[freshwire]

WOW...as with most things "bike" it is sounding more and more like this would be better carried out by a professional...I've found a bearing kit from Pearce cycles in the UK...$90 for a full set!!! I'm going to try EC cycles as well...from an earlier poster...

I can TOTALLY see myself efing up at least one pivot bearing while trying to beat it into submission...I may just take all the crap down to the local LBS and have the tech replace the pivots...I'm just not tooled up for it, and I'd go all kinds of postal if I were to screw up ANY of those rare and insanely expensive bearings!!!

 

[OG4LIFE]

The bearings themselves are pretty hardy, but messing up the aluminum frame bores is what I was worried about. Force a bearing in all cockeyed would not be the best thing for the frame or the links, which are even more rare! I'm sure you could do it with some patience, but it is a nice feeling to know that if the shop did hose it up, you can tell them to fix their wrong

 

[freshwire]

oh yeah...not to mention frame damage...which would render me suicidal...since this will be my LAST dh rig until the economy picks up...and God only knows when that will be.

The rep at Pearce cycles told me he would only give this procedure to his most seasoned mechanics...and STRONGLY urged me not to "learn" how to press bearings in on my Sunday...with home-made tools!!!!

Thanks for the info...I'm powder coating the frame for next season...I'm going from jet black to pearl white...I'll post pics of the new paint job when it comes back...keep the rubber down!!!

 

[saruti]

if you are going to powder coat your frame,
do it with the old bearing in it.
than take them out and put on the new ones
I did it the first time I've painted my frame and it was real easy
the second time I've painted my frame (month ago) I took the old bearings out' strip the color and than powder coat it... it was a big mistake.
the new bearings didn’t want to go in.... and i brake 2 new bearings..
so I had to take some of the color off the bearings hole to make room for the new ones.
now everything is ok

so my advise.. Paint it with the old bearings in.

 

[romankalo]

Hi, I have update:

I have just taken old bearings from chainstay and they are spinning like new. I've put them on lower link and tighten blood from them and they are absolutely smooth. But... when it was assembled in with the chainstay there was play and bearings were not spinning at all after tightening.

So there are 3 possibilities :

1. after assembling and tightening bearings stop spinning because the lower link is little worn from inner rings of bearings and so the inner rings are pressed to much

2. holes for bearings in chainstay are misaligned

3. bearings were incorrectly pressed into chainstay because of this :

Unfortunately I have not done press tool for bearings yet, so I cannot eliminate 3rd option. Have somebody seen something like that before? Thanks

 

[SylentK]

Not sure what to do about your bearings not spinning. But if things were mis-aligned then you wouldn't have been able to bolt everything together.

As for your play, you need to identify where it is coming from. Use a finger or two and feel each possible pivot, bearing, linkage for movement. Do this while pushing/pulling various parts of the bike in question with the other hand. Once you know where the play is coming from, you can then identify the root cause.

 

[bishop]

Hi everyone,

I am looking for repair frame kit for iron horse 7point5 19" from 2006. I sent email to carlE@ironhorsebikes.com but he never replied for my email.
Can enyone help me please???
Send me PM.

Cheers

 

[davep]

Iron horse went out of business over a year ago. The company is dead and gone!

You might want to try randal scott cycles: http://www.rscycle.com/ the owner is related to the past owner of Iron Horse, and they have been the only Iron Horse dealer in the USA for the past 2+ years

 

[dyno]

What's the general opinon on the hammerschmidt being used on the 6point? I've spent the past couple days searching and it seems most questions regarding hammerschmidt and dw-link are on the Sunday oddly enough. The only comments of value that I've found is that on DW's blog he talks about having three front rings being a good thing for suspension design on a trail-type bike, which makes me think that it's implied that using a hammerschmidt on a 6point could have a negative effect on the suspension.

 

[Sandwich]

What's the general opinon on the hammerschmidt being used on the 6point? I've spent the past couple days searching and it seems most questions regarding hammerschmidt and dw-link are on the Sunday oddly enough. The only comments of value that I've found is that on DW's blog he talks about having three front rings being a good thing for suspension design on a trail-type bike, which makes me think that it's implied that using a hammerschmidt on a 6point could have a negative effect on the suspension.

Not sure this belongs in this thread, but I'll have a go at an answer...

I'm willing to bet what he's talking about is that the three different chainrings allow you three different angles of chain torque, for three different intended uses and consequences. In other words, if you're in the small ring, you're probably climbing, which means some amount of torque feedback could be beneficial. If you're in the middle ring, mostly neutral would likely be best. And in the big ring, you're likely hammering and you want the suspension to be as supple as possible with no feedback. A hammershmidt will give you only one angle, and probably the lowest since it's a relatively small chainring, I think. Therefore, you'll only have that small ring/climbing suspension action, and that's relatively purpose specific.

