Mine isn't is coming off too, plus it's not long enough to protect the gear cable from the chain. Gonna ditch it and use roadie grip tape or something else.
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
Butch - what kind of issues are you having w/ the zip ties? Are they getting chewed up b/c they go up and over the shift cable tunnel on the outside of the guard?
Toodles - if you want, try this method that the team used before the I.H./T.H.E. chainstay guard came into effect:
Toodles - if you want, try this method that the team used before the I.H./T.H.E. chainstay guard came into effect:
i just wraped the chainstay in roadie handlebar tape... super clean, stays put and is silent
never even touched the guard that came with the bike
put a little on the lower part of the "seat stay" and the vertical strut at the front portion of the swingarm and the only thing you can hear is your freewheel
never even touched the guard that came with the bike
put a little on the lower part of the "seat stay" and the vertical strut at the front portion of the swingarm and the only thing you can hear is your freewheel
did you wrap it over the derailleur cable housing?
As for the zipties, I did two to hold the THE guard in place for the glue to cure, but the glue just peeled away in a minute or two. I could probably get a piece of medical grade tubing, it would be good for the cable housing. Where to get it though? Not exactly something that's been on my shopping list...unless you count my heroin stage when I was 2.
I have two of those THE pro guards and they simply wouldn't stay on. this is what I had to do:
1 - go to your hardware store and get some Scotch Industrial-strength double sided mounting tape
and
a small can of contact adhesive - one with that little brush under the cover.
2 - Clean the backside of the guard and make sure it's free of old glue and dry.
3 - The Scotch tape isn't strong enough to adhere to the guard - so use the contact adhesive and glue two strips of tape on each edge. I then sandwich the guard between two thin pieces of wood and clamp it in the vise. Let it sit over night.
4 Next day, clean your swingarm with rubbing alcohol, dry surface with hair dryer and affix the guard (I put the clear tube under). Use either zip ties or soft clamp to hold it in place for a little bit.
That is the only way I got mine to stay on. Hope this helps?
Like SKC mentioned, my zip ties also used to get chewed from chain slap. at one point I was using safety wire to hold my housing on but they are a bitch to take off..
1 - go to your hardware store and get some Scotch Industrial-strength double sided mounting tape
and
a small can of contact adhesive - one with that little brush under the cover.
2 - Clean the backside of the guard and make sure it's free of old glue and dry.
3 - The Scotch tape isn't strong enough to adhere to the guard - so use the contact adhesive and glue two strips of tape on each edge. I then sandwich the guard between two thin pieces of wood and clamp it in the vise. Let it sit over night.
4 Next day, clean your swingarm with rubbing alcohol, dry surface with hair dryer and affix the guard (I put the clear tube under). Use either zip ties or soft clamp to hold it in place for a little bit.
That is the only way I got mine to stay on. Hope this helps?
Like SKC mentioned, my zip ties also used to get chewed from chain slap. at one point I was using safety wire to hold my housing on but they are a bitch to take off..
I ran this setup on all my Sundays and had no problems with it (in fact, it's going to outlast any Sunday frame from experience). Wrap a tube around your chainstay then zip tie that down. Next, cut a hole through the tube on either side of the cable guides. Then, run your derailleur casing through a length of clear rubber hose, and zip tie that down to the cable guides. I've done this setup on my bikes as well as friends, and its the quietest and easiest way I've tried.
rubber tubing available at locations other than opium dens?
auto shop...fuel/windshield fluid hoses
Camelback tubing that has gone foostie works good.
OH...one other question. I just popped my 888 off to sell to someone and the lower cup had some wacky thin spacers fall out. Where do they go? Outside the shell between it and the lower race? Or inside the shell between the shell and bearings?
Those are FSA micro-spacers.
The microspacers go between the top cover and the compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the head tube.
so they go inside the black cover. Not outside it against the race. Got it.
There are 5 of them stock between top cover and compression wedge.
