Aye i understand this, but you haven't really answered my question haha.
Which bearings set, 05-06 or 07-09?
So i need 07-09 as my linkage plates are 08 or 09?
Cheers again!
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
Which bearings set, 05-06 or 07-09?
So i need 07-09 as my linkage plates are 08 or 09?
Cheers again!
can't comment on your bearings, but see page 54 or so for info on how to loctite your bearings. That may help with play in the pivots.
it's possible that the bearings ovalised the linkage from being too loose, or there may just have been bad tolerances at the factory.
Either way, there is supposedly some form of loctite (not the blue threadlocker) that will help to fill the gaps in where the bearings are.
it would like meet another partner
I have an 06 Sunday where one of the bolts came loose and got lost from the top shock mount. Does anyone know what size bolt it is (it's not the same as the 07 diagram)?
Also, after taking the rear end apart to remove the shock, I'm having a hard time removing the pin, without it removing the bushing as well. Is that supposed to be hard to remove? I've been tapping it with a ball peen.
Thanks,
Zach
Also, after taking the rear end apart to remove the shock, I'm having a hard time removing the pin, without it removing the bushing as well. Is that supposed to be hard to remove? I've been tapping it with a ball peen.
Thanks,
Zach
Has anyone tried a dhx with the new push mx tune on their sunday?
Has anybody had trouble removing their seatstay bolts (Number 10 in the Sunday diagram)?
I have rounded my two, which were blue loctited in.
There only shallow dome headed 5mm heads and made of cheese by the looks of things!!
I really think i've tried nearly everything but if anyone has another idea please do let me know...thanks.
So far ive tried..
1. Superglue the allen key to the bolt
2. Slightly larger non-metric allen key
3. soaked in WD-40, then Dremmeled a slot in the bole head and tried a large flat head Screwdriver.
4. used shock & unlock freeze spray/penetrating fluid and an AXE! for more leverage!
5. tried a soldering iron on the bolts but dont think it worked well, bolt never got hot all the way through anyway
6. tried using them reverse screw extractors, drilled a small pilot hole but couldnt get the screw extractor to bite at all....no instructions with them so maybe im using em wrong.. anyone used them before??
I am at a loss as to what to do now and hope it wont involve wrecking the frame getting them out now!
How there so tight is beyond me!! But Ironhorse really put sh*te bolts in there!
ANY help much appreciated!
I have rounded my two, which were blue loctited in.
There only shallow dome headed 5mm heads and made of cheese by the looks of things!!
I really think i've tried nearly everything but if anyone has another idea please do let me know...thanks.
So far ive tried..
1. Superglue the allen key to the bolt
2. Slightly larger non-metric allen key
3. soaked in WD-40, then Dremmeled a slot in the bole head and tried a large flat head Screwdriver.
4. used shock & unlock freeze spray/penetrating fluid and an AXE! for more leverage!
5. tried a soldering iron on the bolts but dont think it worked well, bolt never got hot all the way through anyway
6. tried using them reverse screw extractors, drilled a small pilot hole but couldnt get the screw extractor to bite at all....no instructions with them so maybe im using em wrong.. anyone used them before??
I am at a loss as to what to do now and hope it wont involve wrecking the frame getting them out now!
How there so tight is beyond me!! But Ironhorse really put sh*te bolts in there!
ANY help much appreciated!
doesn't fit. res is too big.
without looking at the actual diagram, I think mine are locked up and rounded off too. I plan on riding her till she splodes then getting something else, so I'm not overly worried about it, but I would also try:
PB Blaster penetrating lube....not WD40, way better. This **** gets in there and eats away at solvents and rust. Hopefully it will get at your loctite as well.
Secondly, use a flame wrench. Have a backup bearing ready, but nuke that sucker with a blow torch until it smokes. It'll back right out. I've been using my torch all over my New England cars for the past few weeks...nothing beats a good flaming. You'll probably toast the bearing and you might f- up the paint, but keep the flame on the bolt and you should make out alright.
Rode the good old Sunday yesterday - still love that old bike.
oh yeah, i don't know where you're located, but your local FLAPS (fav. local auto parts store) should have a propane torch on the shelf.
lol yes the Axe was a bit extreme but i was getting desperate! it fitted the slot perfect and gave loads of leverage but still no joy.
Whats the best way to heat the bolts without damaging the frame?
I have spare bearings but dont really want to risk damaging the frame...