Just a though, I'm not DW and I can't read his mind, but that's the only reason I can think of that three rings would be good on a suspension design. For most cases, a HS would be of even more use, since there's zero effect on the suspension in either "ring", but I can see some lockout being good when climbing.

 

[dyno]

Sorry if this should have had it's own thread. There doesn't seem to be a lot of talk on Iron Horse outside of this thread lately, so I thought I'd first try here.

That's basically the description given in DW's blog on the topic of three ring setups. I don't actually have the 6point yet (picking it up soon), so I'm not even familiar with how the dw-link pedals in granny gear to be able to judge whether or not the HS would be a good thing or very bad thing.

 

[Sandwich]

I would say if the actual chainring size on the HS, regardless of ratio, measures out to be around a middle ring (IE 32 28-34tooth) you'll probably find that the bike rides just fine. You wouldn't get any added benefits, but it should be a detriment. If it's less than that, it puts you in granny ring territory and the bike may ride funny, depending on how it's designed.

edit: hey, you could also post in the e13 forum, since DW is very good about answering questions there...

 

[TOMTOMTHERED]

Hi i have an 08 sunday expert. I want to know where the frame was made. Were they made in usa or taiwan? Also i think its about time i upgraded my shock. I still have the marrazocchi roco that came with it but im not sure what is the best shock for the frame to replace it with. Ive been told to get a dhx5 but i would like a second opinion. CHEERS

 

[Muttely]

So, dont hate on me for this, im only doing this as a favour to my friend, hes an E-Tard, he wants to know what settings are reccomended as he's getting flipped OTB every few runs by his revolt?

 

[Dox]

So, dont hate on me for this, im only doing this as a favour to my friend, hes an E-Tard, he wants to know what settings are reccomended as he's getting flipped OTB every few runs by his revolt?

Hummm... Faster rebound is the key!

 

[P.T.W]

So, dont hate on me for this, im only doing this as a favour to my friend, hes an E-Tard, he wants to know what settings are reccomended as he's getting flipped OTB every few runs by his revolt?

Not hating on you but..... Seems your friend isnt the only E-Tard. This thread is the DW-Link/Sunday thread. May i direct your baiting/**** stirring/ bs to the Evil Revolt thread.

 

[Dsunday]

I have been searching through this thread and i can't really find an answer to a question i have?

Is there a how to or another resource for the Sunday? Considering it is/was such a popular bike there doesnt seem to be much in the way guides or technical manuals for it other than this thread.

either that or im desperate at googling!!

 

[davep]

The process for removing every bolt, nut, washer, as well as shock tuning, shock fit, link mods, etc has pretty much been covered (most multiple times) here in this thread.

There is also an exploded diagram in the first page that should be enough to let you know how everything is assembled, and thus how it comes apart.


AFAIK, there were no other documents from IH...just plenty of DW helping out on various forums.

 

[pwngemn]

if i got a vivid 5.1 for my 08 sunday team, would the tuning on the vivid be a, b, or c?

 

[Dsunday]

thanks Davep, It was actually an answer you gave that was close to what i was looking for but not quite.

My upper main pivot (the one through the frame) has play and i was trying to disassemble it and investigate. It seems like the bolts are bottoming out before tightening fully and i wanted to know first how to get the bar out (one side keeps spinning) and also should i shim the bearings or the drill the counter sink or maybe shave some of the pivot bar??

thanks
bryan

 

[davep]

if i got a vivid 5.1 for my 08 sunday team, would the tuning on the vivid be a, b, or c?

If it came stock on the Sunday, it would be an 'A' tune. It should (unless you somehow have a non-production shock) have the tune engraved right on the shock.

 

[davep]

thanks Davep, It was actually an answer you gave that was close to what i was looking for but not quite.

My upper main pivot (the one through the frame) has play and i was trying to disassemble it and investigate. It seems like the bolts are bottoming out before tightening fully and i wanted to know first how to get the bar out (one side keeps spinning) and also should i shim the bearings or the drill the counter sink or maybe shave some of the pivot bar??

thanks
bryan

That pivot is quite different than the upper shock link that I had an issue with. The bearings are in the link (outboard) and the pivot should stay stationary (WRT the frame)...the oposite of the upper shock link. If you are having movement, I dont think that countersinking the bolts further will be much help.

My first thought would be that the pivot shaft would be loose in the frame boss (radial movement rather than axial) and that is a pretty simple fix. The key is proper cylindrical retaining compound (loctite 680 etc) NOT typical blue or red thread compound. Essentially any of the shaft contact surfaces (inner bearing races, or frame boss) should have a good film of 680 on them before assembly to prevent movement and dis-similar metal issues.

The reality is that this should be done with every single press fit assembly on any and all full suspension bike, but unfortunately it is not.

