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The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section

DMdh

Monkey
Oct 26, 2011
131
6
Galicia
I've got one of those links from them on mine and been using it for the past 6 months or so. I think it was about $55 delivered to the UK. I run a vivid and have had no problems so far. Bargain if you ask me.
To europe?? how? It doesnt let me ship outside EEUU
 

bengxe

Monkey
Dec 19, 2011
211
30
upstate NY
Heres my Sunday:


I was pedaling it on a trail ride when these pics were taken, hence the high seat and single ply rear tire.
The frame is an 08 Sunday that originally belonged to Duncan Riffle. I recently built it up with an 07 888RC2XVA, Xfusion Vector HLR, Outlaws with Ardent 2.6s, M785 XT brakes, Gravity light cranks, saint shifter, slx derailleur, 32 x 11-34 gearing, 30" Sunline V1 flat bars, and a Funn direct mount stem. The cranks and the derailleur will be replaced with Saint soon. Also waiting on 2 piece hope rotors, north shore billet caliper adapters, and a blackspire dh chainring, all in red.
 

bengxe

Monkey
Dec 19, 2011
211
30
upstate NY
It works well for me, but I dont have much to compare it too. I usually run the adjusters wide open so it could probably use a lighter tune for me, but I ride slow and like a soft setup. I weigh about 180 in gear and I use a 350lb spring. I could probably use a little more sag in the rear, but 300lbs would be too light. I may have a chance to compare it to a b-tune vivid soon.
 

Oli-

Chimp
Feb 6, 2012
2
0
Ahhh thats cool. Im having a bit of trouble finding the right spot with the DHX 5 I have on mine. Thanks for talking about it
 

sundaydoug

Monkey
Jun 8, 2009
617
281
Ahhh thats cool. Im having a bit of trouble finding the right spot with the DHX 5 I have on mine. Thanks for talking about it
PUSH does a good tune for DW link. I had my DHX 3 pushed before last season and it was a significant improvement. Avalance now has a tune/rebuild for this shock as well.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
Thanks for the reply, very informative. Only interested in this shock because of pro deal. But I'm figuring the headache just isn't worth the $ savings.
Just thought I should correct myself on this, apparently 2011+ Manitou shocks have changed to 12.7mm ID eyelet bushings like most other brands, which means that regular Fox/RS reducer hardware (and bushings for that matter) should fit straight in if you're using a 2011/2012 shock. It also means that it'll work in the Sunday with the stock Sunday Fox/RS reducers.

Bad news is that I'm fairly sure you'd still have to cut out the lower link's brace/s for the shock's piggyback to physically fit and clear the link at bottom out. Same as the BOS/Elka/RC4.
 

bendik.ph

Chimp
Oct 6, 2011
21
0
does someone know where i can find a 400 x 3.25 spring for my sunday's fox dhx 5.0 shock.i have been looking at ebay and can't find one
 

milohead

Monkey
Dec 9, 2008
754
0
Johnson City, Tn
After a rough winter that caused me to sell my Session, I decided to rebuild an oldie but goodie after reading this thread and others across the net. Didn't drop a lot either and pretty happy with the build so I thought I would post it. ih 2012.jpg
Couple things left to do but all in all done.
 

milohead

Monkey
Dec 9, 2008
754
0
Johnson City, Tn
Hey Milohead how are you finding the CCDB? I'm interested to know what spring you've got in there and your settings. Thanks.
To tell you the truth I just finished it on Saturday and have not even had the chance to ride it yet, except a driveway run w/ my girls. Probably gonna take it out on Wed. I'll post up then.
 

Ev.

Chimp
Sep 1, 2010
12
0
NSW, Australia
Hey all,

I'm currently in the process of reconditioning my Sunday. So far had it stripped, new bearings, hardware and links, cut out the seat tower bridges (as on UDI's Sunday) and have a K9 ARC on the way.

Now I have another, possibly crazy, idea for a mod. After gazing at today's bike with all their internal cable routing, I'm toying with the idea of creating the same on my Sunday.

After looking at the frame, there's already a small hole towards the BB which is in a good location for an 'exit' hole, would just need to be widened a bit, and there's access through the downtube to the headtube. So all I would need to do is create an opening in the headtube large enough to fit a brake and gear cable through.

Does anyone have any comments or criticisms on this idea? Obviously this will allow me to remove all external cable guides on the main frame and give it a very clean look, and a certain uniqueness to my ride.

Anyone from an engineering background have any comments on how this might affect the structural integrity of the headtube? Am I likely to cause frame failure in doing this?

Just an idea at this stage, but if I get the feedback I'm after it could become a reality...
 

Verskis

Monkey
May 14, 2010
458
8
Tampere, Finland
Anyone from an engineering background have any comments on how this might affect the structural integrity of the headtube? Am I likely to cause frame failure in doing this?
I have no idea how stressed the middle part of the headtube is, but remember to have as rounded corners as possible on the cutout. Sharp corners are stress risers.

