Is this the one your referring too? Can you point me to the correct part if this link is the wrong part. Thanks
http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=231&Name=Fox+Needle+Roller+Bearing
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
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http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=231&Name=Fox+Needle+Roller+Bearing
The bolt you need is a long bolt with the centered drilled out and a Allen bolt threads in. I'll grab my 06 link from the garage and get you a picture of it in a few minutes.
Never mind the bolt needed is on the bike right now.
I'll see if i have another one to get a picture of.
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Bottom page from link I think that's the lower shock and bolt assembly
http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=387&Name=IRON+HORSE+Linkages+and+spares
http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=387&Name=IRON+HORSE+Linkages+and+spares
No. It will fit, but thats just a space kit that replaces the DU bush in the shock eyelet.
Yes. This is the shock pin for the LOWER frame mount. I believe the OP is looking for a top mount, might be wrong. Havent come across the 06 top mount pins yet sorry mate.
If its the top pin just use a straight bolt.
Yes it's the top pin
The air shock is working well. It's needs a touch of tuning but it was pretty much spot on. I'm going to have a hard time convincing myself to pick up a new coil or rebuild my old one now. I think the bike actually pops into other lines/jump better with the air shock.
I do have another project to work on though: A fender. I was stopping mid run and clearing out the mud with a stick. At one point my rear wheel stopped rolling and was just skidding down the trail. Every winter it's the same and every ride I think "I need a fender" but I never make one. I took some pictures to remind myself to build a damn fender already.
I'm headed out to mount up my mud tires, install my SKF sealed Boxxer WC and build a fender.
I do have another project to work on though: A fender. I was stopping mid run and clearing out the mud with a stick. At one point my rear wheel stopped rolling and was just skidding down the trail. Every winter it's the same and every ride I think "I need a fender" but I never make one. I took some pictures to remind myself to build a damn fender already.
I'm headed out to mount up my mud tires, install my SKF sealed Boxxer WC and build a fender.
They're pretty easy to rig up, but I found a pre-cut carbon one on ebay a few months ago from this seller: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/hotcarbon/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686
They're no longer up for sale but he might have a few left if you send him a message or something.
They're no longer up for sale but he might have a few left if you send him a message or something.
Or a beer matt does exactly the same job 
I used a shoe liner that came in my 5.10 or swim fin or something. Just cut it up and zip tied it to the holes that are already there. Worked exceptionally well, as that shock is like the perfect crud catcher.
I`m running a long carbon fender like posted from JA666. It won`t help you against the mud stopping your wheel. Also I had the problem quiet a few times that some bigger stones got caugth between the fender, tire and rear triangle which really damaged the paint of the triangle in the lower part.
Had a little time today on it but will update after beating on it.
The rebound has a very big range that is noticeable between clicks, the comoression (low speed) has a very nice wide range to dial in. It ramps but doesn't pack up or spike. I'll try and grab some pics from the rocks and jumps on wed. I will have a diversified run on it, it feels better than the rock wc did. It has the same deep feel but now I can pop it up and around so definently not dead feeling.
The rebound has a very big range that is noticeable between clicks, the comoression (low speed) has a very nice wide range to dial in. It ramps but doesn't pack up or spike. I'll try and grab some pics from the rocks and jumps on wed. I will have a diversified run on it, it feels better than the rock wc did. It has the same deep feel but now I can pop it up and around so definently not dead feeling.
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How about a POV camera pointed at the links/shock on one of your runs so we can watch it work?
I'm still deciding on what to do for a shock, but this new air shock is going to hold me over for a while no problem.
I'll see if my buddy will loan me his camera wed. And take it out to the rocks. I'd be curious to see it moving and get an idea of how its handling and how far into travel its going.
Hi all 
I´m new here. I have an IronHorse Sunday Team 07 with an Elka Stage5 and I have a question for you... anyone knows how to set up the Stage5 shock? Thanks for all & happy rides.
I´m new here. I have an IronHorse Sunday Team 07 with an Elka Stage5 and I have a question for you... anyone knows how to set up the Stage5 shock? Thanks for all & happy rides.
Hey guys just had a quick question about my IH Sunday. i bought a new rear shock and i was wondering if there was any downside to mounting the shock the opposite way so i could get to the adjustments (like a glory has it mounted basically) Dont know much about suspension so if someone could explain any problems, if any, that i might run into that would be great.
Greetings everyone.
