The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
The rear lower linkage pivot may be loose.
Hmmm....
Try removing the rear wheel and taking it to a shop to check for play in the drive shell...
If it's not that then it could be the linkage, but lets rule out one thing at a time here.
Try removing the rear wheel and taking it to a shop to check for play in the drive shell...
If it's not that then it could be the linkage, but lets rule out one thing at a time here.
The Fox stroke is also 3". I'm not sure if the other dimensions are compatible.
I'm about 170 lbs in the full Captain Safety suit. I like a really plush feel and 300 lb/in is about right for me, so 275 sounds reasonable for you. Or maybe you'd like 250 and a bit extra ProPedal to firm up the feel when pedaling and pumping.
quick question. I weigh 125 lbs in full gear and am currently running a 250 lb spring. I was thinking about trying the 5th 275 spring. Do you think that would be better for me?
ok, i want to get my 07 sunday dialed in with the dhx 5.0 and 300# spring for my weight i don't know much about the shock, so can i get some advice, i like it nice an plush feeling, so far i got the boost all the way (+) and about 2 clicks on the propedal, im wondering whats the right psi for my weight and also wondering how tight the spring should be on the shock and how i set this right, thanks
Xemini - check out the first page of this thread - I have it set up like one giant archive - wich I will be updating shortly with new info during Interbike - :biggrin:
As far as the spring goes - a good rule of thumb is to barely tighten the collar until the spring is held in place. Then after that you shouldn't tighten down the collar more than 2 full rotations.
EDIT: As far as psi in the air chamber goes - that's really something you have to experiment with until it feels right to you.
As far as the spring goes - a good rule of thumb is to barely tighten the collar until the spring is held in place. Then after that you shouldn't tighten down the collar more than 2 full rotations.
EDIT: As far as psi in the air chamber goes - that's really something you have to experiment with until it feels right to you.
After coming back from riding, I realized I lost the cap/bolt that covers the bearing on the lower part of main framethat's mounted to the dW link. Does anybody know where I can get this missing hardware???
Ironhorse maybe.
Mine were super loose also today but I found out before it was too late. They required a good amount of loctite to stay in place.
Mine were super loose also today but I found out before it was too late. They required a good amount of loctite to stay in place.
Now this problem has solved. My frame is outside of warranty period and there is no warranty on my frame.Is there anyone else who has fractured Sunday frame? I have owned Sunday frame year and three months now. Couple of days ago I noticed fractures shown in a picture. Link to the picture -> http://img523.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p8210590vf7.jpg
There is fractures both sides of the frame. Fracture shown in a picture is longer one.
F***. There has been enough problems with this sh** without these fractures. Linkage, shock etc.
Now it looks like that Iron Horses customer service is not nearly in the same level as what Turner has.
There is a one good thing. Now I know that this is my first and last Iron Horse.
Thats all. No arguments. Only argument was that there is no warranty. This cant be manufacturing error? Yes, it cant be. We are mighty Iron Horse and we dont make mistakes.
They told me that I will get prices of replacement parts soon as possible. Now 3 weeks later I still dont know prices... Again, well done Iron Horse. But I dont care. I have get the feel of waiting with this company.
If you ask something like how the DW-link works etc. you get answers very fast. When you have problems with product there is no hurry to answer.
Keep up the good work!!
you do realize that Iron Horse and every other bike company is going through the 6 BUSIEST weeks of the year don't you. Euromulletbike, Canuckbike, Intervegashookerbike....and so on...
Terppa, sorry to hear that you've been waiting 3 weeks for a reply - it shouldn't take that long, so I'm going to get in touch with the boys in the front office to see what I can do to help you.
I'm pretty sure Iron Horse would never deny a problem if something was manufactured incorrectly. We are here to help you in any way possible to get you back on your bike in the shortest period of time.
I wish you would have PM'd me about this after a week or so. The guys in the office get REALLY busy around this time of year with all of the tradeshows like Bizutch said. I can understand your frustration, but I will do everything I can to make sure this is resolved ASAP.
Since most of the staff is focusing on Interbike in Las Vegas, Nevada, I'll see who I can grab to help out with this.