On that note, you can eliminate that top cover altogether if needed, and just run 2 or 3 microspacers as required between the compression wedge and top crown.
Means you can get your bar height lower, kill some weight
, and give you more freedom with adjusting the fork height in the crowns.
Sealing isn't an issue because you'll notice the bottom bearing runs open to the elements anyway, apart from the bearing's own seal... and still seems to work fine.
On that note, you can eliminate that top cover altogether if needed, and just run 2 or 3 microspacers as required between the compression wedge and top crown.
Means you can get your bar height lower, kill some weight
, and give you more freedom with adjusting the fork height in the crowns.Sealing isn't an issue because you'll notice the bottom bearing runs open to the elements anyway, apart from the bearing's own seal... and still seems to work fine.
Not the top crown guys. These were at the lower cup and lower race!!There are 5 of them stock between top cover and compression wedge.
On that note, you can eliminate that top cover altogether if needed, and just run 2 or 3 microspacers as required between the compression wedge and top crown.
Means you can get your bar height lower, kill some weight
Sealing isn't an issue because you'll notice the bottom bearing runs open to the elements anyway, apart from the bearing's own seal... and still seems to work fine.
Guys - just to clarify some of the wacky lingo:
Top Cover:
Compression Ring:
The micro-spacers go in between the Compression Ring and the Top cover.
Top Cover:
Compression Ring:
The micro-spacers go in between the Compression Ring and the Top cover.
if they are flat thin stainless washers like this
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=estore&taxid=228&pid=291
then someone made a mistake.....they go up top
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=estore&taxid=228&pid=291
then someone made a mistake.....they go up top
yup. that's them. When I pulled the fork off the bike, I looked right at the little elevated top cap and E13 stuff. It was all black. I noticed what it all looked like b/c I had never seen the E13/FSA setup with fork off.
After I took the fork off, the bottom cups "cap" fell off after about 30 seconds and all the little microspacers were in the pile of things that fell off the bottom of my headtube. The pile was 4 or 5 microspacers and the cap. Nothing came off the top of the headtube.
Yeah dave's right... sounds like someone stuffed up building it.
If you don't run them, the headset top cover sits against the e13 reducer and rubs on it, instead of clearing it and sitting on the compression wedge. Did you notice anything like that?
UPDATE:
- just thought I'd let everyone know that I posted CAD schematics of the 2007 Sunday with an exploded view of the linkage including all of the torque values and part numbers today.
It's on the first page as usual - just scroll down a bit to find it.
Hope you like it - and let me know if there are any problems reading it.
Thanx to SkaTodd, Dante, and Acadian for all their help.
Enjoy!
- just thought I'd let everyone know that I posted CAD schematics of the 2007 Sunday with an exploded view of the linkage including all of the torque values and part numbers today.
It's on the first page as usual - just scroll down a bit to find it.
Hope you like it - and let me know if there are any problems reading it.
Thanx to SkaTodd, Dante, and Acadian for all their help.
Enjoy!
This thread does not need links to other sites. SKC is doing a fine job, knock it off with the spam.
What did I miss?
Whatever it was, thanks for the support - I appreciate it.
Whatever it was, thanks for the support - I appreciate it.
i want to know how you got the title
"Paris Hilton's #1 Fan"
"Paris Hilton's #1 Fan"
anyone got a 2007 small sunday frame they wanna trade for a new 2007 medium factory frame?? Im pretty short and would be better on the small, thanks!
.....
Ya HAD to bring that up didn't you?
I'll explain it to you in a PM.
For everyone else: Basically I'm disgusted by everything she represents so on the basis of posting 2 threads about it in the Lounge one of the mods thought a new title would be funny.
NOW: Let's put that ugliness behind us and get on with Tech. and Tuning for the Iron Horse Sunday.
yessiree Mr. Hilton......
Ya HAD to bring that up didn't you?
