The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section

Dirt 1st · May 26, 2008

Yes IH have to get their sh!t together on this one, a shock that is fast getting a reputation for extremely high maintenance, out of 5 WC's in our family fun day rides 2 have failed 1 went to DHX 5.0
and that leaves me and another to suffer the fate
I cant beleve that the only compatable spring for a WC with a vivid is
a 300Lb spring, you got to be kidding.
this is a bike that is at the extream high end scale of price that you would never dream of having these issues, someone needs their ass
kicked over this stuff up in spring shock combo. I am eagerly awaiting a reply to the various questions i have submited to them
and they better be good.
this is one pissed off IH owner

klunky · May 26, 2008

Sending snotty emails to company's gets you knowhere fast in my experience... It is possible to be stern yet understanding without looking like an asshat who's email gets left till last you know. I.H. have said that they are looking into the problem and yes its annoying but its not like they have told you that the spring will not work and that you therefore need a new frame! give them a few days to a week and see what they say.

bikemuscle · May 29, 2008

Dirt 1st said:
G'day,
I have been lurking around this thread for a while absorbing some of
the great information that is all things Sunday.
I currently own a 08 WC Iron horse Sunday that I race in my local
series and after a spring change from the standard Rock Shock 300lb
spring to a 400lb genuine Rock Shock spring I am having the same issues that some other
WC owners are having, the spring rubs against the frame, just like the previous post
I am currently in negotiations with Iron Horse to resolve this issue

I thought I was the only one! It's really upsetting, especially when you spend so much money on a frame. I've been in contact with Iron Horse and so has my shop, and what I have experienced thus far is that their customer service has been nonexistent. They never even replied to my original email several weeks ago. Phone calls don't get returned as promised. I had to escalate this matter to the supervisor and I still have not received a call back. I'm asking for a new frame because the shock is not centered and is damaging one side of the frame, which could also compromise the integrity of the frame. I don't think I'm being unreasonable. The consumer should not be penalized for a mistake that the manufacture made.
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/images/smilies/plthumbsdown.gif

lthumbsdown:

The picture is the inside of the frame with the Vivid shock out.

Dirt 1st · May 31, 2008

Any news as of the outcome?
as i have a "family fun day ride" next weekend that is very important
and i need the ride the steed. this is what i bought this horse for :-(
sick of riding the Norco not the same performance :-(

bikemuscle · Jun 1, 2008

My shop was kind of enough to swap the Vivid for the DHX 5.0
I guess this is what was originally offered but IH never sent them the shock. I also heard something about Rockshox designing a new spring but thats just hear say.

When comparing the two shocks heres what I noticed:

25% sag vs 33% with my vivid with the same size spring 450lb
The Fox was sitting higher in the travel
When riding DH @ Telonics:
The bike felt much livelier
It was more fun to flick around
It felt more plush over the ruff stuff
I didnt grind my cranks as much

cross country riding @ the Fullerton loop
On the steep climbs when out to the saddle I didnt have to pull up on the bars as much to keep the rear end tracking. Yeah this thing can climb, its tiring though but I need the cardio.

The shock still sits more over to the right side of the bike with 1 mm or so of clearance, but it works. Never heard back from IH though.

jbrookeiv · Jun 2, 2008

Thanks SKC,
One more question. I don't have to use the spacers with the MAX-E bearings, correct?

CarlE · Jun 2, 2008

jbrookeiv said:
Thanks SKC,
One more question. I don't have to use the spacers with the MAX-E bearings, correct?

Correct, the spacer is built into the bearing.

wil_e123 · Jun 2, 2008

I know it's a long shot asking on here, but can anyone send me a HIGH RESOLUTION Ironhorse logo?

When I say high res, i mean big enough to make stickers to go on a trailor...that kinda size.

(photoshop format would be highly appreciated, although i'd understand that's going to be pretty hard for me to get!!!!)

cheers!!!

Edit: otherwise, if anyone can identify the font that the guys at 'Horse selected for their logo, i'd be glad to design the whole thing myself and pass the result around!!!!

wil_e123 · Jun 3, 2008

Thanks man, PM sent!

Santa Maria · Jun 3, 2008

Hi S.K.C or CarlE!

What's the seat clamp size of a 07 MKIII?

Thanx

Santa

CarlE · Jun 3, 2008

Santa Maria said:
Hi S.K.C or CarlE!

What's the seat clamp size of a 07 MKIII?

Thanx

Santa

34.9 or for the companies that round up 35.

pelo · Jun 3, 2008

Warranty issue with RS? :shocked:

Don´t know the hole story behind this, but that is very generous by RS. Definitely cheaper to make new springs.

Santa Maria · Jun 3, 2008

CarlE said:
34.9 or for the companies that round up 35.

