveless and the slightest bit of sweat makes them even worse. No grips would have been grippier/more comfortable.
all in all I'm pretty pleased with how this old thing has turned out.

 

[csermonet]

Stuck an old 3C DHF and a Chunder on and took it out today. (38lb dead - DH tyres are HEAVY huh?) Unfortunately there are no weekday uplifts so it was a push up day and the hottest day of the year here but a rare opertunity to ride dusty trails.
gotta admit it took a few runs to get used to the extra slacknes. the first two tracks were quite tight with a lot of turns and not high speed. I'm heavier than I was last time I rode this so it was a bit oversagged too so mega slack/low. Part of the reason for going single speed was that my bikes are always really low and I rarely pedal anymore than a stroke or two out a corner or to get back to speed. on the faster and rougher tracks it was ace. (although the Boxxer is really showing it's age and has next to no small bump performance.) fucked forks as long as they're not divey have never really phased me
The chain retention was excellent and it was really quiet until really rough bits of track.. the chaingrowth on Sundays is a lot more than I'd realised so the chain's never going to not hit the chainstay in the rough. I ordered some Sugru so it should be as quiet as possible once that's on the chainstay. (just velcro there just now).
Gonna have to ditch the Nukeproof grips. They're horrible gloveless and the slightest bit of sweat makes them even worse. No grips would have been grippier/more comfortable.
all in all I'm pretty pleased with how this old thing has turned out.

Sounds like overall it was a success. Good on ya. What's Sugru? I'm about to put something on the stays of my Spit and was going to use a mix of mastic tape and soft side velcro, like I did my DHR, I try to use mostly the velco, and as little of mastic as possible. The mastic tape becomes virtually impossible to remove. It becomes part of the frame, so i try to use it only in the tight, small spots that i can't get the velcro

 

[Gary]

https://sugru.com/

heard good thigs about it. never used it before personally.

 

[Udi]

Looking good @Gary, that's a nice rare spring to hang onto as well. I have one stashed myself.

Make sure you put your sugru (or whatever you end up using) over the cable mounts as well, those things are a big source of noise. The back side of the seatstay up to about the height of the cassette is another one. I do find the chain slaps both top and bottom of the chainstay plenty, the chaingrowth doesn't help much. Even a thin strip of velcro for the bottom works fine, with the thicker/proper stuff along the top. If the tensioner can rotate up and hit the chainstay that's another big one in my experience, a rubber bumper of some sort helps a lot.

I'd be worried about dropping chains with no top guide personally, but if it works it works.

Build is looking pretty well optimised now, especially at that budget. Nice work!

 

[Gary]

@Udi The tensioner arm is fixed so it can't rotate up or hit the chainstay in any way. there's a grub screw behind the mount. I drilled a hole in the mech hanger so it can't move. Chain also can't hit the seatstays like it does in the smaller sprockets of a cassette. chainline is far enough inwards combined with not enough slack even at full compression sees to that. I tested with no shock through full compression. The tensioner is completely taught when the seatstay bridge hits the seat tube. if the chain were just a few mm shorter it'd rip the tensioner clean off. I also filed down the front cable guide flat. it currrently has 3M velcro and a ziptie and is still the worst offender so what's left of it will be covered with Sugru. I'll take a pic of my modelling skills once the Sugru turns up.

TBH I'm as surprised as you at how well the chain retention works without a guide... with no shock and at full compression it actually takes force to lift the chain from the sprocket. (9speed chain + 8 speed sprocket = tight fit) I'm actually really pleased with it. I ordered 15t and 14t DXR sprockets thinking fort William and the Alps may need higher gearing so will need to wait and see if the extra few mm of chainslack and slightly narrower sprocket cause any problems. One huge bonus of SS is it's so much cleaner after a ride without all the nooks and crannies shit gets into with a backplate and guide not to mention between/under each cassette sprocket. (mud just falls off the cone shaped Gusset SS spacers) I can also access the lower pivot/shock bolts without removing anything so working on the bike will be a far less joyless task.. The taco/bash took one nice big hit yesterday so it's doing it's job well too.

When I built this I thought I had M815 Saints in the spares box but when I went to fit them realised they were actually M810s. 10mm semmed a little extreme to face off the BB shell... even for weightweenie Ridemonkey 165mm 815s do occasionally turn up at a decent price second hand so I will get a set if I see some.

