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The Zerode thread

Owennn

Monkey
Mar 10, 2009
128
1
I have had my Zerode since the first run of frames and have not oiled the gearbox. It is sealed in oil. No grit or dirt in , no oil out.
They ran the proto for 2 years of elite level dh and daily runs and never oiled it.
The Alfine 8 uses grease not oil. The point of the oil bath conversion is to make the Alfine smoother, shift better and (probably) last longer. It is a very noticeable conversion once done.
 

no skid marks

Monkey
Jan 15, 2006
2,511
29
ACT Australia
You won't need a spare tensioner. It wont break. Haven't seen or heard of one breaking.
The chain won't rub anywhere or make noise and you will be scared from the silence.
And you don't have to remove chains to see the dots they are easily visible from under the bike.
I have had my Zerode since the first run of frames and have not oiled the gearbox. It is sealed in oil. No grit or dirt in , no oil out.
They ran the proto for 2 years of elite level dh and daily runs and never oiled it.
Let him buy a tensioner. You should get one too incase you've cursed yourself now. The tensioner spring is the weakest part on the Zerode. If he's riding rocky tracks, it may well snap after a year or two. Any piece of metal that small can only handle so much flex. It may not happen, but considering it's pretty much the only thing that could wreck a weekend away riding, I pack one in my tool box.
And your original Zerode is full of grease in the Alfine if you've never serviced it. The seal on one side of the Aline can let water in if harassed repetitively with a jet wash. This will help the bearing grease on that side wear out, and grit get in. Only ever seen this happen to one well used Zerode. Bearings replaced, carry on. This is the only one of the 20 original Zerodes in Oz getting an Alfine serviced I've heard of, everyone seems to neglect it as they run so well and nothing seems to go wrong.
Oil bathing them does make them run more efficiently, and assist with gear changes.
The anodized G1s and the G2s now have an oil port on them that you can just remove a little bolt, and squirt 30ml of oil in when bothered). This mod is easy to do to the older G1s if you can drill and tap a hole. The seals may weep a touch if you use thin oil, but it's not really a concern.
 
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dfinn

Turbo Monkey
Jul 24, 2003
2,129
0
SL, UT
It's good to hear both sides. It's a fine line between low maintenance and neglect I suppose, I'm usually on the neglect side. Since this is the newest toy in the garage it's getting quite a bit of attention lately.

It looks like my g1 (anodized) does have the grease port so it should be fairly easy for me to squirt some fresh grease in there.
 

no skid marks

Monkey
Jan 15, 2006
2,511
29
ACT Australia
Alright. Buy a tensioner and change your oils. I'm am truly sorry for my suggestion that zerodes are low to no maintainence ha!
Ha ha. Just because they keep going without maintenance, doesn't mean one shouldn't every now and then.

It looks like my g1 (anodized) does have the grease port so it should be fairly easy for me to squirt some fresh grease in there.
Oil Port;) grease would do though, just won't be as efficient/smooth.
 
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StyledAirtime

Monkey
May 24, 2006
245
1
NewZealand
Now I'm jealous I don't have an oil port. Trust me I don't neglect my bikes. Grew up in shops and keep my bikes as good as I can. Hell my stress relief is stripping them back to frame and build back up fresh with grease and oil.
 

ianjenn

Turbo Monkey
Sep 12, 2006
3,001
704
SLO
Now I'm jealous I don't have an oil port. Trust me I don't neglect my bikes. Grew up in shops and keep my bikes as good as I can. Hell my stress relief is stripping them back to frame and build back up fresh with grease and oil.
With how much an SRAM or Saint derailure are running you can probably get a brand new ALFINE with the port for close.......
 
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StyledAirtime

Monkey
May 24, 2006
245
1
NewZealand
EASY! man in the grand scheme of things the alfine is a mega cheap alternative to a high end drive train (for the Zerode Please dont think I said its as good as xx1 or x0 or saint on other bikes)
 

ianjenn

Turbo Monkey
Sep 12, 2006
3,001
704
SLO
I bet you can send it to Rob and have him add the port in there for you but I would do it this week! Before the G2's start showing up.....:)
 

Philliam

Chimp
Jan 16, 2012
46
0
Not sure how much she weighs and I don't care. But she looks a lot lighter after a few beers.

The snow cannot melt fast enough.

Rode.jpg
 

trib

not worthy of a Rux.
Jun 22, 2009
1,481
423
The G2's sure look a lot sleeker.

may your trails always be schralpable
 

schwinnstr8

Monkey
Aug 21, 2002
202
0
East Los
Finally got her built up. Still have to dial the rear suspension...but overall was a lot better than I expected. This thing is FAST!!! Big THANKS to Ian for his your help and support!


Couple of questions for G1 owners...
-Using the angle headset cups provided and the Cane Creek headset, did anyone run into a tight steering issue? I have since loosened the amount of torque on the headset bolt/cap but have a bit of concern.
-For pedaling when i gain speed and start to crank it almost feels like a have a oval chain ring where its easy to pedal 1/2 a stroke than it gets tight on the other 1/2. Im guessing the leveling of the Afline hub???
Thanks in advance!
 