Thank you very much, thats the quickest customer service in the world!

xemini · Jun 4, 2008

is it alright to tighten my 07 sunday shock bolts without a torque wrench?

Carnaza · Jun 4, 2008

xemini said:
is it alright to tighten my 07 sunday shock bolts without a torque wrench?

i hope so ¡¡¡

honestly i don´t know how much people have a torque wrench in their tool box...

i just use my "handmeter"

xemini · Jun 4, 2008

yeah I would say just snug tight and not overdoing it...

xemini · Jun 5, 2008

ok im trying to get my lower shock bolt out, but the damn thing won't budge. i have an 07 an followed the instructions on the first page, but its like its seized in there it will not come loose, any suggestions?

xemini · Jun 5, 2008

yes i loosened the m6 bolts and tried tapping the shock pin but it will not budge at all

edit: now i have the hex off and both bolts and taping to get it out the non-drive side and the pin will still not budge... nobody had this? its like my pin is seized, im scared to hit it any harder i don't know what to do... I don't want to just put it back together like this ..

Winston · Jun 5, 2008

I think the jumbo-hex pivot caps need to be on and not loose.

My mechanic was having a hell of time trying to remove the lower shock pin, only to discover one of the jumbo-hex pivot caps was loose. After he tightened it down, he was able to get the lower shock pin out.

Good luck.

xemini · Jun 5, 2008

just tried to have both hex's tightened and still the pin is jammed in there im running out of options the damn thing won't even budge a bit i don't know whats going on

davep · Jun 5, 2008

Ok so the lower shock mount consists of a pin with an expanding wedge end, and a flat head hex bolt that expands that wedge.

1 remove the small bolt all the way
2 see if you can rotate the 'pin' that is left in the frame
3 find a thin shaft of some sort to insert into the pin from the expanding side. You want something thin enough to slide all the way in, without contacting the expanding wedges (think thin phillips screwdriver or 4mm rod stock)
4 tap the shaft with a hammer (preferably a dead blow) to remove the pin. Any weight on the shock mount will make this harder (either weight on the bike, or the weight of the rear hanging)
5 if the pin will rotate, rotate it while you hammer

6 IF non of this works, lay the frame down with the removed-bolt-side up, and drip some penetrating lube (wd 40 might work..but not the best) around the pin and let it sit.

Go back to part 1...

FYI, this is a perfect example of why the bike frames should be broken down and properly lubed/antisiezed/loc-tited at every pivot/bolt/bearing/etc before they are ever ridden....

xemini · Jun 5, 2008

yeah, so i tried about everything and it still won't budge, i cant turn it,or tap it out. im going to have to just leave it and put the bolts back in..

Whoops · Jun 5, 2008

xemini said:
yeah, so i tried about everything and it still won't budge, i cant turn it,or tap it out. im going to have to just leave it and put the bolts back in..

Its a longshot... but try heating / cooling the parts to give you some extra help.

General Lee · Jun 5, 2008

davep said:
Ok so the lower shock mount consists of a pin with an expanding wedge end, and a flat head hex bolt that expands that wedge.

1 remove the small bolt all the way
2 see if you can rotate the 'pin' that is left in the frame
3 find a thin shaft of some sort to insert into the pin from the expanding side. You want something thin enough to slide all the way in, without contacting the expanding wedges (think thin phillips screwdriver or 4mm rod stock)
4 tap the shaft with a hammer (preferably a dead blow) to remove the pin. Any weight on the shock mount will make this harder (either weight on the bike, or the weight of the rear hanging)
5 if the pin will rotate, rotate it while you hammer

6 IF non of this works, lay the frame down with the removed-bolt-side up, and drip some penetrating lube (wd 40 might work..but not the best) around the pin and let it sit.

Go back to part 1...

FYI, this is a perfect example of why the bike frames should be broken down and properly lubed/antisiezed/loc-tited at every pivot/bolt/bearing/etc before they are ever ridden....

Truer words cannot be spoken. But I'd add that it's a good idea to repeat this process with shock pins and any other high tolerance frame parts (on any frame) at least once a month to avoid seizing and keep things clean and lubed. regular maintenance or pay the price

Gary · Jun 6, 2008

I had the same problem, asked my local Iron horse dealer for advice (works on loads of Sundays). He said to remove the two hex bolts and then the pin would come out easier. - he was right.
try that.

xemini · Jun 6, 2008

yeah its probably my fault for leaving it in too long without maintenance, i've tried everything.. both hex's tight it won't budge, both hex's completely off it won't budge, put tri-flow and wd-40 around the pin still won't budge, looks like im just going to put it back together and try in a week or something, see if the lube loosens it up by that time...

wil_e123 · Jun 6, 2008

try it in 2 or 3 days...don't leave it too long for the lube to set in (the bolts might be real tight, but you don't wnat them to loosen up in the middle of a run...that happened to me last year after putting too much lube on one of the shock pins that eventually leaked out)...