 

[Udi]

Yeah mint, sounds good.
I think with some 165mm M815s you'll be left with a pretty dialed bike all round. Gary on a -2 headset, didn't think I'd see the day. Just noticed the 150mm Bulb hub in the list too, think that is deserving of a pic! I just sold the original Pro2s I bought in 2006, after exactly a decade. Clearly you're the real OG though.

I give it a couple more years if you're still alive, we'll get you on 780-800 bars yet.

 

[csermonet]

Yeah mint, sounds good.
I think with some 165mm M815s you'll be left with a pretty dialed bike all round. Gary on a -2 headset, didn't think I'd see the day. Just noticed the 150mm Bulb hub in the list too, think that is deserving of a pic! I just sold the original Pro2s I bought in 2006, after exactly a decade. Clearly you're the real OG though.

I give it a couple more years if you're still alive, we'll get you on 780-800 bars yet.

i agree, closer pics of the components. I want to see the bulb too! like to see the work you did on the uprights as well

 

[Gary]

@Udi & @csermonet Here ya go

Bear in mind I'm no photographer (infact other than the one on my phone I don't own a single camera)

Hubbage...

I must have more than 15 Hope hubs built up and in use with a few others in pieces or just kicking around unbuilt. I've used them on pretty much all my mtbs since I first bought a red set of Fatso/TiGlide QR XC hubs for a light XC race build around 1993 BD* (Mavic 230s laced with DT revs).. I still have those built onto D521s and on my daughters V-braked hardtail.. Can't even count how many Hope hubs I've owned over the years. (maybe 30?)... including Fatsos. TiGlides, Bulbs, Big-Uns, XCs, Sports, ProIIs and ProII evos... I'm no crazy Hope fanboi tho... I've just always had great customer service and warranty from day one from the Barnoldswick boys. I also worked in bike shops and have owned a lot of bikes (100s)

(*Before Discs)

TBC...

 

[kotajack]

I finally finished my Sunday upgrade. Cut the link installed the rc4, and new angleset. Hoping to get it up to highland this weekend. I have read other posts here with suggested settings for the rc4. Most riders are either lighter or heavier than I, so since I am an idiot with tuning a shock, any way I could get a good starting point? I set the settings based on other suggestions I have read on this post but I know there are some super smart tuning monkeys on this board that can dial a shock in pretty close. Any help would be cool.

Fox rc4
Weigh 170 lbs with gear on
using a 350 lb spring- got the sag all set.

 

[Gary]

Cutouts..

Drive side singlespeed set up...

They're nowhere near a professionally cut out job but not too bad for an old blind part time achoholic

Sugru, MOAR 3M lock-block (velcro) attached to a homemade 3mm thick soundproofing rubber strip are attatched now curing before tomorrows ride.

The rubber sheet protector is removable... so easily replaced/modified to taste if required.

That spring in it's natural habitat...

 

[Gary]

This one's just for you @Udi

720mm of perfectly fitting old skool handlebar and nice solid alloy collars to overhang your palms on

 

[szacsi72]

That progressive spring is the one I think for? The ultra rare, very very light one? Think it come with 5th elementh shocks right? I was looking for one everywhere but no use Wish i could get one of those awesome things!

 

[saruti]

szacsi
are you talking about the 275lbs spring that came with the first sundays?

 

[Gary]

That progressive spring is the one I think for? The ultra rare, very very light one? Think it come with 5th elementh shocks right? I was looking for one everywhere but no use Wish i could get one of those awesome things!

Yeah Progressive suspension Ti spring. it's 250g and a 375x2.5 (the writing is still barely visible on it)
it's sat in my kitchen as I've just stuck a 380g Nukeproof 400lbx3 Ti spring on for a bit more support until I drop a few pounds again myself. (I've always had spare steel springs too incase the Ti fails (eibach 400x3 steel = 600g. Fox 350 was IIRC 530g)

 

[szacsi72]

Yeah Progressive suspension Ti spring. it's 250g and a 375x2.5 (the writing is still barely visible on it)
it's sat in my kitchen as I've just stuck a 380g Nukeproof 400lbx3 Ti spring on for a bit more support until I drop a few pounds again myself. (I've always had spare steel springs too incase the Ti fails (eibach 400x3 steel = 600g. Fox 350 was IIRC 530g)

Awesome. I am hunting for a 300lbs one, ive found a 300x2 one which is only 170 grams! Yes its only 2", but thats not the real number. It is compatible with the sunday before someone goes mad at me

Also check out that spring on that elka... MMMMMMMMM
http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/ti-spring-sizing-question-626851.html

 

[szacsi72]

Allright guys, does anyone* know* the shim stack setup for a dhx?
Been searching a bit but no use.
Thanks!

