Great thanks Jeremy, I have sent you an email with address etc. Should fix that weakness nicely.Hi all,
I have got quotes in for parts and you're looking at $40AUD for the Hard Annodised Tensioner/ Igus J bushings + shipping (~should be pretty cheap worldwide as they are a small parts) Please send me a PM if you need more details and are interested.
Cheers,
Jeremy
The Zerode thread
- Thread starter EVRAC
- Start date
Yes Turbo it can be very difficult to locate a creak,.. can drive you nuts, metal on metal rubs amplify, I checked spokes, hub, tensioner, cranks, pedals. And remember to re-torque cranks after 300k. Which I am sure you have done. With elimination it seemed mine was part tensioner part hub, which when stripped ( I fitted the Zerode hub it came with not the Pinion ) was very dry. Have used a good synthetic grease now seems fine.
Hey all,
Parts are being machined this week so first batch will be ready for shipping in ~2weeks. Here are a couple of CAD renderings of the fix.
Cheers,
Jeremy
Parts are being machined this week so first batch will be ready for shipping in ~2weeks. Here are a couple of CAD renderings of the fix.
Cheers,
Jeremy
Yesterday's ride left me grinning like an idiot.
Gearbox shifting is amazing. I shift way more now than I ever did with a derailleur setup and find being in the right gear all the time allows me to ride for longer and have gas in the tank to attack the downs. My times yesterday were killer.
26" wheels still working fine. Will probably upgrade later this year if I can afford it.
I got the chain tensioner squeak too. I'll be taking you up on the sweet upgrade you have engineered.
Gearbox shifting is amazing. I shift way more now than I ever did with a derailleur setup and find being in the right gear all the time allows me to ride for longer and have gas in the tank to attack the downs. My times yesterday were killer.
26" wheels still working fine. Will probably upgrade later this year if I can afford it.
I got the chain tensioner squeak too. I'll be taking you up on the sweet upgrade you have engineered.
Attachments
Not sure on weight, don't have anything to accurately weigh it. It feels lighter than my 2011 Rocky Mountain Slayer that it replaces. Build is half new and half from my old bike.
Frame is an XL with the C1.12 gearbox.
Thomson Trail Carbon bars 31.8 x 750mm
Renthal Apex stem 50mm
ESI Extra Chunky grips
Shimano XTR levers to XT calipers
Chris King headset
2011 Fox 36 Talas forks (26")
Wheels are fairly budget - Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs (rear standard cassette 142x12) - Stans Arch hoops (26", 32 spoke)
Specialized Butcher 2.3 front and Pergatory 2.3 rear setup tubeless
DVO Topaz rear shock 216/63.5mm
BikeYoke Revive 160mm dropper post
Thomson seat collar
SDG ti-fly saddle
Shimano XT trail pedals
Upgrades to follow when I get the cash to finish it.
DVO Diamond boost 160mm x 26.5"
Stans Arch MK3 hoops 32h
Hubs? Not sure yet
Rides so damn nice. Can't wait to give it a rip tomorrow.
Yeah light tires. Mine was 34.6 lbs in size Large. People ask me what to expect when building them up and I usually say 33LBS is ballpark. Be good to have a better number to give possible customers for down the road. Had the G2 numbers down pretty well my blur one was 38 and change and the grey MD was 41lbs with a heavier kit.
Has arrived thanks Jeremy looks well made, will fit soon. The riding on this machine just keeps getting better, it is awesome.Hi all,
I have got quotes in for parts and you're looking at $50AUD for the Hard Annodised Tensioner/ Igus J bushings + shipping (~should be pretty cheap worldwide as they are a small parts) Please send me a PM if you need more details and are interested.
The retrofit will consist of the following:
New pivot made from 6061-T6 Hard Anodised Aluminium - hard anodising increases the life significantly over regular anodising
Igus J polymer flange bushings X2 - one to fit up straight away and a spare if the first ever wears out - they are pretty cheap so and easy maintenance item.
The fix is intended to be permanent. The main wearable part is the polymer bush, however this should last for a long time. The bushes can be replaced and are low cost. I will also include 2 bushes in the retrofit.