As far as getting the shaft out, you will need to re-install and tighten the side you removed. Then try to break the 'problem' side free. Obviously once you loosen one side, the shaft can turn freely, making it very difficult to remove the second side (unless of couse you think of these things like a good mfg and hex broach inside the shaft for an allen..ie Turner).

If all else fails you can simply remove the shaft attached to the stuck link plate in one piece.

 

[pwngemn]

if i bought a 'b tuned', would that be bad for my frame? how significant does tuning make it?

 

[davep]

I guess it depends on several things. The 'specially tuned DHX' that came on my Sunday still had too much rebound damping (that was supposed to be the significant change to make the sunday tune), was not progressive enough to deal with the linear wheel rate, and would not open up enough fast chop...IMO. Custom tuning (Push)fixed all of those issues for me.


You can get the 'A' tune parts cheaply from just about any bike shop (BTI (major parts distributor) has them in stock if you are in the USA) and all you need to know, the tools required, and complete 'how-to' for the change over is available on the sram site. Certainly worth it IMO (even more so if you are on the lighter side).

 

[rawcan]

Does anyone know were to get replacement bearings for e13 headset reducer cups?

 

[m.m.w.]

You could ask for replacement bearings for one of the mentioned headsets: http://www.e13components.com/product_zerostack.html

 

[davep]

They are standard IS headset bearings, available from a number of headset mfg, as well as several aftermarket bearing suppliers. Between FSA, Cane Creek, and ABI/Enduro, there are at least 6 different options.

 

[cubebiker]

Try Acros Ai-24R1, that one lasts in my reducer already a long time and seems to keep running

 

[rawcan]

Thanks guys, all the info was helpfull.

 

[cubebiker]

OK guys, I have a absolutely new Sunday Frame here and I already cannot get the lower shock pin out of the large HEX bolt. The expanding side seems to have too much expanded. What to do now? I just wanted to replace the shock and am now sitting in front of that problem...

 

[saruti]

maybe you are trying to get it out from the wrong side?
if you are sure about the side... take a long bolt (the same diameter like the one you took out) and put it in alittle,
than hammer it till the other side go out.

 

[m.m.w.]

The expanding side seems to have too much expanded.

I don't think that's possible. There might be other reasons for it not to move, but not so much on a brandnew frame.

What have you tried until now??

 

[BMCarter]

To anyone running the RC4: What are your settings?

I normally don't ask these questions, but I just got my shock installed tonight and wont be able to ride the bike until practice at the next race. Just looking for some baseline setups.

Thanks,
Brent

 

[Sandwich]

To anyone running the RC4: What are your settings?

I normally don't ask these questions, but I just got my shock installed tonight and wont be able to ride the bike until practice at the next race. Just looking for some baseline setups.

Thanks,
Brent

did you end up toying with the link, or does it fit by itself? I was under the impression that you would need to cut sections of the link out

 

[BMCarter]

Haha, oh yeah. LSC adjuster and the piggyback hit the link after a couple inches of travel.

I have the 08 Frame, so the link has "better" shock fitment, but after my modifications the lower link has next to no cross supports. The smaller of the 2 is gone, and the large one is almost completely removed. Not a big concern, I have no reservations about the modifications, I hated the Vivid that much.

 

[romankalo]

Hi, my RC4 should arrive in next couple of days. Could you post some pics of that link? Thanks

 

[Asafus]

Here is another question

Hey there,

I search and understood that people here have been anodizing
parts of their bike.

I wanted to know if I can anodize my whole IronHorse Sunday 2005 frame?
Does someone know about damage to weldings or something?

another question:
Should I strip everything? such as BB and Headset? and all of the bearings?

Thank's guys,
Asaf, Israel.

 

[OG4LIFE]

I am going through that process (striping) as well on my Specialized. I contacted a large anodizing company and was told that they don't do bike frames because chemicals can get trapt inside the frame and cause damage to the aluminum. I have decided against anodizing at this point. As far as stripping the frames goes; I have mine totally taken down to aluminum and NOTHING else. May just run it raw or polished. If you go with powder coat, make sure you mask off the bearing bores with plugs or high temp tape.

 

[ocelot]

i own a 2006 7point5 and i'm really confused about the proper eye to eye length for the shock... the 5th element currently fitted on my bike is 8.75". the 2006 catalog states that it's a 9". the other 7points for the same year have either 8.75 or 9 as their shock length. were the 7points meant to run either of these lengths?
just to make sure, eye to eye is the distance between the center of one eye to the other?
thanks

 

[yetihenry]

How do I tell if a link is vivid compatible? It is green, indicating 08 sunday factory, but the rest of the links are green too so I cant be sure the whole link hasnt been anodised. Anyone have side by side pictures? Or tell me what looks different to my 07 link?