I'm pretty sure Iron Horse would never deny a problem if something was manufactured incorrectly. We are here to help you in any way possible to get you back on your bike in the shortest period of time.
I wish you would have PM'd me about this after a week or so. The guys in the office get REALLY busy around this time of year with all of the tradeshows like Bizutch said. I can understand your frustration, but I will do everything I can to make sure this is resolved ASAP.
Since most of the staff is focusing on Interbike in Las Vegas, Nevada, I'll see who I can grab to help out with this.
Bizutch and S.K.C.
I know that bike companies is in a hurry now. But I think that it is not the only reason for my waiting. 3 weeks is not a short time. It cant be so difficult to search the prices.
Like I said this problem is solved. Iron Horse told that there is no warranty for my frame. Local Iron Horse dealer will "take care" of my frame.
I just wanted to write few sentences of my case. I like the bike, but problems with it is pure pain.
I think that there is manufacturing error in the weldment. Both sides, same place. My seat tube is so long as it can be. So I havent caused the fractures with too short seat tube. Most of readers know how for example Turner care such things. Every frame is fixed or replaced. Even out of warranty period. Thats why Im so ****ing angry. 3 months and thats it.
S.K.C:
Thanks for good answer. There is no use to send PM to you. Forget this thing. Everything is "ok" now.
I know that bike companies is in a hurry now. But I think that it is not the only reason for my waiting. 3 weeks is not a short time. It cant be so difficult to search the prices.
Like I said this problem is solved. Iron Horse told that there is no warranty for my frame. Local Iron Horse dealer will "take care" of my frame.
I just wanted to write few sentences of my case. I like the bike, but problems with it is pure pain.
I think that there is manufacturing error in the weldment. Both sides, same place. My seat tube is so long as it can be. So I havent caused the fractures with too short seat tube. Most of readers know how for example Turner care such things. Every frame is fixed or replaced. Even out of warranty period. Thats why Im so ****ing angry. 3 months and thats it.
S.K.C:
Thanks for good answer. There is no use to send PM to you. Forget this thing. Everything is "ok" now.
Treppa,Now this problem has solved. My frame is outside of warranty period and there is no warranty on my frame.
This cant be manufacturing error? Yes, it cant be. We are mighty Iron Horse and we dont make mistakes.
They told me that I will get prices of replacement parts soon as possible. Now 3 weeks later I still dont know prices... Again, well done Iron Horse. But I dont care. I have get the feel of waiting with this company.
If you ask something like how the DW-link works etc. you get answers very fast. When you have problems with product there is no hurry to answer.
Keep up the good work!!
In the last email you and I spoke, I explained to you that you were out of the warranty period, as warranty on DH frames is 1 year from that date of purchase. You told me that you just wanted a set of 07 decals in red as you were going to get the frame welded instead of taking the crash replacement, which I sent to you. If you would like to discuss the option of a crash replacement again you can email me : MikeL@IronHorseBikes.com
Have a nice day
-Mike L
Warranty/Tech Support
I will send E-mail to you. It seems that there has been little misunderstanding with both of us. Local IH dealer has taken contact to you or someone in the company and all this is solved now.
I meant that there was no explanation about fractures and the possibility of manufacturing error. Only that there is one year warranty period. And what comes to sticker kit, I have not get them. Honestly. Maybe stickers are still on the way.
MikeL,
I'm still looking in my mailbox for my Iron Horse no-limit Mastercard. It hasn't shown up yet and I'm thinking of buying one of every bike. Let me know if it's still on it's way.
I'm still looking in my mailbox for my Iron Horse no-limit Mastercard. It hasn't shown up yet and I'm thinking of buying one of every bike. Let me know if it's still on it's way.
Jusy trying to save myself some time, anybody running holzfeler crank/howitzer set up with an e-13 know how many spacers they use for the optimum chain line, atm I recon 1 black one(cos thats what it says in the e-13 book) but im just wondring if i will want to use the additional spacers? Thanks
Hi Guys
Can I ask an honest opinion here?
