Assembly:
Tools:
21 mm six point socket (top caps)
1.5 mm Allen wrench (preload knob set screws)
2 mm Allen Wrench (lockout handle fixing screw)
15 mm socket wrench with extension (acorn nuts at slider bottoms to remove MCRs)
For each leg:
Insert bushing, then flat washer.
Smear a light film of fork oil on the oil seal and install it, open side down. Theres a special tool, but it can be done by hand initially, then tapped in with a piece of hardwood dowel and a mallet until its seated on the washer. The trick is to install the seal squarely, not allowing it to get cocked in the slider.
Install the circlip. Make sure its fully seated in its slot.
Install the dust seals. This can be done by hand.
Smear RockShox Judy Butter generously on the inside face of all four seals.
Insert stanchions into the sliders. It helps to tilt them a little when getting them started into the seals, but dont get carried away and damage the seals.
For each damper (you can put the lockout on the right or left, at your pleasure):
Place the small spring over the lower end of the damper.
With the stanchions fully compressed, insert the spring and damper from the top until the stud comes through the hole on the bottom of the slider.
Put a new o-ring on the acorn nut, moisten it with a little fork oil, and thread it on to the damper stud with a 15 mm socket and an extension. A 3/8 drive tee bar and a three inch extension work just right.
Clamp the assembly so its upright, with stanchions fully compressed. Good lighting is a real help from here on.
For each side:
Fill the stanchion just short of the top with 7.5W fork oil.
Pump the damper rod up and down a few times; most of the oil will disappear into the damper as it displaces air.
Repeat, but keep the oil about 2-1/2 inches below the top. Do it as many times as necessary until the the airs worked out.
With damper rod fully inserted, cautiously add oil until its at the level you want, nominally 50 mm below the top.
Dont try to put the springs in either side until you have the oil level correct in both.
For each side:
Pull the damper rod out fully.
Drop the spring over the damper rod.
Drop nylon washer over damper rod, recessed side up.
Drop preload nut over rod, hex side up, and screw it on (counterclockwise, its a left-hand thread).
Put a new o-ring on fork cap, work it over the damper rod and preload nut, and secure it with c-clip.
Extend the fork enough to screw in the fork caps. Be careful, this is aluminum and large diameter fine threads, dont fvck up by cross-threading it. If it wont screw in with light pressure using thumb and forefinger, back it down and try again. When you come up against the o-ring, its time to switch to a 21 mm six point socket, but even then, use your hand muscles, not your arms.
Install the preload knob on each side (tightens with 2 mm allen wrench on 01 models), then the lockout lever (1.5 mm allen).
Wipe everything down with a clean rag and youre done.
Tools:
21 mm six point socket (top caps)
1.5 mm Allen wrench (preload knob set screws)
2 mm Allen Wrench (lockout handle fixing screw)
15 mm socket wrench with extension (acorn nuts at slider bottoms to remove MCRs)
For each leg:
Insert bushing, then flat washer.
Smear a light film of fork oil on the oil seal and install it, open side down. Theres a special tool, but it can be done by hand initially, then tapped in with a piece of hardwood dowel and a mallet until its seated on the washer. The trick is to install the seal squarely, not allowing it to get cocked in the slider.
Install the circlip. Make sure its fully seated in its slot.
Install the dust seals. This can be done by hand.
Smear RockShox Judy Butter generously on the inside face of all four seals.
Insert stanchions into the sliders. It helps to tilt them a little when getting them started into the seals, but dont get carried away and damage the seals.
For each damper (you can put the lockout on the right or left, at your pleasure):
Place the small spring over the lower end of the damper.
With the stanchions fully compressed, insert the spring and damper from the top until the stud comes through the hole on the bottom of the slider.
Put a new o-ring on the acorn nut, moisten it with a little fork oil, and thread it on to the damper stud with a 15 mm socket and an extension. A 3/8 drive tee bar and a three inch extension work just right.
Clamp the assembly so its upright, with stanchions fully compressed. Good lighting is a real help from here on.
For each side:
Fill the stanchion just short of the top with 7.5W fork oil.
Pump the damper rod up and down a few times; most of the oil will disappear into the damper as it displaces air.
Repeat, but keep the oil about 2-1/2 inches below the top. Do it as many times as necessary until the the airs worked out.
With damper rod fully inserted, cautiously add oil until its at the level you want, nominally 50 mm below the top.
Dont try to put the springs in either side until you have the oil level correct in both.
For each side:
Pull the damper rod out fully.
Drop the spring over the damper rod.
Drop nylon washer over damper rod, recessed side up.
Drop preload nut over rod, hex side up, and screw it on (counterclockwise, its a left-hand thread).
Put a new o-ring on fork cap, work it over the damper rod and preload nut, and secure it with c-clip.
Extend the fork enough to screw in the fork caps. Be careful, this is aluminum and large diameter fine threads, dont fvck up by cross-threading it. If it wont screw in with light pressure using thumb and forefinger, back it down and try again. When you come up against the o-ring, its time to switch to a 21 mm six point socket, but even then, use your hand muscles, not your arms.
Install the preload knob on each side (tightens with 2 mm allen wrench on 01 models), then the lockout lever (1.5 mm allen).
Wipe everything down with a clean rag and youre done.