 

[kotajack]

I presume you mean 'out' from full closed, rather than 'in' as you say. If adjusters are closed, they'll turn 'out' (anti-clockwise), if adjusters are fully open, they'll turn 'in' (clockwise). Best to sort that out first.

Anyway I would lean towards minimal LSC on a Sunday, and maybe half of the available range of the HSC as a starting point. 150psi is what I ran for pressure also, but I'd consider running 130-140 for better small bump sensitivity if desired. Boost chamber volume adjuster should generally be fully closed on this bike, and you should set the pressure after setting the chamber size, as changing size will change the pressure.

Trying to get this right cant get it through my small brain
full closed would be all the way (-) even though the dial is all the way out counter clockwise?
full open would be all the way (+) even though the dial is all the way in clockwise?

170 lbs rider and I have been running
350 lb spring
low speed comp all the way (-) which I am guessing is "closed"
high speed comp 6 clicks from full (+)
boost valve 1/2 turn (+) from all the way out which I am guessing is "closed" and 140 psi

Any suggestions on how to improve on this

 

[Hambowbow]

Well I went ahead and did the Float X2 in the Sunday. Was insanely good. Lower link needed a lot more grinding than for an RC4, but opened up the bike a lot. Custom tune and eye to eye and it fit pretty snug, I loved it. Ended up being 16.4 with pedals, pedaled even better, soaked up the big stuff like nothing and never felt the bike bottom out hard.






All that past tense talk.... Sunday is gone, stolen off the back of the car, very sad times. Still got my original frame I painted hanging on the wall at least. The day it was stolen we actually found it later that night (briefly), found out these little bastards had nicked it and caught a train, police did nothing so we went out to look that night, found nothing, then my mate called saying he's looking at it right now, hear a bunch of yelling then his motorbike redlining away. He chased em for a bit but once they went through the train station he couldn't run up the stairs with the moto and they got away. By the time I got to where he was they were long gone, haven't heard a thing from anyone since. I'd say it's just been dumped somewhere or completely stripped, thrown into the river or something else to get a laugh out of the kids. So, time to move on from the horse, a new Pivot Phoenix Carbon is on it's way and just hope that one day I find the Sunday again.

 

[Flo33]

Well I went ahead and did the Float X2 in the Sunday. Was insanely good. Lower link needed a lot more grinding than for an RC4, but opened up the bike a lot. Custom tune and eye to eye and it fit pretty snug, I loved it. Ended up being 16.4 with pedals, pedaled even better, soaked up the big stuff like nothing and never felt the bike bottom out hard.






All that past tense talk.... Sunday is gone, stolen off the back of the car, very sad times. Still got my original frame I painted hanging on the wall at least. The day it was stolen we actually found it later that night (briefly), found out these little bastards had nicked it and caught a train, police did nothing so we went out to look that night, found nothing, then my mate called saying he's looking at it right now, hear a bunch of yelling then his motorbike redlining away. He chased em for a bit but once they went through the train station he couldn't run up the stairs with the moto and they got away. By the time I got to where he was they were long gone, haven't heard a thing from anyone since. I'd say it's just been dumped somewhere or completely stripped, thrown into the river or something else to get a laugh out of the kids. So, time to move on from the horse, a new Pivot Phoenix Carbon is on it's way and just hope that one day I find the Sunday again.

Damn, sad story!

 

[hitar_potar]

Well I went ahead and did the Float X2 in the Sunday. Was insanely good. Lower link needed a lot more grinding than for an RC4, but opened up the bike a lot. Custom tune and eye to eye and it fit pretty snug, I loved it. Ended up being 16.4 with pedals, pedaled even better, soaked up the big stuff like nothing and ....