Otherwise, try and get to a bike shop that has one of those extractor tools, they might be able to help you there...

Lollapalooza · Jun 6, 2008

So I have a Vivid on order (I'm positive the spring weight I get won't rub). I weigh 135 lbs fully geared up and I'm wondering if that dropping 50lbs for Vivids rule is true. It seems like you shouldn't have to drop a spring weight. Anyway, for people my weight on Vivids, are you running a 200 or 250 spring?

woof · Jun 9, 2008

S.K.C. said:
*UPDATE:

Hey - I just wanted to let everyone know that I will be turning over the "Sunday Thread" to the Tech. and Customer support at Iron Horse.

From now on CarlE. and the rest of the guys will be here to help you with anything you need.

I have a full release on the front page explaining things a bit better.

Take Care - and see you out on the mountain!

S.K.C.

What in the world are you going to do with all your free time now. Thanks for everything :cheers:

pelo · Jun 10, 2008

Yes, thanks for your eternal energy in the mysterious subject "Sunday". It´s been very helpful.

Santa Maria · Jun 10, 2008

pelo said:
Yes, thanks for your eternal energy in the mysterious subject "Sunday". It´s been very helpful.

Thank's man, great job!

Keep riding your horse :clapping:

contactjt · Jun 10, 2008

davep said:
Ok so the lower shock mount consists of a pin with an expanding wedge end, and a flat head hex bolt that expands that wedge.

1 remove the small bolt all the way
2 see if you can rotate the 'pin' that is left in the frame
3 find a thin shaft of some sort to insert into the pin from the expanding side. You want something thin enough to slide all the way in, without contacting the expanding wedges (think thin phillips screwdriver or 4mm rod stock)
4 tap the shaft with a hammer (preferably a dead blow) to remove the pin. Any weight on the shock mount will make this harder (either weight on the bike, or the weight of the rear hanging)
5 if the pin will rotate, rotate it while you hammer

6 IF non of this works, lay the frame down with the removed-bolt-side up, and drip some penetrating lube (wd 40 might work..but not the best) around the pin and let it sit.

Go back to part 1...

FYI, this is a perfect example of why the bike frames should be broken down and properly lubed/antisiezed/loc-tited at every pivot/bolt/bearing/etc before they are ever ridden....

Shouldn't the shock pin be tapped out from the non expanding end. I.e. remove both hex bolts (one each side) and tap the non expanding side so the pin comes out expanding end first. My shaft is stepped, and you can't knock it out by tapping the pin from the expanding side. I know this may be obvious, but people may be mislead by your post.

As another note, my pin is 2 mths old, and the hex bolt is siezed into the shock pin on the expanding side, i've tried quite a few mehtods and still can't get it apart.

Further reasons to take everything apart and lube it day one.

JT

davep · Jun 10, 2008

contactjt said:
Shouldn't the shock pin be tapped out from the non expanding end. I.e. remove both hex bolts (one each side) and tap the non expanding side so the pin comes out expanding end first. My shaft is stepped, and you can't knock it out by tapping the pin from the expanding side. I know this may be obvious, but people may be mislead by your post.

As another note, my pin is 2 mths old, and the hex bolt is siezed into the shock pin on the expanding side, i've tried quite a few mehtods and still can't get it apart.

Further reasons to take everything apart and lube it day one.

JT

I think you may be correct....been a while since I have had mine apart...Either way, a quick look in there should tell someone how it should come apart. It is also shown on the JPG on IH's site, and the first page here.

IMO, replacing the hardware with something with a larger hex, would eleminate a bit of these problems.

CarlE · Jun 10, 2008

contactjt said:
Shouldn't the shock pin be tapped out from the non expanding end. I.e. remove both hex bolts (one each side) and tap the non expanding side so the pin comes out expanding end first. My shaft is stepped, and you can't knock it out by tapping the pin from the expanding side. I know this may be obvious, but people may be mislead by your post.

As another note, my pin is 2 mths old, and the hex bolt is siezed into the shock pin on the expanding side, i've tried quite a few mehtods and still can't get it apart.

Further reasons to take everything apart and lube it day one.

JT

Yes, this is correct. The shock pin can only be removed in one direction - towards the expanding side - as there's a step in the black main cap.

xemini · Jun 11, 2008

lower shock pin removal - after lubing it and let it be for a few days i tried again and still cannot get it out, looks like im going to have to just leave it which isn't very good.. oh well

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