With regard to shock/reservoir (resi) orientation, to be honest, this was the ONE thing I never really experimented with. I know that the frame and linkage was designed with the idea that the shcok would be mounted with the resi in the "up" position located toward the BB, but from what I can tell by eyeball precision and SWAG-ing it, with a DHX 5.0, it might work.
EDIT: Whoops - I was thinking of the shock in the "resi on top" orientation with the resi facing outward toward the open space in the front triangle (like on a Kona Operator). This orientation I have not tried, but it looks like it might work. I do know from trying it myself, that the shock will not work if you try to rotate it 180 degrees (around its long axis) from its designed location and try to mount it as it is found on the Giant Glory. When the suspension compresses - the resi gets pinched by the inside of the DT and that's if you can fit it in that location to begin with.
Rear fenders have always been one of those "Wait - it looks like it goes right HERE..." kind of situations and if you look closely at your rear triangle, there are actually 4 screw holes. dw made this part of the design b/c he envisioned a fender getting bolted to those points, but decided to drop that idea and move on to other things.
I have a custom fender made out of polycarbonate (the same material R/C car bodies are made of and coincidentally a material that is sold in flat sheets at your local hobby store) All you need is an X-acto knife, a ruler, and some polycarbonate paint, and you're set. IMPORTANT: Remove the shock from the frame and cycle the rear end to its fully compressed position. Measure the max height of the fender from here, and cut.
Hope this helps!
With regard to shock/reservoir (resi) orientation, to be honest, this was the ONE thing I never really experimented with. I know that the frame and linkage was designed with the idea that the shcok would be mounted with the resi in the "up" position located toward the BB, but from what I can tell by eyeball precision and SWAG-ing it, with a DHX 5.0, it might work.
EDIT: Whoops - I was thinking of the shock in the "resi on top" orientation with the resi facing outward toward the open space in the front triangle (like on a Kona Operator). This orientation I have not tried, but it looks like it might work. I do know from trying it myself, that the shock will not work if you try to rotate it 180 degrees (around its long axis) from its designed location and try to mount it as it is found on the Giant Glory. When the suspension compresses - the resi gets pinched by the inside of the DT and that's if you can fit it in that location to begin with.
Rear fenders have always been one of those "Wait - it looks like it goes right HERE..." kind of situations and if you look closely at your rear triangle, there are actually 4 screw holes. dw made this part of the design b/c he envisioned a fender getting bolted to those points, but decided to drop that idea and move on to other things.
I have a custom fender made out of polycarbonate (the same material R/C car bodies are made of and coincidentally a material that is sold in flat sheets at your local hobby store) All you need is an X-acto knife, a ruler, and some polycarbonate paint, and you're set. IMPORTANT: Remove the shock from the frame and cycle the rear end to its fully compressed position. Measure the max height of the fender from here, and cut.
Hope this helps!
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I've been using tubes to make fenders to keep the mud out of the linkage on my Session 10, my friends Tall-Boys and other VPP bikes as it's a real issue in Washington having mud build up.Greetings everyone.
Rear fenders have always been one of those "Wait - it looks like it goes right HERE..." kind of situations and if you look closely at your rear triangle, there are actually 4 screw holes. dw made this part of the design b/c he envisioned a fender getting bolted to those points, but decided to drop that idea and move on to other things.
I have a custom fender made out of polycarbonate (the same material R/C car bodies are made of and coincidentally a material that is sold in flat sheets at your local hobby store) All you need is an X-acto knife, a ruler, and some polycarbonate paint, and you're set. IMPORTANT: Remove the shock from the frame and cycle the rear end to its fully compressed position. Measure the max height of the fender from here, and cut.
Hope this helps!
I had never thought to take pictures as a reference to where the mud builds up to most. So... now that I have them. I can source some motofoam and build my fender and be confident there won't be an issue.
Thanks for the tip on the polycarbonate.
Would you guys know were I could still buy a brand new sunday frame these days?
Absolute dream bike would be to build one up with 2012 components, wouldnt get any better....
Absolute dream bike would be to build one up with 2012 components, wouldnt get any better....
this is my dream.
Not sure about new, but I've just done something similar using an old 06 frame. Basically I got the two triangles on the cheap (ebay special) and everything else was new - new links, bolts, bearings, headset, hangers, axle etc.
Between this thread, and a couple of sites, you can build up an essentially new frame parts wise and even get it powdercoated/anodized for something truly fresh/free of marks etc. I would just trawl the classifieds/ebay etc till you find one. Only things to consider would be to get an 07 onwards frame as they use the better links and is about 400g lighter than the early versions (like mine).