Would heating a rod or something similar red hot and placing it against the bolt work?
This is the freeze stuff i tried..pretty crap to be honest
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_274625_langId_-1_categoryId_165594#dtab
Whats the best way to heat the bolts without damaging the frame?
I have spare bearings but dont really want to risk damaging the frame...
Would heating a rod or something similar red hot and placing it against the bolt work?
This is the freeze stuff i tried..pretty crap to be honest
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_274625_langId_-1_categoryId_165594#dtab
you're going to have to heat the bolt or female threads directly, the whole idea with the blowtorch is to stop being a pu$$y with easy-outs and torx bits and whatever... the frame should be fine.
been through the whole thing with those 22mm hexes where I decided to red loctite the threads.... a boxxer stanchion worth of leverage still wouldn't make the thing budge, but the blowtorch made easy work of it.
keep in mind that the torch method assumes that loctite is the reason your bolt is stuck, if it's just really tight or seized then it might not help.
been through the whole thing with those 22mm hexes where I decided to red loctite the threads.... a boxxer stanchion worth of leverage still wouldn't make the thing budge, but the blowtorch made easy work of it.
keep in mind that the torch method assumes that loctite is the reason your bolt is stuck, if it's just really tight or seized then it might not help.
Cheers..... ya guess ill have to just go at it!
Just its a new frame (well 8months old)
ah well...
I didnt over tighten them and its not that old so cant imagine seized so im guessing its the loctite!
So torch it is!!
putting in big head 6mm fu*k off replacements thats for sure!
Just its a new frame (well 8months old)
ah well...I didnt over tighten them and its not that old so cant imagine seized so im guessing its the loctite!
So torch it is!!
putting in big head 6mm fu*k off replacements thats for sure!
like Udi said, heat it directly. It shouldn't damage the aluminum unless you get it red hot then bang on it with a hammer. Just focus the flame nice and tight and get the blue part on the bolt alone. Give it 20 seconds or less the first time. See if it gives. Try it again with 30 seconds if not. Try spraying a little blaster in there first, as the heat may help it penetrate further. It's probably locite if it's a relatively new frame. Can you see the bolt from the back? That might be another way of getting at it with penetrant.
Yes you can see the bolt from the back, it sticks out slightly (1-2mm)
Ive sprayed that good and will try heat it from behind first as the bearings sit out front and I don't want to risk distorting the bearing seats.
Although there is more bolt out front so ill see..
thanks for all the help!
Ive sprayed that good and will try heat it from behind first as the bearings sit out front and I don't want to risk distorting the bearing seats.
Although there is more bolt out front so ill see..
thanks for all the help!
I need a rear triangle for my sunday any help?
Hi all.
I'm thinking of putting a DHX 4 airshock into my IH 7point to save a bit of weight (am riding more trails than AM at the moment, but don't want to give up the burliness).
Thoughts? Good idea? Bad idea?
I'm thinking of putting a DHX 4 airshock into my IH 7point to save a bit of weight (am riding more trails than AM at the moment, but don't want to give up the burliness).
Thoughts? Good idea? Bad idea?
Keep searching until you find somebody with a broken front triangle.
shouldn't be a problem. Some were spec'ed with a DHX air, right? I think the main problem with the DHXAIR was that it heated up and changed springrates or damping properties. That shouldn't be a problem for trail since A) you aren't putting that kind of heat into it, and B) the sensation will probably not be noticeable.
isolate the source of the play then use loctite 609 or whatever to fill in the gaps....
I talked to the guys at push and they said that as long as your using the F7 linkage (or the red DW link) that it all fits in fine. The reservoir looks about as long as the stock DHX res. Did you get it done and have it not fit or are you just going on assumption or something?
I'm going on what push posted when they announced the MX tune. I axed whether it would fit on a sunday and they said no dice...maybe it has changed, or maybe it was wrong? I don't know or care, that's just what they posted.
Why would the red fit but now the lastest one?
Why would the red fit but now the lastest one?
I need a lower link and a rear end for my sunday, anyone selling? thanks
I *may* be selling my sunday world cup frame. Black, old, no cracks or damage. Pretty cheap. Just feel like trying something else next year. Size medium. Ride it as is and keep your parts for backup...or swap over your front triangle to my back end...whatever....
Just gauging interest, I'll put up a classified if I really want to sell.
Just gauging interest, I'll put up a classified if I really want to sell.
What rise stem do you guys use on your sundays?