Sooo, the Float x2 is better for the Sunday than an RC4, correct? And what about the lower link - isn't it cut too much and therefore isn't strong enough???

 

[Hambowbow]

Sooo, the Float x2 is better for the Sunday than an RC4, correct? And what about the lower link - isn't it cut too much and therefore isn't strong enough???

Well it felt better for me, but I'm no world cup racer. Dunno about if it's better on paper but I was loving it more than the RC4. Yeah the linkage lost a fair bit, but no flex at all, the shock was bloody tight in there and after a weekend of racing it wasn't scratched from flexing so obviously still plenty strong.

 

[hitar_potar]

Well it felt better for me, but I'm no world cup racer. Dunno about if it's better on paper but I was loving it more than the RC4. Yeah the linkage lost a fair bit, but no flex at all, the shock was bloody tight in there and after a weekend of racing it wasn't scratched from flexing so obviously still plenty strong.

Hmm, it's interesting to read about this. I myself have cut the link a la RC4-style, but in order to fit my Manitou Evolver ISX-6 air shock. Been riding it for the past 3 years like this without a single issue whatsoever - marvelous combination. Have tried my Sunday with a vivid coil and another one with a fox shock, both felt harder-working compared to the Evolver.

 

[Jm_]

Sooo, the Float x2 is better for the Sunday than an RC4, correct? And what about the lower link - isn't it cut too much and therefore isn't strong enough???

Send the RC4 to avalanche. Custome tune>OEM shocks. I have an RC4 on a DW link and it's amazing (tuned of course).

 

[szacsi72]

Send the RC4 to avalanche. Custome tune>OEM shocks. I have an RC4 on a DW link and it's amazing (tuned of course).

Ye? How about Sending an X2 to avalance?

Well I went ahead and did the Float X2 in the Sunday. Was insanely good. Lower link needed a lot more grinding than for an RC4, but opened up the bike a lot. Custom tune and eye to eye and it fit pretty snug, I loved it. Ended up being 16.4 with pedals, pedaled even better, soaked up the big stuff like nothing and never felt the bike bottom out hard.






All that past tense talk.... Sunday is gone, stolen off the back of the car, very sad times. Still got my original frame I painted hanging on the wall at least. The day it was stolen we actually found it later that night (briefly), found out these little bastards had nicked it and caught a train, police did nothing so we went out to look that night, found nothing, then my mate called saying he's looking at it right now, hear a bunch of yelling then his motorbike redlining away. He chased em for a bit but once they went through the train station he couldn't run up the stairs with the moto and they got away. By the time I got to where he was they were long gone, haven't heard a thing from anyone since. I'd say it's just been dumped somewhere or completely stripped, thrown into the river or something else to get a laugh out of the kids. So, time to move on from the horse, a new Pivot Phoenix Carbon is on it's way and just hope that one day I find the Sunday again.

I have seen it on the IH facebook page. Man, fucking sad story I want to install an X2 myself too, but I will make a custom lower linkage. RC4 kinda cutting is OK, but this is too much for me.

 

[Hambowbow]

Ye? How about Sending an X2 to avalance?




I have seen it on the IH facebook page. Man, fucking sad story I want to install an X2 myself too, but I will make a custom lower linkage. RC4 kinda cutting is OK, but this is too much for me.

Well for avalanch I dunno, but I did get mine tuned for the bike so that's worth noting. And you'll need a custom eye to eye, the top shock mount will top out on the top tube, I had mine shortened 3mm which was heaps, 1.5-2mm would be plenty, not hard on the X2.

Yeah I looked at a custom link. It was definitely strong enough because it was so tight and a weekend of racing didn't scratch at all so no more flex than the RC4 had which is good, but I had already spoken to a machinist about making a new one. Plenty of space to reinforce underneath with a new gusset, bit pricey to CNC a new link but who doesn't want a one of a kind Sunday?!

Just saw the facebook page, people so quick to jump on the attack hahaha. Saying the shock was cracked where the mould sides met during manufacturing, every X2 resevoir looks like that!

 

[Jm_]

Ye? How about Sending an X2 to avalance?

Call Craig.