My build is very similar to yours, all new/modern/good stuff (bar coil forks/shocks) and it is awesome!
did what you recommended, found this gem on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Iron-Horse-Sunday-Factory-Frame-16-/170762169880?pt=Road_Bikes&hash=item27c237ee18
only question is would 16' be too small? im like 5,11 and still growin
Don't even bother with 16" as it'll be too small. Also it sounds like the rear triangle is out of alignment anyway, doubt you'd want that.
At 5'11 you'll be at the upper end of the 17" / medium frame, and it will probably fit you well with some wide bars and perhaps some slackening headset cups. I wouldn't even consider a 16".
Just keep your eye out, there are plenty of these popping up for sale. Like JA666 suggested, just make sure you grab an 07+ frame as they have the new linkages and a 0.9lb lighter front end.
At 5'11 you'll be at the upper end of the 17" / medium frame, and it will probably fit you well with some wide bars and perhaps some slackening headset cups. I wouldn't even consider a 16".
Just keep your eye out, there are plenty of these popping up for sale. Like JA666 suggested, just make sure you grab an 07+ frame as they have the new linkages and a 0.9lb lighter front end.
Kev1n - I forgot you're a new guy here - check your PM's (Private Messages)
Anyone know the sizes for the countersunk bolt that holds the shock in place.I bought M6*16 but the head is to small
Pic of where the bolt is ment to go
Attachments
It is a custom bolt, so you won't be able to buy anything off the shelf that matches visually. However the normal M6 countersunk bolt you have should work absolutely fine, and I'm pretty sure that's all pearce cycles uses in their kit as well - http://www.pearcecycles.co.uk/product/955
ok thanks
Don't know if it has been posted before, but thought i'd post this for anyone who is looking for an '07+ lower link.
Found these guys through google, cheap as (US$40) and great customer service.
Only ship to US and Canada, so i'm having one forwarded to AUS, but still waaay cheaper than i could find over here (I was quoted $300 here in aus).
Long Island Cycle Worx
Found these guys through google, cheap as (US$40) and great customer service.
Only ship to US and Canada, so i'm having one forwarded to AUS, but still waaay cheaper than i could find over here (I was quoted $300 here in aus).
Long Island Cycle Worx
anyone has proven this one??
http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=387&Name=IRON+HORSE+Linkages+and+spares
http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=387&Name=IRON+HORSE+Linkages+and+spares
If anyone in the UK is after a medium Front triangle I have one for sale: http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/923605/
pm me on pinkbike if interested as i rarely check my messages on here
pm me on pinkbike if interested as i rarely check my messages on here
I would imagine the shock would fit with lower-link cutting mods, just like most other modern shocks. I doubt anyone here will be able to tell you for sure because no one seems to run Manitou shocks - any particular reason you want to run one? I liked some of the older Revox's I tried, and given their position sensitive valving would probably suit the Sunday reasonably well - but I'd sooner just chop out the link and run an RC4 (especially if you have to chop the link anyway).
The only other problem with Manitou shocks is that they run 12mm OD shock hardware instead of 12.7mm like most other brands, and I don't think any major manufacturer actually makes 12mm OD + 10mm ID 3-piece hardware that the 07+ Sunday requires.
I do know BOS makes 2-piece hardware in this size that will possibly work in the Revox, or you could get your own made up.
The only other problem with Manitou shocks is that they run 12mm OD shock hardware instead of 12.7mm like most other brands, and I don't think any major manufacturer actually makes 12mm OD + 10mm ID 3-piece hardware that the 07+ Sunday requires.
I do know BOS makes 2-piece hardware in this size that will possibly work in the Revox, or you could get your own made up.
Someone else posted this, but figured i would again since no one seemed to see it. If anyone is looking for a new lower link or linkage hardware etc, this place seems to be pretty promising and the cheapest to get it anywhere. $40 for a lower link, yes $40. $20 for pivot hardware/bolts. Wonder what range of shocks the lower link allows for. Can't imagine the stuff would be unreliable. Heres the link for everything they have for it.
http://www.licycleworx.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=iron+horse+sunday&Submit=
http://www.licycleworx.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=iron+horse+sunday&Submit=
I've got one of those links from them on mine and been using it for the past 6 months or so. I think it was about $55 delivered to the UK. I run a vivid and have had no problems so far. Bargain if you ask me.
Damn thats good to hear. Almost makes me regret selling my frame seeing as i could have revived it for so cheap. Almost ; ) now on a DW DHR. I've always had a soft spot for sundays though so maybe in the not so distant future I'll think of building one up again.