Cheers,
Jeremy
Hi dwojo
I have a Zerode Taniwha as well and i also run the DVO Topaz rear shock and a Diamond Boost up front. The rear feels pretty smooth and i like the shock so far. But i can not set it up proper i think to use the hole travel. I am about 80kg in weight and 174cm hight in my bike gear.
What kind of settings do you run? Also i run the rebund fully open and i still have the feeling it is a bit too slow. Whats your impression?
Thanks for sharing the information.
ride on!
chraeje
Last edited:
Hi dwojo
I have a Zerode Taniwha as well and i also run the DVO Topaz rear shock and a Diamond Boost up front. The rear feels pretty smooth and i like the shock so far. But i can not set it up proper i think to use the hole travel. I am about 80kg in weight and 174cm hight in my bike gear.
What kind of settings do you run? Also i run the rebund fully open and i still have the feeling it is a bit too slow. Whats your impression?
Thanks for sharing the information.
ride on!
chraeje
Sounds like you shock isnt set up right. Does it have a negative air chamber? if so make sure that is pressurized properly.
The topaz might be a bit overdamped for the T's leverage curve, my Balance's LR is between 3.0 and 2.7 and I ran the rebound almost fully open.
Hi Chraeje,
Apologies to everyone else as this is a bit off topic but I'm about 85kgs or close to 90 geared up and just tweaked my suspension before the last ride and was super impressed with the results.
I went from 1 spacer on the positive side to 2 spacers and decreased my pressure 5PSI to 210. I have 185PSI in the bladder. The result was a plush ride with great mid stroke support and a nice ramp which gave it a playful poppy finish. Rebound is 4 clicks from slowest.
I run the shock fully open and thought it was good but last weekend it went to 11/10. So smooth over chunder with the rear wheel just hugging the ground. I was well stoked. Took drops and jumps really well and used all the travel (probably about 2mm from the o-ring sliding off the end).
Email DVO they have epic customer service and they will help you out as needed. Happy to help further where I can but I am not expert and am just experimenting from a base tune to see how my changes impact the shocks behaviour. I'd suggest riding with the shock pump and spacers and session a section of trail. Take notes of your settings and the feel. DVO tutorials are quite good too.
Cheers
Last edited:
The initial setup I had on the X2 was from the Pivot setup guide and it made the bike feel super dead. Did some big tweaking and made it feel much better - running a little higher pressure, HSR rebound is much faster than initial settings and added more volume spacers. So stoked on how it's feeling now - and times are faster...
For reference I'm 75kgs - 175PSI, (all settings from full in/most dampening) LSR:3 HSR:19 LSC:17 HSC:20 with 3.5 vol spacers (the half is a couple of o-rings
)
How are you finding the DVO suspension dwojo? Did you try with a Float X2/36?
I installed the Topaz brand new and never ran the Float X so can't provide a comparison but I have really enjoyed the tuning in the positive and negative chamber plus the bladder pressure. It's enabled me to really dial it in exactly how I want it and have a couple go-to tunes now depending on the trails.
I first ran this as a 26er with my old fox 36. It was a great fork but it was always a little harsh off the top for the compression dampening I needed. The diamond is so plush and supportive at their base tune and can be tweaked to any individual preference. It's not a side by side comparison to the current 36 but I am super happy, it's a perfect match for the Topaz.
The breakaway force of the DVO suspension is impressive. I can drop my bike from a foot and a half off the ground and it sticks like a Russian gymnast.
Hi dwojo
Your Taniwha looks sicks!
What kind of settings you run now on your topaz? I am still struggling set it up properly, to use the full travel. If I redure the psi in the main chamber to get use of full travel i am at around 40% Sag, what is wrong too.
Thx for your suggestion.
Chraeje
Hey Chraeje,
Sorry for the delayed reply. Thanks ks for your props. I've played around a bit, read a lot on the Pb dvo thread and asked some questions of the dvo team who are great.
Right now I am running 198 in the air can, 185 in the bladder with 2 positive and 1 negative spacer. 5 rebound clicks. This is my firmer pedalling platform for mixed terrain.
For a plush downhill mode I run 210 can, 185 bladder with 2 positive and 0 negative. Same rebound.
I weigh about 85kgs.
I'd suggest reaching out to the DVO team. They are so willing to help out.