EVRAC

Monkey
Jun 21, 2004
757
19
Port Coquitlam, B.C., Canada
For the oval chainring feeling, it is often because the chainring is not properly centered. Check the primary chain tension with the cranks at various positions and it should be always the same, and not too tight or loose.
 

demo 9

Turbo Monkey
Jan 31, 2007
5,910
46
north jersey
Tight steering could be the top cap rubbing on the cup, mine did it, i had to add a spacer UNDER the top cap of the headset. (since the whole headset is now angled, but the headtube is NOT)
 

demo 9

Turbo Monkey
Jan 31, 2007
5,910
46
north jersey
^ give it a try where i left it. That is what our team ran all year. (give or take a click or two) We needed about 25% of the avail LSC and i think it was 2-3 turns of HSC. Its very linear so you want a decent amount of compression to keep it riding high. (so it doesnt hit)-rebound is all preference.
 

no skid marks

Monkey
Jan 15, 2006
2,511
29
ACT Australia
RE headset. Don't run the dust cover on top, just run a spacer. The dust cover might be touching at the back. A spacer is smaller. and check correct race is at each end. Obvious I know, but I've seen one with it wrong.

For getting chainring even, you can back of chain ring bolts just a bit and gentle ride it. Should center it. The nip them back up. Sort of works. and/or just do it by feeling tension as mentioned.

Love the blue.
 

ianjenn

Turbo Monkey
Sep 12, 2006
3,001
704
SLO
Can you post a pic of the G1 and G2 side by side?
Also, can you weigh them and see what the exact difference in weight is?
Yeah I still have Taylors SM here I am shooting studio images of the G2 tonight and buying a Park Scale to do the weigh jobs!
 

SkullCrack

Monkey
Sep 3, 2004
705
127
PNW
-For pedaling when i gain speed and start to crank it almost feels like a have a oval chain ring where its easy to pedal 1/2 a stroke than it gets tight on the other 1/2. Im guessing the leveling of the Afline hub???
This might help (from Sheldon Brown's article on fixie conversions):

Set the rear axle so that the chain pulls taut at the tightest part of the cranks' rotation. One at a time, loosen up each of the stack bolts, and tighten it back just finger tight. Spin the crank slowly and watch for the chain to get to its tightest point. Strike the taut chain lightly with a convenient tool to make the chain ring move a bit on its spider. Then rotate the crank some more, finding the new tightest spot, and repeat as necessary.

This takes a little bit of your hands learning how hard to hit the chain, and how loose to set the stack bolts, but it is really quite easy to learn.

Tighten up the stack bolts a bit and re-check. Tighten the stack bolts in a regular pattern, like the lug nuts on a car wheel. My standard pattern is to start by tightening the bolt opposite the crank, then move clockwise 2 bolts (144 degrees), tighten that one, clockwise 2 more, and so on. Never tighten two neighboring bolts in a row. You may prefer to go counterclockwise, but try to get in the habit of always starting at the same place and always going the same way. This reduces the chances of accidentally missing a bolt.

Once you have the chainrings centered and secured, adjust the position of the rear axle to make the chain as nearly tight as possible without binding. Notice how freely the drive train turns when the chain is too loose. That is how freely it should turn when you are done, but with as little chain droop as possible.
 

ianjenn

Turbo Monkey
Sep 12, 2006
3,001
704
SLO
Can you post a pic of the G1 and G2 side by side?
Also, can you weigh them and see what the exact difference in weight is?

Okay here she is a 1 off color....the new is a LG and the old a SM/MD both have same 400LB spring the new was 1.08 LBS lighter



 

Electric_City

Torture wrench
Apr 14, 2007
1,998
716
What width rear hub is necessary for this frame? Does the alfine ratchet and the rear hub is fixed? How's that work? I googled this but couldn't find an answer. Nothing was on their website either
 
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ianjenn

Turbo Monkey
Sep 12, 2006
3,001
704
SLO
What width rear hub is necessary for this frame? Does the alfine ratchet and the rear hub is fixed? How's that work? I googled this but couldn't find an answer. Nothing was on their website either
They both spin so when coasting the Alfine doesn't move it just sits in the frame. The video below may give a better idea...

 

Kntr

Turbo Monkey
Jan 25, 2003
7,526
21
Montana
Im having trouble with the cable stop staying on the Alfine, since Ive changed to the new shifter. The line indicators line up and it shifts perfectly... but every once in awhile the cable comes unhooked at the Alfine.
 

EVRAC

Monkey
Jun 21, 2004
757
19
Port Coquitlam, B.C., Canada
That sounds unusual. The only thing I can think of is that the barrel is not locked into the hook correctly, or the cable is not in the correct path. Here are the shimano instructions:

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Alfine/SL-S500/SI-6M20A-001-ENG_v1_m56577569830657998.pdf

Note at the bottom-right it mentions the cable routing, and shows an OK / Not OK diagram.
Also, the six-sided nut is to the outside, but I don't think it will go the other way.
Let us know if you sort it out.