The same applies for seat tower cutouts as well (or any cutout, for that matter).
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
I think the problem will be actually getting the cables back out, because the frame will have no internal guidance to channel the cables towards the exit hole you're talking about.

Personally I think it's a waste of time other than for looks, because the Sunday cable routing is actually very good apart from where the derailleur cable runs over the chainstay, and you're not addressing that - plus you'll make maintenance (changing cables, changing brakes etc) much harder than stock.

I think as said above if you keep the holes rounded and as small as possible, you'll probably be okay in terms of strength - just keep in mind the above if you go ahead.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
You will need more than just those parts to convert an 05-06 Sunday:

- 07+ lower link (to replace 06 link)
- Enduro extended inner race bearings (to replace standard bearings)

There are some web links to purchasing the lower link over the previous page or two of this thread.
 

sundaydoug

Monkey
Jun 8, 2009
617
281
I'm sure that this question has come up multiple times in this thread, but for those of you that have fixed the play between your lower link and the rear triangle what size/type of shims did you use to take out play? I can see the link moving side to side a bit when I hold the seat and pull/push on the rear triangle.

BTW It's the '08 linkage if that matters
 

Wolfe

Chimp
Aug 1, 2011
20
1
N.E England
I'm sure that this question has come up multiple times in this thread, but for those of you that have fixed the play between your lower link and the rear triangle what size/type of shims did you use to take out play? I can see the link moving side to side a bit when I hold the seat and pull/push on the rear triangle.

BTW It's the '08 linkage if that matters
I changed all the bearings, new pivots and bolts (pearce cycles) and updated the dw link (From licycleworx) , Then found out it was the shock shart that was moving side to side in the shock body!? :rolleyes:
My advice would be to start with cheapest parts to replace first then work on to the more expensive.
 

sundaydoug

Monkey
Jun 8, 2009
617
281
I changed all the bearings, new pivots and bolts (pearce cycles) and updated the dw link (From licycleworx) , Then found out it was the shock shart that was moving side to side in the shock body!? :rolleyes:
My advice would be to start with cheapest parts to replace first then work on to the more expensive.
The bearings and hardware were all brand new at the beginning of last season. My guess is that there is play in between the axle and the link, but I'm not sure how to fix it. I can see the back end of the lower link moving side-to-side.
 

Wolfe

Chimp
Aug 1, 2011
20
1
N.E England
The bearings and hardware were all brand new at the beginning of last season. My guess is that there is play in between the axle and the link, but I'm not sure how to fix it. I can see the back end of the lower link moving side-to-side.
The only thing i can think of bud is if the main pivot hex head bolts are loose if everything else is new.
 

Philbo194

Chimp
Sep 16, 2010
6
0
Surrey
Hi everyone.

I have a 2006 Sunday factory with a 2007 front end.

I want to upgrade the links so bought a 07+ lower link and the hardware to go with it but I cannot find an 07+ upper link anywhere.

Does anyone know where I can getone from? (not fussed if its second hand.)

Phil
 

DMdh

Monkey
Oct 26, 2011
131
6
Galicia
Hi everyone.

I have a 2006 Sunday factory with a 2007 front end.

I want to upgrade the links so bought a 07+ lower link and the hardware to go with it but I cannot find an 07+ upper link anywhere.

Does anyone know where I can getone from? (not fussed if its second hand.)

Phil
It´s difficult to find a upper link nowadays...
 

Ross

Chimp
Mar 16, 2012
4
0
Hi all, got an 09 Sunday and was thinking of getting it redone, just wondering whether it is better to anodise or powder coat the frame black, and if it is possible to anodise all the linkages etc?
Also what do I need to do to make it suitable for a Dhx RC4?

Any help is much appreciated.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
Anodising is a bit more work, you can do all the linkages too, but in some places (particularly the lower link inner bore, and the swingarm's upper bearing seats) you may lose too much material during the etching/stripping process and require loctite 609 bearing retainer to eliminate the resulting play. That stuff sets hard and will never budge after being given proper cure time (24-48h) however it makes dissasembly for maintenance more difficult, and will require (patient) redoing afterwards. I'm a big fan of anodising personally and was happy to deal with it but do be aware of the extra work and future hassle.

To fit the RC4 the safest thing to do is remove the two middle braces from the lower link, which is essentially all the cross bracing. If you worked out how much to leave of the 2nd brace it would be so little as to be insignificant and I have personally been running the link brace-free for over a year of hard riding with no issues. Obviously though, you do this at your own risk.

FWIW, I think the RC4 goes hand-in-hand with this frame and it's probably the single biggest improvement you can make to the bike.. perhaps in line with angled reducer cups.
 

Ross

Chimp
Mar 16, 2012
4
0
Awesome thank you very much for the advice. Is it easy to tell when to much material is gone, or can you only find out once it's assembelled? I think I can deal with the extra hassle.
I have a spare full linkage pretty much so I might play round with that and if that doesn't work I still have one fully intact.
Yes heard good thinks about the RC4 and the Sunday, but not sure about an Angleset or the like because wont it lower the BB further?

Thanks again