Seems like the US importer has pushed out a lot of bikes for testing. By my count, Bike Mag (all hail our lizzerd overlords 
), Pinkbike, and now Vital have reviewed the Taniwha. All have said the same thing: it's not an efficient pedaler, but it's a fucking monster going downhill.
I guess I'm really surprised at how the importer has specced the test bikes: linear air shock, wiiiiiiide rims, big beefy heavy tires. all those items play to the inherent strengths of the bike, but also underline the negative aspects.
I would have thought that a progressive shock would have minimized the downsides of the progressive leverage rate of the frame, balancing the pop and the plow.
Same with wheels, I whould have thought a narrower rim and tire profile would be lighter and more precise, making the bike more nimble and taught, while relying on the frame's kinematics and low unsprung weight of the rear wheel to provide grip.
But what do I know, I'm not a distributor. Maybe that's who they figure is in the market for this bike. I just know that's how I'd spec it if I got one...
), Pinkbike, and now Vital have reviewed the Taniwha. All have said the same thing: it's not an efficient pedaler, but it's a fucking monster going downhill.I guess I'm really surprised at how the importer has specced the test bikes: linear air shock, wiiiiiiide rims, big beefy heavy tires. all those items play to the inherent strengths of the bike, but also underline the negative aspects.
I would have thought that a progressive shock would have minimized the downsides of the progressive leverage rate of the frame, balancing the pop and the plow.
Same with wheels, I whould have thought a narrower rim and tire profile would be lighter and more precise, making the bike more nimble and taught, while relying on the frame's kinematics and low unsprung weight of the rear wheel to provide grip.
But what do I know, I'm not a distributor. Maybe that's who they figure is in the market for this bike. I just know that's how I'd spec it if I got one...
Last edited:
You would have to try really hard to build one under 33LBS. Mine was high 34 and I did have 1100 gram tires. If I swapped those for 800ish I would have been high 33's roughly. The bike actually feels pretty firm under power. There isn't much you can do about shifting under load or general weight of the frame/gearbox.
Every demo bike I ride (with a few exceptions, SC factory demo, Yeti demo truck, Ibis factory demo) has at least one component in the spec that just seems silly.
Thought this could be of interest.
I had the pleasure of testing the C1.9XR as a direct comparison to the C1.12.
My first thought was that I didn't notice any weight difference between the two and upon weighing them right at the end of my test period I was pleasantly surprised to see the weight difference was only 116g which is really nothing.
The 9-spd has a 566% range compared to the 600% of the 12-spd and the thing I definitely did notice was the bigger jumps in between the gears. I found the gear spacing too wide and felt I was often in too light or too heavy a gear with the 9-spd. The 12-spd with the smaller spacing meant I could find my goldilocks gear that was just right for whatever bit of trail I was on.
Apart from that they rode the same so if you feel you want to save 116g and can handle the bigger jumps in gears the 9-spd may be for you. For me I prefer the 12-spd.
I had the pleasure of testing the C1.9XR as a direct comparison to the C1.12.
My first thought was that I didn't notice any weight difference between the two and upon weighing them right at the end of my test period I was pleasantly surprised to see the weight difference was only 116g which is really nothing.
The 9-spd has a 566% range compared to the 600% of the 12-spd and the thing I definitely did notice was the bigger jumps in between the gears. I found the gear spacing too wide and felt I was often in too light or too heavy a gear with the 9-spd. The 12-spd with the smaller spacing meant I could find my goldilocks gear that was just right for whatever bit of trail I was on.
Apart from that they rode the same so if you feel you want to save 116g and can handle the bigger jumps in gears the 9-spd may be for you. For me I prefer the 12-spd.
Guessing the 9 is a cheaper option?
Give the 9sp a 450% range, make the engagement 2-3x faster and shave off 1/2 pound and you are onto something here.
Hi guys,
Got my eye on a G2 built-up as follows:
Zerode G2 stealth decals Medium Great condition little use
Fox 40's Kashima forks
Fox DHX RC4 Kashima rear shock
Zee levers SLX calipers on Ice Tech rotors
Alfine gearbox
Renthal carbon fatbars
Saint cranks
Mavix EX 721 wheels
Continental Der Kaiser Projekt tyres (tubeless set up
Guy is asking £1000 for it, frame is in mint condition but unsure if its worth it?