I'll explain it to you in a PM.
For everyone else: Basically I'm disgusted by everything she represents so on the basis of posting 2 threads about it in the Lounge one of the mods thought a new title would be funny.
NOW: Let's put that ugliness behind us and get on with Tech. and Tuning for the Iron Horse Sunday.
By the by, so My 07 Sunday Elite came stock at 43.8lbs and I did some mods to her. Here are mods so far:
Swapped DT 340 hub/MTX rims to I-9 wheels w/ DT 6.1 rims (new metal).
Cut 50-60mm off the full length Thomson post
Switched the 50/50 pedals to Specialized mags (and/or Mallet M's)
Sold the stock dayglo 888 RC2x out and got a 888 ATA SL air fork.
Dropped the 2.7 and 2.5 Minions & Maxxis DH tubes for Comp 16/Comp 24 combo w/ Specialized Enduro tubes.
Result...41.5lbs while dirty..so maybe a few grams of muck.
Was gonna go to Gravity lite cranks instead of the stock Diabolus boat anchors...but I'm done.
Only other 2 changes, which won't be significant are swapping the Zoke direct mount stem to a Thomson x4 and the Funn Fatboy for??
End result...bike that is still BURLY stout with no loss in stiffness, but over 2 pounds lighter without sacrificing durability for weight.
Butch - WOW, nice build man!
You don't #### around do you?
Go with a set of Easton EA70 Monkey bars, or Answer Pro Taper OS - they are both within 10g of each other and weigh around 265g.
EDIT: On a side note the gods took pity on me and my title is now back to good ol' "Turbo".
You don't #### around do you?
Go with a set of Easton EA70 Monkey bars, or Answer Pro Taper OS - they are both within 10g of each other and weigh around 265g.
EDIT: On a side note the gods took pity on me and my title is now back to good ol' "Turbo".
I'm not big spending though. The I9's are one of their original demo sets from back in the day. The fork is cheaper than the one that came on the bike. Riding an unproven air fork is gonna be sketch mentally, but I think it will be fine. So much easier to move around a lighter fork.Butch - WOW, nice build man!
You don't #### around do you?
Go with a set of Easton EA70 Monkey bars, or Answer Pro Taper OS - they are both within 10g of each other and weigh around 265g.
EDIT: On a side note the gods took pity on me and my title is now back to good ol' "Turbo".
You wouldn't think a single pound would mean much...but when it's all in that front end like that it slows you down alot.
Yeah - tell me about it - I'm rocking a 888RC2X on my front end for 07'...
But I've got the "Works Fluid System" in it from Marz in Cali so it's smooooth as buttah.
The extra pound and a half just means I have to man-up and lift more at the gym.
(Cartman's voice: ) Beefcake! Beefcake!
"follow your dreams"
'You can reach your goals"
"I'm living proof."
'You can reach your goals"
"I'm living proof."
LOL... :biggrin:
So did the '07 linkage kit ever become available to buy?
Yes.
2007 F7 Linkage Kits are INBOUND and will be arriving on U.S. shores soon.
Todd will be posting an update concerning this shortly.
2007 F7 Linkage Kits are INBOUND and will be arriving on U.S. shores soon.
Todd will be posting an update concerning this shortly.
Word. The new linkage design is much better, and my '05 needs some Fox love back there.
While the kits have arrived, I and the other other customer service dudes are still in the middle of sorting out all the parts and building them into kits. They will not be ready untill some time next week, when they are completely built up and a price has been established. I will post up then.
Thanks
-Mike L
Warranty/CS/Tech Support
SKC said:
so i got to thinking last night, is one of these cool options the new rock shox vivid?
I think I talked to you this morning... Keep us posted - Must have new links......
From what I understand it is not only less low speed compression but also less rebound as well. As far as what they do specifically with the shim stacks - I have no idea.
Fox will be offering this tune shortly - as soon as I get word I will update the thread's front page.