I've a small frame, 15mm Rise 750mm bars and a 0Degree rise 45mm stem and flat crown boxxers.
I'm thinking it may actually have me to far over the front and I was gonna get a 50mm 30Degree stem.
I have plenty of steerer left so im gonna rise up the bars this weekend but just wondering is there any standard setup for sundays.. IE low as possible at the front or fairly high etc...
I've a small frame, 15mm Rise 750mm bars and a 0Degree rise 45mm stem and flat crown boxxers.
I'm thinking it may actually have me to far over the front and I was gonna get a 50mm 30Degree stem.
I have plenty of steerer left so im gonna rise up the bars this weekend but just wondering is there any standard setup for sundays.. IE low as possible at the front or fairly high etc...
Are you using a direct mount stem, or standard one?
standard operating procedure for a sunday is to drop the bars as far as possible. This is, from what I've read, due to the BB being so low that it throws normal geometry out of whack. So, to compensate, you drop the bars way down, and you have a normal position.
I run a sunline stem, which is like 0 or 5* rise, 50mm, and a kore 20mm rise/800mm wide (I know I know) setup, and it feels pretty good without being too low in any situation. I don't think I'd want to go flat or drop stem.
It's hard to suggest to you what you should do without seeing the bike or knowing what kind of stem you are using, but my first inclination would be to get higher rise bars but keep the same stem. If you're too far over the front, you don't want to get a longer stem. Are you sure you're on the right size? Maybe you should grab a size up so your weight is further back.
I think the biggest reason I like my sunday frame is how natural it feels. There's nothing wrong with it, compared to other bikes I've felt that were too stretched out or compact. The geometry is very spot on and natural, especially with the setup I have.
standard operating procedure for a sunday is to drop the bars as far as possible. This is, from what I've read, due to the BB being so low that it throws normal geometry out of whack. So, to compensate, you drop the bars way down, and you have a normal position.
I run a sunline stem, which is like 0 or 5* rise, 50mm, and a kore 20mm rise/800mm wide (I know I know) setup, and it feels pretty good without being too low in any situation. I don't think I'd want to go flat or drop stem.
It's hard to suggest to you what you should do without seeing the bike or knowing what kind of stem you are using, but my first inclination would be to get higher rise bars but keep the same stem. If you're too far over the front, you don't want to get a longer stem. Are you sure you're on the right size? Maybe you should grab a size up so your weight is further back.
I think the biggest reason I like my sunday frame is how natural it feels. There's nothing wrong with it, compared to other bikes I've felt that were too stretched out or compact. The geometry is very spot on and natural, especially with the setup I have.
Thanks Sandwich, It's a Funn SMX stem http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=15839
I was thinking of swapping it out for this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23925
Not a huge difference i know but it just feels a bit cramped, yet too far forward if you get me? twitchy kinda, which i am putting down to the short/flat stem.
I was hoping a slightly longer/higher stem would have me less hunched over the front but i had a feeling Sundays were ment to be low as possible..
But your right it could just be the frame (16") but i'm 5'10" so im right on the boarder of 16/17"
I was thinking of swapping it out for this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23925
Not a huge difference i know but it just feels a bit cramped, yet too far forward if you get me? twitchy kinda, which i am putting down to the short/flat stem.
I was hoping a slightly longer/higher stem would have me less hunched over the front but i had a feeling Sundays were ment to be low as possible..
But your right it could just be the frame (16") but i'm 5'10" so im right on the boarder of 16/17"
Recently i switched from a almost slammed setup to a higher which felt alot better overall but in certain situations maybe a little worse, due to higher cog. I started with 10mm but ended up with 15mm. But then i also have -2 cups so it sits even lower than stock. My suggestion is to try different stack heights befrore you start switching stems.
I think the biggest reason for the low frontend trend is how sam hill had his sunday setup but everyones body is unique so try different setups and stack height is the cheapest to beginn with, some of the longer pros like peaty has a quite high bar height since his quite tall and a higher setup helps keep the front wheel out of big holes etc. As for the geo of the sunday it is quite in line with everthing else out there.
I think the biggest reason for the low frontend trend is how sam hill had his sunday setup but everyones body is unique so try different setups and stack height is the cheapest to beginn with, some of the longer pros like peaty has a quite high bar height since his quite tall and a higher setup helps keep the front wheel out of big holes etc. As for the geo of the sunday it is quite in line with everthing else out there.