 

[hitar_potar]

Bit too pricey for me to send a shock to Avalanche to custom-tune it. Also, i don't know what to tell them to alter inside the shock (no matter if it's an X2 or my Evolver), nor do i understand what i need to work better. I like it the way it is, the suspension feels bottomless, eats up everything, i need no less than 2 bars inside my rear tyre in order to feel it in control (which is fine for the tyre, cause it's a Maxxis EXO one mounted on a DH bike - no issues with it so far), otherwise if it has less, it feels like i have a flat tyre and am sliding all the way.

 

[szacsi72]

Well for avalanch I dunno, but I did get mine tuned for the bike so that's worth noting. And you'll need a custom eye to eye, the top shock mount will top out on the top tube, I had mine shortened 3mm which was heaps, 1.5-2mm would be plenty, not hard on the X2.

Yeah I looked at a custom link. It was definitely strong enough because it was so tight and a weekend of racing didn't scratch at all so no more flex than the RC4 had which is good, but I had already spoken to a machinist about making a new one. Plenty of space to reinforce underneath with a new gusset, bit pricey to CNC a new link but who doesn't want a one of a kind Sunday?!

Just saw the facebook page, people so quick to jump on the attack hahaha. Saying the shock was cracked where the mould sides met during manufacturing, every X2 resevoir looks like that!

Welp I'll probably do the linkage along with the C2R2 Shiver in wintertime when I'm free. If it works out I'll make the file available for you all for free, youll just need to get someone with a CNC.

 

[Udi]

I don't mean to rain on this parade but:

• A Float X2 will never work as well as an RC4 coil (particularly the newer small-shaft version) in this frame, in fact no air shock will work as well as a coil shock in this frame. If you ever thought that objectively then you made a mistake in setup somewhere, I think it's important that people purchasing new shocks know what the best option is without dilution. My current recommendation is the small-shaft RC4 with air assist fully closed and 140-150psi. For 2nd place I'd consider the Vector HLR coil. I think a shaft diameter in the 12-14mm range is ideal (and preferable over the 15.875mm fat-shaft RC4) because it works better with the Sunday's initial leverage ratio. My past recommendation was the fat-shaft when there were less options - but we can do better now. The venerable DHX5 still goes alright too.
  
• I would never cut the link as pictured above because you're most certainly sacrificing the link's structural properties by cutting into the T section of those beams. Working for a short period of time doesn't equate to long term durability, and it's unfair to others to plaster around this kind of mod without warning that it hasn't been tested in the long term. I would only recommend removing the minimum amount required to fit an RC4 (central braces, nothing else), and ensuring all sharp edges are smoothed after cutting. These F7 links are now rare, so be thoughtful and careful when modifying - if you break one it's game over. They are cold forged 7075, good luck ever finding an equal-quality replacement - the BOS ones for example are much heavier.
  
• There's a big difference between having a "cool and original" bike and having one that is the best from a physics standpoint, and while I don't want to discourage anyone from sacrificing performance to build something unique, I think it's important that this thread maintains a fact-based recommendation for people who just want the best performing bike.
• Maxxis EXO tyres are not a DH tire for any proper DH use (too thin), I think if you think that then your shock choice is likely also questionable - at least for people who are riding proper (rocky/rough) DH courses. Again - I'm not saying this won't work for certain individuals - but be careful when giving global recommendations.
• The Shiver is an incredibly heavy and flexy fork and should probably be left in the past where it belongs if you want a fast bike, but I do admit it's still kinda cool.

I'm posting this because with the right upgrades and modifications the Sunday can still be an incredibly competitive bike (having been so far ahead of its time upon release) - however modern bikes have certainly surpassed it now, so it's worth making the best choices possible if staying competitive is a priority. Of course if that's not the priority, then party on.

As a sidenote, I think the Sunday is also a great candidate for a 650b-front conversion, since it has a BB-height on the low side that would work well with the slight lift of the 650 front. The end result would be a noticeable improvement in front bump absorption (along with reduced rider fatigue and an overall faster bike). I would use a -1.0* cup (no slacker) if doing this, for a net HA of around 63*. Before anyone extrapolates the wrong idea from this though - don't put one on the back unless you want a terrible bike. The Sunday will only ever be good as 650F/26R or 26F/26R, putting 650 on the back will destroy the geometry.