I bought an 07 Sunday expert (pink 888's)as my first DH bike. I wanted a DH/ freeride orientated bike and the IH website at the time said "aggressive freeride"for the Expert
The local track is probably more freeride orientated as it has some pretty big huck lines, anything between 6 -15ft drops. Most with transitions and landings. I have also been hitting more flowy DH trails but i would say 70% of my riding is at the local trail.
Now I have been told by many that my bike is not really meant for this kinda riding and is more DH orientated.
I have just ordered a DHX 5 to replace my Van R. No one in Aust could confirm the mysterios "Sunday" tune so I just ordered a stocko.
can anyone from IH comment here? Have I bought the wrong bike for my riding and am I voiding my warranty?
Thanks
Can I ask an honest opinion here?
I bought an 07 Sunday expert (pink 888's)as my first DH bike. I wanted a DH/ freeride orientated bike and the IH website at the time said "aggressive freeride"for the Expert
The local track is probably more freeride orientated as it has some pretty big huck lines, anything between 6 -15ft drops. Most with transitions and landings. I have also been hitting more flowy DH trails but i would say 70% of my riding is at the local trail.
Now I have been told by many that my bike is not really meant for this kinda riding and is more DH orientated.
I have just ordered a DHX 5 to replace my Van R. No one in Aust could confirm the mysterios "Sunday" tune so I just ordered a stocko.
can anyone from IH comment here? Have I bought the wrong bike for my riding and am I voiding my warranty?
Thanks
I dont think you will void you warrently unless you do sesrious hucking, i think whem people say its wrong for your riding they mean low bb and slack h/a which will be harder to pedal and more sluggish on slow speed freeride tracks, but if your the kind of freerider that likes just to go fast but desnt race then the sunday will be fine.
Also you will need to get the dhx tuned and spring swapped to your weight.
Also you will need to get the dhx tuned and spring swapped to your weight.
350's way too stiff for you... go back to the 300. Anyway... you want to bottom out when you do a big stunt, otherwise you're not using all your travel, and you'll sacrifice you're ride everywhere else. Besides, the landings are all pretty smooth at oxford falls, just nose in a bit more and you'll be sweet.
a 350-400 pound spring is for a rider around 170-180 pounds on a sunday and a 300-350 for a rider 160-170. i deally if you can find a 325 TI progressive spring, that would be perfect. Drop a little PSI, turn your bottom out all the way
id beg to differ, i wiegh 170 and had a 350 pound spring on my sunday,. i bottomed a few times every run down whistler, or any other DH trail.
sounds like your DHX was set up perfectly...
(loved the DHX through the first 80% of its travel, then *BAM*)
Thanks guys, I have ordered a DHX5, and pick it up Fri. I will go back to a 300 pound spring and see how it goes with the better shock. Will keep you all posted.
Also I can get my hands on a 2nd hand set of 888 WC's. Do you think if I get them and swap out my 888 RV (OEM) fork I will notice a significant difference? Especially since I could make adjustments on the WC's? or should I just stick to the 888 RV's (reb0und adjustment only)
Sorry about the questions guys by
Also I can get my hands on a 2nd hand set of 888 WC's. Do you think if I get them and swap out my 888 RV (OEM) fork I will notice a significant difference? Especially since I could make adjustments on the WC's? or should I just stick to the 888 RV's (reb0und adjustment only)
Sorry about the questions guys by
I would agree with Daver about the spring. I am ~ 190 and run a 350 spring. Couple of bottoms this season on flatter and slower landings. I tried the stock 300 for a bit and it was OK for smother stuff....
The DHX will give you some more adjustability as to bottom control.
The DHX will give you some more adjustability as to bottom control.
Surely you mean in all the way yeah?
seriously need help now!!!!
got a sts with truvative bb set up(holzfeller) that ive just set up, got the reccomended one spacer on drive side for the cranks and one black (2mm?) e-13 spacer and basically in gears up to 5 it rubbs heavily on the top back plate, yet when i swap the black spacer for a smaller gold e-13 spacer the back of the e-13 hits on the frame!
help please....what do you run?
got a sts with truvative bb set up(holzfeller) that ive just set up, got the reccomended one spacer on drive side for the cranks and one black (2mm?) e-13 spacer and basically in gears up to 5 it rubbs heavily on the top back plate, yet when i swap the black spacer for a smaller gold e-13 spacer the back of the e-13 hits on the frame!
help please....what do you run?
call e.13.
haha yea, i didnt finish that sentence even. . wow
CJ - Riffle runs a similar set-up on his Sunday, so I'm sure the guys at e.thirteen would be the most knowledgeable people to help.