Got my eye on a G2 built-up as follows:
Zerode G2 stealth decals Medium Great condition little use
Fox 40's Kashima forks
Fox DHX RC4 Kashima rear shock
Zee levers SLX calipers on Ice Tech rotors
Alfine gearbox
Renthal carbon fatbars
Saint cranks
Mavix EX 721 wheels
Continental Der Kaiser Projekt tyres (tubeless set up
Guy is asking £1000 for it, frame is in mint condition but unsure if its worth it?
Is it the 650B G2.5 or the nrmal26" G2? The 650B for sure. They ride very well. I had my G2 built out at 38.85LBS....
26 unfortunately dude but doesn't bother me too much.
Hi guys, firstly love the thread ive found it extremely helpful.
Ive bought my first Zerode G2 the other day and im in love with it already but the gearbox is running like crap and I was wondering if I could have a little bit of help with it.
Every time I put and real pressure down when I pedal I hear some serious clunking coming from the gearbox and its almost like the chain isnt running off it straight because its moving it around a lot (if that makes any sense) and i can feel the vibrations coming through my legs. Ive ridden a G1 for a day not too long ago and that thing was awesome and so quiet so i was sort of hoping the G2's would be the same.
Ive installed 2 brand new chains, new 32T chain ring, new 21T sprocket on the rear and made sure everything is lined up perfectly, all new frame bearings, brand new gear cable and ive greased up everything so im a bit stuck at the moment.
The Alfine does have a bleed screw so i was wondering if anyone has bled one and can offer any advice? As in what ATF to use and how much or is it something ill need to get it send away for a service?
Thanks guys and any help will be greatly appreciated!!!!!
Ive bought my first Zerode G2 the other day and im in love with it already but the gearbox is running like crap and I was wondering if I could have a little bit of help with it.
Every time I put and real pressure down when I pedal I hear some serious clunking coming from the gearbox and its almost like the chain isnt running off it straight because its moving it around a lot (if that makes any sense) and i can feel the vibrations coming through my legs. Ive ridden a G1 for a day not too long ago and that thing was awesome and so quiet so i was sort of hoping the G2's would be the same.
Ive installed 2 brand new chains, new 32T chain ring, new 21T sprocket on the rear and made sure everything is lined up perfectly, all new frame bearings, brand new gear cable and ive greased up everything so im a bit stuck at the moment.
The Alfine does have a bleed screw so i was wondering if anyone has bled one and can offer any advice? As in what ATF to use and how much or is it something ill need to get it send away for a service?
Thanks guys and any help will be greatly appreciated!!!!!
Pinion Tensioner Upgrade V2
What?
An improvement on the V1 design by added relative motion to the bushing. I have been testing this updated design for 12months now and it offers an excellent improvement to the original and V1 design. Less noise, low wearing and smoother tensioner action!
Why?
The original design was stainless on stainless sliding - not good. The Version 1 upgrade used an igus bush which could get gunked up and not rotate relative to the bushing causing uneven wear and eventually wearing through one spot on the bush.
How?
Using a new custom turned acetal bushing which is backwards compatible with the hard anodised aluminium shaft from V1 (provided it's not damaged).
If you previously purchased a V1 tensioner upgrade and your aluminium shaft is in good condition you can purchase the acetal part alone.
PM me for details on cost and shipping…
What?
An improvement on the V1 design by added relative motion to the bushing. I have been testing this updated design for 12months now and it offers an excellent improvement to the original and V1 design. Less noise, low wearing and smoother tensioner action!
Why?
The original design was stainless on stainless sliding - not good. The Version 1 upgrade used an igus bush which could get gunked up and not rotate relative to the bushing causing uneven wear and eventually wearing through one spot on the bush.
How?
Using a new custom turned acetal bushing which is backwards compatible with the hard anodised aluminium shaft from V1 (provided it's not damaged).
If you previously purchased a V1 tensioner upgrade and your aluminium shaft is in good condition you can purchase the acetal part alone.
PM me for details on cost and shipping…
hi Jeremy
Are you still making and supplying this upgrade ... to the UK? If so what is your price?