[Raingauge]

But your right it could just be the frame (16") but i'm 5'10" so im right on the boarder of 16/17"

I'm 5'10" and had two 17" (07 & 08) Sundays. No other bike has fit me so well.

 

[Tomasis]

im 5"8/177cm and riding 16" frame. It seems that 60mm stem helps me better than 50mm with little rise up. Im using 1" rise bar.

I think if I reduce headangle to 63 degrees, 60mm would be good when bar comes closer backwards.

 

[Sandwich]

Thanks Sandwich, It's a Funn SMX stem http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=15839

I was thinking of swapping it out for this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23925

Not a huge difference i know but it just feels a bit cramped, yet too far forward if you get me? twitchy kinda, which i am putting down to the short/flat stem.
I was hoping a slightly longer/higher stem would have me less hunched over the front but i had a feeling Sundays were ment to be low as possible..

But your right it could just be the frame (16") but i'm 5'10" so im right on the boarder of 16/17"

I'm 5'11" and on a medium/17". You may want to see if you can find one of those to swap. It's an inch longer in the TT, which would solve the cramped issue, and still keep you back to prevent you from feeling over the front wheel.

Otherwise, I'd probably stick with my bars suggestion. I doubt you'll feel 5mm in the stem. I didn't when I went from a 55 to 50mm stem. Ideally you could try one out. Maybe if you can find a Med frame to test ride, you'll have a better idea.

I wonder if anybody makes offset cups to lengthen/shorten the TT without changing HT angle...

 

[Raingauge]

I have a front triangle from my 07 sitting in the garage at home if anyone is interested. It has a dent from shuttling so I'd get rid of it for cheap. I only rode it for one season and it was a sh!t season as I spent most of my time offshore in Aus and planning a project from the Mumbia office.

It's a 17" and is the brown Sunday Elite.

http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/2319540/

 

[Dsunday]

thanks,

ya i'm gonna try rise the stem first this weekend, probably have about 1.5" up/down to work with so that should be a good indication of what works, I had just assumed slammed was the way to go, hence flat crowns/0degree rise stem/15mm rise bars but don't think its suiting me...... Hope its not the frame!!! /
Anyway Ill let ye know how it works out

 

[Sandwich]

this might be spam, but at least it's relevant.

I'm offering up my sunday for sale in hopes of finding something else to ride next season. If anybody is interested in a cheap WC frame, here it is. Nothing wrong with it shy of one partially rounded out allen bolt and some age. Rear end is nice and tight.

 

[Sandwich]

can anybody help me remove the chainstay pivot bearing and axle? I've got one bolt out but the other one is stuck in there. I don't know whether the entire axle should slide out to one side, or if I'm missing something.

 

[Udi]

You only need to remove one bolt and endcap, after that just screw a bolt into that side (one of matching thread, and long preferably, m6 I think) and tap out the axle.

 

[Sandwich]

got it...did a search (duh) and figured it out. Now I have to remove the friggin bolt, which is still stuck and completely rounded out. ez out?

 

[Dsunday]

you're going to have to heat the bolt or female threads directly, the whole idea with the blowtorch is to stop being a pu$$y with easy-outs and torx bits and whatever... the frame should be fine.

been through the whole thing with those 22mm hexes where I decided to red loctite the threads.... a boxxer stanchion worth of leverage still wouldn't make the thing budge, but the blowtorch made easy work of it.

keep in mind that the torch method assumes that loctite is the reason your bolt is stuck, if it's just really tight or seized then it might not help.

Ok i had another go at the bolts again today and they are definetly looked on!
would this be any use as i dont have a blow toarch and this seems ideal

would butane get the bolt hot enough?
http://www.harborfreight.com/butane-pencil-torch-41169.html

 

[Sandwich]

I recommend this : http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-7PC-Pencil-Torch-Kit/dp/B000AYIWR4

I finally got my stuck bolt out. Will be ordering up new ones from mcmaster. Has anybody found higher quality or larger bolts for the rear lower link bolts (ie chainstay)? I used my torch, PB blaster, ez outs, and finally ended up pounding in a torx head and getting it to break free that way. 85$ in new tools, almost none of which I needed. Oh well. Maybe new bearings and bolts and a shock tune for next year?

 

[Udi]

I just use 12.9 grade hardened/high-tensile steel bolts. They will surface rust but the bolt is stronger and the heads are not as soft as the factory ones.

New paint/anodize/pcoat + bearings + new shock or tune + maybe some angled reducer cups and it'll feel like a new bike.

 

[Sandwich]

Udi- where do you get your bolts from? Mcmaster (large US distro) has up to 10.9 in either black or blue flavor...after yesterday's experience, I want to get the strongest within reason. Weight isn't a remote concern, taking them out after another year of service is.

I'm starting to lean towards keeping it....if the bike felt that good with torn up bearings, imagine how much better it will feel refreshed...

 

[daday]

New paint/anodize/pcoat + bearings + new shock or tune + maybe some angled reducer cups and it'll feel like a new bike.

deff go for the reducer cups - but you might need a stronger spring in your db finally after changing the headangle as i feel it sits much more over the rear wheel except on the really steep stuff

 

[Udi]

Sandwich - can't really help you there, I usually get mine from a local place which would be no good to you, actually stole some from an MRP chainguide I think (the ISCG mounting bolts). 10.9 in the black flavor would probably be good to go though, and that torx method for getting them out has never failed for me (just have to be brutal with the hammer), so it's not the end of the world if they get stuck really. Do look up the o-ring mod I did if you change the bearings though, if you can find a fitting size, it makes the chainstay bearings last a lot longer. I apologise in advance for never measuring the sizes I used.

Daday - I was just suggesting it to sandwich, mine saw a refresh earlier this year, but it's funny you mention springs because I actually just ordered a 300 ti for it! I'm running the BOS in mine at the moment, and I'm 72-73kg at the moment. What is your weight and rate again? And what degree cups?

Sneak peek, will have to get some built up pics later -

 

[richgardiner]

Im so tempted by a bos for my sunday, seeing as i have the dw link for it and all? how does it fare on the sunday?

 

[Sandwich]

Sandwich - can't really help you there, I usually get mine from a local place which would be no good to you, actually stole some from an MRP chainguide I think (the ISCG mounting bolts). 10.9 in the black flavor would probably be good to go though, and that torx method for getting them out has never failed for me (just have to be brutal with the hammer), so it's not the end of the world if they get stuck really. Do look up the o-ring mod I did if you change the bearings though, if you can find a fitting size, it makes the chainstay bearings last a lot longer. I apologise in advance for never measuring the sizes I used.

Daday - I was just suggesting it to sandwich, mine saw a refresh earlier this year, but it's funny you mention springs because I actually just ordered a 300 ti for it! I'm running the BOS in mine at the moment, and I'm 72-73kg at the moment. What is your weight and rate again? And what degree cups?

Sneak peek, will have to get some built up pics later -

well daaaaaaaaaang, that's pretty. Did you get it anodized? I'd love to do that to my frame, but I was under the impression that unless it was fresh aluminum (ie not previously painted) it would be difficult to get good results. I was considering PC based on durability and coverage, but I'd love to go ano instead.

I'm considering an grAVY tune on the DHX, but they aren't "technically" offering it yet. Not enough pre-orders. Going to see if the push mx tune fits our bikes.

What angle cups is everybody running? I'm thinking about picking up the CC 3-way setup, then running the 1* cups, but part of me would love to try the craziness of a super slack setup.

 

[daday]

Daday - I was just suggesting it to sandwich, mine saw a refresh earlier this year, but it's funny you mention springs because I actually just ordered a 300 ti for it! I'm running the BOS in mine at the moment, and I'm 72-73kg at the moment. What is your weight and rate again? And what degree cups?

i think with the 300 you'll be better off... with the DB i'm running a 300 - at around 69-70 kg.... i put in the 2 degree cups - seemed a bit radical in the beginning but the bike is so much more stable at speeds and does corner better too - though you might have to find a what bar lenght you like with it - was running 785 - then 800 and now i'm back to 745 and like that the most with a zero rise bar... handles a bit more nervous due to the angle cups but also responds better

I#m not sure how long i'll stick with the sunday though - got my rear triangle dented really bad at a race on the maribor wc track... ((

 

[monkeyfcuker]

That looks sweet Udi! When did you cut out the seat tube struts?

Also, out of curiosity what settings did you settle on for the Stoy? Got one myself and love it!

I've got -1 cups in mine from Ready To Ride cycles, defo felt strange at first but loving 'em now, been contemplating -2!

 

[Sandwich]

can anyone confirm for me whether the 22mm hex heads are standard, right hand thread, or if one side or the other is reverse threaded? I'm going to go out and buy a 22mm hex tonight, but I want to make sure I don't try cranking them the wrong way.

 

[Udi]

Daday - Yeah it seemed to wallow in its travel a lot with the 250, was nice on the steep overseas tracks, not so much here. I'm really eager to try the 300 especially since I've put on a few kilos.

Sandwich - Hexes are both standard thread, I recommend filing the head of the hex tool flat (on a grinder of your choice) so that it has no chamfer, it reduces the risk of wrecking the head. The trick to a good anodize is a good blast (and a good anodizer too I guess) but it's the blasting services (soda/walnut/glass bead) that are hard to find here at least, the guy I used is long out of business.

Rich - It goes alright, I think it's nice because it doesn't do anything particularly wrong - has the adjustments you need, and I have a custom hardware setup on top so I can run the needle bearing.

Monkeyfcuker - This is with the 250, might change a little for the 300 (all clicks out from fully closed): 12 LSC, 13 HSC, 16 R.

 

[Sandwich]

Thanks udi...once again i just went and tried it, and it came apart. I think I'll end up powdercoating or polishing....anodizing sounds great, but I'm not sure I can get good results without sending it away, and it's sounding like powder will be adequately durable. I guess we'll see who i can find locally.

I just gotta get the friggin e13 cups out now...they don't want to budge.

 

[Udi]

Oh that is a bit of fun haha! I've had to take them out twice now, and both times I was fairly sure I was going to break my frame. An old metal pipe (I used wrecked boxxer stanchions) and a big hammer are the solution.

Powdercoating is more durable if anything - the anodizing just modifies the oxide layer of the aluminium so you don't really get much resistance to frame damage, but it's light and classy. Just make sure you plug everything including the seat tube prior to pcoating.

 

[monkeyfcuker]

Cheers Udi, near as damn it to what I'm running from memory.

Good luck with the E13 cups Sandwhich, they're a bitch! I lost patience with mine the last time I had 'em out and went a bit too wild with the hammer/punch and ended up damaging the lower cup.

 

[LukeD]

soooo how did you cut out the spaces in your frame? It looks too clean to be a dremel. I might have to give it a go since I have 2 frames sitting here

 

[Sandwich]

alright, one more Q for the night...I've got my frame stripped aside from the bearings on the 22mm hexes. How the F do I get them off there? I have them soaking in my favorite penetrant now, but nothing has been able to allow them to slide off, which I believe they should. I'm prepared to drag out my blowtorch tomorrow, but am worried about torching the stupid aluminum caps....should I count on the torch simply melting away any loctite or retainer, or should I try and pry/twist the bearing off while it's hot?

 

[Udi]

Go the blowtorch to melt the loctite, you can damage the 22mm hexes if you try to lever the bearing off for example as they are a lot softer than the bearing. The aluminium will be fine, and if you were ever to damage/break them, pearce cycles in the UK sell them anyway. I'm running a set of theirs and they have been great.

 

[stumpjump]

ok guys...heres one for you. I went to change out my du bushings and Im noticing wear on the inside of the my shock on the shaft (DHX5 350 X3.25 spring). Ive got no idea why their would be wear on the side on the shaft considering its protected by the spring for a large part. Im supposed to get this shock AVY'd in a month or two but Id like to figure out why this is happening before I put some money into it. Any of you guys every has this happen or hear about this happening?

Im about 185 if that helps any..

 

[Sandwich]

do you mean the shock shaft itself? I would fathom a guess that it's something internal to the shock...either a seal, or bushing, or something. There shouldn't be much sideload, if any, so double check that the top and bottom shock pins are both intact. If it is wear on the shaft, then you probably need a new one, and some internals to fix it.

 

[Sandwich]

Go the blowtorch to melt the loctite, you can damage the 22mm hexes if you try to lever the bearing off for example as they are a lot softer than the bearing. The aluminium will be fine, and if you were ever to damage/break them, pearce cycles in the UK sell them anyway. I'm running a set of theirs and they have been great.

thanks Udi...I'll try nuking it tonight to see if that helps. My caps should be in OK shape, though i marred the threads slightly trying to vise-grip the bearing race (thought I could grab that and turn to loosen it...no bite no dice) when my cheapo chinese made tools misaligned and slipped off. I should be able to chase them, but good to know there are replacements available.

 

[CBJ]

soooo how did you cut out the spaces in your frame? It looks too clean to be a dremel. I might have to give it a go since I have 2 frames sitting here

That cut out and frame does look amazing. Can't wait to see fresh new Sunday. Mine will get some love next year too if I find funds time to ride enough to do it.

 

[jimmy]

anyone know if the upper linkage of the sunday is the same as the 7point7?

 

[stumpjump]

do you mean the shock shaft itself? I would fathom a guess that it's something internal to the shock...either a seal, or bushing, or something. There shouldn't be much sideload, if any, so double check that the top and bottom shock pins are both intact. If it is wear on the shaft, then you probably need a new one, and some internals to fix it.

Its nothing internal. I dont know if its rub from the spring or what. Im kind of at a loss of what could scratch the shock like that. Mind you there is no debris around the shock. Any ideas?

 

[Sandwich]

Oh yeah...I had that happen on my avy with ti spring on my brooklyn. The solution that eventually worked for me was to turn the spring until it no longer rubbed. Basically the ID is too small for the shock body....try loosening the preload, rotating the spring 180*, then tightening it back down (or just adjust the preload so the spring is 180* from where it is now.

You may also be able to adjust the shock slightly on the spacers top and bottom...ie, slide it out just slightly in the spot that it's rubbing.

These worked for me...I was surprised that it did, but eventually the noise just went away. I threw a small piece of duct tape on the spring so I could tell when I was rotating it. Put a small piece on both the preload adjuster and the spring and you can tell when they are opposite from each other.

 

[Sandwich]

Now I have a question again...what's the thread pitch and diameter for the 22mm hex heads? I need to chase the threads on one of my bolts and I'm not sure what to buy/pursue...

 

[Udi]

soooo how did you cut out the spaces in your frame? It looks too clean to be a dremel. I might have to give it a go since I have 2 frames sitting here

I used a die grinder, but the trick is to mark it out, and then only go close to your markings with whatever power tool/s you use. Leave the final part for hand files of different shapes and sizes. I sanded them smooth as a final step before anodizing.

 

[stumpjump]

Has anyone gotten the enduro needle bearings? I wore down my upper DU bushing bolt and didn't feel like paying for a new bolt from pearce so Im thinking these will solve the problem too. Any thoughts/experiences?

 

[Sandwich]

I contacted pearce and they said shipping to the us would be 9.90 gbp...in other words, not so loko. I plan on grabbing extra 22mm heads and maybe a lower shock pin, just in case...

 

[Dsunday]

Ok so i have tried everything i can find to try and get my stuck seat stay bolts out.

ez-outs
penetrating fluid
freeze fluid
heat gun
cut slots in the bolts and use large screw driver

they just wont budge!!
the bolts are in some state now and i think im going to give it to a machine shop to get them to drill them out.
anything i should tell them not to do!!

 

[Sandwich]

you're talking about the upper link, right? what about working from the other side? You could, in theory, drill them all the way out then insert a helicoil into the link, or run a real narrow nut to keep it intact. what happened when you slotted them?