Try reaching them here:
support@e13components.com
Does anyone know who does the machining for the USA (kinesis) made Sunday frames? I am very dissappointed for the quality of the machined parts on the frame (not the DW link or the rocker but the parts welded to the tubes). At least on my 2005 factory frame the diameters for the bearings are way too small.
When I changed the bearings I found that there was aluminium flash under the upper swingarm bearings and the bearings were not pressed to the bottom. These were the original bearings pressed by Ironhorse/Kinesis. I got rid of the flash with knife but still wasn't able to press the bearings to the bottom. I also had wondered why the rockers where wider apart from each other (51.5mm) on the back than where the shock mounts to (50.0mm). I now use shims between rockers and bearings to get the 50mm width between the rockers. Well that one got sorted.
I also had very hard time fitting mainframe bearings. Under the original bearings there were flash but not as much as with the 22mm bearings. I measured the diameter of the hole to be 29.9 AND 29.8. I thing the hole wasn't completely round. Also when the bearings are in the frame they roll poorly but when I get them out they roll smooth. The hole is so tight that it compresses the outer race of the bearing to the balls and the inner race. However this doesn't seem to effect the action of the rear end and the bearings will get smoother in time so I'll stick with them.
I'm asking about the machining because it's time for a new frame and if I can't get assurance of better quality control I will get next some other frame. So how is it with the 2007 Sunday factory frames, any problems with frame itself?
P.S these prolems won't get fixed with the new linkage kit.
When I changed the bearings I found that there was aluminium flash under the upper swingarm bearings and the bearings were not pressed to the bottom. These were the original bearings pressed by Ironhorse/Kinesis. I got rid of the flash with knife but still wasn't able to press the bearings to the bottom. I also had wondered why the rockers where wider apart from each other (51.5mm) on the back than where the shock mounts to (50.0mm). I now use shims between rockers and bearings to get the 50mm width between the rockers. Well that one got sorted.
I also had very hard time fitting mainframe bearings. Under the original bearings there were flash but not as much as with the 22mm bearings. I measured the diameter of the hole to be 29.9 AND 29.8. I thing the hole wasn't completely round. Also when the bearings are in the frame they roll poorly but when I get them out they roll smooth. The hole is so tight that it compresses the outer race of the bearing to the balls and the inner race. However this doesn't seem to effect the action of the rear end and the bearings will get smoother in time so I'll stick with them.
I'm asking about the machining because it's time for a new frame and if I can't get assurance of better quality control I will get next some other frame. So how is it with the 2007 Sunday factory frames, any problems with frame itself?
P.S these prolems won't get fixed with the new linkage kit.
EDIT:
O.K. - you want the rebound on the rear set up where it's fast enough that the rear end won't pack down, but slow enough that you won't get bucked over the handlebars going over large obstalces or landing jumps/drop. Basically experiment - it's one of those settings that is different for everyone (depends on rider weight, spring rate, and what kind of shock you have) otherwise I'd give an actual setting.
08' Frames should be shipping within the next few weeks. I'll get in touch with the front office tomorrow and try to get a more definitive answer for you.
Hope this helps.
Swap the words slow and fast around and you're correct.
Basically though, you want the rebound set as fast as you can handle without bucking you around... and the rear should always be a *little* slower than the front. But so many people run rebound too slow, it's well worth trying to run it faster (especially on the front if you are running adequate LSC). It'll be awkward if you go all at once, but a click or two a day (or run) should make the transition easy, and will reward you with better traction, better bump absorption and a more active bike.
LOL...
DOH!
...that's what 3hrs. of sleep will do to a guy.
My bad. Fixed it.
:biggrin:
DOH!
...that's what 3hrs. of sleep will do to a guy.
My bad. Fixed it.
:biggrin: